





-■•■;.*• . ^jvaV* -j *•;■ 






t>rXJaker>s 

Paul EicKards 




Class 



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Book S-S'- 



Copyright^ 



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CORDRIGHT DSPOStli 



Bake Shop Library 



Cakes for Bakers 



BY 



PAIL RICHARDS 

AUTHOR OF BAKERS' BREAD AND OTHER 
BOOKS OX BAKING 



SECOND EDITION 
(ILLUSTRATED) 



BAKERS' HELPER CO. 

CHICAGO 
1922 



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Copyright, 1922 
Bakers' Helper Company 



NOV -6 1^22 



©C1A686876 






CONTENTS 



Page 

I. General Suggestions 11 

II. Slab Cake, Box Cake, Loaf Cake 27 

III. C \ki > for Speci \i. < >cc vsions 40 

IV. Roll-Cakes, Layers, Etc 56 

V. M ix ellaneous Cakes 79 

VI. Making Pastes 100 

VII. French Pastry .• 124 

\ III. Cookies or Hard Cakes— How to Work Them.... 150 

IX. Machine-Made Cookies 175 

X. Small Fancy Pastry 180 

X I. Yeast Raised Doughs and I 'astry 197 

XII. Tea Biscuit, Scones, Muffins, Etc 227 

XIII. [cings and Fillings 232 

XIV. Pies and Pie-Making 256 

XV. Puddings, Jams, Jellies 268 

XVI. Ice Creams, Ices. Syrups, Etc 274 

XVII. Preparing Cakes for Sale 284 

Index 335 



PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION 

THAT "Cakes for Bakers" measured up to its special pur- 
pose, that of providing a work of everyday value to 
bakers who cater to good family trade, seems to have 
been emphatically proved in the prompt recognition of its 

usefulness by the trade. The substantial evidence is in the 
rapid sale of the large first edition, brought out only last year. 
A constantly increasing demand for good cakes on the part of 
the public encourages the feeling that the second edition 
should prove equally popular. 

The present edition has been made more complete by some 
new text as well as the addition of a number of illustrations 
which, like the recipes, have been chosen primarily for the 
practical help they offer. Both standard and original designs 
are well represented. Descriptions accompanying the illus- 
trations go into detail sufficiently to enable the baker to adapt 
any of these in his own work with comparative ease, without 
any more extra labor than is ordinarily required for the 
artistic finishing of nice cakes. We acknowledge our special 
indebtedness to Ernest Trau, D. M. Hopkins and Al. Still- 
maker, as well as all others whose fine work is illustrated 
herein, helping to make this edition more valuable. The pub- 
lishers feel that they are doing a distinct service to the trade 
in placing the work of such skillful decorators before bakers, 
with definite instructions for reproducing it. 

THE PUBLISHERS. 
September 15, 1922 



PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION, 1921 

THE popularity of Mr. Richards' other works, because 
of their eminently practical value, is sufficient guarantee 
of the practical value of "Cakes for Bakers." This book 
is designed especially to fill the needs of bakers who cater to 
good family trade. The formulas given have been adapted to 
modern practice, tested thoroughly, and may be relied upon 
for the production of quality goods, the kind that bring repeat 
business, at prices satisfactory to the customer. 

Recipes are the principal thing bakers look for in a book, 
but good descriptions, with illustrations, and suggestions for 
the best methods of finishing cakes for sale, constitute very 
useful supplementary information, and much matter of this 
character is included in "Cakes for Bakers." The illustrations, 
both of finished goods and details of decorative designs, 
studied with the text will afford any baker of ordinary 
experience all the help he needs for fancy work, as well as 
for neat and tasteful finishing touches on everyday products. 

Swedish and Danish pastry doughs are well represented, 
and any baker used to handling pastry will find no trouble in 
making them. Full directions have also been given for mak- 
ing many more of the European style torten and pastries. 
The varieties in every line offer the baker a wide choice for 
any class of trade. 

The publishers feel that a real need will be met, and much 
help in "selling more cakes" will be given, by publishing 
Paul Richards' "Cakes for Bakers." 

THE PUBLISHERS. 



I. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 



Aerating Agents 
Baking Periods 
Baking Temperatures 
Cake Machines 
Effects of Altitude 
Eggs and Their Use 
Flavorings 



Flour-Batter Method 
Mixing — Hand, Machine 
Pans for Baking 
Selection of Materials 
Shortenings 
Sugars and Syrups 
Variation in Flours 



ON KEEPING UP TO DATE 

Author's Note in Second Edition 

The possession of a work like "Cakes for Bakers" affords 
the baker practically all the assistance he needs in providing 
variety in his products, either for seasonal specialties or to 
keep in advance of the demands of a discriminating trade. 
The ability to offer goods that differ in attraction only, but 
are uniformly dependable as to quality, is one of the best 
means of stimulating and holding trade. But conditions vary 
in all shops, not entirely controllable even when the equipment 
is all that could be desired, and many good bakers lack ex- 
perience in certain directions. It is at this point, whan the 
baker finds himself in need of advice outside of that supplied 
by either his baking books or his practical knowledge, that 
the service departments of the various trade journals function 
so admirably. The baker ought to read his trade papers regu- 
larly because the information they bring him supplements 
all he learns in his daily work. They are his best guide in 
following the progress of the baking industry. The advertise- 
ments tell him where to look for reliable equipment and sup- 
plies, where he can do his marketing to the best advantage. 
If he is looking for counsel regarding any of his work, he has 
a direct source of information to which he can turn imme- 
diately. In shop or store problems of any kind, he has the 
services of experts at his command to help him out of his 
difficulties, and a ready means of communicating with other 
bakers if he wishes to do so. 

Bakers who read their trade journals do not have to be 
told of the advantages they offer. But there are so many 
bakers who do not seem to appreciate sufficiently this service 
brought to their very doors, that the author has deemed it 
of enough importance to take this means of calling the matter 
to their attention. 



I. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 



SELECTION OF MATERIALS 

In cake making- the selection and buying of the materials 
should be the first consideration. The chief ingredients are 
flour, eggs, shortening and sugar; and of these the most expen- 
sive are the butter and eggs, the prices of which vary during 
the seasons, and in the winter time rise very high. To 
obtain a uniform cost price the year through for materials 
used, the provident baker contracts for eggs early in the 
spring or summer and puts them in storage to use when prices 
begin to rise during fall and winter. Butter may be bought 
and stored in June for the same reason. This equalizes the 
cost of these high-priced ingredients and prices and quality 
of cakes may be kept up to the same standard. Another 
important point in cake making is the study of the ingredi- 
ents and how to compound them into a well-balanced formula. 
A baker must not be content with simply following the instruc- 
tions given in formulas. He must think and use good judg- 
ment in the compounding of the different materials. Correct 
weighing and measuring of all ingredients must be observed 
to obtain the best results. 

Conditions and materials vary continually and very much 
depends on the good judgment of the workman. In the prepa- 
ration of a cake formula there must be a certain balance of 
materials to obtain the best results. If this balance is upset, 
the final result will not be satisfactory. 

VARIATION IN FLOURS 

We find a marked variation in the character and baking 
qualities in the same grades of flour from year to year. In 
selecting flour for cakes we find that a good grade of soft 
winter wheat flour is best adapted for cake baking. Winter 
wheats grown in Ohio, Indiana and Missouri contain more 

11 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



gluten than those grown in Michigan. The strong, hard, 
spring wheat flours are a disadvantage in cakes, as absorption 
and moistening is accomplished with expensive materials. In 
some cake formulas a strong flour, or a blend of strong and 
soft flour, is preferred at times, because it will hold up a cake 
better than a flour with a soft gluten. There is no standard 
for cake flours, and the variations we meet in the various 
flours on account of their different characters must be judged 
with due regard to suitability. Some millers prepare a special 
milled flour for cakes. In some cake bakeries flours are mixed 
in the bakery, blended with rice flour or corn flour for certain 
grades of cake. 

In the making of pie doughs, shortbreads and cookies, a 
moderately soft flour must be used; a hard flour would spoil 
these goods. For certain grades of pastry a strong flour, but 
not of too harsh a gluten, gives best results. With some 
shortenings a stronger flour is required than with others. A 
high quality flour is considered best for pastry ; also for cream 
puff's and eclairs, etc. New flours are as troublesome in cake 
making as in bread making, because they contain too much 
moisture, but they gain strength with age. 

A flour of average strength requires about half its own 
weight in liquid to moisten it sufficient for the purpose of 
cake making; and in practice, it is found that y A of an ounce 
of baking powder of normal strength is required to aerate a 
pound of flour. 

In compounding a cake or making up a recipe, we must 
judge the strength of a flour, its absorption, action of sugar 
and shortening, and the amount of eggs by weight, in pro- 
portion to the flour. 

EGGS AND THEIR USE 

In small sponge goods the amount of eggs used varies 
greatly. For lady finger and other small cakes, where one 
pound of eggs are used to one pound of flour, a medium grade 
of cake flour is most suitable, while in others, where 1 J 2 
pounds of eggs are used, a strong flour is preferable. In 
other mixes of the water sponge cake variety, where the 
formula calls for less eggs than flour, for instance, 1 pound 

12 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



eggs, 2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds flour, we prefer a blend of 
strong and medium strong flour. We know that a pound of 
eggs will aerate and moisten only a pound of the flour, also 
that one pound of flour requires half its weight in liquid to 
moisten and -^ ounce baking powder for aeration. The 
2 pounds flour require, therefore, 1 pound Mater and 1 \ _. 
ounces baking powder to moisten and lighten the cake in 
addition to the eggs. 

Eggs are used somewhat for their food value, but prin- 
cipally to moisten and lighten the cakes and act as a binder 
to retain the air cells created during the mixing process, and 
in baking. Fresh eggs, frozen canned goods and concentrated 
eggs are all used successfully in cake making. The fresh 
eggs broken from the shell are the best. Canned frozen eggs 
are sold separated in whites and yolks, also the whole egg 
broken and frozen. The eggs are broken and separated under 
very sanitary conditions, separated and, after being canned, 
frozen and placed in cold storage until desired for use. Many 
bakers contract for these eggs when prices are low and the 
eggs are held until needed by the baker. This makes it very 
desirable, for even the small baker can have eggs at a stand- 
ard price. The frozen whites, if carefully separated, free 
from yolks, have all the qualities of the whites from fresh 
eggs and keep well in cold storage. If a baker uses frozen 
canned yolks, it is preferable to require the packer to mix the 
separated yolks with a good portion of whole eggs. This is 
necessary, because the separated yolks, in freezing, undergo a 
hardening process of a nature which is not fully understood. 
Some packers mix a large quantity of sugar with the yolks to 
prevent hardening. In using dried eggs, a baker should be 
careful to obtain the entirely soluble article. These eggs are 
made into a solution and used like the fresh egg. 

SUGARS AND SYRUPS 

Sugars and syrups and also molasses are used for the 
purpose of sweetening. They have a flowing and spreading 
action in cakes when subjected to heat. In some cakes, such 
as cookies, macaroons and wafers, they are used in large 
quantities and are the chief factors to give these goods their 

13 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



crisp and flat appearance and to make them spread and flow. 
In soft cake mixtures, if used in excess, the cakes will rise and 
fall in baking and produce a coarse texture. In every bakery 
different kinds of sugar should be kept on hand to work with. 
Fine granulated sugar, brown sugar, standard powdered sugar 
and XXXX powdered icing sugar. Standard powdered sugar 
is considered best for soft cake mixing, as coarse sugar does 
not properly dissolve in the creaming and causes a poor tex- 
ture in the cake and often spots on top of the baked cakes. 
EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE 
In the high altitudes the usual amounts of sugar used 
must be reduced considerably or the cake will rise and fall in 
baking. The altitude affects especially the richer grades of 
cake. If you use a pound of sugar in lower altitudes, each 
pound of sugar may be reduced from 2 to 6 ounces ; the higher 
the altitude, the less sugar. Shortening and baking powder 
also require reducing. The air pressure grows less as the 
altitude increases and less rising or aerating power is required 
in the formulas. In ladyfingers and sponge mixtures from 
1 to 2 ounces more flour to the pound are recommended. It is 
also noticed that water boils below 212 degrees and apparently 
less heat will require longer boiling or cooking than at lower 
altitudes. General directions given by bakers working in 
these high altitudes are to cut down sugar from 1 pound in 
lower altitude to 12 ounces in higher altitude. 

Table of Changes for Wine Cake Mixture 



Altitude 

Flour 

Eggs 

Milk 

Sugar 

Lard 

Baking Powder 



Chicago 

590 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

6V2 lbs. 

31/2 lbs. 

61/,. ozs. 



Denver 
5,280 ft. 
10 lbs. 
lqt. 
lgal. 
6 lbs. 
3 lbs. 
6 ozs. 



Idaho 
Springs 
7,500 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

6 lbs. 
2 1/ 2 lbs. 

5 ozs. 



Leadville 
10,200 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

3 lbs. 
2Vo lbs. 
334 ozs. 



Ladyfingers and sponge cake stand from 1 to 2 ounces 
more flour to the pound. For macaroons, etc., reduce sugar 
or increase flour, and watch results. 



1 1 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

CONCERNING SHORTENINGS 

Butter and fats are used for shortening, and the good 
flavor of fresh butter is considered the best flavor in good 
cakes. But even the best grades of cake are not always made 
up from all butter, and a percentage of butter with a good 
neutral fat is pronounced more satisfactory in many ways. 
A good high grade butterine is preferable to a low second 
grade butter and is more healthful. The use of good edible 
vegetable fats is rather an improvement. Butter varies 
greatly and contains other substances, usually salt and water, 
while the neutral fats are almost 100 per cent pure and 
always more uniform, and therefore better than butter from 
the standpoint of health and as far as cleanliness of produc- 
tion and uniformity is concerned, also in absence of rancidity 
and reasonable price. 

Some especially suitable grades are prepared for cakes, 
others for pastry, and pull' pastry can be more easily made 
from a good butterine, especially during warm weather, 
because it is less affected by the heat. When replacing butter 
with butterine or other fats which arc almost pure fat, only 
14 ounces of the fat should be used to replace the 16 ounces 
of butter, with a judicious addition of salt, which is an 
important factor for flavoring when using neutral fats. To 
meet high prices of butter some bakers mix a week's supply 
of butter and substitute together in the dough mixer. The 
percentage of butter used may be changed to suit the different 
classes of goods made. The blending together of both fats 
produces a better assimilation of the two. . 

AERATING AGENTS 

Baking powder plays a very important part in the aeration 
of cakes. Many bakers mix their own baking powder fresh 
eveiy day to have a uniform article. It is not a good policy 
to buy a baking powder because it is low priced. Some 
powders dry out the cakes in baking, others work too fast in 
the mixture when liquid is added and must be handled quickly. 
The old favorite standard used in many bakeries is to mix a 
baking powder with 2 parts cream of tartar, 1 part bicarbonate 
of soda and 1 part of flour or starch. This is a good baking 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



powder for all general purposes. Cream of tartar and soda 
are also used in many formulas; that is, two parts cream of 
tartar are sifted in the flour and the soda dissolved in the 
liquid or creamed in with the shortening; or both chemicals 
are sifted into the flour. 

Because of the high price of cream of tartar, a very good 
substitute, which is even better than cream of tartar, has 
been found in phosphate powders (or cream powders). These 
powders are made up to the same strength as cream of tartar 
and the gain in using this powder is not in the lower price. It 
is better from the standpoint of health, for the residue, after 
the action of the soda is completed, is not only non-injurious, 
but distinctly healthful in its composition. From the baker's 
standpoint the gain is in the slow working of the phosphate 
powder in the mixture. It is not affected by moisture until 
the oven-heat strikes it, while in other powders, containing 
tartaric acid, the mixtures must be hurried in the oven. As 
these cream powders may be used in the same proportion as 
cream of tartar no change in formula is required. The phos- 
phate powders have not the same whitening and bleaching 
effect, nor do they produce the same moisture, therefore in 
the white cakes, such as angel cakes and others, where cream 
of tartar is used alone without soda, cream of tartar is prefer- 
able and best to use for whitening. 

As aeration is produced by the addition of baking powder 
or other chemicals, these should be sifted thoroughly with the 
flour, or with that part of the flour added in the final mixing 
to assure even distribution, and it is the custom in many 
bakeries to prepare a mixed flour containing the chemicals. 
This is best suited for mixtures where only very small por- 
tions of baking powder are used. For instance, instead of 
sifting 1 ounce of baking powder into a general pound cake 
or loaf cake mix, containing 8 pounds of flour, the baker keeps 
a self-raising flour on hand which contains 1 or 2 ounces of 
the chemicals for each pound of flour. If the formula calls 
for 1 ounce of the chemicals, 7 pounds of plain cake flour and 
1 pound of the self-raising flour is used and the proportions are 
inreased, adding more of this flour as the formula calls for 
it. One may blend say 5 pounds of the baking powder with 



16 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



80 pounds of flour or as required for a week's use. This 
insures even distribution and makes work easy and small 
amounts of baking powder may be weighed out accurately. 

This same method may be followed when using ammonia 
in small cakes. This chemical is used in very small quantities 
and some bakery scales are not made to scale * [ ounces or 1/2 
ounces. By mixing the well powdered chemical with double 
weight of flour the small quantities may be scaled more accu- 
rately where only a small mixture is made. 

MIXING BY HAND OR MACHINE 

The keeping of the materials used for mixing the cakes at 
a proper temperature is of the greatest importance to obtain 
good results. It is as necessary to control a cake dough as it 
is to control a bread dough. It is also more economical, as a 
great saving is obtained by keeping the materials in the best 
condition for mixing. Fats soften and become rancid, eggs 
become weak and lose flavor, fruits also suffer in too warm 
a temperature. It is well to have the cooler or ice box handy 
to the mixing room to save steps and time. Many of the large 
bakeries have a large room or refrigerator where the materials 
are kept often provided with table for roling puff pastry, 
which requires cool handling. 

For mixing cakes by hand or machine the object aimed at 
is the proper aeration. Doing this labor by hand only com- 
paratively small mixtures can be made at one time and the 
proper creaming of more than 3 or 4 pounds of butter with 
the same quantities of sugar, etc., is about the limit for hand 
labor, no matter how strong. A man doing this work cannot 
do it to perfection if these amounts are exceeded, while a 
machine does this work with ease and the quantity is only 
limited by capacity of the machine. But even in machine work 
there is a certain amount that a machine will mix best, and too 
small a quantity or too large a quantity may produce less 
satisfactory results. 

In the process of mixing the sugar and shortening or flour 
and shortening in certain portions are creamed light, and dur- 
ing this process the sides of the bowl or mixing kettle must be 
scraped down several times. The best results are obtained by 

17 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



creaming sugar and shortening or flour and shortening fully 
before adding any eggs. A rich mixture in which sugar and 
shortening is creamed very light is apt to curdle when eggs 
are added, especially if they are warm, while if kept at a cool 
temperature — from 45 to 55 degrees — and added in small por- 
tions the mixture will cream up perfectly. If the fat or butter 
is too soft at the start in mixing the cream turns oily and 
when the eggs are beaten in the oil prevents the formation of 
air cells. All these troubles are avoided by having the ma- 
terials kept at the proper temperature. 

The methods of mixing are varied. When using dry milk 
this is creamed in with the shortening and sugar, and it may 
be said that dry milk and water produce a better texture in 
the machine made cake than liquid milk. In the average 
process of mixing used successfully by hand or machine the 
sugar and shortening or flour and shortening is creamed light, 
then the eggs, which may be slightly beaten to mix yolks and 
whites, are added in small portions to the cream, beating them 
in well after each addition and thus beat them in as fast as 
the mixture will take them up. To prevent curdling of the 
butter and sugar cream, a small portion of flour may be added 
after adding the second and third portion of the eggs. This 
will keep the cream in good condition. If milk is used this 
may be added in two or three portions. After eggs are all 
added, add a portion of flour, mix smooth, add a portion of the 
milk, then the remaining part of flour, then the balance of the 
milk. This is the better way than to add all the milk before 
adding the flour. 

In some of the commercial cakes, which are made with 
compounds and are best beaten up in a machine, a part of 
the sugar, the shortening, the milk powder and a part of the 
flour are creamed light. The eggs are beaten light with the 
other part of the sugar, the egg batter is mixed with the first 
part, then the liquids are added with flavor and the balance 
of the flour and mixed smooth. 

Flour-Batter Method 

Another method is known as the flour-batter method. In 
the rich grades of cake known as pound cake, which contain 

IN 



C\Ki:s ink IJAKKKS 



do milk, all of the sugar and eggs are beaten together, flour 
and shortening are creamed in even quantities, the egg batter 
is mixed with the flour batter, and the balance of the flour 
is added last. There is usually very little flour in these mix- 
tures, and if there is any baking powder to be added this is 
done with the last part of the flour. Fruit is added to these 
mixtures when the last part of flour is about half mixed in 
and the mixing finished. The process is best adapted for 
machine, and both parts may be done at the same time, but 
the process can be done by hand. This method gives better 
aeration, produces a smoother grain, and less baking powder 
is required in this process. A mixture containing milk and 
baking powder, a medium grade of pound cake or loaf cake, 
may be worked as follows, for example: 3 pounds butter, 
3 pounds compound, 1 ' -j ounces salt, 9 pounds standard powd. 
sugar, 2 '-j quarts eggs, 2V§ quarts milk, 6 pounds hard flour, 
6 pounds soft flour, l 1 ■> ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. 

Cream shortening with 6 pounds strong flour, beat up eggs 
and 5 pounds sugar, sift baking powder thoroughly into the 
soft flour. Dissolve the balance of the sugar in the milk. Do 
not beat eggs and sugar too light, only about half as light as 
for sponge cake. In mixing, the egg batter should be rather 
shaken than mixed in the flour batter to preserve the aeration, 
then the milk, salt and sugar solution containing the flavor 
are added carefully, and finally the flour. The process seems 
rather complicated, but is not so much so in practice. 

In mixing all the cakes the operations are very much sim- 
plified if the materials used for mixing are kept at a certain 
standard ; changes in shortening, sugar, flours and baking 
powders often require a change in the formula. Many bakers 
are apt not to consider these changes as of importance, which, 
however, are often the cause of imperfect cakes. Each mix- 
ture should produce always a certain number of goods and 
large cakes should be weighed into the pans. The proper sizes 
of pans should be used for cakes sold by the pound or by the 
cut. Plenty of tools make work easy and there are many small 
but labor-saving machines such as food choppers, etc., which 
save much time. 

19 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Cake Machines 

The cake machine is a very important factor in the pro- 
duction of cake; it saves labor, does better work and makes 
better goods. A small baker may use the cake machine for 
mixing bread and roll doughs up to four gallons, and the 
modern machines have usually two sizes of kettles which 
makes these machines useful even for very small mixes. The 
machines have several speeds — slow, medium and fast speed, 
easily regulated. Beaters of several sizes are supplied for 
mixing bread doughs, creaming up shortening and sugar, beat- 
ing eggs and egg whites. 

For the making of marshmallow filling and icings the 
cake machine is almost indispensable. Some cake mixtures 
may be fully finished in the machine, for others the hardest 
part of the work, creaming or beating the eggs, may be done 
in the machine and the final mixing done in the mixing bowl 
by hand. In the richer grades of cake where the essential 
flavor consists of good butter, no other flavorings are required. 
When using neutral fats or compounds a delicate flavor of 
essential oils or high-grade spices is desirable. All flavors 
should be used carefully, as some of the best cakes are spoiled 
by the indiscriminate use of poor flavoring or by a low price 
baking powder. The best flavoring extracts and spices are 
more economical than the low priced article if the flavor of 
the cakes depends on it. 

Baking Temperatures 

In cake baking the knowledge of baking temperatures is 
one of the main features. Exact degrees are difficult to give, 
as the nature and size of cake regulates the time and baking 
temperature. The different makes of ovens behave differently, 
and the meters do not rgeister the baking heat alike, but most 
all ovens can be fairly well regulated by means of opening 
doors and dampers and studying the results. Thus by close 
observation a baker can fix his own scale for the oven he is 
using. Close observation of the firing to obtain and hold the 
proper heat, also the differences of a rising heat or declining 
heat must be watched. It makes quite a difference in baking 
cakes if the oven heat is going up or down. When the tem- 

20 



CAKES FOR P.AKKKS 



perature is rising the heat is brisk and the oven has generally 
more top heat than bottom heat. When the oven heat is going 
down, the heat declines gradually, often the bottom heat is 
stronger than the top heat. Some ovens retain a steady 
baking heat better than others. These variations must be 
studied in baking. The average heats for cake baking are 
given about as follows : A temperature of 500 to 550 degrees 
is termed a flash heat or a quick heat. This temperature 
occurs usually when the oven is freshly heated, and at this 
point the oven has always plenty of top heat. This degree 
of heat is only used for a few small goods to give color. After 
the oven stands for some time the heat evens up, bottom and 
top heat Becomes more evenly distributed, the meter will 
register from 420 to 450 degrees. This temperature is used for 
small puff pastry which requires a brisk heat. 420 to 450 
degrees is also a good heat for lady lingers and some kinds of 
jelly rolls which must be baked quickly to stay soft so they 
can be rolled. This degree is often termed a "hot oven" 
or "good heat." Larger puff paste goods such as patties, etc., 
are best baked in an even heat of from 350 to 420 degrees. 
A sharper heat prevents these goods from rising properly. 

A temperature of from 300 to 350 degrees is termed 
''moderate heat" or "cake heat." 350 degrees is used for 
fairly rich layer cakes, 330 to 340 for cakes baked in frames 
or in slabs, from U/j to 2 inches in thickness. Light cakes 
which contain a large quantity of milk and baking powder, 
very soft mixtures, also mixtures containing starch and flour 
require a stronger heat, quicker baking. A heat of from 300 
to 350 degrees is termed a "moderate oven." This tempera- 
ture is also called "steady oven" and rich heavy pound cakes, 
also large slabs, are baked successfully in this heat. The cakes 
must be well protected, baked in frames with asbestos bottom. 

In some ovens the heat may be maintained steadily, and 
sometimes increases, while in other ovens not heated con- 
tinuously the heat declines and drops. In the baking of large 
cakes it also depends on the size of batch. If a full oven is 
baked, the cakes protect each other, so to speak, and the steam 
rising during baking tempers the heat and the cakes bake more 
evenly, and a whole batch of cakes may be baked in a higher 

21 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



temperature than only a few cakes. If it is possible it is best 
to bake a large batch of cakes, following the rule that certain 
kinds of cake of the same weight and size will bake more 
evenly and perfectly than a few in a given time, or at least 
make arrangements to bake large cakes to be used for Friday 
and Saturday trade, leaving some also for the Monday trade. 
This permits the cakes to be baked in full oven batches which 
bakes them better. 

Where this plan cannot be followed, to compensate for the 
lack of steam, the small batch of loaf cake may be protected 
by making an enclosed space in the oven, forming a frame of 
long bread tins filled withwater, or build a frame of wood 
blocks previously soaked in water. This will be a great help 
in having the cakes bake up evenly. A small batch of cakes 
baked without protection seems to concentrate the heat upon 
the cakes and they bake up with a dry crust. The same cake 
baked in different temperatures will not be the same in appear- 
ance. Cakes containing fruit require a low but steady heat. 
Fruit cakes may be baked in a heat from 250 to 280 
degrees, and most of the fruit cakes suffer from too much heat. 
If possible they should be baked with the door and damper 
closed so that the moisture is retained. A low but steady 
heat prevents the top and bottom from having the bitter, 
burned fruit and sugar taste often found in these cakes. 

The baking time is regulated by the weight and thickness 
of the cakes, also by the amount of fruit. It is well to have a 
pan of water near the fireplace in the oven and where the fire 
is too high or too strong drop it. This prevents hard crusts 
in baking. The size and thickness regulates the time of 
baking, but as the class of cakes varies and different heats are 
required for baking, the time can only be given approximately. 

Baking Periods 

Sponge cake, 8-10 ounces each, 30 minutes. 
Angel cake, 8-15 ounces each, 20 to 35 minutes. 
Sponge cake, blocks l'/j. inch thick, 2% pounds, 20 minutes. 
Angel cake blocks, iyj. inch thickness, 2%. pounds, 22-25 
minutes. 

22 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Plain pound cake, ' o pound each, 25-30 minutes. 
Plain pound cake, 1 pound each, 35 to 40 minutes. 
Pound cake with fruit, 1 ' g pounds. 45 minutes. 
Pound cake with rich fruit, - pounds, 60 to 65 minutes. 
Pound fruit cake. 5 to 6 pounds, 2% hours. 
Heavy fruit cake. 7 to 8 pounds. 3Vfc hours. 

The given time depends on the richness of the cake and 
also very much on the thickness and amount of fruit, so that 
variations must be judged accordingly. Cakes must not be 
disturbed too early during baking, which causes them to sink 
in the center. Alter baking the cakes are best left until quite 
cold, and fruit cakes are improved if allowed to age for some 
time in a moderately cool temperature. 

In the small bakeries where there is a large mixed trade 
often several cakes are made from one mixture, such as small 
loaf cake, wine cake, layers and cup cake. These cakes are 
often baked in temperatures ranging from 350 to 450 degrees 
right in succession with good results, while otherwise they 
would require separate heat. The larger goods are put in the 
oven in a corner where the heat is steady, with damper open; 
next are baked layer cakes, and by the time the cup cakes are 
dropped out ready for the oven the first cakes are partly 
baked, the cup cakes, which require more top heat, are put in 
the oven, and the damper is closed. 

Pans for Cake Baking 

In baking large cakes practical bakers use standard sizes 
of tins, which may be bought from bakers' supply firms or 
made to order if so desired. The tins largely used for baking 
pound cakes and box cake are made of convenient size. The 
pans are lined with j •> inch white wood, and the bottom is 
covered with asbestos. Pound cake tins are used with a 
perforated cover which prevents the cakes from forming too 
much crust and keeps them moist in baking. 

The tins are made of heavy white tin with straight sides, 
lined with % inch to % inch white wood ; the bottom is cov- 
ered with heavy asbestos. These tins are lined with paper 
which remains on the baked cake. To prevent the asbestos 

23 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



soaking up the grease and becoming unfit for use, a piece of 
cardboard placed on top of the asbestos takes up the grease. 
This may be changed if it becomes too much grease-soaked, 
saving the asbestos. The sizes of tins are given: 

A pan 15x71/4 inches, 4 inches deep, holds 4 pounds plain 
cake or 5 pounds fruit cake. 

A pan 20x5 inches, 4 inches deep, holds 6 pounds plain 
cake, 8 pounds fruit cake. 

A pan 18x714 inches, 3 inches deep, holds 314 to 3Vfc 
pounds plain white or yellow cake — box cake. 

A pan 11x6 inches, 2 inches deep, hold 314 pounds fruit 
cake. 

A pan 18x11 inches, IV2 inches deep, holds 214 to %y± 
pounds wine cake or dark cakes. 

A pan 19x111/4 inches, 11/2 inches deep, holds 2% pounds 
sponge cake or angel food cake baked in dry pans without 
lining. 

For special cakes, such as Christmas cakes, wedding cake, 
the sizes of pans are made to hold weights of from 3 to 10 
pounds baked in suitable tins or hoops with the proper protec- 
tion of several thicknesses of paper on sides and bottom to 
prevent burning or browning. The usual tins which are used 
in the baking of sheet cakes can be used by setting a wood 
frame in the pans to obtain straight sides, but it is preferable 
to have some pans of this size made to order of strong material 
and straight sides if the sheets are put together in two or 
three layers with jelly or marshmallow. This saves trimming 
and is more economical when preparing the cakes for sale. 



FLAVORINGS 

Butter Flavor Oil and Cake Flavors 

Butter flavors are used in many of the commercial cakes 
with success. The flavor oil as well as the concentrated 
extracts or oils may be bought from dealers in essential oils, 
and many bakers compound their own flavors. 

24 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



To use the concentrated butter flavor, which is at present 
market price $2.80 per pint, from 3 to 5 ounces are mixed into 
100 pounds of neutral fat or compound with from 3 to 4 pounds 
of fine salt. Sufficient of the flavored compound is prepared 
for several days' baking - . Another method used in diluting- the 
essential oils with deodorized cottonseed oil in smaller or large 
quantities, and salt is used in the mixing of the cakes. 

Butter Flavor Oil 

12 pounds deodorized cottonseed oil, U/j. pounds oil of 
orange, % pound lemon oil, 1/2 pound walnut oil, 1/2 pound 
butterscotch flavor. 

For a smaller formula use ounces instead of pounds. Use 
!/:> ounce of this oil for 8 to 10 pounds neutral fats. 

Mansfield's Butter Flavor Oil 

1 barrel white cottonseed oil (about 31 gallons), 4 pounds 
lemon oil, 4 pounds orange oil, 2 pounds rose oil, 2 pounds 
walnut oil, 2 pounds butterscotch flavor. Use 1 ounce oil for 
each pound of neutral fat. 

English Butter Flavor Oil 

200 pounds white oil, add 3 pounds orange oil, V/-> pounds 
lemon oil, 2 pounds walnut oil, V/.> pounds butterscotch flavor. 
Use from 1/2 to 1 ounce for each pound of neutral fat or com- 
pound. 

Lemon or Orange Flavor Oil 

6 pounds white oil, 1 pound of best grade of lemon or 
orange oil. Mix and use sufficient for flavor. 

Almond Flavor Oil 

8 pounds white oil, 14 pound sweet almond oil, 4 ounces 
bitter almond oil. This flavor is used for white cakes, also for 
flavoring mocha almond cream. A combination of % part 
orange oil, 1/2 part lemon oil, 14 part almond oil, may be used 
as a butter flavor or cake flavor. 

25 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Spice Mixture for Dark Fruit Cake 

To obtain a uniformly spiced cake and to save time in the 
weighing out of small quantities of spices, mixtures of various 
spices may be kept on hand in well-covered cans. The addi- 
tion of a small part of sugar to mixed spices retains the essen- 
tial oil to a better degree. Use fresh ground spices of best 
grade. Take 2 pounds cinnamon, 1 pound allspice, 1 pound 
mace, V2 pound nutmeg, 1/2 pound cloves, 1/2 pound ginger, 
IVa pounds powdered sugar. Rub well together and keep in 
tightly closed jars. For light colored pound or fruit cake a 
combination of 1 part mace, V-! part nutmeg, also the grated 
rind of lemons or oranges, is most desirable. 



26 



II. SLAB CAKE, BOX CAKE, 
LOAF CAKE 



WHITE BOX CAKE 

11 pounds standard powdered sugar, 7 pounds compound 
01* 5 pounds compound, 2 1 j, pounds butter, 1\\. pounds milk 
powder, 5% pounds egg- whites, 1 j jj ounces cream of tartar, 

1 pound cornstarch, 12 > -j pounds bread flour, flavor of almond 
or vanilla or both, 2 ounces salt, 5V-> pounds egg white, 2*4 
quarts cold water. 

Cream 9 pounds sugar, shortening, dry milk and starch 
light. Beat egg whites stiff and add 2 pounds sugar. Add 
second part to first part with flavor desired, mix and add the 
water with salt dissolved, mix again, then add the flour with 
cream of tartar well sifted together and mix smooth, beating 
it well in the final mixing. Hake like pound cake. 

Silver Cake 

No. 1 — 8 pounds powdered sugar, A l /> pounds compound, 

2 ounces salt, IV2 pounds cornstarch, 1/2 pound milk powder, 
creamed together; 3 quarts egg whites beaten light, added 
in portions gently to first part: Add flavor and 2 quarts 
milk ; then 10 pounds cake flour sifted with 1 pound powdered 
sugar and 11/2 ounces baking powder sifted together. 

No. 2 — Cream together 7 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 
milk powder, 6 ounces cornstarch, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds 
compound, 4 ounces bread flour, 1/2 ounce salt, flavor of orange 
or vanilla. Beat light 2 quarts egg white, 1/2 ounce cream of 
tartar, add 1 pound powdered sugar. Mix with first part and 
add 3 pints cold water. Then add 1 pound cornstarch or rice 
flour, 8 pounds bread flour; beat mixture well in the final 
mixing. 

White Box Cake— Silver Slice 

Cream together 5 pounds powdered sugar, 41/2 pounds com- 
pound, 3 ounces salt, % pound dry milk, 10 ounces cornstarch, 

27 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



1 pound bread flour, 4 ounces butter flavor oil. Beat light 31/2 
quarts egg- whites and add 3V-> pounds sugar, V/% ounces cream 
of tartar. Bring both together, then add % ounce soda dis- 
solved in 2% quarts water; add flavor and 6 pounds cake 
flour, 3 pounds bread flour. Beat light in the final mixing. 
Bake in 330 degrees. 

White Cake, Almond Cake, Marble Cake 

6 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds com- 
pound, 2 quarts egg whites, 2 quarts milk, 10 pounds cake 
flour, 6 ounces baking powder. Flavor of vanilla or almond. 

For almond cake add 1/2 pound of almond paste rubbed 
smooth with part of egg white or milk. 




For marble cake color a part with melted chocolate or 
cocoa, mixing it smooth with a little milk. Spread white 
mixture in bottom of pan, cover with chocolate mixture and 
cover again with white. 

Nut meats of various kinds, added to white mixture, makes 
another variety of block cake or small loaf cake. 

Use flour cream or sugar cream method, or mix as follows : 
Cream sugar and butter light, add half of egg whites and rub 
light, add a couple of handfuls flour, rub smooth; then add 
other half of egg whites beaten stiff, mix again, add flavor 
and milk, then rest of flour with baking powder sifted in. Mix 
smooth without overmixing. 

Small Loaf Cakes, Slabs, Layer Cake, Cup Cakes 

6 pounds sugar, 2*4 pounds butter and compound, 3^6 pints 
egg whites, 5 pints milk, 8 pounds strong cake flour, 3 ounces 
cream of tartar, V/% ounces soda. 

28 



CAKKS FOR P.AKKKS 



Sift flour, soda and cream of tartar tog-ether with 1 pound 
of sugar. Cream 5 pounds sugar with shortening, gradually 




beat in half of the egg whites, add about 1 pound of the flour 
and mix smooth, add other half of egg whites beaten stiff, mix 
again, then add milk, flavor and the remaining flavor sifted 
well with soda and cream of tartar, mix and beat smooth. 
Mixture may be made into a large variety of cakes, also in 
marble cake, as above, by adding chocolate. 

White Loaf Cake with Cornstarch 

3 pounds butter and compound, 6 pounds powdered sugar, 
1 quart egg whites, 3 pints milk, 3 pounds cornstarch, 3 pounds 
cake flour, 3 ounces baking powder, vanilla or almond flavor. 
Mix like white cake above. Beat well in final mixing, bake in 
good heat — 350 degrees. 

White Mountain Cake 

Use previous mixture, leaving out cornstarch, using 6 
pounds cake flour. Bake in layers, put together 3 or 4 layers 
with icing or marshmallow between, ice top and sides, and 
sprinkle thickly with shredded cocoanut. 

Delicate Cake 

3V2 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 3 pints of egg 
whites, IV2 pints milk, 3 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces corn- 
starch, 2 ounces baking powder, flavor of vanilla or almond. 

29 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sift and mix flour, starch and baking powder. Cream but- 
ter and sugar light, beat half of egg whites in by degrees, then 
add about 1 pound of flour mixture ; mix smooth, add other 
half of egg whites beaten stiff ; then add milk and flavor, then 
balance of flour and mix well. Bake in moderate oven, or 
about 300 degrees. 

Mixture is rather soft, but will bake nicely in moderate 
oven. May be made in small oval or round sizes, scaled in 8, 
12 and 20-ounce sizes. Bake in papered tins. Nut meats or 




freshly grated cocoanut may be added, or a few chopped nuts 
sprinkled on top, which is iced with vanilla, maple or caramel. 

White Layer Cakes 

6 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 2 pounds compound. 1 ' g 
quarts egg whites, 2 quarts milk. 4 ounces cream tartar. 2 
ounces soda, 8^ pounds cake flour, flavor of vanilla or mace. 

Cream sugar and shortening light, add egg whites in small 
portions, a couple of handfuls of flour with last portions of 
eggs; add flavor, lastly flour sifted with soda and cream of 
tartar. 

In the mixing of large batches a phosphate cream powder 
in place of the cream of tartar is preferred because it does not 
work out before the layers are put in the oven. Bake in 375 
to 380 degrees F. 

30 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



[.—White Standard Fruit and Nut Cake 
12 pounds powdered sugar, 5 pounds compound, 1 pounds 

white butter, 2 pounds cornstarch. I quarts egg- whites, 1 pint 
milk, 11 pounds of cake Hour, 2 ounces baking powder (or j g 
ounce soda, 1 ounce cream of tartar), flavor of almond or 
vanilla. 

Cream LO pounds sugar with starch and shortening light. 
Add 2 quarts eggs gradually, beating in in small portions. 
Beat up the other 2 quarts eggs and beat in 2 pounds sugar. 
To this add the milk after 2 quarts egg whites are beaten in; 
the soda should be dissolved in milk. Then add egg whites 
containing the sugar, mix lightly, and add Hour sifted with 
baking powder. 

For mixed fruit cake add 2*4 pounds mixed fruit. F'or 
cherry, pineapple, sultana or nut cakes add a pound of fruit or 
nut meats for 1 pounds of mixture. Flavor with orange or 
lemon for fruit cake, vanilla or almond for nut cake. 

II.— White Fruit Slab Cake: Nut Slab: Cherry Cake 
Cream <) pounds sugar. :! | pound dry milk. 1 pound butter, 
2 pounds compound, j g pound Hour, ( -j pound cornstarch. Beat 




214. quarts of egg whites light, add in three portions to first 
mixture, mix and add 31/4 pints water, then add 1 ounce cream 
of tartar, 1/2 ounce soda and V2 pound of sugar sifted well into 
6V2 pounds cake flour. Mix smooth. Add 1 pound finely cut 
mixed French fruit, or fine cut cherries or apricots or pine- 
apple, filberts, walnuts or almonds. Bake in blocks or slabs, 
put together or single, frost, and sprinkle a little of the fruit 
on top or mix with the icing. Cut in squares or slices. 



31 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Chocolate Block Cake 

Use the previous formula and add 1 pound melted choco- 
late, \y± ounces cinnamon, 1/2 ounce cloves and leave out V& 
pound of the flour; use 31/2 pints water. Bake in layer sheets 
or blocks, put together with marshmallow, frost chocolate and 
cut in squares or slices. 

A variety of layers or Neapolitan cakes may be made from 
white mixtures by dividing mixture and coloring one part pink, 
one part chocolate, and leaving one part white. Bake in layers 
or slabs and put three colors together, fill with jam or jelly, 
and finish with different flavored and colored icings. Browned 
cocoanut and chopped nut meats may be sprinkled on icing 
and the cakes cut in pieces to sell for 20 to 30 cents or made 
up in larger layers. 

YELLOW BOX CAKES 

Different methods of mixing these cakes are applied in 
many bakeries. The use of dry powdered milk, creamed in 
with shortening and sugar, is preferred by many bakers as an 
aid to better texture. In using pure vegetable fats which are 
richer than butter, it should be kept in mind that for every 
pound of butter left out only from 13 to 14 ounces of the fat 
should be used, with additional salt to add flavor. These fats 
also cream up more quickly than butter and the time of cream- 
ing must be shortened. 

In baking box cake containing baking powder, the usual 
pound cake tins may be used, but without covers, and these 
cakes require a higher temperature in baking, a temperature 
ranging from 350 to 400 or 425 degrees, depending on the 
richness of the cake. Standard powdered sugar produces the 
best texture, but part of fine granulated sugar, also small 
quantities of corn syrup, may be used in the yellow mixtures. 
Blends of cake flour and bread flour, with a small percentage 
of cornstarch or rice flour to give a short grain and texture, 
improve the baking qualities of these cakes. 

Standard Box Cake Mixtures 

No. 1 — 10 pounds powd. sugar, 1 pound corn syrup, 2 
pounds butter, 3 pounds neutral fat, 1 pound dry milk powder, 

32 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



1 quarts eggs, l'.j pints cold water, 6 pounds cake Hour, 5 
pounds bread flour, flavor of vanilla, lemon or orange. 

Reserve 1 pound sugar, sift with 3 ounces baking powder, 
6 pounds cake flour, 4 pounds bread flour. Cream 9 pounds 
sugar, syrup, fats, dry milk. 1 pound of bread flour, light, then 
add gradually the 1 quarts eggs, then the cold water and 
flavoring, lastly the mixed flour containing the baking powder. 
Mix well and bake as directed. 

No, 2 — 8 pounds sugar, •';'- pounds neutral fat, 4 ounces 
butter flavor oil, 2 ounces salt, 10 ounces dry milk, 3 quarts 
eggs, 3U pints water. ."> pounds cake flour, 2 pounds bread 
flour, 1 pound cornstarch, 2 1 t ounces baking powder, flavor of 
vanilla, mace, lemon or orange. 

No. 3 — 7 pounds sugar, 1 ' ^ pounds corn syrup, M'-j pounds 
neutral fat, 2 ounces salt, 4 ounces butter oil, 10 ounces dry 
milk, 3 quarts eggs, 3%, pints cold water, 6 pounds cake flour, 
2 pounds bread flour, 1 pound cornstarch, 2 ounces cream of 
tartar, 1 ounce soda. 

Mix Nos. 2 and 3 same as No. 1. Flavor as desired. 

Gold Cake, Spanish Box Cake 

No. 1 — 8 pounds sugar, 1 pound corn syrup, 3 pounds com- 
pound, 1 ounce salt, l'| pounds butter, j •> pound dry milk, 
l l /o quarts whole eggs, 1 quail yolks, 2 quarts water, % ounce 
soda dissolved in the water, 3Vfc pounds bread flour, 3 l /2 
pounds cake flour, 2 pounds cornstarch sifted with lj/2 ounces 
cream of tartar, flavor of orange and lemon. 

Method of mixing: Cream fats with 4 pounds sugar, corn 
syrup, dry milk, salt and cornstarch light. Beat eggs with 
the other 4 pounds sugar. When fairly light bring both parts 
together, add flavor, mix and add water, lastly add the mixed 
flour and beat light in the final mixing. Bake in about 300 
degrees. 

Golden Cake, Spanish Cake 

No. 2 — Cream well together 7V2 pounds powdered sugar, 
4 pounds compound lard, 3 ounces salt, IV2 pounds bread flour, 
V2 pound cornstarch. When light add gradually 21/2 quarts 
mixed eggs (half yolks, half whole eggs), then add 2 quarts 
milk, flavor of orange ; add 8 pounds cake flour, 1/2 pound sugar 

33 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and 2'/2 ounces baking- powder sifted together, mix well, and 
bake in the regular box cake tins. 

Standard Fruit Slabs, Richer Grades 

No. 1 — 5 pounds powd. sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2'/> pounds 
compound, 1 ounce salt, 5i/i pounds eggs, 1 quart milk, 8 
pounds cake flour sifted with 1/2 ounce baking powder. Fla- 
voring, 6 to 7 pounds mixed fruit. Any variety of fruit may 
be used in the given mixture. Combinations of cherries and 
peel, sultanas and currants arid peels. Milk must be used with 
discretion, depending on strength of the flour. 

Use the following method of mixing: F'lour batter process 
— Cream 4*4 pounds flour with 414 pounds shortening and 
salt ; beat eggs and sugar together, and when fairly light mix 
both together, then add milk, then balance of flour containing 
baking powder, partly mix, and add fruit, finish without over- 
mixing. 

No. 2 — 6 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, 4 ounces but- 
ter oil, 2 ounces salt, 3 pints eggs, 3V-> quarts milk, 10 pounds 
cake flour, 2 pounds bread flour, 3 pounds rice or com flour, 
4 ounces baking powder, 6 to 9 pounds mixed fruits, flavor of 
mace and lemon. 

For a dark cake brown sugar may be used and V/2 ounces 
spices added with good results. Use same process of mixing 
as in No. 1. 

Plain Nut Block— Black Walnut, English Walnut 

No. 1 — Cream together 3*4 pounds cake flour, 3V& pounds 
butter and compound. Beat together 4 14 pints eggs, 414 
pounds sugar. Sift together ll/j, pounds rice flour, 4 pounds 
cake flour, IV2 ounces baking powder. Bring flour cream and 
egg cream together, add flavor, then 21/2 pints milk, then flour 
with baking powder. When partly mixed add from 1 to 1'4 
pounds ground walnuts, or freshly grated cocoanut. black wal- 
nuts, filberts or almonds. Flavor with almond, vanilla or 
lemon. 

The mixture may be made in blocks and also in small cakes 
to weigh about 1 or U4 pounds. When the baked cakes are 

34 



TAKES FOR BAKERS 



frosted add some of the same nut meats contained in the cake 
to the frosting. 

No. 2 — 8 pounds sugar. 4 pounds compound, V/% ounces 
salt, 2 quarts eggs, 2^ quarts milk, 11 pounds cake flour, 8 
ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor, 10 to 16 ounces ground 
nut meats. Mix as usual. Frost with vanilla and a few nuts 
sprinkled on top of iced cake. Bake in 350 degrees Fahr. 

Mixture makes 10 cakes, baked in wood-lined pans, size 
L0V&x20xl^4 inches, paper lined. Two cakes, scaled 214, 
pounds each, when baked are put together with marshmallow, 
and cut in 10 slices 5%x3% inches. 

LARGE CAKES— COMMERCIAL CAKE 

For high grade cake the old time poundcake, which is 
noted for richness, keeping qualities and flavor, due to good 
butter, is still a great favorite witli patrons who are willing 
to pay the top price, and quite a number of bakers are making 
and selling poundcake of excellent quality. 

The simple poundcake is the base of all of the richer grades 
of wedding cakes and other heavy and light fruit cakes, adding 
the various fruits, peel, spices, etc., in different proportions. 
In the making of fruited cake, the fruit should be cleaned 
and carefully examined for any objectionable substance, such 
as stems, grit or small stones. For the heavy fruited cakes 
the peel is best cut in small cubes, not in strips, except for 
special citron cakes, where it gives a better appearance if 
sliced. Almonds should be cut according to size of other fruits, 
and if any ground almonds are used these may be added with 
the eggs. The mixed fruit cake batter should be scalded and 
filled in the center of the prepared frame or hoop in one mass 
and gently pressed to sides and corners to smooth it evenly 
so that no air-space is left within the batter which may cause 
blisters or hollows in baking. 

A line of cakes are placed on the market which have the 
appearance of high-grade cakes and are fine eating, often 
looking even better than high-grade cakes; and bakers who 
have to compete with this line of cakes are wondering how 
they can be made and sold at such surprisingly low prices. 
Some of these cakes are made of the best materials. The 

35 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



wholesale cake baker buys his materials in large quantities at 
a lower price than the small cake baker. The large purchases 
and wholesale manufacture, with modem machinery and 
methods, enable him to place the cake on the market at a low 
price. In some of these cakes milk is used to replace eggs, 
and good neutral fats take the place of butter, the butter flavor 
being reproduced by essential oils. Dry milk is creamed with 
shortening and sugar, and water added in the place of liquid 
milk, and much of the fine texture is due to dry milk and the 
mechanical action of the cake machines, permeating the cake 
mixture with air cells. The cake machine is indispensable for 
these cakes, doing better work than by hand. Small quantities 
of cake mixtures may be worked by hand, but any amount 
above 4-pound mixtures is best worked by machine. 

In the making of cakes we suggest that bakers use discre- 
tion in the use of neutral fats, to give the best possible value, 
and get a reasonable profit. There is a class of trade which 
requires low priced goods; but quality goods have always 
proved to be a good trade builder. 

POUNDCAKE 

The old-time poundcake formulas have changed into many 
other combinations, and many of the plain cakes which con- 
tain no fruit are termed poundcake, but contain milk and less 
eggs, or butter and fats, also baking powder and more flour. 
The butter used for poundcakes should be of good body, as 
much as possible free from salt and water. Salty butter must 
be washed well to remove the salt. Should neutral fats be 
used in the place of butter it must be remembered that these 
fats are richer than butter and 14 ounces of fat take the place 
of 16 ounces of butter. The flour should be a good strong soft 
flour, or a good first patent bread flour, or a blend of both. 

Old Time Poundcake 

No. 1 — 1 pound sugar (standard powdered), 1 pound but- 
ter, 1 pint or pound of eggs, 1 pound of flour. 

Poundcake with Milk 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound neutral 
fat, 2 pounds eggs, \'± pint milk, 3V-> pounds flour. 

36 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Poundcake with Milk and Baking Powder 

No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 ' o pounds butter, 1 pound com- 
pound, 3 pounds eggs, Vfe pints milk, 6 pounds flour, V/* 
ounces baking powder. The flavor of good butter is improved 
by a small addition of grated rind of lemon or orange, also by 
the flavor of good ground mace or vanilla extract. 

No. 4 — 2 pounds 2 ounces standard powdered sugar, 1 
pound butter, 1 pound compound, 2 pounds (20) eggs, 2y± 
pounds flour, flavor of mace and lemon or vanilla. 

These mixtures may be made by both methods outlined 
in the chapter on mixing, using the size of tins suggested for 
large cake. The cakes may also be baked in individual sizes 
to sell by the piece, sizes from 1 to 2 ] /-> pounds being made in 
round, oval, and oblong or square shapes, with or without 
center tube. The small as well as the large cakes may be 
used with various fruits, almonds or other nut meats. It is 
suggested to frost the individual cake with an icing containing 
the flavor, also some nuts or fruit cut fine, to give the cakes 
a distinctive appearance. 

Special Poundcakes 

No. 5 — 11 pounds powdered sugar, 6 pounds compound lard, 
2 ounces salt, 12 ounces dry powdered milk, 3'/2 quarts eggs, 
31/2 pints cold water, 7 pounds bread flour, 41/2 pounds cake 
flour, butter flavor. 

Method of mixing: Sift 11 pounds flour with 1 pound 
sugar. Cream 10 pounds sugar, compound, salt, flavor and 
dry milk with V-i pound strong flour light, add the eggs by 
degrees, then add water, and lastly the flour and sugar. Give 
this a good beating in the final mixing, then scale in the tins, 
and bake in covered poundcake pans. (See sizes given in 
opening chapter.) 

No. 6 — 5 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 3 pounds 
compound, 114 ounces salt, 12 ounces dry milk, 3 pounds (30) 
eggs, 1 quart water, 2 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cake flour. 

Method of mixing : Cream not too lightly 3 pounds sugar, 
dry milk, butter compound, salt and 1 pound bread flour. Beat 
together the egg and 2 pounds sugar, beat eggs only fairly 

37 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



light, about half as much as for sponge cake. Bring both parts 
together by shaking the eggs lightly into first part, add flavor 
of lemon or mace with the water, mix again, then add the 
balance of flour and mix smooth. 

No. 7 — 10 pounds powdered sugar, 6 pounds compound, 4 
pounds butter, li/i. pounds cornstarch, 1 ounce mace, lemon 
flavor or grated rind of 3 to 4 lemons, 10 pounds cake flour 
sifted with 1 ounce baking powder. 

Cream sugar with shortening and starch in machine until 
light. Add eggs in 14 -pint portions, beat light, add flour (and 
salt if required), then add milk, mix and add flour, folding it 
in lightly. This formula may be used for plain poundcake, 
fruit or nut cake, cherry or pineapple cake, etc. For 4 pounds 
of mixture add 1 pound of fruit or nut meats. 

Light and Heavy Fruit Cake 

From the seven formulas given all kinds of light and dark 
cake can be made. For 8 pounds of any of the given mixtures 
add from IV2 to 2 pounds fruit or nuts, or candied citron or 
orange peel. 

For a light mixed fruit cake add for 8 pounds of mixture : 
4 pounds seedless raisins, 1 pound currants, 2 pounds mixed 
peel cut in dice, V2 pound candied cherries or pineapple, flavor 
mace and lemon. 

Dark Fruit Cake 

2 pounds seeded large raisins, 4 pounds sultanas, 3 pounds 
currants, 2 pounds mixed peel, V2 pound figs, J/i pound al- 
monds, 114 pints dark molasses, grated rind and juice of 2 
oranges and 1 lemon, 114 ounces mixed spices. 

Citron Poundcake 

Add from V/* to 2 pounds sliced citron. 

Sultana Poundcake 
Add from 2V-> to 3 pounds sultanas. 

Orange Poundcake 

Add grated rind of from 2 to 3 oranges and 1 pound finely 
cut or ground candied orange peel. 

38 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Walnut, Pecan or Hickory Nut Cake 

Add from 1 to 2 pounds chopped nut meats. Use sugges- 
tions given for frosting given with No. 4 poundcake. 

Plain Pound Cake — Ice Cream Cake 
7 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 4 pounds compound, 1 
ounce salt. 1 pounds eggs, 2 quarts milk (or 8 ounces dry 
milk, 2 quarts water), 10 pounds cake flour, 1 pound bread 
(lour, 1/2 pound starch, 4 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace 
and lemon. 

Method of mixing: Put in machine 5 pounds sugar, salt, 
butter, compound, 1 pound bread flour, < o pound cornstarch 
(if using dry milk cream up with shortening). Beat eggs with 
2 pounds sugar and add flavor. Add beaten eggs to first mix- 
ture, then add milk or water, then 10 pounds cake flour with 
baking powder well sifted together, and mix smooth. Bake 
this in sheets 1 to l'-j inches thick, in wood frame; two sheets 
may be put together with various fillings, cut in slices or 
squares, fully iced and decorated. The mixture is also good 
for single sheets to be cut in small cakes, diamonds, dominoes 
and dipped cakes. 



39 



III. CAKES FOR SPECIAL 
OCCASIONS 



WEDDING CAKES 

Standard fruit cakes, such as Christmas cake and the best 
grades of other dark fruit cakes, may be used for wedding 
cakes. To the regular selling price of these fruit cakes must 
be added the time spent for decorating, also the cost of ma- 
terials used for this part of the work. As a rule bakers 
double the selling price of such cakes and in this price is 
included the cost of finishing and decorating. A wedding cake 
of average size to be made up in three tiers requires about 20 
pounds of mixture. For example: 

2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds eggs, 2i/o pounds 
flour, V2 pint N. 0. molasses, IV2 ounces mixed spices, 3 
pounds sultanas, 3 pounds seeded Malaga raisins, 2^£ pounds 
currants, 11/2 pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, 1 pound 
blanched and sliced almonds, the juice and grated rind of 2 
oranges and 2 lemons. 

This mixture to be baked in three graduated hoops, the 
tiers to weigh 10, 6 and 4 pounds, respectively. After careful 
baking in low heat the cakes are trimmed, and each cake is 
given two coatings. For the first coating a firm royal icing is 
used to cover and level any rough spots, and when dry, a soft 
icing is used for the second coating. The last coat is best dried 
quickly in a warm place to hold the gloss. The cakes are 
then set evenly together in pyramid form on a special 
stand or board, covered with lace paper. Some confectioners 
have special stands of elaborate design which are hired out 
for the special occasions. The stands are made of silver and 
add greatly to the attractive appearance of the cakes. In 
finishing the cakes with various decorations, bakers will find 
it a great aid to use some of the many artificial goods sold by 
bakers' supply houses. Silver and gold leaves, dragees, sprays 
of flowers, vases, bells, slippers, horseshoes, bride and groom 
on a stand, and other ornaments, make it easy for even the 
less skillful decorator to finish a cake nicely. 

40 



CAKKS 1-ou i:aki:ks 



Two or three tier cakes are popular: these are usually 
topped off with an ornament made of gum paste. In some 




cases an extra price is charged for the ornament, or the 
decoration may be included. 

The prices of wedding cakes vary, caterers who make a 



41 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



specialty of such cakes charging from one to three dollars 
and more for the pound. 

It is the custom to present the guests at the wedding, when 
leaving, with a piece of wedding cake. Caterers bake slabs 
from the same mixture and cut oblong pieces 3 inches by 114 




inches. The pieces are fully frosted, decorated with initials 
of bride and groom and placed in more or less elaborately fancy 
boxes, tied with fancy ribbons, which are handed to the guests 
when leaving. 

White Bride's Cake, or Wedding Cake 

White cakes are sometimes favored in place of the dark 
fruit cakes. These are best made of a solid lady cake or 

42 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



delicate cake mixture without milk, also from the plain white 
mixtures. They are made with or without fruit, as ordered. 

Each Cake with Fruit 

No. 1 — 3 pounds standard powdered sugar, 2 pounds 10 
ounces white butter. 1 quart egg white. 1 3 ounce cream of 









^| . 


^■^ *■ 




ill 


^ J 


W'' 


^1 




'^^H 
^^H 


^^ 





tartar, 3 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces cornstarch (for fruit cake 
take 3 pounds 6 ounces bread flour, leaving- out starch), 
vanilla or almond flavor, IV2 pounds sultanas, IV2 pounds 
cherries cut in quarters, 1 pound finely cut citron, 14 pound 
pineapple, 14 pound angelica (or 41/2 pounds of mixed fruit 
and almonds). 

Method of mixing: Cream butter lightly with even parts 
of flour. Beat egg whites and gradually beat in cream of 
tartar and 2 pounds of sugar. Bring both parts together and 

43 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mix lightly, adding flavor. Sift balance of sugar, flour and 
starch and add last ; when partly mixed add fruit. 




Lady Cake, White Poundcake 

No. 2 — 414 pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter, 3 pints egg 
white, 1/3 ounce cream tartar, •% pint milk, 4t/> pounds strong 
flour, flavor of almond or vanilla. 

44 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





45 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds white butter, 1 quart egg 
whites, 1 quart milk, 5 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of 
tartar, % ounce soda, flavor of almond, or 14 pound of almond 
paste dissolved in milk. Cream 2 pounds sugar light with 2 
pounds of butter, beat balance of sugar with egg whites, dis- 
solve soda in milk, sift cream of tartar in flour. Bring sugar 
and butter cream and beaten egg whites and sugar together, 
mixing lightly, add milk and flour in two portions, and mix 
smooth. 

Mixtures No. 2 and No. 3 may be used for chocolate or for 
marble cake, by taking a part of the mixture and adding 
powdered cocoa with a little milk, first placing a part of the 
white mixture in bottom of pan; cover with chocolate mixture 
and cover this with white again. 

Lady Baltimore Cake 

Use any of the given mixtures, adding some ground 
almonds or almond paste, flavor with vanilla. This cake may 
be made also in layers, filled and iced with Lady Baltimore 
filling (see Fillings and Icings). 

BIRTHDAY CAKES 

There is no standard or special style in this line of cakes, 
but birthday cake is a line of cake bakers should encourage 
and cater for. These cakes are less expensive and can be more 
easily made than wedding cakes, and, as they are more fre- 
quently called for a nicely made cake is apt to bring other 
trade. The lighter gTades of fruit cake, and, in fact, any other 
cake, such as sponge cake, angel cake and layer cake of all 
kinds, are ordered for birthday cakes, decorated as the fancy 
of the patron requires. Decorations vary ; the inscription or 
lettering, consisting of a greeting, or a name, may be used as 
a center decoration, and lengthy lettering may be placed on the 
cake in circular fashion, the lettering placed evenly apart in 
the place of a border and a scroll decoration placed in the 
center. A border may be piped on top edge and bottom and the 
lettering may be slightly raised by piping it over several times 
with a finer tube. If candles are to be placed on the cake, nice 
artificial candle holders in the form of flowers may be ranged 

46 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




47 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




CAKES FOR BAKERS 




CAKES FOR BAKERS 



symmetrically around or in the center of the cakes, arranging 
the decoration accordingly. With these candle holders, also 
various tinted candles, quite a nice effect may be produced. 
White scrolls and borders may be piped over with small pink 
stars or plain piping. A bottom border is desirable to cover up 
the space where the cakes meet the lace paper. This border is 
best made of scrolls or shells, applied with a large star tube, 
standing up on the side of the cake. 

CHRISTMAS CAKE 

The dark and rich grades of Christmas fruit cakes have 
decreased gradually and the lighter grades of fruit cake, plain 
poundcake and others are more favored by the public. But 




there is still a good demand for these cakes, and bakers are 
obliged to produce the different varieties to supply the demand. 
The rich grades of cake may be made early and kept on hand a 
month or several weeks before the busy season starts in, as 
these cakes improve with age. The weeks near to the holidays 
may be used for the less rich grades of lighter fruit cake and 
pound cake. In the decorating of Christmas cake, simple 
designs are the rule, designs which are easily exhausted, as 
the time required for very intricate and artistic work cannot 



50 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



be spared during the busy season. The style of decoration 
may easily he varied following- the most easily executed design 
which makes it possible to accomplish the work quickly. If a 
nice window display is intended, which often proves a great 
attraction and helps the sales, such display may lie prepared 
early in the season as time permits. Fruit cakes are usually 
only decorated on the top. The top is iced with fondant or 
soft royal icing; the border is made of scrolls or in many other 
variations using rope or loop designs, and the center is finished 
with the usual Christmas greeting. Colors may be used in the 
designs, sugar flowers, leaves, dragees, sprays of holly and 





' 'VI u 




W^ y "^ 




EL? j ^0&L 


k 


jWajl 


J^W^M 





other helps, which may be bought ready-made, can be used 
to facilitate the work and make the cakes more attractive. 
(See XVII. Preparing Cakes for Sale, for illustrations of 
Christmas Cake Tops.) 

Dark Fruit Cake 

Good ingredients are essential for all cake; a good tough 
butter which creams up well is desirable, and the salt should 
be washed out. If a neutral fat is used, salt may be added. 
The flavor of molasses is objectionable to some patrons and 
if this is left out a dark brown sugar and sugar coloring may 
be added, as burnt sugar is often extremely bitter. It should 
be used sparingly. Some bakers resort to browning' the flour 

51 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in the oven to obtain darker color. Brown sugar should be 
crushed and passed through a coarse sieve to remove lumps. 
In the following recipes the proportions of fruit may be 
changed according to prices obtained. Currants and some 
grades of candied peel, also nut meats, are very high in price, 
and small seedless California raisins may be used entirely in 
the place of currants. There is no set rule in the matter of 
fruits. A good neutral fat may be used in all cakes containing 
spices. The baking of fruit cakes requires great care, and to 
give gloss and to produce a smooth top the cakes should be 
washed with solution of one part molasses to four parts of 
water. 




The method of mixing fruit cake is practically the same 
for all good fruit cakes. Sugar, shortening and spices are 
properly creamed, the eggs are added in small portions, then 
milk and coloring, if any color is used. The flour is added and 
a part of the flour is rubbed with the fruit to separate it. The 
cakes are scaled in the prepared tins, smoothed and washed 
with syrup. The sides and bottoms are well protected in 
baking with strong paper and the cakes baked in slow heat. 



Standard Christmas Cake Formulas 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 4 pounds butter, 4 pounds eggs, 
lVa ounces mixed spices, 11/2 pints milk, 5 pounds cake flour, 
1/2 ounce baking powder, sugar coloring, 6 pounds seedless 

52 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



raisins, 6 pounds large seeded raisins, 6 pounds currants, 2 
pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, 1 pound lemon peel, the 
grated rind and juice of 1 oranges and 4 lemons. 
Christmas Fruit Cake 
No. 2 — 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs (2 
pounds), 1 quart milk, • o ounce soda dissolved in the milk, 3 
ounces of mixed spices, 3 pounds large seeded raisins, 6 pounds 




Sultanas, 1 pound citron, ' ^ pound cherries cut in halves, i/2 
pound sliced blanched almonds, 6V-> pounds cake flour. Mix 
like No. 1. 

Fruit Cakes with Molasses, Standard Mixtures 
No. 1 — 4V-2 pounds sugar, 5 pounds butter and compound, 
5 pints eggs, 1 ounce soda creamed in with sugar and shorten- 
ing, 8 ounces mixed spices, 1 pint molasses, 10 pounds Sul- 
tanas, 10 pounds currants, 5 pounds citron or mixed peel, 5 
pounds cake flour. 

Fruit Cake with Dry Milk 

No. 2 — 7 pounds sugar, 4V£ pounds compound, 2 l / 2 ounces 
salt, 12 ounces dry milk powder, 6 ounces mixed spices, 4^ 
pints of eggs , 3 pints water , y± pint molasses , % ounce soda , 
8*4 pounds cake flour, 2 pounds large seeded raisins, 3 pounds 
Sultanas, 2 pounds currants, IV2 pounds mixed peel, V2 pound 
chopped figs, 14 pound cherries cut in halves. Cream dry 

53 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



milk with sugar and shortening and finish like other fruit 
cakes. 

Low-Priced Fruit Cakes 

No. 3 — 8 pounds sugar , 8 ounces mixed spices , '/2 ounce 
soda, l 1 /^ ounces salt, 4 pounds compound, 4 ounces butter 
oil, 2 quarts eggs, 2 1 /? pints molasses, 2'/2 pints milk, 12 
pounds cake flour , 10 pounds seedless raisins , 3 pounds large 
seeded raisins, 3 pounds currants, 4 pounds fine cut figs, 2 
pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, the grated rind and juice 
of 3 oranges and 3 lemons. 

No. 4 — 2 1 /) pounds sugar, l 1 /) pounds compound, 1 /2 ounce 
salt , 1 ounce soda , 1 pint eggs , 1 quart molasses , 1 quart 
milk, 6 pounds cake flour, 6 pounds raisins and currants, 1 
pound mixed peel; 2 ounces spices. 

Molasses Cake 

No. 5 — % pound sugar, 114 pounds shortening, 3 pints 
molasses, 3 pints milk, 2 ounces soda, 2 ounces mixed spices, 
6 eggs, 6 pounds flour, 3 pounds seedless raisins, 1 1 a> pounds 
currants, V2 pound finely chopped citron. 

Apple Fruit Cake — Boston Lunch Cake 

3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds compound, 1 pint eggs, 3 ounces 
mixed spices, 3 pints milk, 3 ounces soda dissolved in milk, 
3 pints molasses, 4*4 pounds bread flour, 4V-> pounds cake 
flour, 4 pounds canned apples, drained, finely cut and mixed 
with 1 pound of the flour, 4 pounds seedless raisins, 3 pounds 
currants, V2 pound ground nut meats. Mix apples with other 
fruits and mix as usual. Scale mixture 3 pounds in pan size 
HV^x6 1 / 4x2 inches, lined with V^-mch wood frame, double 
paper on bottom, single paper on sides. Cakes sell whole 
frosted on top, or cut in 3 pieces. 

Light Fruit Cake — Genoa Cake 

41/2 pounds sugar, 214 pounds butter, 2 pounds compound, 
5 pints eggs, 1 quart milk, 7 pounds cake flour, i/> ounce bak- 
ing powder, 3 pounds Sultanas, 1 pound currants, 1 pound 
cherries cut in halves, 1 pound citron, V2 pound orange peel, 
flavor of mace or almond. Mix like poundcake, using sugar or 
flour batter method. Bake in blocks or small frames. 

54 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sultana Genoa 

•") pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds compound, 2 
quarts eggs, 2 ounces dry milk, 1 quart water, 8 pounds Hour, 
2 ounces baking powder, ti pounds Sultanas, 1 pound of mixed 
citron and orange peel. 

Mixed Fruit Cake 
6 pounds sugar, 1 pounds compound, butter flavor, 2 quarts 
eggs, 5 ounces milk powder, 2 1 , quarts water, 2 ounces salt, 
12 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces baking powder, 5 pounds mixed 
fruit, 1 pound of mixed peel, flavor of lemon and mace. 

Madeira Cake — Small Loaf Cake 

". pounds sugar. 1 pound butter, 1 pound compound. 3 
ounces dry milk, 3 pints v^irs. vanilla flavor, 1 quart water, 1 
ounce soda. -Ho pounds flour sifted with 2 ounces cream of 
tartar. Mix as usual, but mix well after adding the flour. 
These mixtures may be u>^^\ for various kinds of nut cake, 
adding from j g to 1 pound or less of fine chopped almonds, 
filberts, walnuts, etc., and if the nut meats are very dry a 
little additional milk may be added. Make small cakes from 
•% to 2-pound sizes. 



55 



IV. ROLL-CAKES, LAYERS, ETC. 

It takes some practice to make a jelly roll or chocolate 
roll just right. The mixtures, especially the bowl mixtures, 
are made very soft, and must be baked in good heat. If the 
heat is too quick, the sheets are apt to blister in baking, 
which makes an unsightly looking roll. If the oven is too 
cool, the cakes bake too slowly, dry out and break easily when 
rolled. A little practice will soon tell which temperature is 
best suited for the mixture used for these rolls. 

Level, straight-sided pans of the usual size, 19x25x1 inch, 
should be greased on the sides and covered with a sheet of 
paper. The mixture must be spread evenly on the paper in 
the pan, using a bowl knife. Sponge mixtures may be laid 
out with bag and plain lady finger tube or by using a wide 
flat tube. While the cakes are baking, put another sheet of 
strong brown paper on the table, dust this lightly with spring 
flour, and turn the baked sheet on the dusted paper. Now 
remove the paper on which the cake is baked (this may be 
done by wetting lightly). Spread the softened jelly or marsh- 
mallow evenly over the baked sheet, then roll carefully by 
lifting the paper on the side nearest to you with both hands, 
press the sides of the sheet over and roll gently without too 
much pressure. Keep the roll in the paper until cold. Then 
unroll the paper and brush off the flour before cutting the roll 
in pieces. Some of the mixtures may require more heat in 
baking than others, and again some mixtures must be rolled 
quickly if oven is not just right, while, when quickly baked, 
they are best given a little time, when turned on the bench, 
before spreading on the jelly; if too soft when rolled the cake 
is apt to> get heavy. To keep in the moisture so they roll 
better, the pan may be left turned over the cakes on the bench, 
especially if many rolls have to be rolled without extra help. 
These little points will soon be learned in practice. 

56 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Swiss Roll 

For Swiss roll beat together 24 eggs, l 1 j pounds powdered 
sugar, in kettle or machine until very light. Then add Vfa 
pounds sifted cake flour, flavor of lemon or vanilla. Run out 
on papered pans, with bag and plain tube, and bake in about 
400 degrees. When baked turn over and fill, spreading liber- 
ally with jelly or creams of different flavors. Eight ounces of 
cocoa or melted chocolate may be added for chocolate cream 
roll. 

This mixture, if carefully handled, and not baked too hard, 
may also be rolled when cold. It stays soft if well covered 
with paper or a pan. The cold roll may be filled with butter 
cream or other filling. The given mixture makes 2 pans or 
rolls 16x30 inches or l!)x2-~> inches. 

Sponge Roll 

12 whites, 12 yolks, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 pound flour 
and 14 ounce baking powder, sifted together, vanilla flavor. 
Beat egg whites, adding gradually half the sugar till very stiff; 
stir in the yolks and flavor, and lastly, other half of sugar 
sifted with flour and baking powder. Mix lightly as for lady 
fingers, and lay out on two pans same as the Swiss roll. When 
baked fill as directed. 

Bowl Mixtures— Chocolate Roll 

3 pounds sugar, 1 pint yolks, 1 pint whole eggs, 3 pints milk, 
2 ounces soda, 3 ounces tartar substitute, 10 ounces melted 
chocolate, V-j ounce cloves, \o ounce cinnamon, 4*4 pounds cake 
flour. Mixture makes 5 rolls on pan 18x25x1, and each roll 
cuts in 6 pieces. Roll while hot, fill with marshmallow. When 
cold cut and frost each cut separately. A few chopped nuts 
may be sprinkled on each piece. 

Method : Rub sugar and eggs together in bowl, melt choco- 
late, adding 2 ounces lard, add to creamed sugar and yolks with 
spice, then add milk and soda in two portions, mix well, and 
lastly, add the flour sifted with the tartar substitute. Bake 
in 350 to 400 degrees. Filling rolls with marshmallow softens 
the filling and the rolls are best made in the afternoon and kept 

57 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in the papers to cool and harden until morning, or set in a cold 
place, and used when required. 

Yellow Bowl Mixture 

No. 1 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs, half yolks, 1 quart 
milk, 41/2 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces tartar substi- 
tute, 3 ounces melted butter, vanilla flavor. Mixture makes 5 
pans. Mix like chocolate roll. Use for jelly roll, marshmallow 
or maple roll. 

No. 2 — Two Pan Mixture: li/o pounds sugar, 9 eggs, % 
pint milk, 1% pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, flavor of 
vanilla or lemon. 

No. 3 — Three Pan Mixture: Beat 10 eggs with 2 pounds 
light brown sugar in bowl, add V/o pints of milk, then add 31/4. 
pounds cake flour sifted with 3 ounces baking powder. Mix 
well in final mixing. Bake on 3 pans. 

No. 4 — Four Pan Mixture (very low priced) : 3 pounds 
sugar, 12 eggs, Vfa quarts milk, 4*4 pounds soft cake flour, 4 
ounces baking powder, lemon flavor. Mix like other bowl mix- 
tures. Bake in 375 to 400 degrees. Do not roll too hot. 

Many Ways of Finishing Rolls 

No. 1 — Spread with jam or jelly, roll up as usual, when 
cold sift powdered sugar over the cut rolls. 

No. 2 — Fill with a good pastry cream filling, roll up, and 
when cold ice with chocolate and decorate with a row of wal- 
nuts or pecans along the center; sell by the cut or by the 
pound. 

No. 3 — Fill rolls with orange or lemon cream (see Icings 
and Fillings). Cover the whole roll with apricot or other fruit 
jam and roll in short cocoanut, or omit the cocoanut and roll in 
fine granulated sugar. Decorate each cut with a slice of orange 
dipped in caramel sugar. Use the various nut creams, cof- 
fee flavored cream, and other fillings in similar manner, cover 
with appropriate icing. Mix lemon cream or orange cream with 
finely cut preserved pineapple, or add a few candied cherries 
to mixture. The outside of the roll may be covered with the 
same cream and rolled in sugar or fine cut cocoanut or other 
nut meats. The rolls may be covered with fruit flavored icing 
or fondant and sprinkled with chopped blanched almonds light- 

58 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



ly browned or with short cocoanut colored pink or browned. 
Another way is to color some of the roll mixture pink, and 
make some small thin rolls from Swiss or sponge cake mixture. 
Fill and roll up, cover the roll with jam; then take some of 
the light colored mixture, hake and roll it around the colored 
center. This makes a nice looking roll when cut. The rolls 
may then be finished on the outside similar to other rolls 
given above. 

The various Mocha or butter creams may be used for filling 
the Swiss roll mixture when cold. They may then be finished 
with butter cream or other icings as fancy suggests. 




Still another way is to color a part of any of the roll mix- 
ture with chocolate, another part pink. Use bag and tube and 
put mixture in alternating colors on the paper, spread even and 
bake. This makes ribbon roll or marbled roll which produces 
one more variety. When finished each cut should be placed 
on waxed paper. This is the best way to handle rolls in the 
store. 

Lunch Room Rolls 

In bakery lunch rooms, the rolls are sold in small cuts to 
make one portion, and when the fresh fruits are in season, 
strawberries, raspberries or fresh ripe peaches cut in dice, are 
mixed or spread over a thin marshmallow filling and made up 
in rolls. Each roll is cut into 10 to 12 cuts. They are very 
popular dishes to serve by the slice, with or without a spoonful 
of cream sauce or custard. 

59 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



This suggests the use of canned preserved fruits in the 
same manner. Apple sauce roll with cream is another popular 
delicacy for the lunch room, and has proved a good seller. 

SPONGE CAKE 

In sponge cakes, where eggs are the only lightening agent, 
great care must be taken in the mixing. These mixtures are 
divided into warm and cold mixtures, and as a rule in the 
warm mixtures eggs and sugar are beaten together. In the 
cold process the whites are beaten up cold, and the yolks are 
stirred lightly with a part of the sugar. The beaten whites 
are then added in several portions to the yolks and drawn in 
with the flour. 

In beating the whites a little sugar is added when the 
whites stand up. It must be put in a little at a time or the 
mixture will soften and become sticky. After mixture is 
beaten fully with a little sugar, the balance of sugar may be 
drawn in lightly, but without much mixing. This method is 
also used for meringue. 

One of the most important points to observe in all mixtures 
where eggs are beaten light is to have the utensils, beaters 
and kettle free from the least particle of grease. Even kettles 
which have been used to cream or beat up fats and have been 
cleaned may contain fat soaked in the metal, and when beating 
up a warm mixture this may enter and spoil the mixture by 
preventing the eggs from being beaten up properly. It is well 
to have separate kettles for beating eggs. At all times 
the bringing together of beaten eggs and flour must be done 
lightly ; the flour must be well sifted and dry. If water or milk 
is added it should be hot but not boiling, so it will not destroy 
the lifting power of the eggs by cooking the whites. 

Beating egg whites or whole eggs on too fast speed is apt 
to destroy the lifting power, and overbearing must be guarded 
against. The final mixing in of flour is best done by hand by 
turning mixture in a bowl. For small hand mixtures, such as 
lady fingers, etc., after the whites are beaten up and sugar 
added, the stirred yolks may be mixed in with the beater, not 
beaten in, only lightly mixed in. The flour may be folded in by 
hand, or using a skimmer or spatula; or in mixtures where the 

60 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



yolks are beaten lightly in a bowl, the beaten whites may be 
drawn into the mix in several portions before adding - the flour. 
If butter is added it should be melted and added last, when the 
flour is nearly mixed in, carefully, without overmixing. In 
warm mixtures it is better to have the flour a little warmed 
after sifting; it will help the mixture. When beating whites, 
have them cold and see that they are free from yolk; the yolk 
will prevent whites from beating up fully. Some flours are 
weaker than others, so a baker must use judgment adding a 
few more or less eggs. Prepare everything, such as tins and 
paper, etc., before mixing, to get the mixtures in the oven as 
quickly as possible. 




Tins or frames are used dry or greased and dusted with 
flour or fine sugar, or lined with paper. Dry tins must be 
perfectly clean or the cake will stick in baking or show black 
spots; dry baked cakes are turned upside down on cloths or 
bags when taken from the oven, and while cold they are 
loosened from the sides by pressing the finger lightly around 
the sides or a knife may be run around the sides and the cakes 
knocked out. Ovens with strong bottom heat are apt to bake 
these cakes too hard on the bottom. A ring of paper may be 
placed in the bottom of the round tins, a square in others ; this 
helps to loosen the bottom. For some other cakes the tins 
may be slightly greased with a mixture of about 2 ounces of 
flour mixed with 1 pound lard, or the tins or frames may be 
greased and dusted with flour. The cakes may also be baked 
in paper lined tins. 

61 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Angel cake tins, or tins with straight sides and large center 
tube, are very convenient for sponge cake; the turk's-head 
forms are also used. A very popular size is a large ring form 
used by wholesale cake bakers. This form is 11 to 12 inches 
in diameter, 3 inches deep, with a 4 inch wide center tube. The 
tins are lined with paper used for baking sponge cake and 
butter sponge, and produce a large looking ring cake about 31/2 
inches wide. A pan of this size holds from li/> to 1%, pounds 
of cake dough. This cake is put up in nice paper board boxes 
for retail trade. It is also sold by grocers by the cut or slice. 
Other cakes are baked in papered bread tins, scaled 9 ounces in 




dough, others again in sizes weighing from 16 to 18 ounces, 
using round, square or oval tins. 

Eggs may be warmed by laying the whole eggs in hot 
water, just hot enough for the hand to bear, or the broken 
eggs may be heated by setting kettle in hot water and stirring 
to warm them. The sugar may be sifted on a paper set on a 
pan and heated in the oven, then both sugar and eggs may be 
beaten up together, by hand or machine. 

Lady Fingers — Finger Biscuits 

No. 1 — 14 eggs, separated, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 
pound cake flour, flavor of vanilla or lemon. 

No. 2 — 1 quail egg whites, IV2 pints yolks, 3 pounds sugar, 
half powdered, half granulated ; 3 pounds cake flour. 

Method : Beat whites stiff with a pinch of salt, add a little 

62 



CAKES FOR l'.AKKKS 



at a time 1 :'> of the sugar; stir yolks light with balance of 
sugar and add flavor. Add yolks to meringue, mix lightly, and 
draw in the sifted Hour. Another way is to beat whites light. 
add a little of the sugar, then mix balance into the beaten 
whites as for meringue, and then add the yolks, simply mixed 
without sugar, then the Hour. Both methods work well. 

Warm process: Beat together 2' | pounds sugar, 1 pint 
yolks, 1 ' -. pints whole eggs, setting kettle in hot water, or 
warming the sugar and eggs separately before beating up. 
Beat mixture until it does not How readily from beater, then 
set kettle in cold water or beat in cold place until firm. Draw 
in 2 pounds 2 ounces cake flour and mix lightly but fully. 

All lady finger mixtures must be dressed up and baked off 
as quickly as possible, because the mixtures soften and the 
cakes run flat. Have pans and papers ready before starting, 
set up only a couple of pans at a time, and bake them off. It 
is best that one man tends to the baking, while the other 
dresses the fingers on the paper; this facilitates the handling 
of the mixture. Fill mixture in bag, using a plain tube. Use 
thick pans or double pans free from grease. Run in even 
sized fingers on the paper cut to fit the pans, sift powdered 
sugar over the fingers, then lift paper by two corners to shake 
off the surplus sugar and place on the pans. Bake in even 
heat of from 400 to 450 degrees to a light brown color. Take 
the baked fingers off the hot pans to prevent drying out. Do 
not use hot pans for baking again, as the heat may crack the 
fingers before they bake on top. Turn the cool fingers over on 
the table, wet the back of the paper with a brush, let soak a 
few minutes; then put two fingers together. Pile in even 
rows on store pans and sift a little icing sugar over each 
layer. This adds to the appearance, making them look better 
in the show- case. 

Plain Sponge Cake 

Ten to 12 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound cake flour, flavor 
of grated rind of lemon or orange or vanilla. Work mixture 
the same as for lady fingers, cold or warm. This mixture may 
be used for fingers and small drops as well as for small loaf 
cakes. Bake in papered tins on greased and dusted forms. 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Plain Sponge Cake With Water 

Three pounds sugar, 3 pounds eggs, 3V-> pounds bread 
flour, 1/2 pint hot water, flavor of lemon, orange or vanilla 
Beat eggs and sugar warm, and when they stand up well add 
the hot water, mix in fully, then take out the beater and 
lightly cut in the flour. Fill in pans and bake in good oven. 

Butter Sponge Cake — Warm Mixture 

Two and one-half pints eggs, 2 pounds fine granulated 
sugar, 12 ounces melted butter, 2 pounds strong cake flour, 
1 ounce baking powder, flavor of vanilla, lemon or orange. 
Beat sugar with eggs as usual, then add flavoring, then care- 
fully stir or cut in the flour and baking powder, also the 
melted butter. 

By adding an extra half pint of yolks with the whole eggs, 
this mixture may be made into golden sponge cake. The 
cakes may be baked in paper-lined rings, set on pans 
on greased paper and dusted with sugar before baking, or 
the mixture may be baked in dry tins, or angel cake tins, 
turned over after baking on bags to steam and then knocked 
out. 

Vienna Butter Sponge 

One and one-half pints eggs, 1 pound sugar, 12 ounces 
cake flour, 4 ounces cornstarch, 5 ounces melted butter. Mix 
as suggested for preceding cakes. Bake in turk's-head or 
angel cake tins or in large ring forms, greased and dusted. 
Turn from the forms while warm and sift powdered sugar 
over cake. 

Low Cost Water Sponge Cake 

One pint eggs, 1 pint water, 2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds 
flour— Vo cake flour, V2 bread flour, V/* ounces baking powder. 

Hot Water Sponge Cake for Machine 

Eleven pounds sugar, 3 pints whole eggs, 3 pints yolks, 
4 ounces melted butter, 2 quarts hot water, 8 pounds strong 
cake flour, 114 ounces soda, 2 l /i ounces cream of tartar, lemon, 
orange or vanilla flavor. 

64 



CAKES FOR MAKKKS 



Method of mixing: Beat 8 pounds sugar, eggs and soda in 
machine for about 20 minutes; then add the other 3 pounds 
sugar and beat 5 minutes more; add the melted butter; then 
turn mixture into a bowl. Add the 2 quarts of hot water, the 
flavor, then the cake Hour sifted with the cream of tartar. 
This makes 2(> loaves of 18 ounces each. 

Victory Sponge Cake 

Three quails yolks, 3 quarts whole eggs, 10 pounds granu- 
lated sugar. 3V& quarts hot milk, 8 pounds bread flour, 
1 pounds cornstarch, 8 ounces baking powder, flavor of lemon 
or vanilla. Warm eggs and sugar separately, put in machine 
and beat up until light or from 30 to 40 minutes, then add 
carefully the hot milk and flavor; fold in the flour, starch 
and baking powder sifted together, carefully, without over- 
mixing. Use mixture for sheet cake, jelly roll or large cake. 
Get in the oven as quickly as possible. 

Ohio Orange Cakes 

Two and one-half pints av:<r whites, 2 pounds powdered 
sugar, 1 pint yolks, 1 pound 2 ounces granulated sugar, 
1 pound 10 ounces cake Hour, j •> ounce pure cream tartar, 
3 oranges. 

Method of mixing: Grate rind of 2 oranges and beat light 
with yolks and granulated sugar. Beat whites and when stiff 
beat in about x /-i pound powdered sugar, a little at time, then 
mix in the balance, as for meringue. Then turn into bowl and 
lightly mix in the yolks and fold in the flour. Bake in dry 
pans at 325 degrees. Turn over on bags to let cool. Run 
knife around the sides and knock out the cakes. Make a soft 
icing from the grated rind of 1 orange and the juice of 3 
oranges, add half water, and sufficient icing-sugar to make 
a transparent frosting. 

Size of pans for 11 ounces of dough: Top inside measure, 
Sy 2 inches long, 414 inches wide; side, 3Vk inches high; bot- 
tom, 3% inches wide. This size cake, iced as directed, is a 
very good seller. The mixture may be baked in large blocks, 
dry pans, size lli/fcxl^/^xl^, inches deep with straight sides. 
Scaled 2% to 3 pounds, two pans are put together when 

65 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



baked, with marshmallow or orange cream. Each pan makes 
10 cuts. Bake small pans in 325 degrees, blocks in 325 to 330 
degrees. 

Sunshine Cakes 

One and one-half quarts yolks, IV2 quarts whites, 4 pounds 
sugar, 3 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, grated rind 
of 2 lemons. Stir yolks with 3 pounds sugar, add flavor, beat 
whites, add 1 pound sugar when nearly stiff. Mix like orange 
cake. Two ounces melted butter improves this mixture. Bake 
in dry angel cake tins, with a ring of paper in bottom, turn 
over and let cool. Ice with lemon-flavored cream icing. 

Angel Cakes 

One pound powdered sugar, 1 pound granulated sugar, 
1 quart egg whites, 14 ounces cake flour, 2 ounces cornstarch, 
1 ounce pure cream of tartar, vanilla flavor. 

Beat whites and add cream of tartar. When nearly firm 
beat in one-quarter of the sugar, mix in balance as for 
meringue, then add flour and starch and mix lightly but fully. 
Bake in 325 to 330 degrees. Bake in dry pans and ice with 
vanilla. The mixture may also be baked in the pans used 
for orange cakes. Scale blocks of the size given 2% pounds 
in dough and when baked put two blocks together with marsh- 
mallow, ice with vanilla cream frosting. 

The mixture may be varied, making a light sunshine or 
moonshine cake, by adding from 6 to 12 yolks to the beaten 
egg whites before adding the flour. Another variety is made 
by adding from 4 to 8 ounces powdered cocoa, sifted with flour 
and starch. Frost cake when baked with chocolate, orange, 
lemon or caramel icing. 

Chocolate Sponge Cake 

Take 30 egg whites, 36 yolks, 21/i. pounds coarse powdered 
sugar, V2 ounce cream of tartar, 8 ounces powdered cocoa, 
l 4< ounce cloves, V2 ounce cinnamon, 4 ounces cornstarch, 
1 pound cake flour. Mix and sift together flour, starch, 
cocoa, spices and V2 pound sugar. Beat up the whites, beat 
in a handful of the sugar and cream of tartar, then mix in 

66 



CAKKS I'OK BAKEUS 



balance of sugar as for meringue. Now draw in the well- 
mixed yolks, lastly the flour and chocolate mixture. Bake in 
dry tins with center tube. Bake and turn on bags to cool. 
Frost with chocolate. 

A variety of this cake may be made by adding nuts, 
almonds or roasted filberts chopped fine, and ice with choco- 
late; sprinkle a few chopped nuts on icing. 

I hitter Sponge Cake, Bowl Mixture 

No. 1 — 3<j. pounds sugar — half powdered, half granu- 
lated — 1 ( -j pounds butter, 1 quart yolks, 1 quart milk, 31/2 
pounds cake flour, ' ._> pound cornstarch, 1 j ._. ounces baking- 
powder, grated rind of 2 lemons. Beat yolks light with 
2 pounds of sugar, cream together 1 ' ( . pounds of powdered 
sugar and butter, add flavor and bring butter cream and 
yolks together. Add milk, lastly flour, starch and powder 
silted together. Bake in sheets in paper-lined tins or in 
angel cake forms. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 j g pounds butter, 3 pints eggs 
(30), l 1 2 pints milk, 3 pounds 14 ounces flour, 6 ounces corn- 
starch, 2' 1 ounces baking powder, vanilla or lemon flavor. 
Cream shortening light with half of the sugar, beat eggs 
with balance of sugar, mix and add milk, then flour, starch 
and baking powder. 

SPECIAL LAYER CAKE AND TART MIXTURES 

Poundcake mixtures, as well as the white and yellow com- 
mercial cake mixtures, may be made into layer cakes or other 
small cakes sold by the piece or slice. These cakes may be 
put together in two or three layers, or baked in large sheets 
or slabs and put together in two or three layers, to be cut 
into squares. There are many attractive fillings, fruit jams, 
jellies, butter and mocha creams and icings, and other creams, 
besides marshmallow, which may be mixed with nut meats, 
fruits, figs or dates. A very large variety of nut cakes may 
be made in layers or small cakes. Quite a combination of indi- 
vidual cakes may be made from the light, yellow and dark 
mixtures, baked in single slabs one inch thick, and the same 
mixtures may be put together in Neapolitan style, in layers 
of various colors, with different fillings and icings. 

67 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



French Gateau Mixtures 

No. 1 — 2!/2 pounds standard powdered sugar, beaten with 
1 pint egg yolks, 1 quart whole eggs; 2 1 /? pounds of butter 
creamed with 2 pounds of strong cake flour, 14 pound corn- 
starch. Flavor with mace and grated rind of 2 lemons. Put 
these mixtures together. Bake in lined pan to make a sheet 
about two inches thick, in baking heat of about 340 degrees 
Fahr. The sheets may be cut in six-inch squares, put together 
with various fillings, top and sides finished in many ways. 

No. 2 — 1 pound butter, 1 pound powdered sugar, 15 eggs, 
11/4 pounds cake flour, vanilla or lemon flavor. Cream butter 
light with 1 pound of flour, beat eggs with sugar, mix both 
together, add flavor and remaining flour. This mixture, baked 
in one-inch-thick sheet, in paper-lined frame, is very suitable 
for small dipped cakes. They cut best when a day old, and 
may be kept on hand, if well covered, for a number of days. 

Gateau or Genoa Slab (for Small Cakes) 

No. 3 — 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds sugar, 16 eggs, scant 
Vi pint milk, flavor of lemon or mace, 2 pounds cake flour. 
Use method of mixing previously given, add milk last, bake 
in one- or two-inch-thick slab in frame. The cakes may be 
cut or split with a sharp knife and filled with the various 
fillings suggested. 

Genoa Cakes With Fruit 

No. 4 — 114 pounds sugar, %, pound butter, V2 pound 
neutral fat, IV2 pints eggs, 11/4 to l x /-i pounds fruit or peel, 
1 pound 14 ounces cake flour, 1 8 ounce baking powder. Flavor 
to suit the fruits added. Bake in small round, oval or square 
forms, the day before using. The cakes may be finished off 
in many ways. Mixture makes from four to five small loaf 
cakes. By changing fruit and peel, and using nut meats, a 
very large variety of cakes can be made from this mixture. 

Vienna Tart Mixture, Warm Process 

No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 30 eggs, V2 pound butter, 
'/> pound cake flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch or potato starch. 

68 



CAKKS l-OK BAKKRS 



No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, 12 eggs, 12 yolks, U pound corn- 
starch. ! - pound flour. 9 ounces butter. 

Method: Beat eggs and sugar warm until the mixture 
shows a creamy thickness and does not run off the beater 
easily, then continue beating until it cools so that it can be 
noticed by the feel of the hand on the kettle. If the mixture 
does not show sufficient firmness it may be returned to the 
fire and beaten up warm again and then again cold. The flour 
and starch are then drawn in lightly, followed by the melted 
and cleared butter. Flavor with mace and lemon. 

No. 3 — Another Method: Heat 1 pound powdered sugar in 
the oven; melt 9 ounces butter; beat 22 egg whites stiff, then 
beat in the hot sugar; add 28 yolks to the meringue, with 
some lemon flavor; draw in U pound of starch and '/•> pound 
cake (lour sifted together, and lastly add the melted butter. 

Vienna Mixture, Cold Process 

No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 16 yolks, 15 whites of 
eggs, \'-y pound cornstarch, to pound flour, 1 pound melted 
butter. Flavor with grated rind of lemon and mace. 

No. 2 — 1' o pounds powdered sugar, 20 egg yolks, 12 whites 
of eggs, 1 pound 2 ounces cake flour, ' o pound melted butter. 
Flavor. 

Method: Beat whites stiff and beat in one-fourth of the 
sugar; stir yolks lightly with the rest of sugar; mix both 
together carefully, add flavoring and draw in the sifted flour, 
and lastly add the melted butter. 

Sand Cakes or Sand Torten 

Sand cakes are made by the same methods, by the warm 
or cold process, as the Vienna mixtures just given. Many 
bakers are using the Vienna mixtures for sand cakes, because 
a lighter cake can be produced. The regular sand cakes are 
made with a smaller quantity of eggs, resulting in a more 
solid cake. The regular sand torte forms are imported. 
They are made from heavy pressed tin, with corrugated sides 
and round bottom, usually about 16 inches in diameter and 
4 inches deep, with a 5-inch center tube. Many bakers are 
using a large round tin with straight sides, 11 to 12 inches in 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



diameter, 3 inches deep, with a 4-inch center tube. For the 
sand cakes the forms are greased and dusted, or a mixture of 
2 ounces of flour with 1 pound of fat is used for greasing the 
tins, and the cakes are turned out of the forms when baked. 
Some other bakers line the forms with paper. The well- 
known angel cake tins and the Turk's head forms are also used 
for baking these cakes. They are sold whole or by the slice 
or cut, without being frosted. 

No. 1 — Heavy mixture: 1 pound powdered sugar, 9 eggs, 
separated, 1/2 pound cake flour, V2 pound cornstarch, V2 pound 
melted butter. 

No. 2 — Light mixture: 1 pound sugar, 10 ounces cake 
flour, 6 ounces cornstarch, 15 eggs, 4 to 8 ounces melted 
butter. Flavor of lemon and mace. 

Method: For cold process, separate eggs, stir yolks until 
light with three-fourths of the sugar; beat whites stiff and 
beat in one-fourth of sugar; bring both parts together; add 
flavor; draw in the sifted flour and starch, lastly the melted 
butter. 

For the warm process, beat eggs and sugar warm and 
cold (see method, Vienna tart mixture), heat and melt the 
butter; mix sifted flour and starch in egg batter; then add 
the hot melted butter and fill in the prepared forms. These 
mixtures require a good heat in baking, the same as sponge 
cake. 

Nut Cake Mixture for Torten 

No. 1 — V2 pound ground walnuts or filberts, 1/2 pound 
almond paste rubbed smooth with 4 eggs ; add 1 pound pow- 
dered sugar and stir until light with 16 yolks of eggs; then 
add the stiffly beaten whites of 14 eggs and draw in ' •> pound 
cake flour. Bake in layers in medium heat. 

No. 2 — Rub smooth 1 pound blanched almonds or other 
nut meats with sufficient water in mortar; add this to 30 
yolks, beaten until light with 1 pound sugar; then add the 
beaten whites of 24 eggs and draw in 14 pound cake flour. 
Bake in medium heat. 

Nut mixtures are made also with chocolate. Some others 
contain small quantities of butter. They may be varied in 

70 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



many other ways. Vienna or sponge mixtures may be used, 
simply adding- the nut meats to the finished mixture with the 
flour. 

French Chocolate Almond Cake 

Cream ' •_> pound butter and • o pound powdered sugar until 
light; add by degrees 21 yolks; work smooth j o pound almond 
paste with 2 egg* and add to creamed sugar and butter; then 
add 6 ounces powdered cocoa. Beat 12 whites stiff and draw 
in first mixture; then add 1 ounces cake flour, 2 ounces corn- 
starch, flavor of vanilla or spices. Bake in medium heat, 320 
to 330 degrees Fahr. 

Swiss Chocolate Sacher Mixture 

No. 1 — 1 pound melted butter. \ g pound blanched almonds 
or almond paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, 8 ounces cocoa, 24 
yolks, 2 1 egg' whites. ."> ounces sifted cake numbs, 1 ounces 
flour and starch. 

Method: Rub almonds or paste smooth with a little water; 
stir yolks until light with three-fourths of the sugar; beat 
whites stiff with one-fourth of the sugar. Add almond paste 
to yolks, then the beaten whites, crumbs, flour and cocoa, mix, 
and lastly add the melted butter. 

No. 2 — 16 yolks, 12 whites, i/> pound butter melted, 6 
ounces cocoa, 8 ounces cake flour, >/2 pound sugar, vanilla 
flavor. Mix same as preceding formula. 

High-Grade American Tart and Layer Cake Mixtures 

No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 14 ounces butter, 
1 quart yolks, 1%. pints milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % pound 
cornstarch, the grated rind of 2 lemons, flavor of mace, V/2 
ounces cream of tartar, % ounce soda. 

Method: Cream until light 2 pounds sugar and butter; 
beat the yolks until light with 1 pound of sugar; dissolve soda 
in milk, sift flour, starch and cream of tartar together. Bring 
butter and sugar cream and beaten eggs and sugar together, 
add flavor; mix in a handful of flour until smooth; add milk; 
then balance of flour and mix smooth. Bake in good heat. 

This mixture is well adapted for special layers and large 

71 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



tart cakes. Put together in from three to six thin layers, 
using any of the various creams, jellies or other fillings. It 
is especially nice for birthday torten, where a high-grade cake 
is desired. 

No. 2 — 1/2 pint of yolks, V2 pint whole eggs beaten light 
with 114 pounds of powdered sugar. Add 4 ounces butter to 
y*l pint milk, heat together to near boiling point, or about 180 
degrees, but do not let boil. Add this to beaten eggs and 
sugar, mix together lightly, add flavor of lemon or vanilla, 
then add 1 pound flour — one-half cake flour, one-half bread 
flour, and 14 pound cornstarch sifted with !/i ounce baking 
powder, and mix smooth but lightly. Bake in layers or sheets 
in medium heat. 

This mixture may be varied by adding nut meats, finely 
chopped or ground, such as walnuts or filberts, or blanched 
and browned almonds. The fillings may consist of butter 
creams or nut creams. Chocolate may be used in the mix- 
ture as well as in the fillings. Baked in slabs, these may be 
split and filled, to be cut in diamonds, squares or other small 
individual cakes. 

Chocolate Cream Cakes 

Melt 8 ounces chocolate with 4 ounces butter; cream light 
3 pounds sugar, 2V2 pounds butter; add by degrees 5 pints of 
mixed eggs; sift 4i/o pounds cake flour with %, ounce baking 
powder, add to egg and butter cream ; lastly add the melted 
chocolate, and finish mixing. Flavor with vanilla, or pow- 
dered cinnamon and cloves. Varieties of this cake are made 
by adding nut meats of different kinds. 

Butter Sponge Layer and Tart Cake 

Beat 1 quart whole eggs and 1 pint yolks light with 2 
pounds sugar, warm. When light add </•> pint hot water, mix 
lightly ; add the grated rind of one lemon ; then add V2 pound 
cornstarch, 2 pounds cake flour and 2 3 ounce baking powder 
sifted together ; mix lightly and add % pound of melted 
butter. 

Good Layer and Sheet Cake 

Three pounds powdered sugar; 2 pounds shortening — half 
butter, half lard ; 1 quart eggs ; 1 quart milk ; 4%. pounds 

72 



CAKES FOR RAKERS 



cake flour; i' 1 - ounces baking powder. This makes a good 
all around mixture for slabs, layers and small loaf cake. 
Chocolate and nut meats may be added if desired. 

Method: Cream sugar and shortening; add eggs in small 
portions; add a handful of flour after last portion of eggs, 
also flavor; then add milk in rest of Hour and mix smooth. 
Use for squares, small loaf and individual cakes. 

THE FINISHING OF TARTS AND LAYER CAKES 

From the given recipes, in connection with the many fill- 
ings and icings presented in another chapter, the skillful, 
inventive workman can devise numerous different cakes, mak- 
ing them taste good and look attractive. The preparation and 
finishing of the cakes must be done to suit his patrons, as 
ordered. Too much sweetness in cakes is often disliked. This 
is a point often disregarded. There are also many bakers 
who use the rich icings as fillings, where a lighter filling, 
cream or marshmallow, would be more suitable. A tasty, not 
too sweet, fruit filling is always appreciated in a rich cake, 
with fondant icing, and a change of fillings and icings, by the 
use of different flavors and colors, often brings increased sales. 

Nut meats are very popular for finishing cakes. Blanched 
chopped and browned almonds, filberts and cocoanut are 
excellent for finishing the sides, which are first covered with 
a part of the filling used in the cakes, and then covered with 
the chopped nut meats. Perfect halves of walnuts or pecans, 
and French fruit glaces are used to decorate the iced top. 

Tart cakes are put together in two, three or four layers. 
Or the cake may be baked in one slab and split in layers 
after baking. The icing and decoration should always, as 
far as possible, be in harmony with the fillings and with the 
flavor and fruit or nuts contained in the cake, or with the 
name the cake goes by. 

When large cakes are to be sold by the cut, or served in 
slices, it is very handy to have design arranged accordingly. 
This is best done by dividing the iced top into eight or ten 
sections, and then drawing double lines to divide each piece 
from rim to center. Each slice may then be decorated with a 
scroll, nuts or fruits. 

73 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Tins and Forms for Baking Tarts 

Tart layer cakes are best baked in straight-sided tins, 
from 10 to 12 inches in diameter and having a rim about an 
inch high. The straight sides are best, because no trimming 
is required. 

For the cakes which are baked two or three inches thick, 
there are wood-framed square tins and also round tins made 
in one piece, with a large center tube, as well as rings of 
various sizes, made of heavy tin, in one piece. A number of 
rings of different diameter are used, which may be set on 
pans. There are also rings which open on the side, and which 
may be set to any diameter desired, a great convenience in 
making wedding and other cakes that are set together in tiers. 

TORTEN 

Queen Tart or Torte 

Three Vienna bottoms filled, one layer with strawberry 
jam, one layer with a filling of half almond paste and half 
currant jelly mixed together. The top is covered with a thin 
coating of marzipan and decorated with a white and chocolate 
butter cream, the sides being brushed with butter cream and 
finished with chopped nuts. 

Dresden Torte 

Three layers of Vienna or light sand cake mixture, flavored 
with grated rind of 2 oranges. When baked fill, and coat the 
top with currant jelly. Let stand for a while, then make a 
rather stiff macaroon mixture, and with bags and star tube 
make a lattice over the cake, and also a border. Then put a 
border of stiff paper around the cake, high enough to reach 
a little above the top, and set cake on a board in the oven to 
brown and bake the macaroon lattice and; border. When done 
fill a little more jelly into the spaces, and finish the center of 
each with firm water icing. Decorate the sides with chopped 
nuts or otherwise. 

Duchess Torte 

Three Vienna bottoms filled, one layer with vanilla cream, 
one layer with pink colored almond cream, the top covered 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



thinly with marzipan glaced with chocolate. Brush side over 
with apricot jam and sprinkle thickly with browned and 
chopped almonds; finish top in white butter cream; decorate 

with a few cherries. 

Mocha Torte 

Mo. 1 — Two or three Vienna bottoms, filled with coffee 
butter cream, glaced with coffee fondant or water icing. 

No. 2 — One bottom of Vienna mixture with almonds, two 
bottoms of meringue, spread first bottom with apricot mar- 
malade, meringue bottom with coffee cream, to which should 
be added some ground roasted filberts. Cover top and deco- 
rate with coffee butter cream, or glace with coffee fondant and 
decorate with butter cream. 

Torte Marguerite 

Make a filling of j | pound marzipan, j ( pound sugar 
rubbed fine with a little water, and mix with ' [ pound currant 
jelly. Fill three layers of Vienna or other mixture. Glace 
with pink, rose flavor, and decorate with white and pink- 
almond butter cream by filling both colors in bag with a small 
star tube, so that mixture comes out in white and pink. 

Torte Parisienne 

Bake three bottoms of French Gateau mixture, fill one 
layer with vanilla cream and nougat, and one layer with filling 
used for Torte Marguerite. Spread top with raspberry jam 
and cover with thin layer of marzipan. Finish with vanilla 
fondant and French fruit glaces. 

Torte a la Conde 

Use Chocolate Almond Cake Mixture (see above), baked 
in one thick layer. When cold cut in two layers, fill with 
apricot jam, and glace with chocolate. Top may be decorated 
in portion style, with sweetened whipped cream or with vanilla 
butter cream. 

Metropolitan Torte 

Bake two Vienna bottoms and one nut cake bottom. Fill 
with the Marguerite filling, mixed with roasted and crushed 

75 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



filberts. Place nut bottom in the center, and before filling 
soak well in diluted currant jelly. Finish top same as Torte 
Parisienne. 

Orange or Lemon Cream Torten 

These are made in many ways. A Vienna or sponge cake 
mixture is flavored with grated orange or lemon rind, and the 
torte is made up in two or three layers filled with orange or 
lemon cream, or orange-flavored almond paste, or butter cream, 
or with a combination of these fillings. Similar combinations 
are made by adding pineapple glaces or preserves, freshly 
grated cocoanut or candied orange peel. Flavor glacing with 
rind and fruit juice. 

Special Orange Torte 

Bake layers of French Gateau or Genoese mixture. Fill 
with orange or lemon butter, and on top of each layer use 
layer of thin slices of oranges from which the seeds and pith 
have been removed. Ice with orange-flavored fondant, and 
decorate with orange split in the natural sections and dipped 
in caramel sugar. Fruit glace, or both oranges and fruits, 
may be employed for decorations. 

Almond Torte 

Bake bottoms of nut cake mixture No. 2. Fill with almond 
cream, or diluted marzipan mixture, finish sides with chopped 
browned almonds, and decorate with almonds or fruit glaces. 

Macaroon Torte 

No. 1 — Make a bottom of fairly firm macaroon paste and 
dress in paper-lined tin. Make another bottom of the same 
paste, dressing it with bag and tube on wafer paper, or on a 
thin short paste bottom. Bake both nicely, spread one bottom 
with jam or butter cream, place the other layer on top after 
removing the paper, and decorate with chocolate or other icing. 

No. 2 — Bake a nicely executed top, dressed on paper with 
bags and star tube. Loosen paper by wetting the back. Bake 
one bottom of Vienna or Gateau mixture, fill with raspberry 
jam, and place the macaroon cover on top. Decorate with 
royal icing and fruit jelly. 

7G 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Chocolate Macaroon Torte 

Bake a bottom of short paste, and a top of macaroon paste 
with chocolate. Fill with a good fruit jam. place baked maca- 
roon layer on top, and decorate with jelly and royal icing-. 

Nut Torten 

These are baked in a two or three-inch-thick cake from 
the given nut cake mixtures, simply iced and sprinkled with 
nut meats. They are also baked in two or three layers, and 
filled with various kinds of almond or nut tilling. 

Nut Fillings 

No. 1 — 1 /: > pound nut paste or ground walnuts or filberts, 
1/2 pound of powdered sugar, mix smooth with sufficient 
water. 

No. 2 — 1 2 pound almond paste, ' ._> pound walnuts or 
roasted filberts, rubbed smooth with 1 pound sugar and water. 
These fillings, in conjunction with mocha cream, pastry cream 
and the fruit fillings, produce quite a variety of fillings for 
nut and macaroon torten. Chocolate, caramel or vanilla icings 
are most suitable with nut cakes. The decorations may consist 
of blanched almonds, walnuts or pecan halves, or filberts, 
dipped in caramel sugar, and French fruits may be added with 
royal icing to finish the torte. 

Meringue Torte 

Bake a fairly thick bottom with a border of almond short 
paste, or a plain short paste. Cover the baked bottom with 
raspberry or other good fruit jam. Make a meringue of y± 
pint egg whites, 1 pound powdered sugar. Put on a lattice or 
net work and a good border with bag and tube, dust with 
sugar, set on board and color nicely in the oven. 

French Macaroon Torte 

Proceed as for Meringue Torte. Bake and fill bottom. 
Make a firm fancy macaroon paste, put on a net work and 
border with star tube; set on board, and bake the macaroon 
cover to a nice golden color. While hot brush over with a 
syrup to glace, then finish with royal icing and jelly, or deco- 

77 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



rate macaroon top with cherry and angelica before baking, 
then glace and finish. 

Alliance Torte 

Bake three layers, using chocolate cake, almond cake, and 
short paste or a white layer cake. Put layers together with 
yellow apricot, lemon or orange on one layer, raspberry or 
strawberry on another. Cover top with a soft macaroon paste 
and put on a board, set in the oven to bake the macaroon paste. 
Then ice with fondant in three colors, strip or marble fashion. 

From the few samples it will be seen that many other 
fancy tart cakes may be made from fresh fruits in season, 
baking bottoms and borders, using fresh fruit fillings, with 
meringue or marshmallow or whipped cream tops, similiar to 
strawberry or raspberry shortcake. These cakes, if baked in 
slabs or thick sheets, may be made up into square cakes, or 
oblongs, frosted on top in one piece or sheet, cut in blocks and 
frosted on the sides, or finished with chopped nut meats as 
suggested. Chocolate cakes, white cakes, yellow cakes and 
spiced cakes may be thus put together in two or three layers. 
Some white mixtures may be colored pink, and cakes put to- 
gether in Neapolitan fashion. In fact, an endless variety may 
be created by the skillful baker. The lower-priced cake mix- 
tures may be used where the trade demands goods of medium 
quality. 



78 



V. MISCELLANEOUS CAKES 



KIM; OF CAKES— ROYAL CAKE 

These cakes are baked in round forms with a large center 
tube. The larger sizes are also linked in the large ring forms 
such as are used for butter sponge cake and sand torte. They 
may also be baked in the long tins used for cream breads. 
Several methods are used for mixing and finishing the baked 
cakes. The forms are greased and dusted with flour, or 
greased and sprinkled thickly with blanched and chopped 
almonds. When baked they may be left plain and sifted over 
with vanilla sugar, or they may be iced with fondant and 
sprinkled with nuts; or some fine cut cherries and nuts and 
peel may be mixed with the icing; or the cakes may be 
brushed over with apricot or currant jelly and covered with 
chopped nuts. The small cakes are sold by the piece, the large 
cut cakes by the pound. 

No. 1 — 1 1 J, pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 28 
eggs, separated, 1 pound bread flour, j - pound cornstarch, 3 
ounces sultanas, 2 ounces cherries, 2 ounces citron and orange 
peel chopped together. Flavor of mace and lemon. 

No. 2 — 25 eggs separated, V/\. pounds sugar, i/ 2 pound 
butter, l 1 i pounds bread flour, 12 ounces mixed fruit. 

No. 3 — 24 eggs, Vfe pounds sugar, V/\. pounds cake flour, 
6 ounces cornstarch, 9 ounces butter; flavor with grated rind 
of one orange, one lemon, and vanilla; 4 ounces sultanas, 4 
ounces walnuts, 4 ounces citron chopped and mixed with flour 
and starch. 

Method of Mixing: For No. 1 separate the eggs, cream 
lightly 1 pound sugar and butter, add the yolks by degrees, 
also the flavor. Sift flour and starch together. Beat egg 
whites light and beat in 14 pound sugar. Add half of the 
beaten whites to butter cream, mix lightly, and add half of 
the flour and starch, then draw in the other half of the beaten 
whites, and add carefully the rest of the flour mixed with the 
fruit. 

79 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



For Nos. 2 and 3 — Chop the hard butter in the cold flour 
in small bits, also add the finely cut fruit. Beat egg whites 
light and mix in the sugar as for meringue; mix yolks 
with flavor and lightly mix into the egg whites. Lastly 
draw in the mixed flour and starch containing fruits and 
butter, mix carefully, and fill into the greased and dusted 
forms. Bake in about 350 to 375 degrees Fahr. and finish as 
directed. 

Mocha Cream Cakes 

3 pounds standard powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 
quart yolks, 1% pints milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % pound 
cornstarch, 2Vfc ounces baking powder, the grated rind of one 
lemon. Cream butter light with 2 pounds cake flour, beat 
yolks with 2 pounds of sugar. Add flavor. Dissolve rest of 
sugar in milk ; sift rest of flour and starch with baking pow- 
der. Lightly mix flour cream with beaten eggs, add one-third 
of milk and mix again, add balance of milk, lastly starch and 
flour with baking powder, and mix fully. Bake in good heat, 
in sheets, blocks, layers or small individual cakes. 

A richer formula, which would also make an attractive 
mix for French pastry foundations, is as follows : 

Cream Layer Cake 

3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter and lard, 3%. pints eggs, 4 
pounds cake flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch, 1/2 ounce baking pow- 
der, vanilla flavor. Cream butter with 3 pounds flour and add 
flavor. Beat sugar into the eggs and add this in portions to 
creamed flour batter, then add remainder of flour and starch 
sifted with the baking powder. 

This formula requires no milk. 

The cakes may be put together with various flavored but- 
ter creams or mocha cream, made from V/% pounds icing 
sugar, creamed light with 1/2 pound of white butter, or nut 
butter and 2 egg whites, li/> ounces cornstarch. Sift half of 
the sugar with the starch, cream the other half light with 
butter, adding egg whites. Use egg beater or machine if mak- 
ing up large quantities. Flavor and color as desired. 

A large variety of these cakes may be made by the use of 

80 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



different flavors. Fruit jams and jelly make a good filling for 
mocha cream cakes. The sides may be finished with cream 
and nuts: border and center decorations may be made of the 
butter cream in various flavors, and centers of French fruit 

places, cherries and angelica are very attractive. 

By baking the cakes in pans and frames, allowing aboul 
1 1 j inches in thickness when baked, nice squares and other 
small block cakes may be made to be cut and filled, slices or 

l»ars may be made with the long Strips of cakes, which should 

be about i ' - inches wide; have a border of butter cream on 
each side, filling the center strip with jam or different Havered 

creams, then cut in bars, lising a Sharp knife dipped in hot 

water. Or the sheets may be cut in rounds or ovals, the I ' -- 
inch strips in squares or diamond shaped. Then the sides 
may be masked with cream, apricot jam or jelly, and rolled 
in lightly browned cocoanut or almonds. The tops may be 
decorated in various flavors and colors with butter cream, 
using a small star tube; candied fruits and half walnuts or 
pecans, or split almonds, may be placed on the iced tops. A 
little experience and skill will produce quite a wide variety of 
these large and small fancy cakes. 

Chocolate .Mocha Cake 

2 pounds powdered sugar, l pound 6 ounces butter, I pinl 
eggs, 1 2 pint yolks, 1 pint strong black coffee, 2' g pounds cake 
flour. ' 2 pound cornstarch, 1 ' •_ ounces baking powder, 5 ounces 
melted chocolate, 4 to 6 ounces ground walnuts. 

Method — Cream sugar and butter lightly, add some of the 
eggs, then add the melted chocolate, and the remaining eggs 
by degrees, then add the black coffee, lastly the flour sifted 
with baking powder. Mix fully and make up in layer cakes. 
For filling take 1 quart of strong black coffee, 10 ounces sugar, 
8 yolks, 3 ounces cornstarch, 2 ounces butter. Set coffee, sugar 
and butter to boil, mix yolks and starch together, take some 
of the mixture before it boils and beat in the yolks and starch, 
and when it boils pour in the starch and yolks, stir and let 
thicken and take off the fire. Some chopped walnuts or 
browned and crusted almonds may be used in this cream. 
Cakes may be made in two or three layers, filled, then iced with 

81 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



vanilla, caramel, coffee flavored fondant, chocolate or mocha 
butter cream, and decorated with halves of pecans or walnuts 
with chopped nuts. 

Devil's Food Cake 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, 18 eggs, 12 
ounces melted chocolate, 1 ounce cinnamon, 3 pints milk, 4 
pounds cake flour, 3 ounces baking powder. Mix like other 
cake, adding chocolate last, and mix well. 

No. 2 — 314 pounds sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces shortening, 1 
pound chocolate, 1 pint yolks, 1 quart buttermilk, 1 quart 
sweet milk, 114 ounces soda, 3V-> pounds bread flour; vanilla 
flavor. 

Method — Put sweet milk and chocolate in the oven to melt, 
stir and add 1 pound of the sugar, dissolve and let cool, adding 
buttermilk. Cream 2 l /o pounds sugar lightly with shortening, 
soda and eggs, add flavor, then chocolate, mix again, and add 
the flour. Mix well. Bake in medium heat in layers or blocks, 
put together with marshmallow, ice with chocolate and sprinkle 
with chopped nuts. The cakes are improved by adding from 
4 to 8 ounces ground nut meats. 

Tutti Frutti Cake — Prince Henry Layer Cake 

2y 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint yolks, % pint 
molasses, 1 ounce soda, IV2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 quart 
milk, IV2 ounces mixed spice, 6 ounces currants, 6 ounces 
sultanas, 6 ounces candied orange and lemon peel, 6 ounces 
citron chopped very fine, 3V-2 pounds bread flour. Cream 
sugar, eggs, shortening, spices and soda add the milk and the 
finely chopped fruit, then flour sifted with the cream of tartar. 
Bake in medium oven. For layer cakes fill with maple-flavored 
cream or butter cream or marshmallow; ice with caramel, 
coffee or maple icing, sprinkle with chopped nuts. Double 
mixture makes six blocks 111/^x18x11/^ inches, wood frame put 
together as suggested. Each block makes ten cuts. 

Florence Cake, White or Yellow 
314 pounds powdered sugar, 114 pounds butter, 1*4 quarts 



egg whites, 1 quart milk, 3 pounds 9 ounces cake flour, 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Ounce cream of tartar. », ounce- soda; vanilla flavor. Sift 
cream of tartar with flour. Cream 2' j pounds sugar with 
butter, beat whites stiff, add 1 pound sugar, mix with butter 
cream, add milk and soda, also flavor, then fold in the flour. 

For yellow mixture, take 1' , quarts whole eggs, use flour, 
butter or butter cream method of mixing. Bake in medium 
heat. 350 degrees Fahr. 

Lady Baltimore Cake 

Use white Florence cakes or other white layer cake mix- 
ture, flavor with rose water. Fill and frost with marshmallow 
or boiled icing mixed with finely shredded nuts and preserved 
figs or mixed fruit and nuts. Make up in two or three layers. 

Grand Duchess Cake Pilling 

Mix even parts of finely chopped seeded raisins, figs, citron, 
walnuts and blanched almonds into a boiled icing or in fondant 
icing flavored with orange juice. Fill into white layer cakes. 
Frost top with vanilla fondant and decorate with perfect 
halves of nuts. 

White Duchess Cake, Silver Cake, Marble Cake 

1 pound 4 ounces powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint 
egg white, 1 pint milk, 2' r pounds cake flour, V/* ounces 
baking powder. Mix as usual. Bake in 1-pound bread tins, 
or in paper-lined round tins. For marble cake leave out V2 
ounce baking powder and color a part of the white mixture 
in separate bowl with melted chocolate or cocoa, adding a 
little milk. Spread some of the chocolate over a thin layer 
of white mixture in bowl, cover with another thin layer of 
white, again chocolate and white in alternating colors, now 
fill mixture carefully in paper-lined bread tins, or in small 
square wood-lined tins or round angel cake tins, paper lined. 
Ice in white with chocolate stripes or chocolate with white 
stripes, marble fashion. 

To produce a tri-colored marble cake a part of the white 
mixture may be colored a delicate pink, alternating with white 
and chocolate. Marble icing is very simply done; the cake is 
first iced in white or chocolate and finished with chocolate, 

83 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



white or pink stripes. The icing and striping must be done 
quickly, while the icing is soft, so the stripes and body run 
smooth together. Fill some of the icing used for stripes in a 
paper cornet and cut off the point, then ice the cake with the 
opposite colored icing. For round cakes draw circular or spiral 
lines over the iced cake with opposite color, for square cakes 
draw straight lines with the icing an even distance apart. 
Then draw the back of a knife in right angles across the lines, 
first from one side in even distance apart ; then draw the knife 
between these lines from the opposite side. This produces 
the effects given in the illustration. 

CAKES ILLUSTRATED 

Use French Gateau mixture or Genoa Cake mixture (see 
page 68), or White Cake, Almond Cake, Marble Cake mixture 
(page 28). Bake in 2-inch-thick sheets or slabs. 

No. 1, Walnut Cake 

Cut two pieces of cake in 6-inch squares. Put together 
with vanilla-flavored butter cream mixed with crushed wal- 
nuts; mask sides with apricot jam and roll in chopped browned 
almonds. Ice top with white icing, put border of butter cream 
around edges, and finish top with perfect halves of walnuts. 

No. 2, Coffee or Chocolate Cake 

The same as for walnut cake, put together with coffee or 
chocolate flavored cream. Ice fully on top and sides with 
coffee or chocolate-flavored fondant, then finish top and sides 
neatly with royal icing or cream icing. Set on lace paper. 

No. 3, Rose Cake, Strawberry or Raspberry Cake 

Cut as for walnut cake, and put together with a rose- 
flavored or fruit-flavored cream, adding a little pink color. 
Mask sides with hot apricot jam. Then mask sides with white 
vanilla wafers or cats' tongues (see page 162), made of proper 
size, and put around to reach about a half inch over the top ; 
tie with pink ribbon. Ice top with pink fondant. Decorate 
center with a wreath of roses made from pink-colored butter 
cream. 

84 



CAKKS I-OK P.AKKKS 



No. 1. Battenberg Cake 

Have some of the cake mixture colored pink, leave balance 
of cake yellow. When cool cut in about l-ineh squares, \~ 
inches long, and place them tog-ether in alternating colors 
with apricot jam. Then roll out a sheet of almond paste (See 
page 112. Marzipan Paste for Cake Covering), about one- 
quarter inch thick, place the cake over it after covering it 
with jam to make it stick, roll the cake up in the paste, making 
sides neat and flat and hide the joining of the sheet. The 
cake may be left plain, or the edges pinched and crimped, or 
the top may be finished oil' with fondant icing and other dec- 
orations. 




No. 5, Mocha and Rose Cake, Princess Cake 

Proceed as for walnut cake. Fill with coffee-flavored 
cream, mask sides with jam, set sides with white vanilla 
wafers and tie with pink ribbon. Then decorate top, half with 
coffee-colored cream, the other with pink-colored cream, using 
bag and small star tube, as shown in illustration. 

No. 6, Tennis Cake 

Use Genoa cake with fruit (page 68), add 12 ounces 
cherries, 4 ounces citron, 4 ounces angelica. Bake in ob- 
long tins holding about 1 pound 2 ounces each. After bak- 
ing cut top even and lay a square piece of rolled-out almond 
paste on top, which should be about l/jj inch thick. Put 

85 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



a border of pink cream around, icing center a pale green. 
Finish center with diamond and write the word Tennis in 
center. These cakes may be made simple or more elaborate, 
as price obtained permits. 

No. 7, Decorated Layer Cake, Almond Paste Decoration 

These two cakes may be made from any good layer cake 
formula in two or three layers, and put together with various 
fruit jams. The almond paste used for decorating sides and 
top may be made like the fancy macaroon paste as given on 
page 110, using whole eggs in the place of egg whites. Make 
the paste of piping consistency and use bag and star tube, 
piping straight lines up on the sides close together. Finish 
the top with designs as fancy suggests in lattice or scroll 
fashion. Set the cakes on boards and brown slightly in the 
oven, then finish with different colors in fondant. 




No. 8, Decorated Shortbreads 

For formulas see page 151. Weigh into 2-pound pieces, 
roll out and pinch up as shown. When baked decorate with 
royal icing or with candied French fruit glaces. 

Walnut and Nougat Cakes 

Prepare walnut cake as given (see No. 1, Walnut Cake). 
For nougat cake, use formula for French Gateaux mixture 
(page 68, No. 2), adding 4 ounces of almond paste to mix- 
ture, creaming it in with the butter. Add 14 ounce baking 
powder to the flour. Cut the baked cake in suitable sizes, 
split, and fill with almond butter cream (see page 249). 



CAKES FOR RAKERS 



[ce tops with light chocolate-flavored fondant or white 

icing, and mask sides with browned chopped almonds, cocoa- 
nut or walnuts. When icing IS set decorate top with border 
in two colors of butter cream and pipe the word Nougat in 
the center. Finish with a scroll. The designs may he varied 
as fancy Buggi 

Combination Layer Cake 

Two white layers and one layer of chocolate cake or 
devil's food cake arc put together with chocolate or marsh- 
mallow. Ice with boiled icing, and decorate with hakes of 
walnuts on top and sides. 

ASSORTED NUT CAKES 

Quite a variety of nut cakes may he made from white or 
yellow mixtures given. The sizes must be arranged as re- 
quired. Various sizes of round tins with center tube, small 
loaf cake tins, may be used for individual cakes sold by the 
piece; long bread tins may be used for cakes sold by the cut 
or slice, or the cakes may be baked in wood-framed tins and 
baked in slabs, or two slabs may be put together and sold by 
the cut. 

Black Walnut Cakes, English Walnut Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 10 eggs, 1 pint milk, 2% 
pounds cake flour, 3 ounces ground walnuts, 2 ounces baking 
powder, flavor of mace and vanilla. Mix as usual, bake in 
wood-lined and papered pans. A size of pan 121/2x20x114 
inches, lined with ho-inch wood frame, makes 2'/> cakes; the 
mixture of 8 pounds of sugar produces 10 slabs of this size; 
two slabs put together with marshmallow, iced with vanilla, 
with nuts sprinkled on top, makes 10 cuts 534x3% inches. 

Pistachio Nut Cake 

Use white Florence cake mixture, flavor orange, add 2 
ounces of blanched and cut pistachios for one-fourth of mix- 
ture; bake in greased and dusted angel cake tins. Ice a deli- 
cate green, flavor with pistachio. 

87 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 






HOW TO DO MARBLE ICING 

88 



TAKES FOR BAKERS 



Brazilian Nut Cake 

Use any good white or yellow mixture, add 1 ounce finely 
cut Brazil nuts to each pound of mixture; bake in papered 
square or oval tins, or use tins with a center tube. Ice with 
rose flavored pink icing, mixed with a few shredded nuts. 

Pecan Nut Cake, Walnut Cake 

Bake in sheets or in frames like black walnut cake, put 
together with almond cream filling or soft almond paste tilling - . 
Cut with sharp knife in large squares or diamonds. The top 
may be frosted with white vanilla or fondant, decorated with 
perfect halves, the sides finished with fine cut nut meats, or 
nuts may be used for a border and the center finished with 
the nuts by which the cake is known, such as pecan, walnut, 
filbert, etc. Sultanas, finely cut orange or citron peel, may 
be added with the nut meats; this forms another pleasing 
variety. 

The nut cakes may be made up in Neapolitan fashion, 
using chocolate, pink and white layers, adding nut meats to 
fillings and icings. The cake may also be baked in sheets, 
three sheets put together iced only on top and sprinkled with 
chopped nuts, then cut in squares. The small individual cakes 
may be finished in chocolate, caramel, vanilla or coffee; all 
these flavors go nicely with nut cake. Some of these cakes are 
known as Victoria, Princess, Duchess or Florence Nut Cakes. 

G old en Rod Cakes 

No. 1 — Cream 1'4 pounds sugar light with l'/o pounds 
shortening. Beat l 1 /? pints yolks with 1 pound sugar, add 
grated rind of orange. Add eggs to sugar and butter cream, 
mix lightly, then add 1 quart milk, and lastly o x /± pounds cake 
flour sifted with 2 ounces baking powder. Fill in greased and 
dusted goldenrod tins and bake in medium heat. Mixture 
makes 20 cakes. Use the grated rind of orange, half orange 
juice, half water, and mix with icing sugar to make soft, trans- 
parent icing. i'*l3i 

No. 2 — IV2 pounds butter and lard, 2*4 pounds sugar, 14 
eggs, 1 pint milk, 3!/2 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces baking 
powder. Will make 1 dozen cakes. 

89 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Lunch Cup Cakes 

3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 15 eggs, 1 quart milk, 
41/2 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda, 
12 ounces seedless raisins. Mixture makes 11 to 12 dozen 
large cups. Grease molds rather heavily to make a flat top. 
Bake in 325 to 340 degrees Fahr. Frost with orange icing. 

Orange Cup Cake — Small Individual Cakes 

214 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, salt, % pint 
yolks, IV2 pints milk, 314 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces baking 
powder, the grated rind of orange. Mix as usual, bake in 
cups or in paper lined round or oval tins, small angel cake 
tins, etc. 

Vanilla Cup Cakes 

No. 1 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 10 eggs, 1 
quart milk, 4 pounds flour, 4 ounces baking powder, vanilla 
flavor. Mix makes 12 dozen. 

No. 2 — V/2 pounds sugar, 1/2 pound lard, 4 eggs, 2 1 /-) pounds 
flour, IV2 pints milk, 2 ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. 
Mix makes 8 dozen cups. Both mixtures may be made in small 
loaf cakes or layer cakes. 

Chocolate Cup Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, 1/2 pound shortening, 10 eggs, IV2 pints 
milk, 4 ounces powdered cocoa or melted chocolate, vanilla or 
spice flavor, 2y 2 pounds cake flour, li/> ounces baking powder. 
Makes about 9 dozen cup cakes. 

Jellied Cup Cakes — Spiced Cups 

1 pound sugar, 1 pound compound, 1 pound jelly, creamed 
together; add IV2 pints eggs in small portions, add 1 ounce 
cinnamon, IV2 pints molasses, 11/2 pints milk, 3% pounds cake 
flour sifted with 2 ounces baking powder. Bake in fairly 
good heat in well-greased cup cake forms. Vanilla icing. 

Spice Cup Cakes 

1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, salt, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart 
water, 1 ounce soda dissolved in water, 1 ounce mixed spices, 
4 pounds cake flour. Mix like gingerbread and bake in cups. 

90 



CAKKS l-Oi; T.AKKKS 



Spice (up Cakes with Crumbs 

1 1 -2 pounds sugar, l j •_• pounds shortening-, 10 eggs, 2 quarts 
molasses. 2 quarts water. 3 pounds cake crumbs, l'-j ounces 
soda, 3 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ( - ounces cloves, 1V& ounces 
cinnamon, 6Vfc pounds cake flour. Soak crumbs in water and 
dissolve soda Rub sugar, lard and spices together, add eggs 
and molasses, then water with crumbs and soda, then add flour 
and mix smooth. Drop in well greased tins. Bake in 350 to 
375 degrees. Mixture makes 21 dozen. 

For spiced fruit cup cakes 1 pound or more of ground rais- 
ins may be added. Chocolate or cocoa adds to flavor. 

Drop Cakes 

No. 1 — 2 pounds sugar. 1 pound shortening, • \, ounce salt, 
1 pint eggs, 1 quart milk. 3 pounds cake flour sifted with 2'/o 
ounces baking powder. 

No. 2 — 4 pounds sugar, l 1 i pounds compound, salt. 1 pint 
eggs, 1 quart milk, l 1 ( ounces ammonia, ' o ounce soda dis- 
solved in milk, 1 pounds cake flour, 1 pound bread flour. Mix 
like cup cake and drop on well greased and flour dusted pans; 
bake in good oven. 

Sponge Drop Cakes 

1 pound sugar, V/% pounds cake flour, l'/j. ounces baking 
powder, sifted together; put in bowl and make a bay, add 
5 eggs, % pint of milk and 2 ounces melted butter, vanilla 
flavor. Mix well together and dress with bag and plain tube 
on greased and dusted pans, and bake in medium heat. When 
cool ice bottom of drops in white, pink or in chocolate. A 
warm marshmallow filling may be used, colored as desired, and 
shredded cocoanut sprinkled on icing wdiile soft. 

GINGERBREADS, MOLASSES CAKES 

Good grades of molasses are rich in sugar. When using 
molasses in the bakery, as a rule it is dipped out from the top 
of the barrel, because it is too slow work to draw it from the 
faucet. When standing in the barrel, the sugar is apt to go 
to the bottom, making this part richer in sugar than the top 
part of the syrup. The richer part of the syrup should be 

91 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



reduced, or less sugar should be used if the formula contains 
other sugar, otherwise the formula becomes unbalanced, and 
the excess of sugar causes the cakes to rise and fall in the 
oven, or become coarse in texture. Rich molasses cake re- 
quires careful baking in moderate heat, and in baking the 
cakes must not be jarred or moved until set. Soft flours should 
be used, and ginger breads can be made very popular by using 
good grades of sugar and butter and good neutral fats instead 
of strong lard. 

The flavor of ginger alone is not very popular, and some 
grades leave a very bitter taste. A spice mixture containing 
5 parts ginger, 5 parts cinnamon, 5 parts allspice, 3 parts 
cloves, 2 parts mace or nutmeg, is a good one to use ; 2 parts 
of coriander or cardamom may be added if this flavor is 
desired. The spices should be mixed and kept on hand. 

Baking soda (carbonate of soda) is used, and is best dis- 
solved in milk or water. A slight addition of salt is desirable 
with neutral fats. 

Large slabs are best baked in frames. It helps to make the 
cakes bake up evenly. Ovens which hold strong bottom heat 
are apt to burn the cakes on the bottom, which should be well 
protected with strong paper. In storing the baked cakes, as 
they are apt to soften they should not be piled together with- 
out double papers between to prevent loss by having them 
stick together. 

Southern Gingerbread 

No. 1 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, 1 quart 
molasses, i/J. ounce salt, 8 eggs, 1 pint milk, 1 ounce soda, 3V4 
pounds soft flour, %. ounce mixed spice or Y> ounce allspice, 
Vi, ounce ginger. 

No. 2 — % pound brown sugar, % pound shortening, salt, 
V/z ounces mixed spice, 4 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart milk, 
1 ounce soda, 4 pounds cake flour. 

Rub sugar, shortening, soda and spices together, add mo- 
lasses and mix well, add milk and flour and mix smooth. 
Mixture will fill pan 18x25 inches, set in wood frame 3 inches 
high, pan and frame greased and paper-lined. 

92 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Eggless Gingerbread 

NO. 1 — ■"■ | pound sugar, ;l | pound shortening - , salt, l'o 
quarts molasses, 1 • o quarts water or milk, 2 ounces soda, 1 to 
1 j -j ounces mixed spices, 5 pounds cake Hour. This mixture 
may also be baked in cup cake forms and a few currants or 
sultanas may be added or sprinkled on top. Ice or leave plain. 

Eggless Gingerbread with Crumbs 

No. 2 — 2 pounds brown sugar, l'o pounds compound, 1 
ounce salt, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ' -j ounces mixed spice, 1 quart 
molasses, 1 quart or more milk, 3 ounces soda. 2 pounds cake 
crumbs, 6 pounds cake flour. Soak crumbs in milk. Rub 
shortening, sugar, soda and spices together, add molasses, then 
milk with crumbs, and lastly the flour. This makes a rather 
firm mixture, which may Ik- put on tloui -dusted table, scaled 
in papered pound loaf tins. Rattened and washed with egg or 
with syrup. Bake in about 300 degrees Fahr. Frost or leave 
plain. 

Loaf Gingerbread 

2'/i. quarts molasses, mixed with 6 eggs; add lf/j. pounds 
melted shortening; take 1 ( g quarts of water, add 21/j, ounces 
soda, % ounce salt, then add 6 pounds soft flour mixed with 
1 ounce ginger, % ounce mixed spices. Bake in 1 pound bread 
tins, greased and paper-lined. Makes 16 loaves. 

High Grade Ginger Cakes — Ginger Pound Cake 

3% pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 pound compound, 3% 
pints eggs, 1 pint milk, 3 pounds of preserved ginger cut in 
chips, i/o ounce ginger, 14 ounce mace, l'/i ounces cream of 
tartar, % ounce soda, 5*4 pounds cake flour. Cream sugar, 
spices, butter and eggs, add milk with soda, then flour sifted 
with cream of tartar; when partly mixed add the ginger, 
finely cut ; then scale out in small tins and bake in pound cake 
heat. 

Raisin Gingerbread 

l 1 /^ pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, 1 quart eggs, 1 
quart molasses, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed spices, 1 ounce 

93 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



soda, 1/2 pint milk, 3 pounds sultana raisins, 4 pounds cake 
flour. Bake in small pound loaf tins lined with paper. 

Molasses Fruit Loaf 

3 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds lard, 15 eggs, 3 quarts mo- 
lasses, 3 pints water, 1 ounce salt, 6 ounces soda, 3 ounces 
mixed spice, 2V2 pounds mixed fruit, raisins, citron, lemon and 
orange peel, finely cut; V2 pound cocoanut or nutmeats may- 
be added; 12 pounds cake flour. Fruit and eggs may be re- 
duced for a low-price cake, more water or milk used if flour 
is strong. Mixture may be used for layer cake, slab cake, 
small loaf cake or cup cakes, in fact any size cakes may be 
made. A spiced fruit cake, iced with chocolate and made 
up with white strips, marble fashion, is a good seller. 

Spiced Molasses Cup Cake with Crumbs 

21/2 pounds cake crumbs, 2 pounds flour, 1 quart molasses, 
114 quarts milk or water, IV2 ounces cloves and cinnamon, 2 
ounces baking soda dissolved in water. Soak crumbs in water, 
mix with molasses, spices and flour. Fill in well greased cups 
and bake in medium heat. Ice cup cakes with chocolate. 

Crumb Layer Cakes 

No. 1 — % pound sugar, 1/2 pound lard, 1 ounce mixed 
spices, 1/2 ounce soda, 8 eggs, 12 ounces mixed fruit chopped 
fine, 2 pounds cake crumbs, IV2 pounds cake flour, sufficient 
milk to mix. Bake in greased and papered layer tins. Put 
layers together with chocolate or cream fillings or marsh- 
mallow. Ice with chocolate or caramel, and sprinkle with a 
few chopped nuts. 

No. 2 — 1/2 pound brown sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 10 
eggs, 1 quart molasses, 2 quarts milk, 31/2 pounds cake crumbs, 
5 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces mixed spices, 1 ounce 
salt, 2 pounds chopped raisins. Bake in layers or large sheets, 
put together with jellies or marshmallow, ice and cut in bars 
or in squares. This cake improves when a day old. 

Oriental Fruit Crumb Cake 

Line round or square cake tins with a plain short paste, and 
fill about 1 inch deep with this filling: 4 pounds crumbs, 1 

94 



C \Ki:> FOR BAKERS 

pound ground almonds or other nutmeats, l pound seeded 
raisins, • . 2 pound chopped citron. Cream ' •_• pounds sugar 
an»l ' - pound shortening together, add l ' •_■ pints eggs, add 
fruit and crumbs and a little milk. Bake like cake. When 

cold ice with vanilla water icing. 

Crumb Tail Cake Fillings 

No. l l pound sugar, l pound shortening, l pound eggs, 
l pound cake crumbs, - ounces ground almonds, lemon and 
almond flavor; a little milk to mix. 

No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, l pound butter, l pint eggs, l ' j 
pounds crumbs, :: , pint milk; lemon or mace flavor. Choco- 
late or nutmeats may be used. Bake in sheets in pan lined 

with tart paste or in small tart forms. By using various icings 

and flavors a variety of fancy crumb cakes may be made. 
Molasses Crumb Cake — Washington Cake 

Soak ."> pounds crumbs in 5 quarts water, add 1 ounces 
soda, l quart molasses, ' - pound oil or melted lard. ( g ounce 
salt. I 1 - ounces mixed spices. 3 pounds mixed fruit ground 
fine; then add 7 pounds cake Hour and mix well. Bake in 
large slabs, or in pans lined with a thin rolled pie crust. Ice 
and cut in squares. 

Chop Suey Cake 

No. 1 — 5 pounds cake crumbs, •">' ( pounds flour, 1U quarts 
molasses. 3 quarts water, I ounces soda, l/fc pound chopped 
nutmeats, 1 pound mince meat. 1 pound brown sugar, % 
pound shortening - . 

Chop Suey or Tutti Frutti Cakes 

No. 2 — l'/o pounds brown sugar, % pound lard, 1 quart 
molasses, 10 eggs, 1 ounce mixed spice, 3 pounds cake crumbs 
soaked in 5 pints water, 2\o ounces soda dissolved in 1 pint of 
water, 4 pounds cake flour, 1 pound or less of chopped nut- 
meats, 1 pound seedless raisins. Mix like other crumb cake, 
bake in large pans greased and dusted, or lined with tart or 
pie paste, or in muffin cups. 

Mixture No. 2 is also baked in oval rings, which should be 

95 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



well greased and dusted with flour, set on a well greased pan. 
Use a size of oval ring 3V& inches long and IV2 inches wide, 
1 inch high. Mixture makes thirteen dozen cakes. 

Crumb Cake, Fruit or Cup Cake 

% pound cake crumbs, % pound compound, 114 quarts 
molasses, 1 quart water, 2 eggs (may be omitted), 1 ounce 
soda, 1 pound small raisins or currants, 31/2 pounds flour, cin- 
namon, vanilla or lemon and a little vinegar. This may be 
baked in sheets. For fruit and cup cake add a little more flour. 

WINE CAKE MIXTURES 

No. 1 — 6 pounds sugar, 3^ pounds shortening, 2 quarts 
eggs, salt, 2 quarts milk, 9Vk pounds cake flour, 6 ounces 
baking powder, flavor of mace, lemon or vanilla. 

No. 2 — 4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 1 ounce salt, 
1 quart eggs, 2 quarts milk, 6 1 /2 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces 
baking powder. 

No. 3 — 5 pounds sugar, 2V2 pounds shortening, salt, 3 pints 
eggs, 2 quarts milk, 8 pounds cake flour, 4 ounces baking 
powder. 

No. 4 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 8 eggs, 3 pints 
milk, 5 pounds flour, 4 ounces baking powder. 

Wine cake mixtures may be used for larger block cake and 
mixed by either method of mixing. They are also made in 
small loaf tins, baked in papered pound-loaf tins. 

Layer Cakes 

No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, H/4. pounds butter and 
compound, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 pounds flour, 3 ounces 
baking powder. 

No. 2 — 10 pounds sugar, half powdered, half granulated, 4 
pounds compound, IV2 ounces salt, 1 pint yolks, 2 quarts whole 
eggs, 3 quarts milk, vanilla flavor, 3 pounds bread flour, 8 
pounds cake flour, 10 ounces baking powder (made from cream 
powder and soda). Mix like other cakes, beat up light in the 
final mixing. Mix makes 63 9-ounce layers or 21 3-layer cakes. 

96 



C AKES I OR BAKERS 

^ cllow slab Cake 

I — Seven and one-half pounds sugar, •". pounds shorten- 
ing, 1 1 - ounces Bait, 2 quarts mixed eggs, _' j quarts milk. 
2 pounds bread Hour, 6 pounds cake il<>ur. 7 ' - ounces baking 
powder. Makes six pans L9x25xl. By adding 8 ounces 
melted chocolate i" one-third <>f mixture, and placing three 
sheets together, chocolate layer in center, mixture may be 
used for Neapolitan blocks. Jelly, cream, marshmallow or 
other combinations may be used for filling. Prost top plain 
white, or Bprinkle with a few nuts or cocoanul ; rut each 

block in IS cuts. 

Low Priced bellow Layer Cakes 

No. l Seven pounds sugar, l 1 - pounds shortening, l 
quart eggs, 2 quarts milk. 8Vfc pounds cake flour, 8 ounces 
baiting powder. 

Sponge Layer Cake, Sponge Roll 

No. 2 — Rub l pounds sifted light brown sugar with l 
quart eggs and beat well, then add ."» pints of milk, ti'-j pounds 
cake (lour sifted with '"> ounces baking powder. Bake in well- 
greased papered tins dusted with Hour. This mixture may 
also be used for a plain jelly roll, rolled while hot. 

Formula for Loaf Cake, Wine Cake. Layer Cake, 
Cup Cake 

Three pounds sugar, 1 1 g pounds butter and lard, 1 \ % ounces 
salt, 1 ' o pints (15) eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 Co pounds cake 
flour, 3 ounces baking powder, flavoring mace or vanilla. Mix 
as usual. To bake several kinds of cake from same mixture, 
mix and put large cake in oven first with damper open, next 
the layers, then drop out the cup cakes, put in the oven and 
shut dampers. With an oven heat of 350 to 400 degrees and 
a little practice the variety of cakes may be baked in the 
same baking heat by using the damper and oven door for 
regulating. Close watching and practice make for success. 

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE 

Shortcakes may be made in large sheets, using the ordi- 
nary size baking pans, and two thin sheets, when baked, may 

97 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



be put together with a thin layer of meringue or marshmallow 
covered with berries. The bottom layer is best made a little 
thicker, so the juice of the fruit does not soak quite through. 
Sometimes another layer of berries is put on the top sheet 
and covered with meringue and cut in squares or portions, 
where the price can be obtained ; but the top is usually left 
plain or covered with a little sugar or meringue, and a good 
size berry is put in the center of each portion for decoration. 
The various sizes of layer cake tins are also used. The layers 
may be baked thick and split in halves, or two thin layers 
may be put together with berries between them. Two or 
three layers are thus put together, and prices are charged 
accordingly. The cakes may be sold by the piece or slice. 
If berries are high priced, more meringue or marshmallow 
and less berries may be used; large berries are best cut in 
halves. 

Some bakers make a single sheet, rather thick, cover this 
with a thin layer of meringue, berries on top of meringue, 
and put a lattice of meringue over the berries, or put a full 
layer of meringue on top of berries. Dust with sugar, set 
pan on thick board, and let brown in the oven. If divided in 
portions or cuts a ring of meringue may be placed in the 
center of each portion, and after baking a good-looking berry 
is placed in this ring for decoration. 

These cakes may be made from any plain sponge or sheet 
cake mixture. Other shortcakes are made similar to a rich 
tea-biscuit mixture, which is very popular. 

Progressive bakers use other fresh fruits, ripe peaches 
raspberries, blackberries, also preserved sliced peaches, for 
special cakes. Meringues may be made by covering a baked 
sheet of cakes with jelly or preserves, cover this with a thin 
layer of pastry cream and top off with a lattice or a full 
layer of meringue which may be cut in portions in similar 
fashion suggested for strawberry shortcakes. This makes a 
fine selling line of cakes for the bakery lunchroom. 

Shortcake — Biscuit Mixture 

No. 1 — Rub 1/2 pound butter, % pound sugar and 1/2 pint 
eggs together, add 1 quart milk, and 4 pounds cake flour sifted 



I AKES K'i; BAKERS 

with I ounces baking powder. Blake up in layers «>r sheets 

sired. 

No. 2 — Two and one-fourth pounds sugar, l ' _» pounds 

butter, 12 eggs, a good pint of milk, 3 pounds cake flour, 

l ounce baking powder. Bake in layers or sheets and finish 

as directed. 

Lincoln or Washington Crumb Cakes or Pie 

Take 5 pounds crumbs, half roll, half cake crumbs, soak in 
-1 quarts water and break up good; add l pint molasses. 

5 pounds seeded raisins, and ."» to I ounces mixed spices. Let 
this soak over night. Roll out a bottom from pie crust and 
put in cake pan with high rims. L8x25x2. Fill in the mix- 
ture and cover with a layer of top crust. Prick with fork. 
.'. ash and bake in medium own for 15 to 50 minutes. Cut 
in squares when cold. 

Low-Priced Cakes for Larue Institutions 

Twenty-five pounds sugar, L0 pounds lard, 1 gallon con- 
densed milk, ."i'-j gallons water (or I ( 2 gallons sweet milk), 
48 pounds flour, :'> pounds baking powder, 2 pounds jelly. 
The jelly is added to keep cakes moist. Mix may be used for 
sheet cake or cup cakes. 

Low-Priced Jelly Roll, Bowl Mixture 

Four pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs or yolks, 2 quarts milk, 
4 to 6 ounces melted lard, 6 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces baking 
powder. Flavor as desired. Mix makes four thick rolls. Bake 
in not too hot oven. Roll while hot. 

Low-Priced Fruit Cake 

Two quarts water, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 pound shorten- 
ing, 21/2 pounds raisins, 4 pounds bread flour, '/2 pint molasses, 
cinnamon, ginger, allspice. Cook water, shortening and 
raisins, let cool, then add flour, spices and molasses. Bake in 
small single bread pans in medium oven. Makes 20 small 
cakes. 



99 



VI. MAKING PASTES 



The making of a perfect puff paste is an art which may 
only be learned by close observation and constant practice. 
The materials should be cold and the paste should be worked 
up in a cool place. The butter or other fats used should be 
tough and free from salt. Very salty butter should be 
rubbed in cold water to remove the salt and the water should 
be kneaded out. Dough and butter should be of the same 
consistency. If a softer variety of butter is used, the dough 
should be in harmony with the butter. The flour should be 
a good first patent spring or hard winter wheat flour or a 
blend of one-third cake flour, two-thirds bread flour. A strong 
flour adds to the keeping qualities, but if too strong a blend 
of soft and hard flour is preferable. The addition of one 
egg for each pound of flour adds to the lifting power, and 
by adding a little cream of tartar, or vinegar, the gluten 
becomes more elastic, which is said to improve the paste. 
Salt in the butter retards, prevents the puff paste from rising 
high in baking, but a little salt added to dough, especially 
when using a neutral fat, adds to the flavor. 

A special pastry butterine is made by different firms which 
is ideal for making puff paste, but as this product lacks the 
flavor of butter, some butter should be used to supply the 
lack. In places where large quantities of pastry are made 
it is the practice to mix butter and pastry butterine together 
in various proportions in the cake machine or dough mixer 
and use this blend in the making of puff paste, pie paste and 
Swedish or Danish pastries as required. For the high-grade 
puff paste, it is usual to take one pound of butter for each 
pound of flour. But it has been found that less butter pro- 
duces a less frail structure, which is not so easily broken. 
Fourteen ounces of butter, or even less when using butterine 
only (which is richer in fat), makes a slightly less rich paste, 
but the rolling in of the butter is more easily accomplished 
and the same lightness is produced. 

100 



I AKES FDR BAKERS 



PUFF PASTES 

No. L — A pounds dour, •"»'- pounds Gutter, 2 to 1 eggs, 
1 - ounce cream of tartar or the juice of one lemon, a scant 
quart of iced water. 

No. _ — 1 pounds Hour, j jg pound butter, 2 :! , pounds pastry 
butterine, a little vinegar, a scant quart of cold water. 

No, 3 I pounds Hour. 3 pounds pastry butterine, ' -j ounce 
Cream of tartar. 1 scant quart Of water. 

The method of working is practically the same for the 
three formulas given. Rub 8 ounces of the fat in the flour 
and mix into a smooth dough, slightly tighter than the butter, 
because the dough will soften by laying. Work it smooth and 
form in a square, cover with a cloth and let the dough lose 
its spring for hair an hour or more in a cool place. To begin 
the rolling in of the butter, dust the table and dough with 

Hour and roll dough into a long square three times as long 
as wide and about one-half inch thick. Place the butter 
evenly over two-thirds of the dough, then fold the hare part 
of dough over half of the butter, then the butter part over 
on top of the dough. This forms a square of three layers of 
dough with two layers of butter between. Press down the 
sides of the dough to inclose the butter on all sides, and begin 
rolling. Lift the whole piece around lengthwise, dust again 
with flour, and roll out carefully without too much pressure 
to an oblong about one-fourth inch thick; brush off any sur- 
plus of flour and fold in three. Let dough rest and keep 
dough covered between rollings to prevent crusting. Give 
two more rollings and foldings in three, give a rest, and then 
two more turns. This finishes the paste. F'ive turns or fold- 
ings are usually given for butterine, but practice together 
with observation will determine if one more turn or only a 
folding in two is required to finish the paste. As a rule, if 
the butter runs out in baking one more half turn may be 
given. But if the paste bakes out too tight or heavy, like 
scrap paste, it has been overworked and should have had one 
turn less. Running out of butter in baking may also be 
caused by oily butter breaking through the paste in rolling or 
the paste getting too warm between the turns, which softens 
the butter. Another trouble is caused by the butter getting 

101 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



too hard if the paste stands too long on ice before the rollings 
are finished. The hard butter will break through the softer 
dough. After the rollings are finished the paste is benefited 
by standing on the ice, and is better to cut out. If not quite 
certain that the paste has been rolled sufficiently, a small 
piece of the rolled-in paste may be baked to test it. 

The rests between the rollings are given to prevent the 
paste from shrinking. If the rolling and folding were con- 
tinued without intermissions the dough would become tougher 
than the butter and shrink in baking. For the same reason, 
when the pastries are cut out and set on the pans, a little 
time must be given on the pan to recover from the effects of 
the rolling. This assists and helps to make the goods bake 
up without shrinking. Pastries to rise high and evenly 
should have sharp-cut edges ; dull knives or cutters push the 
layers of paste into each other and prevent even rising. 
When cutting out patties or tarts it is best to turn them 
upside down on the wet pans. This moderates the effects of 
the pressure. In washing pastries with egg, care must be 
exercised so the wash does not run down on the cut sides 
because this would prevent the even rising. All these little 
details must be observed in the making of puff paste goods. 
It may happen that it is necessary to use a soft grade of 
butter, which is difficult to roll in. About 4 ounces of flour 
may be worked into the soft butter to toughen it, and 2 ounces 
of the mixed butter may be rubbed in the % pound of flour, 
and the pound of mixed butter rolled in as usual. 

Quickly Made Puff Paste 

Chop from %, to 1 pound hard butter into 1 pound cold 
flour, to form small lumps ; then sprinkle cold water over, 
barely enough to mix, shake it up without working, press 
together and put on flour-dusted slab or table. Pass rolling 
pin over and fold into a square. Then roll out and fold in 
three, the same as regular puff paste, giving five turns. The 
same mixture is made by adding 1 ounce baking powder, or 
i/2 ounce cream of tartar or cream powder, and 14 ounce soda, 
sifting it in the flour, or dusting it in with some flour between 
the rollings. 

102 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



To Use the Trimmings of Puff Paste 

Trimmings are rolled together and may be used for goods 
which do not require to rise high, such as linings for tarts. 
for bottoms or slices, etc.. but they may be made into good 
paste and reconstructed by rolling the paste into one large 
square and rolling in about 1 ounces butter, divided into small 
bits, for each pound of scraps. Give only a couple of foldings. 
From two to three times is sufficient. 

Jt should be kept in mind that puff paste is at its host 
when freshly made, [f a dough is a day or two old it loses 
lifting power and does not rise so high in baking. If more 
puff-paste is made at one time than can be used the same day, 
it is better to divide the paste in two parts, and not finish 
the left over part entirely, giving the last two or three fold- 
ings the next morning before using. This keeps the layers 
of butter and dough separated and if put in a cool place it 
will keep in good condition. 

Baking of Pull Pastry 

The baking heat varies. Very small goods require a 
• pucker heat than larger pieces, and a good solid bread heat, 
even but not flashy, is best for the average goods. If the 
heat is too strong the crust is formed too quickly, not giving 
sufficient time for the paste to rise. This is especially so in 
the baking of patty shells. The large patties, known as vol- 
au-vents, require very careful baking. Cream slices or cream 
rolls require to be baked crisp, and must be baked in a slower 
heat ; too quick baking would leave a layer of only half-baked 
paste in the center, which is not desirable. 

THE MAKING OF PIE DOUGHS 

In the making of pie crusts the same rules hold good as 
in making puff paste. Have the flour, shortening and water 
cold, and mix and work up the paste in a cool place. Very 
strong flours, used for bread making, are not adapted for a 
good pie dough. Strong flours require more shortening and 
make a tough eating crust. Use a good soft winter wheat 
patent flour, if flour is too soft and heavy a little bread flour 

103 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



may be added. For shortening, a good firm leaf lard or other 
firm shortening produces the best crust. A little butter 
added gives flavor, but is very little used in pie doughs. As 
lard and other shortenings contain no salt, some salt must 
be added to bring out the flavor and make a tasty crust. The 
salt may be sifted into the flour or added to the water used 
for mixing. It is well to ascertain the proper quantity of 
water required for mixing. This prevents overmixing, and 
may be easily found by close observation. This is the best 
method of obtaining uniform pie crust. Much depends on 
skill in mixing. Two kinds of crust, top and bottom crust, of 
different richness, are used. Bottom crust is made slightly 
softer and less rich ; too rich a bottom crust is apt to become 
soggy in baking. For open pies, for which the bottom is 
baked before the filling is put in, such as lemon pies or cream 
pies, the crust is made slightly richer than for fruit pie bot- 
toms. 

The Mixing of Pie Crusts 

Have lard cold and firm, add to the sifted flour and break 
the lard in small bits, then flatten the pieces of fat with the 
flour between the hands in thin leaves. Do not rub much, 
rather squeeze or press, and shake the fat and flour together, 
then add the water and rather shake the ingredients together, 
so flour, water and shortening will hold together. Then 
throw on flour-dusted table, press flat with the hands, and 
fold sides to form a square, cover and let rest in ice box over 
night or until it hardens. Pieces of the proper size to make 
one cover should be cut or broken off, to make as little scrap 
as possible. Bottom crusts are usually made a little softer, 
but should not be over-mixed and toughened. Large quantities 
of pie dough are best mixed in dough mixer, but overmixing 
should be avoided, and it is better to divide large mixtures in 
several batches if mixing in machine. 

Pie Paste— Top Crust 

No. 1 — 5 pounds flour, 3 pounds lard, l /o pound butter, 
1 ounce salt, 1 quart water. 

No. 2 — 5 pounds flour, 2 pounds lard, 1 pound pastry but- 
terine, 2 ounces salt, 1 quart water. 

104 



CAKES I'd; BAKERS 



No. 3 5 pounds flour, -'■'• i pounds pastry butterine or 
compound, ■ '> ounces Bait, a good quart water. 

Pie Paste— Bottom (Hist 

5 pounds flour, from - to 2V£ pounds lard or compound. 
lM-j ounces salt; about l 1 i (punt- water is used, according to 
quality desired. 

Custard I'ie Bottom 

Three pounds Hour, l pound shortening, l ounce sugar, a 
little salt. Rub shortening, salt and sugar into the flour, 
then mix with cold milk or water into a not to,, soft paste. 
A couple of yolks may be added for tart paste or when the 
rim is pinclu-d up for decoration. This crust may also '»*• 
used for baked bottoms. 

To obtain a nicely baked bottom for soft pies, roll bottom 

out Slightly thicker than for fruit pies, trim the sides and let 

stand for half an hour before baking. This prevents shrink- 
ing. Dust with a little flour and place an empty pie tin with 
clean bottom on top of the past.'. Tut the bottoms in the 
oven and bake. When the paste which shows between the two 
tins begins to color, the top tin may lie removed and the 
baking finished. 

Paste for Cream Puffs, Etc. 

Cream pull's are made according to different standards of 
quality, but the most important part is the preparing of the 
paste, the proper scalding. In the cooking of the paste, put 
the water, hot water if handy, with the shortening on the 
fire. See that the fat is melted and let come to a good boil. 
Then stir in the sifted flour with the spatula or a strong egg- 
beater. Put the paste in mixing bowl or machine and work 
in the eggs by degrees, beating the mixture well between 
each addition. It is best to stir mixture a little to remove 
the extreme heat so as not to cook the eggs, but the paste 
must be hot while working in the eggs. Stir in the first part 
of eggs with spatula or beater and when cool enough finish 
by hand. More or less eggs are required to bring the mix- 
ture to the proper consistency. A too soft mixture causes 

105 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



very thin bottoms and makes a rather frail puff. Too firm a 
mixture makes them small. Some bakers drop out the puffs 
by hand, by squeezing the mixture out over the thumb and 
forefinger, and cutting off with the forefinger of the other 
hand ; others use the bag and tube. The pans should be very 
lightly greased and dusted with flour. Washing the tops of 
cream puffs with egg wash before baking gives a pretty 
crack and color, but they may be baked without washing. 
Ammonia is used in puffs to produce a better crack. An excess 
of ammonia produces the contrary effect. Good puffs can be 
made without it, but a little ammonia is recommended. 

The mixing and panning of the puffs should be done 
quickly, in as short a time as possible, to get the puffs in the 
oven while the mixture is still warm, because when the puffs 
cool — and depending on the humidity of atmosphere — a thin 
crust forms, preventing proper expansion in baking. Eclairs 
are often made and let stand in the shop for a while so a thin 
crust forms; this produces a smooth top. 

The baking requires a good heat, but the oven should not 
be too hot or flashy; the flash heat will cause caps. A 
good but steady heat should be used and the oven door left 
open until the puffs are up; if too hot the damper may be 
drawn. If the oven is too cool a small puff results. The for- 
mulas used for puffs may also be used for eclairs, and the 
ammonia left out, to secure a smooth top, because the eclairs 
are iced, while the puffs are sold with a little powdered sugar 
sifted over. 

Cream Puffs 

No. 1 — 11/4 pounds bread flour, 1 pound lard, 1 quart 
water, about 24 eggs, i/i- ounce ammonia. Mix as directed, 
add a little milk if required, add the finely powdered ammonia 
last, and mix well. Leave out the ammonia for eclairs. If 
both puffs and eclairs are made from the same mixture, finish 
mixture and set up the eclairs with bag and plain tube on 
very lightly greased pans, not dusted with flour. For the 
puffs add the ammonia, and drop puffs on dusted pans. Mix- 
ture makes 8 dozen large puffs, or 9 to 9 1/2 dozen eclairs. 

No. 2 — 1 quart water, 1 pound lard, a pinch of salt, 1V2 

106 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



pounds Hour — half spring, half winter — pint of milk, 1 quart 
eggs. Add the milk to the hot (lour paste in kettle; after 
cooking the paste, put mixture in bowl and work in the eggs; 
beat smooth and drop out on dusted pans. 

No. 3 — 1 quart water, 1 pound shortening, l J o pounds 
strong flour. 16 eggs. ' ■> ounce ammonia, milk to mix smooth. 

No. 4 — 1 pint milk. 1 pint water. 12 ounces butter and 
lard, 1 pound bread flour. 12 eggs to mix smooth. Boil milk 
and water with shortening, then add the flour. This makes 
a rather soft paste before the eggs are added, but gets slightly 
stiffer when the eggs are worked in. 

French Fried Cake, Cruller or Sprit/. Kuchen 

No. 1 — % pound butter or lard. 2 ounces sugar, 1 j 2 pints 
water, li | pounds bread flour. L5 eggs. 

St. Honore Tart Paste for Borders 

No. 2 — % pound shortening. 1 1 .. pints milk. 1 pound cake 
flour, about 1 pint eggs — half yolks, half whole eggs, to make 
a soft mixture which may be dressed up with bag and star 
tube so it holds its shape. 

The cruller paste, as well as the tart paste, is mixed the 
same as cream puff paste. 

MERINGUE PASTES 

Meringue enters often in the ordinary work and is used in 
many ways, for covering pies, making small fancy tarts, 
meringue shells, kisses, etc. Meringues are made very simply 
of beaten egg whites and sugar and are not difficult to make 
if care is used. All the utensils must be entirely free from 
grease or any kind of fat, because a spot of grease is apt to 
spoil the whole mixture. It is well to have a special beater 
and kettle for beating eggs or meringue, and care should be 
taken that the sugar is absolutely clean. The egg whites 
must be free from yolks. A medium grade of not too fine 
standard powdered sugar is considered best for the ordinary 
meringue. 

No. 1 — Light Cold Meringue is used for covering pies and 
tarts and sugar is used in various proportions. Some bakers 

107 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



figure an ounce of sugar for every egg white, others use from 
% pound to V/-2 pounds sugar for each pint of egg whites, 
and these variations make a more or less strong meringue. 

Standard Cold Meringue Paste 

No. 2 — 1 quart egg whites, 6 pounds powdered sugar or 
2 pounds granulated sugar and 4 pounds powdered sugar, i/ 2 
teaspoonful cream of tartar. Beat up the egg whites in 
machine or by hand, have the egg whites cold, the sugar dry 
and sifted. Beat slowly at the start and increase the speed. 
When the whites get firm, add a little sugar at a time and 
gradually beat in half of the sugar and cream of tartar. Add 
flavoring and draw in the other half of the sugar, using the 
hand or spatula. Avoid stirring and overmixing, which 
would soften the paste. If color is added this should be done 
before the balance of sugar is mixed in. This meringue is 
used for shells, Easter eggs, small pyramids and many other 
varieties. 

Hot Meringue Paste 

No. 3 — 1 quart egg whites, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 

2 pounds powdered sugar, i/o teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
Put egg whites and granulated sugar in kettle, set in hot 
water bath, stir until it feels quite hot to the fingers, then 
put in machine and beat up on good speed until the mixture 
stands up well, add flavor and take off the machine, carefully 
draw in the powdered sugar. This meringue may be used 
for most all kinds of work, except fancy kisses, in which case 

3 pounds sugar should be beaten in and 3 pounds mixed in. 

Hot Meringue Paste 

No. 4 — Sift 2'/o pounds powdered sugar onto heavy paper 
and set on pan in the oven to get hot, then beat sugar and 
1 pint egg whites in machine until it stands up well; flavor to 
suit. 

Light Boiled Meringue Paste 

No. 5 — Boil 2'/. pounds granulated sugar, 1 pint water, to 
240 degrees, beat light 1 pint egg whites, and by degrees 

ION 



L'AKKS loi: i:.\ki:i;s 



beat in ' -j pound powdered sugar, then add the boiled hot 
syrup in a thin stream, beating constantly, and boat until 
cool. 

Heavy Boiled Meringue Paste 

No. 6 — 1 pint egg whites, o 1 | pounds granulated sugar. 
1 pint water. ' - pound powdered Sugar. Boil granulated 
sugar and water t<> 240 degrees. Beat vixg whites stiff and 
add powdered sugar, and finish like No. 5. 

The hot meringue, also the boiled meringue, arc also 
known as Italian or French meringues. 

(aim Paste, Tragacanth Paste, Pastillaue 

Put 2 ounces gum tragacanth in ' ._. pint cold water, cover 
and let stand in a warm place for about two days. When the 
gum has absorbed all the water, press it through a cloth or 
sieve. Mix with 1 pound icing sugar and work smooth. Put 
away in a jar and cover with a damp cloth. If the paste is to 
be used for lozenges, work in 2 pounds icing sugar with flavor 
and color to suit. Fbr ornamental work, add starch in the 
same proportion as sugar. This makes a pliable, elastic paste, 
which can easily be molded in any shape or pressed in molds 
for figure work. It may be colored in any shade. A little 
hluing may be added to improve the white color. If the paste 
is too firm it may be softened by mixing starch and water to 
a soft paste and adding it. or some glucose may be worked in. 

Croquant Paste 

Mix 1 pound icing sugar, 2 pounds flour, and 2 ounces 
butter with sufficient egg whites into a smooth, workable 
paste. This paste may be used to make baskets and other 
ornaments which require a foundation. It keeps its shape 
well when properly baked. 

MACAROON PASTES 

Macaroons are today made from ready-made almond paste, 
which is more reliable and saves the labor of blanching and 
grinding the almonds. The old-fashioned . way is to take 
1 pound blanched almonds, rub or grind them in mortar with 

109 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



some egg whites, then add 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar 
and make into a workable paste with more egg whites. The 
prepared almond paste contains sugar, and the rule is to take 
1 pound of the ready-made paste, 1 pound coarse powdered 
sugar — or half granulated, half powdered sugar — and mix 
with sufficient egg whites to a paste which can be dressed up 
with bag and tube. 

In the mixing, grease must be avoided. The paste is best 
mixed if cut in thin shavings, then working in the egg whites 
in small portions, then adding the sugar. For plain macaroons 
the paste should not be too soft; this causes macaroons to 
bake up hollow. Also, if too much sugar is used, the bottom 
will break in when the cakes are removed from the paper. A 
temperature of 280 to 300 degrees is about right. Regulate 
the heat by opening the door, but not the damper, when bak- 
ing the macaroons. If using thin pans, better use double 
paper under the macaroons, or bake them on double pans, 
especially if bottom heat is stronger than top heat. Thick, 
heavy pans are best for baking. 

Plain Macaroon Paste 

Take 2 , /2 pounds almond paste, 1 pint egg whites, 2*4 
pounds sugar — half granulated, half powdered sugar. Mix 
smooth with half of the egg whites, work in the sugar and 
add balance of egg whites and work in well. The mixture 
should be just right to stand without running flat. Use a 
plain -"/a-inch tube and dress on paper about the size of a 
quarter of a dollar. When dropped out the little point in the 
center may be pressed down, by using a wet cloth, before 
baking. It is best to bake the macaroons as soon as possible 
after they are set on the paper; if they cannot be baked at 
once keep them out of drafts to prevent crusting. When 
baked and cool, turn over on the table, wet the paper with a 
brush, let lay a minute, then turn over and take off the 
macaroons. It is the custom to put two macaroons together, 
and pile them in symmetrical order in pyramid fashion for sale. 

Fancy Macaroon Paste 

One and one-half pounds almond paste, Vli pint or more 
egg whites, 1 pound 10 ounces standard powdered sugar, 

no 



CAKES F'OR BAKERS 



2 ounces flour. Flavor with grated rind of lemon or orange, 
or some powdered cinnamon. Work the paste smooth as 
given for plain macaroons, with egg- whites, add sugar and 
flavor. The mixture should be soft enough so it can be 
dressed with bag and star tube in various shapes. The paste 
may be used cold, but by warming the mixture it is softened 
and is easier to use. and dries more quickly. This paste is 
used for decorative borders on large cakes and tarts, and it 
may be used for making large pyramids from scrolls baked 
of the same paste, by adding 1 ounces more flour, which 
produces a more solid cake. The fancy macaroons, also 
larger scrolls for decorative pieces, may be glaced with a gum 
wash which dries quickly. This is made as follows: 

Glazing for Macaroons 

Mix 1 pound finely crushed white gum arabic with 3 ounces 
sugar, the juice of half a lemon and 1 pint of cold water; let 
stand for 36 hours. Stir and warm to dissolve, then strain 
and keep bottled in covered jar; apply with a brush. 

SHORT PASTES FOR LARGE AM) SMALL TARTS 

Confectioners' Short Pastes 

No. 1 — 3 pounds soft flour. 2 pounds butter, 1 pound pow- 
dered sugar, 4 eggs. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds soft flour, 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar, 
4 eggs, 1/4 pint milk. 

No. 3 — 3 pounds flour, 1 pound butter, l'/|. pounds sugar, 
9 eggs, V4 ounce powdered ammonia, flavor of mace, lemon 
and almonds. 

No. 4 — 3 pounds flour, V-> pound compound, '/.> pound sugar, 
1 ounce baking powder, 3 l /o gi^s water. 

Almond Short Paste 

No. 1 — 2 pounds soft flour, 114 pounds butter, 1 pound 
powdered sugar, % pound ground almonds or almond paste, 
6 whole eggs, 4 yolks, grated rind of lemon ; flavor with vanilla, 
ground cinnamon or almond. 

Method : Work sugar and butter together in a cool place ; 

ill 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



add eggs, almonds and flour, work together, and allow mixture 
to cool and stiffen. A pinch of powdered ammonia may be 
added to short paste if a lighter mixture is desired. 

No. 2 — 2V-2 pounds cake flour, Yi pound butter, 1/2 pound 
neutral fat, 1 pound sugar, V2 pound almond paste, 2 eggs, 
1/3 ounce ammonia. 

Method : Rub almond paste smooth with eggs ; add sugar 
and butter, rub together; add ammonia and flavor; then add 
flour and sufficient cold water to make a smooth paste. 

The other short pastes are best made by first rubbing the 
flour and shortening well together; then make a bay in center, 
put in the sugar and eggs, add flavor, mix, and work in the 
flour. 

Marzipan Paste for Cake Covering 

Work together 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound icing sugar 
and sufficient egg white to make mixture of such consistency 
that it can be rolled out very thin. Flavor with orange or 
vanilla. Another method is to work in 1 pound of fondant. 

Marzipan Paste of Ground Almonds 

Take 1% pounds blanched sweet almonds, 4 ounces bitter 
almonds, and grind to a fine paste. Put this paste into a kettle 
on the fire with 1 pound powdered sugar, and stir until it is 
smooth and does not stick to the finger. This may be worked 
with more sugar into a smooth, pliable paste, flavored and 
colored to suit. It may be mixed with fondant in place of the 
sugar and molded into any shape. If paste hardens it may 
be made pliable with a little syrup or glucose. This paste may 
be used in many ways. 

Almond or Marzipan Paste for Decorative Use 

A firm paste may be made by softening 1 pound almond 
paste with 2 egg whites, 2 ounces glucose. Then work in 
sufficient powdered sugar to make it of the firmness required. 
The paste may be cut and shaped in any form, for making 
bars, wheels or forms of any kind used for window displays 
or cake tops. Small fruits may be modeled, the coloring 
material being mixed with the paste. For imitating fruits the 

112 



I'AKKS loi: UAKKUS 



cheeks are tinted with dry powder color, mixed with a little 
starch and applied with a wad of cotton. 

PATTY SHELLS AM) TART (ASKS 

Patty shells are served with fillings of oysters or meats, 
and they may also be used for filling with creams and pre- 




11 lustration which appeared in an 
advertisement in an English bakery 
journal , showing what happens dur- 
ing the process or baking putr paste. 

serves, with the difference that the cases used for sweets 
may he glazed with syrup, etc., while those used for meats 
should not be sweetened. 

The Single Case or Patty 

Roll the paste out to %-inch thickness and cut with round, 
square, oval, heart- or diamond-shaped cutter. The plain 
patty is made from 2% to 3'/o inches in diameter. Set on 
wet pans, allow to stand for half an hour, then cut the center 
with a 2-inch cutter, but only about half through paste. The 
top only is then carefully washed with a light egg wash, seeing 
the wash does not run down the sides, which would hinder the 
paste from even rising in baking. Bake in medium heat. A 
case cut out of %-inch paste should rise to IV2 to 1% inches 
high in baking. When baked and while warm, remove the 
center or top piece carefully, by running a knife around, and 
in deep cases a part of the soft inside is removed to leave 
room for the filling. The tops are kept to use as a cover for 
meat fillings. When making shallow cases, where the top is 

113 



CAKES F'OR BAKERS 



not used, it is simply pressed down and the case is ready for 
any filling-. 

Double Cases 

This case is made in two pieces. A thin bottom is cut 
of i/s-inch paste or scrap paste set on wet pans and washed 
with water. From paste Vg inch to i/j, inch thick a disk to cut 
out, of same diameter as the bottom, and the center is entirely 
n ut out. The ring is placed evenly on the washed bottom, 
carefully washed with egg on top only, and after being given 
a little time to rest they are baked the same as the single 
cases. If the tops are required they may be baked separately. 

Continental bakers use a special plain stamped tart tin 
which makes a very light and crisp case. The tins are about 
2V2 inches in diameter and IV2 inches deep. These tins are 
made with a wide turned-over rim or edge, and are laid 
upside down on the baking pans. Disks are cut from Va-inch 
paste with plain or scalloped cutter about 3 inches in diameter, 
and pressed over the bottom and gently into the turned edge, 
being given some time to stand and recover before baking. 
Other ready-made cases may be baked in the different shaped 
fancy molds or tins, and the lightly greased tins lined out 
with puff paste, short paste or tart paste. To have the case 
hold its shape the center is filled with rice or beans. When 
baked the beans are shaked out, the case is brushed out, and 
is then ready for the filling. The beans or rice may be used 
over again many times. 

How to Use the Ready-Made Cases 

Having the cases ready for filling, many kinds of tarts 
may be made at short notice or to order. Fresh fruits in 
season, preserved fruits, cream fillings, or combinations of 
cream and fruits may be used, the finishing touch put on with 
icing, meringue, butter cream or whipped cream. These may 
be topped off with half a candied cherry, halves of nutmeats 
or French fruit glaces. In this manner an endless variety 
can be produced. Patty shells for meats and oysters should 
be high, so as to hold sufficient filling. But for sweet tart 
cases the rim or border should not be made too high, as it 
would hide the fillings of fruit or cream. 

114 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Preserved fruits, made with more or less sugar and others 
even without any sugar, should be improved by draining- off 
the juice from the fruit through a fine sieve. The juice is 
boiled down to a syrup by adding to each pint of juice from 
1 i to 1 pound of sugar, according to sweetness, and about j 2 to 
1 ounce dissolved gelatine. The drained fruit is covered with 
this syrup, and when it cools and begins to thicken is placed 
in the cast's, and the syrup used to mask it carefully, so as not 
to hide the fruit. This must be done at the right moment, 
when the jelly thickens but has not set fully. Coloring may 
be added to fruit juice if required. When using fresh fruit. 
berries, peaches or cherries, a part of the fruit may be crushed 
and made into a syrup; the other fresh and fully ripe fruit 
may be placed in a dish and covered with this syrup and 
handled in the same manner as the preserved fruit. Apricot, 
green gage, plum or gooseberry jam is much used for masking 
other fruits, also for filling. Apple jelly and currant jelly, if 
used for masking fruits or for covering, should be heated and 
used while hot. 

APPLE PASTRIES 

These pastries are very popular, though apples are one of 
the less expensive fruits. Apples may be used fresh or 
stewed, also in combination with raisins and a little good 
apple jam may be added to the more expensive fruits, such 
as strawberries, raspberries or cherries, when preparing the 
fruit. The pastries may be made in the form of turnovers, 
crescents, small dumplings ; or they may be made in the form 
of an open tart, or fully covered, or meringued, or the stewed 
fruit or jam may be filled in ready cases, covered with cream 
or whipped cream and used in many other ways. 

French Apple Tarts 

No. 1 — Roll out bottom of puff paste or short paste, put 
on a border of the same paste. Spread a thin layer of apple 
jam in bottom and lay fresh or canned apples cut in even 
slices on the jam. Bake to a nice color and mask with hot jelly 
when done. 

No. 2 — Prepare case as in No. 1. Arrange the sliced apples 

115 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in circular fashion in the case, sprinkle with sugar and cinna- 
mon, cover each tart with a buttered paper and bake until 
done. Remove paper and dust again with sugar. 

No. 3 — Use ready-baked cases. For filling use slices of 
apples cut rather thick and simmered in cinnamon-flavored 
syrup until soft. Arrange slices neatly in the baked case. 
Place a cherry in the center and mask with the cold syrup. 

Apple Boats 

Line boat-shaped forms with short paste. Make filling 
of finely chopped apples mixed with apple jam and a few 
sultanas, the grated rind and juice of one orange, and sweet- 
ened to taste. Fill forms quite full, wash rim, and cut strips 
of same paste to form a lattice ; egg-wash and bake to a nice 
color. 

Apple Chantilly or Apple Cream Tarts 

Fill ready baked cases partly with stewed fruit or jam and 
cover with border and lattice, or a pyramid of whipped cream, 
then decorate with red colored apple jelly. For cream tart, 
fill the ready-baked case partly with fruit, cover with pastry 
cream, and finish with a lattice or pyramid of meringue ; 
brown lightly in the oven. 

Fresh stewed peaches or apricots may be used in the same 
way as apples, with whipped cream or pastry cream. 

TARTS AND TARTLETS 

Strawberry Tartlets 

No. 1 — Use ready-baked cases of puff paste, short paste 
or rich pie paste. Fill a layer of pastry cream in the bottom 
of each case and cover with sweet ripe berries. These may 
be finished with a border of whipped cream, meringue or fresh 
marshmallow. When using meringue, brown lightly in the 
oven. 

No. 2 — Bake cases from any of the pastes as above. Fill 
with fresh berries, pyramid shape, cover with a jelly made 
as follows : Let 1 pint simple syrup come to a boil, add 1 table- 
spoonful dissolved cornstarch, and let boil clear, mix this with 
1 pint of apple or apricot jelly. Cover the fruit with this 

no 



CAKES M)K RAKKKS 



evenly. Another way is to use a gelatine jelly as given above. 
Raspberries or blackberries may be used in like manner. 

Cherry Tartlets 

Remove fche stones from the fresh fruit without undue 
crushing, simmer in syrup, and when nearly cold arrange 
fruit in cases and mask with the cold syrup. Or the fruit 
may he baked in the lined cases, sweetened and flavored with 
cinnamon, and afterwards covered with some hot jelly or 
cold jellied syrup. Or the baked case may be partly filled 
with pastry cream, covering this with the stewed fruit and 
finishing top with meringue or marshmallow. There are many 
other ways of using the prepared fruit or berries. Stewed 
figs, prunes or pineapple in ready-baked cases are very handy 
for the bakery lunchroom, and the cases can lie made very 
attractive by brushing the sides with hot jelly and covering 
this with shredded cocoanut, chopped browned filberts or 
almonds, or pistachio nuts. 

Tartlet Carnival 

Under this name a variety of fruit cream tarts are made 
which may he prepared on short notice with ready-baked cases 
made of puff paste or short paste, also by using small shallow 
cakes baked in tart or cup cake forms. Fresh fruits in season, 
very ripe and tender, also the preserved fruit and fruit jams, 
may be used for these tarts. 

Peach Carnival 

Put a spoonful of pastry cream or whipped cream in a 
shallow ready-baked tart case, cover this with half a fresh or 
preserved peach or apricot, etc. Cover the fruit with a crisp 
baked cover of the same paste used for the case, disguise the 
sides with a border of whipped cream, marshmallow or 
meringue, finish center with a strap or ring, and top off with 
perfect halves of nuts or a cherry or a fresh berry dipped in 
jelly. Use other fruits the same as peaches. 

Another way is to bake small cakes, and cut a small cone 
from center. Brush sides with jelly or cream and cover with 
browned chopped nut meats. Put a dot of cream in the cavity, 

117 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cover the cream with any fresh or preserved fruit and cover 
the fruit with a pyramid of whipped cream, marshmallow or 
meringue. Sprinkle a few browned chopped nuts on top, or 
finish with half a cherry in the center. 

Open Fruit Tarts 

In the opening remarks on ready-made cases, the preparing 
of fruits with or without gelatine glazing, to make them attrac- 
tive, has been explained. The fresh fruits, as well as the 
canned fruits, which may be sweetened to taste, allow for 
quite a large variety which always find a ready sale. When 
using the canned fruit, drain off the juice carefully and place 
the drained fruit with a little sugar in the lined cases, baking 
them nicely. While the fruit is baking, boil the juice down 
to a jelly, using about 1 pound sugar to 1 pint juice and boil- 
ing it down until rather thick, so it sets well when cold. The 
jellies may be slightly colored to make them attractive, if 
they are too light. 

Some fresh fruits, such as ripe peaches, apricots or straw- 
berries, require no baking. A little jam may be placed in the 
cases, and when baked the peaches or other fruit are neatly 
placed on top of the jam, and the fruit masked with the boiled 
down jelly before it sets. The tarts may then be finished witli 
border around the edge, using chopped nutmeats, etc. 

English Cheese Tarts or Cheese Cake 

A large variety of these tarts, known by the name of 
cheese tarts, are in fact custards mixed with almonds, nuts, 
cake crumbs, etc., but contain no cheese in the proper sense. 
The best grades of these tarts contain large quantities of 
ground almonds, while in the cheaper grades almond essence 
takes the place of the almonds. American confectioners use 
ready-made almond paste or kernel paste in these tarts, and 
the tarts are generally known as almond tarts. Tart tins 
with a bent edge, lined with short paste or puff paste and cut 
out with scalloped cutters, make the best looking tarts. 

Alexandra Cheese Tartlets 

Cream together 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint eggs ; 
add the grated rind of 2 lemons, 6 ounces ground almonds and 

118 



CAFFS FOR BAKERS 



1 pound cake Hour. Line tins with short paste, put a little 
good fruit jam in bottom, and till about three-fourths with the 
given filling. Bake in medium heat. The mixture should bake 
nice and round in center. Ice top with vanilla-flavored fon- 
dant, and sprinkle some browned chopped nuts on the soft 
icing. The tops may be finished in many other ways. 

Plain Cheese Cake Filling 

No. 1 — Cream together 2 pounds powdered sugar, l'o 
pounds butter, 12 eggs, the juice and rind of 2 lemons, 2 pounds 
cake crumbs. Use almond flavor or a few crushed nuts or 
almonds. 

No. 2 — 2' j pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter or substitute, 
16 eggs, 3 pounds soft Hour, flavor of almonds. If mixture 
is too firm a little milk may be added, but the mixture should 
not be too soft. 

To these mixtures some currants or sultanas may be added, 
more or less, according to prices obtained. The tins may be 
lined with puff paste trimmings or with short paste and a 
little jam placed in the bottom for the plain mixture; in those 
with fruit it may be left out. Bake in medium heat, and when 
cold finish top as fancy dictates. 

The addition of melted chocolate or cocoa, with a few 
crushed walnuts, makes another variety of tarts, which may 
be iced in chocolate or in marble fashion, or chocolate and 
white. 

Congress Tart Fillings 

No. 1 — 1 pound ground almonds, 2% pounds coarse pow- 
dered sugar, 4 ounces rice flour or corn flour, 4 ounces cake 
crumbs, about % pint egg white, flavor of almond extract. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar, 1 pound ground 
almonds, 3 ounces rice flour, about 14 egg whites, flavor of 
lemon or vanilla. The ingredients may all be mixed together 
and then beaten up in machine or by hand until nice and light. 
If mixture is too firm, a little water may be added. The tart 
tins may be lined with puff paste or short paste and a little jam 
placed in the bottom, then the fillings placed on top with a 
cross of paste on top of each. 

119 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Macaroon Tart with Almond Paste or Kernel Paste 

One pound almond paste or kernel paste, lyj. pounds coarse 
powdered sugar, about '/s pint of egg whites. Mix and finish 
like macaroon paste, line tins, and place cross of strips on 
each, the same as Congress tarts. Bake in about 300 degrees 
Fahr. 

Cocoanut Macaroon Tart 

Mix together l 1 /2 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 2 14 pounds 
sugar — half powdered and half granulated — add about 1*4 
pounds or pints egg whites. Set on the fire and stir until 
clear. Heat near boiling but do not let boil. Fill in the lined 
tart forms with or without jam in bottom. Bake in medium 
heat— 280 to 300 degrees. 

Chocolate Macaroon Tart 

Prepare a filling of almond paste or as for cocoanut 
macaroon tarts, add from 2 to 4 ounces melted cocoa or choco- 
late, and additional egg white to make a soft mixture. Bake 
the same as other macaroon tarts. 

Filbert or Hazelnut Tarts 

Take 1 pound coarse powdered sugar, 1/2 pound lightly 
roasted and ground filberts, and mix into a smooth paste with 
sufficient egg white. Heat mixture the same as for cocoanut 
tarts. Then fill in short paste-lined forms and bake. 

St. Honore Tart, Victoria Tart, Metropolitan Tart 

Cut out bottoms of puff paste with scalloped cutter ; set on 
wet pans and wash with water. With a bag and star tube 
dress a ring or border on top of the puff paste from the 
special French fried cake or cruller paste. Prick puff paste 
in the center and bake to a nice color. Glaze border with fon- 
dant and dip in chopped nuts or almonds, or dip in apricot 
jelly and sprinkle with cocoanut, etc. Fill center with nut 
cream or vanilla pastry cream and decorate with a dot of 
jelly. 

Variations of these tarts, which go by different names, are 
made by filling center of the baked tarts with fresh or pre- 

120 



CAKES MM: BAKERS 



Berved fruit or fruit jams, covered with whipped cream or 
various flavored butter creams; or till some pastry cream in 
bottom and cover with jellied fruit as given in the section 
on fruit tarts, in French pastry shops small tarts often go 
by French names, which are perplexing. Lemon tarts arc 
known as citronettes, nut cream tarts as cremes noisette, 
small almond tarts or chocolate tarts as fanchonettes aux 
amandes or au chocolate, etc. In fact, most all the small fancy 
cakes go by a special name to distinguish the different cakes 
and fillings. There is much scope for variety and originality 
in this line for the practical confectioner. 

German Cheese Tarts 

Riling No. l Rub 8 ounces cottage cheese through a 
sieve, add I jrolkes, 1 beaten egg whites. 6 ounces sugar, a little 
milk, 2 ounces melted butter, the grated rind of a lemon, a 
little grated nutmeg. 

Pilling No. 2 l pound cottage cheese, 8 ounces sugar, 
l ounces butter, »; eggs, - ounces ground almonds, 'J. ounces 

Chopped orange and citron peel, the grated rind of a lemon, 
flavor of nutmeg- or mace. 

Fill mixture in tail tins lined with puff paste. When 
done, dust with powdered sugar. A few sultanas or currants 
may he added to NoS. 1 and 2. 

American Cheese Filling 

Take 8 ounces grated American cheese, mix with 8 eggs, 
6 ounces sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, a little mace, 
gradually beat in 1 quart fresh milk. Fill in puff paste lined 
tart tins and bake. Dust with sugar and cinnamon when 
baked. 

Poppy Seed Tarts 

No. 1 — Let 1 pint milk come to a boil and pour over 
4 ounces poppy seed to soften. Let cool and rub smooth in 
mortar, add 6 ounces sugar, 3 yolks of eggs and 3 egg whites 
beaten light. 

No. 2 — 1V-2 pints milk, 6 ounces sugar; let come to a boil 
and slowly add 4 ounces farina, or cream of wheat. Boil until 

121 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



it thickens ; then add 4 ounces of poppy seed, stir and take off 
the fire. Let cool a little, then add 3 yolks and 3 egg whites 
beaten light. Fill in puff paste lined tart forms and bake. 
Dust with sugar or frost with vanilla icing when baked. 

Ascot Tarts 

Beat up 1/2 pint egg whites, gradually add 1 pound sugar, 
then mix in 6 ounces macaroon cocoanut and 4 ounces melted 
chocolate. Bake mixture in tins lined with tart paste and 
finish top to suit your fancy. 

Short Paste Tarts, Jumble Tarts 

Line small flat tins with plain short paste cut with scalloped 
cutter. Cream together 14 ounces butter, 1 pound powdered 
sugar, 5 eggs, or 1/0 pint yolks, add vanilla flavor, 1/2 P mt 
milk, 21/4, pounds cake flour, % ounce baking powder. Put 
mixture in bag with a star tube, run a ring around inside of 
the tart; let stand for a while to dry, then bake. Fill the 
center of ring with jam or jelly or use a combination of cream, 
butter cream and jelly. The outside of rim may be jellied and 
dipped in cocoanut or other chopped nut meats. 

Alliance Tart 

Roll out a sheet of puff paste about '/a-inch thick. Over 
half of the rolled paste lay a rolled piece of short paste or 
almond short paste, fold over the bare half of the puff paste 
and roll to 14-inch thickness. Cut in rounds, squares or 
diamond shapes. Set on lightly greased pans, mark with a 
small round cutter in the center, not cutting quite through 
the paste; egg wash and bake in medium heat. Lift center 
and fill open space with butter cream or whipped cream, in 
pyramid shape, place cover on top of cream so the cream 
shows nicely. Finish top with icing or whipped cream and 
half a cherry. 

Spiced Crumb Tarts 

Line tart forms with plain short paste. Take 2 pounds 
good cake crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound flour, 4 eggs, 
1/2 ounce mixed spice, add water or milk to make a not too 

122 



CAKKS I-Oli HAKKKS 



soft mixture; till in lined forms and bake. Ice in white, pink 
Or chocolate. Chocolate, chopped peel, or currants and raisins 
may be used in this mixture. 

Lemon (Yeam Tarts — Citronettes 

Bake tart cases and till with lemon cream when baked. 
Cover with meringue and dust with sugar. Bake to a nice 
color. 

Richelieu Tart — Noisettes 

Line tart forms with short paste or pull" paste, till about 
half with pastry cream containing some nut meats chopped 
fine; cover this with a soft macaroon paste mixed with coarsely 
chopped filberts and bake in medium heat, (dace with a thin 
fondant icing when baked. 



123 



VII. FRENCH PASTRIES 

French pastries consist of a variety of small puff pastries 
such as Napoleons or cream slices, turnovers, or rissoles, small 
tart plaits and many other shapes made of puff paste or com- 
binations of several pastes. The small pastries are usually 
glaced by dusting with powdered sugar and exposing them to a 
quick heat which melts the sugar to a caramel. Another 
method of glacing is to brush the baked pastry with a plain 
syrup while hot. 

In late years the term French pastry has been applied to 
all small fancy cakes, including small tarts, "petit choux" or 
cream puffs, eclairs, and many other small dipped cakes which 
are known as "petite fours glace," translated into English, 
small iced or dipped cakes. While some of these fancy cakes 
may have originated in France, many of them are made in a 
larger variety and with greater perfection by other European 
confectioners. Many of the cakes have a special name in pro- 
fessional parlance, others are individual creations given a 
pleasing name by the maker. The possibilities in this line of 
cake are so large that an endless variety may be produced by 
the skillful confectioner. In my book, "Pastry for the Res- 
taurant," these are specially featured, and "The Lunchroom" 
and "Paul Richard's Pastry Book" contains many other recipes 
for French pastry. 

Cream Slices — Napoleons 

Roll puff paste into a sheet about % inch thick and as long 
as the pan, cut into 4 1/2 to 5-inch wide strips. Let rest on the 
pans in a cool place, then prick strips with a fork to prevent 
blistering and bake in about 300 degrees Fahr. These strips 
require a cooler oven than other pastry, because they should be 
baked crisp all the way through. When baked spread pastry 
cream on top of one slice or strip and turn on other strip, 
bottom side up on top of the cream to obtain a smooth surface 
for frosting; ice with a thin vanilla icing. When icing is 

124 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



nearly dry cut with a sharp knife in slices or cut about 2 ' -j by 
5 inches. 

Two or three thin strips may be put together with jam and 
pastry cream, frosted and sprinkled with a few chopped nuts 
or browned almonds. Variations may be made, using chocolate 
icing, or the cut slices may be "Frenched" by covering top with 
whipped cream put on with bag and star tube, decorated with 
half a cherry in the center. 

Cream Rolls — Cornucopias 

Roll out pull' paste I,.., inch thick, cut in strips 1 inch wide 
and about 10 inches long, roll the washed strips on cream roll 
tins; let the strips slightly overlap each other. 

For cornucopias use pointed cone shaped tins and roll the 
paste on the tins in cone shape. Let rest on the tins before 
baking, then eggwash and hake in good heat. Dust with sugar 
when nearly baked, or glace with sugar syrup when baked, and 
when cool enough to handle remove from the tins. 

Cream rolls may be tilled with whipped cream, pastry cream, 
marshmallow or meringue. Cornucopias are usually made 
smaller than cream rolls. A little preserve, .jam or jelly maybe 
filled in the bottom, and top filled with whipped cream, butter 
cream or meringue. 

Turnovers — Rissoles 

The triangle shape is best to use in the bakery for turn- 
overs, as it prevents the making of scraps. But round shapes 
are also used, cut out with a 3 to o'/.j-inch-wide plain or 
scalloped cutter. For triangles roll puff paste out •/» inch thick 
cut in 4-inch or 5-inch squares, wash sides with water, fill 
chopped and sweetened apples or other fruit in the center; 
fold over the other side, triangle shape, press down sides to 
inclose the fruit. For the round cuts roll each round slightly 
thin in center to form a long oval, then wash and fill same as 
the triangles. Let stand on pans before baking, then egg wash 
and bake in good heat, dust and glace like cream rolls. These 
are often baked without filling, and when baked the cream puff 
filler is used, some cream or jelly being forced" in with the 
pump. 

Rissoles are a smaller form of turnover. Rounds or 

125 



CAKES F'OR BAKERS 



squares of puff paste are filled and folded over. The rissole is 
then laid in granulated sugar, and set on pan, sugar side down. 
When nearly baked and glaced on the under side, the top is 
dusted with powdered sugar and put back in the oven on double 
pan to glace on top. When baked the rissoles are decorated 
with strips of apple or currant jelly and royal icing. The 
rissoles are often made with fresh fruit in season, or with 
preserved fruits and jams, simply filled, glaced when baked, 
and decorated. 

Pretzels or Figures of Eight 

Cut strips of rolled out paste from 9 to 10 inches long — V-z 
to %, inch wide, wash and sprinkle with granulated sugar. 
Twist strips and form into pretzel on pan and bake in medium 
oven until nice and crisp. For eights omit the sugar. Form 
in figure on the pan and bake without washing. When done 
brush over with hot fruit jelly, sprinkle on one side with finely 
chopped pistachio nuts and crushed loaf sugar, the other side 
with chopped almonds and sugar. 

Crescents and Horseshoes 

No. 1 — Cut strips of rolled-out paste 4 inches long and 
1 inch wide. Lay these strips over tins bent half round and 
set on pans. These strips may be washed and sprinkled with 
chopped almonds, or covered with a macaroon paste and laid 
in chopped almonds before placing them on the tins. When 
baked and taken from the tins put five large dots of meringue 
on the under side, dust with sugar, and brown lightly in the 
oven. 

No. 2 — Cut wide strips, 2 1 />x6 inches; place a strip of jam 
or almond paste filling along the center and fold over the 
paste. Then make eight or ten cuts half through the paste 
on one side, and set on pans in crescent shape. Wash and 
glace after baking. Such strips may be twisted after being 
filled, and set on pans in crescent or horseshoe shape. 

Palm Leaves, Fans, Parisiennes 

No. 1 — Roll fresh paste or trimming into a square of 
about 18 inches, dust with sugar, roll, pin over, fold in two 
sides to center, dust again with sugar and fold again, and 

126 



CAKES FOR BAKKIiS 



continue folding and dusting until the piece is only about 1 
inches wide. Dust again with sugar and bring one layer over 
the other. This will make a strip about 2 inches wide, U/4, 
inches thick. Cut in slices ' ■> inch wide, lay these on very 
clean, lightly-greased tins, make cuts inside up and down, 21/2 
inches apart. Bake in hot oven. When partly baked dust with 
sugar, turn over on the pan with palette knife, dust again, 
and finish baking. Two of each shape may be sandwiched with 
jam and decorated. 

No. 2 — Roll out puff paste about ' - inch thick, cut from it 
3-inch strips, cut the strips in j r inch bars, lay these in gran- 
ulated sugar on the cut side, then lay with the sugar side on 
clean pans and bake in quick heat. They will spread about 
1 1 g inches when baked. Set them together with jam, on the 
unglaced side. Ice with a strip of fondant or in fan or sun 
shape. 

Bourbon Condes 

Cover a thin sheet of paste with preserve, plum jam, apri- 
cot or green gage jam. Cover this with a soft macaroon paste, 
using bag and tube. Cut in squares or other shapes, and bake 
in a medium heat. Decorate each piece with a ring of royal 
icing, with a dot of jam in center. 

Monte Carlos 

Roll out and cut rounds of paste, set on wet pans, and wash 
edges. Fill center with macaroon paste, not covering edge; 
lay another round on top and press down the edges, mark with 
a sharp knife around and prick in the center. Wash with egg 
and bake, then glace with sugar or syrup. 

Alumnettes — Royal Batons 

Roll paste out % inch thick. Spread with royal icing. 
Sprinkle with chopped almonds. Cut in strips 4 inches long 
and 114 inches wide. Let stand on the pans for 15 minutes 
to dry the icing, then bake in a cool oven. 

Richelieus 

Roll out paste and cut out circles, about 3 inches in diam- 
eter and !/8 incn thick. Cut a slit in the center, and through 

127 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



this slit pass a piece of crosscut paste 4 inches long and Vjj 
inch wide, so that the cut side rests on the pan. Wash the 
circle with the egg- and sprinkle with granulated sugar and 
almonds. Bake, and when done coat the end pieces with syrup 
or jam and sprinkle with sugar or ice with fondant. 

Mille Feuille 

Put jam between two thin layers of paste, cut in squares 
or slice and bake. When nearly done glace and finish baking. 
Two of these may be put together, masked with hot jelly, and 
sprinkled with shredded browned almonds. Another way is 
to cut strips or squares of rolled-out paste which is washed 
with egg and covered with streusel, such as is used on the 
coffee cake. Bake in good heat. Or squares are cut from 
paste washed and set on pans and a cross or firm macaroon 
paste is put on. These are baked in medium heat. 

Croix de Malta — Maltese Cross 

Cut puff paste rolled Vfc mcn thick in 314-inch squares. 
Cut from each corner to i/o inch of the center. Mark center 
with small round cutter. Egg wash and bake, glace with 
sugar or syrup. Push down in center, fill with jelly. Outline 
cross with white icing. 

Fleurons and Rosettes 

Fleurons are cut in crescent shape or in small star shapes 
and washed with egg. The star shapes may be filled by mark- 
ing the center and glacing the baked shapes. These small 
sweet pastries may be served with ice creams or fancy jellies 
and puddings as a garniture. Without sugar they are used 
for garniture for meat dishes. 

For rosettes, cut out shapes with five or six-pointed star 
cutter, wash center, and fold points to meet in the center. 
Wash, glace and bake. These may be filled with various 
creams or jams, like the others, and slightly decorated if 
desired. 

Buckingham* and Florentines 

Cut thin bottoms of scrap paste 2i/o to 3 inches in diameter. 
Set on wet pans, wash with water, cut out rings of Vfc-mch 

128 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

paste with scalloped cutter and set on the bottoms, laying 
rings in crushed sugar and almonds. Bake, and when done 
till center with whipped cream and plan- fresh strawberries 
or raspberries on top. These may first be dipped in hot jelly 
to glace them. Preserved fruit and jams may be used. 

Fbr Florentines till the baked forms with plum or ether 
fruit jam; cover with a pyramid of meringue, sprinkle with 
shredded almonds, and brown nicely in the oven. 

Tal mouses — Parmesans 

Make a filling similar t<> cream pull' paste as follows: Take 
1 pint of milk, 2 ounces butter; let come to a boil. Add (5 outlet's 
(lour, and mix into a smooth paste. Take oil' the lire, and add 
by degrees >"> ounces grated Parmesan cheese or hard Ameri- 
can cheese, mix and add "J ' -j ounces sugar, a pinch of salt, 
some nutmeg and the grated rind of half a lemon, 1 yolks, and 
about one-half cupful of cream, to make a paste not too soft. 
Roll out pull" paste ' ,», inch thick and cut rounds :>'/2 inches 
in diameter, wash with water. Fill a spoonful of the cheese 
paste in the center. Fold up the sides over the paste to form 
a three-cornered-hat shape. Fgg wash, hake and glace with 
sugar. Another cheese filling is made as follows: Mix •/•> 
pound dry cheese curd with 3 ounces sugar, 3 yolks, I ._> ounce 
cornstarch, a little grated lemon rind, and nutmeg. Roll out 
puff paste and cut in :>U-inch squares. Fill a spoonful of 
cheese in center. Fold the four corners of the paste to the 
center, overlapping slightly. Egg wash, bake, and glace as 
usual. 

Other Small Puff or French Pastries 

The preceding recipes show how quite a large variety of 
puff pastries may be made. The size should correspond with 
the price obtained, and it is always best to make them of a size 
so they may be sold with other small fancy cakes in an assort- 
ment. Decorations and fillings may be varied by using the 
many icings and fillings. 

Small Puff Pastries and Tarts 

A variety of tartlets are made in different ways, by alter- 
ing their form and design, masking them with meringue, or 

129 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



decorating them with various icings, or using different col- 
ored jellies and French fruit glaces. These tartlets are known 
by the French names of "Darioles," "Mirlitons" and "Fanchon- 
ettes." These tartlets are made by lining small forms with 
puff paste, filling and baking them with custards of different 
flavors. The top is finished in many ways. 

"Darioles" 

Line tins and fill with a custard made of 1 pint milk or 
cream, 5 ounces sugar, 6 yolks, 1 ounce cornstarch, then add 
4 ounces crushed macaroons. When baked they are usually 
served plain, with a star of whipped cream or butter cream in 
center. 

Darioles au Cafe are filled with coffee-flavored custard. 
Darioles au Vanilla are filled with vanilla-flavored custard. 

"Mirlitons" 

Mirlitons are filled with different nut creams or partly filled 
with preserves, and covered with the custard. 

Fanchonettes 

Fanchonettes are made in many ways, filled with custards, 
pastry creams mixed with nuts ; chocolate or preserved fruit 
is filled in the bottom. The decoration is made more or less 
elaborate by piping fancy designs of meringue, these designs 
decorated again with bright jellies or different colored fon- 
dant, or sprinkled with chopped nuts. These tartlets are 
named, according to fillings used, Fanchonettes a la Vanilla, 
Fanchonettes au Chocolate, Fanchonettes aux Amandes 
(almonds), and, if filled with fruits, fresh or preserved or in 
combinations, Fanchonettes aux Fruits, or aux Apricots, aux 
Peches, etc. 

A small French tartlet is made like the usual patty shell 
and baked in the same way. These are finished after baking, 
dipped in strong syrup boiled to the crack degree and sprinkled 
with various chopped nuts, or dipped or masked with hot fruit 
jelly and covered with nuts, etc. All the different fruits and 
preserves are used singly or in combinations, and the tarts are 
named accordingly. These go by the names of Petite Vol au 
Vents, aux Fruits or a la creme, etc. 

130 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Many other styles of tarts are made l>y Continental con- 
fectioners. Tart forms are lined with short paste, or baked 
cases of puff paste are made and tilled as required. Fruits in 
season are used, also the preserved fruits. A large variety of 
apple fillings, fresh or preserved, have proved good sellers. 
All these pastries, it' made carefully and made to look pretty, 
are now classed under French pastries, but are known under 
many other names in different localities. 

FRENCH PASTRIES— POPULAR AND EASY 

As Made and Decorated by Ernest Trail, Head Pastry Chef, 
Morrison Hotel, Chicago 

All the goods pictured in these illustrations are typical of 
the fine and wonderfully varied line produced in the com- 
missary of the Hotel Morrison, Chicago, under the direction 
of Mr. Trau. The French pastries served in the dining rooms 
of the hotel, as well as in the Rose Pastry Shop connected 
with it, and sold over the counter in the latter, constitute a 
very important item in the immense quantity and variety of 
high-class baked goods made and disposed of by the Morrison 
Hotel organization. Some idea of the popularity they enjoy 
may be formed from the statement that the counter sales of 
the macaroon pastries, for instance, in the Rose Pastry Shop, 
run from one hundred and eighty dozen to two hundred dozen 
daily, and have reached the high mark of three hundred dozen 
in a single day. 

Mr. Trau was trained in the conditor's art in Europe, and 
his experience has been acquired in a number of responsible 
associations. In Chicago he was connected with the Sherman 
and La Salle Hotels, and with the famous Rector establish- 
ment, before forming his present association with the Mor- 
rison Hotel, where he came to open up the new hotel. For 
several years Mr. Trau was president of the Pastry Cooks' and 
Confectioners' organization. 

The beautiful appearance of these cakes would indicate 
that the work is elaborate in detail and requires much time 
for execution, but Mr. Trau insists that any baker, who will 
take the trouble to spend a little time in practice, can soon 
attain skill enough to decorate them artistically and rapidly. 

131 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



The steadily increasing popularity of these goods makes it 
desirable for every baker who wants to develop his cake trade 
to carry them. Much time is saved by systematizing the 
work, and quick, dexterous handling also produces better 
looking goods. 

Every morsel of these cakes is edible, a feature now gen- 
erally demanded in goods of this character. They must look 
well, but they must also eat well. Practically all of these 
goods have been dressed with butter cream, which is the 
popular covering except in the warm summer season, when 
they are made with marshmallow. Marshmallow, in fact, may 
be substituted for the butter cream in any of these specialties, 
but the eating qualities are, of course, not so tempting, and 
for the highest class of goods there is nothing that can take 
the place of the butter creams. Pure butter and shell eggs 
are always used for high-class goods. For flavor and real 
goodness, no substitutes can ever produce cakes that will com- 
pare in standing the test of satisfying quality trade. 

Butter sponge cake was used for the white goods in the 
various French pastries here pictured. F'or the chocolate 
goods chocolate butter sponge cake was used. 

Except for the Othellos, which are dressed on the pan with 
a large pastry tube, these are all cut from the large butter 
sponge sheet, and the skillful baker will see that the cutting 
is done without waste of a particle of cake. 

Pastry cream is used in the Othellos and other filled goods, 
and the sides are finished with chopped almonds which have 
been blanched, candied and roasted. In some ground filberts 
are used mixed with the filling pastry cream. 

Some of the flower decorations are made with split almonds 
with leaves of green butter cream. Some of the designs are 
outlined with chocolate couverture. 

In planning his work, the discriminating baker will be care- 
ful to choose the color and flavoring for each of the various 
creams to correspond, and also to select the most appropriate 
design for his materials and colors. 

These things are a few of the fundamentals that the baker 
will do well to master before he undertakes the making of 

132 





CAKES loi: BAKERS 








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133 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



these goods in any quantities. The illustrations are plain 
enough to serve for a reliable guide. 

Detailed Description — First Illustration 

The light square in the upper left hand corner of the first 
group shown has a smoothly covered top with pistachio halves 
laid in a circle around the decorations of light butter cream 
in the center. Four white butter cream stars finish the 
corners, with smaller stars of chocolate butter cream between. 
A dot of jelly finishes the center decoration. 

The three-cornered chocolate piece, next to it, has a wide 
border of white dotted at the three corners with cherries. The 
center is filled in with chocolate, striped with marshmallow. 

No. 3 has a plain maple border. The light currant jelly 
which covers the top is decorated with four pistachio nuts, and 
jelly dots set off the marshmallow trimmings at the comers 
and the center. 

No. 4 has a chocolate covering dressed with butter cream 
and fondant icing. The heavy stripe across the center is 
dressed on first, while the cake is in the pan, before being 
separated into the small cuts, after which the chocolate cover- 
ing and decorations are put on. 

The crescent in the center has a covering of white vanilla 
cream, with chocolate ring on either side. A dot of jelly in 
each of the rings, and pistachio nuts on the white cream, show 
up well as finishing touches. 

The flower-trimmed piece at the right is, according to the 
decorator, very plain and simple work, in spite of the fact that 
it is highly effective. It has a maple top. A stem of white 
butter cream is dressed high on the cake before icing. This 
makes it set up well, and is much more effective than a flat 
decoration. When the maple icing has been put on, the stem 
and leaf are outlined with chocoJate couverture, and the flower 
is made with star tube, finished with a little dot. The leaf 
is filled in with green jelly. 

No. 7 has a combination chocolate and vanilla butter cream 
top, with a dot of jelly setting off the ring in the center. 

No. 8 is a chocolate covered Othello, very rich looking. 
The top is crossed over with double lines, filled in with marsh- 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




135 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mallow. It is trimmed with outlines of chocolate couverture 
and little dots of marshmallow. 

The last piece shown in this picture is finished with vanilla 
butter cream put on with star tube in dots on border all 
around, a row of chocolate dots on the edge and vanilla circle 
inside. 

Second Illustration 

The round chocolate piece at the upper left-hand corner 
has top decorations of vanilla half rings, around four cherries. 
Small decorations of chocolate butter cream, laid on with star 
tube, finish the center and between the rings. 

The small diamond to the right is made entirely of choco- 
late, with chocolate butter cream dressed under the icing. 
Chopped pistachio nuts are used on top of the wide cross bar, 
and couverture lines are used for finishing on either side. 

Below is a maple square with little flowers made of pista- 
chio beans around a white center. Four white stars at the 
corners, with little chocolate stars in between, complete this 
dainty piece. 

The triangle next displayed is a chocolate piece finished 
with chocolate and marshmallow, with three cherries set in 
the scroll. 

The Othello in the lower left-hand corner has four loops 
outlined in couverture, filled in between the lines with marsh- 
mallow, and pistachio nuts on top. 

Next to it is a plain white vanilla piece. The high center 
is dressed on the cake first and piled high under the icing 
which is finished with couverture and four stars with dots 
between, as shown. 

A chocolate cake with vanilla and chocolate decoration 
laid on with star tube, completes this group. 

Third Illustration 

Of this assortment of small pastries all are decorated with 
chocolate butter cream except three, which are covered with 
icing. The round pieces are made from the Othello mixture. 

The decoration on the first piece shown are begun by put- 
ting on sufficient yellow butter cream for the raised pear. 

136 



CAKES FOR BAKKItS 



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137 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



The piece is then put in the ice box to set, and afterward 
covered over with fondant icing, the yellow covering of the 
butter cream used for the pear foundation showing very 
effectively through the white. 

Two or three of the other pieces are decorated on top with 
rings of light butter cream, filled with apricot jelly colored to 




French Pastries- 



suggest leaves and flowers. Candied cherries and currant 
jelly also are used very effectively in these ways. 

The small round piece in the lower right-hand coiner has a 

138 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

ring of vanilla butter cream around the outer edge, smaller 
ring of chocolate within, and is finished with a cherry. 

The chocolate pieces are Othellos, iced with light chocolate, 
the finishing touches made with chocolate couverture. 

Some of the flower decorations are made of split almonds 
with leaves of green butter cream. Pistachio beans as well 
as split almonds are very easily applied for dainty floral 
effects. Stems, leaves and flowers may be outlined with 
chocolate couverture. leaves and blossoms filled with apricot 
jelly appropriately colored. 

Fourth illustration 

The three handsome pieces grouped together arc samples 
of the macaroons supreme in which Mr. Trau takes great 
pride. The foundation is made of egg white with almond 
meringue, and the three pieces illustrated are finished respec- 
tively in maple, vanilla ami chocolate. The sides are masked 
with candied nuts. They arc the most popular sellers in the 
Rose Pastry Shop. 

Fifth Illustration 

The delicate touches of the skilled decorator are shown in 
many of the details of the attractive pieces in this illustration. 
For instance, the pear decoration on the piece in the lower 
right-hand corner is laid on the cake first in butter cream, with 
a covering of red sugar which shows through the icing applied 
later, giving life to the imitated fruit without the strong color- 
ing which would detract from its daintiness and appetizing 
appearance. The stem is outlined with chocolate couverture. 

The round chocolate piece above has a flower of marsh- 
mallow with chocolate clot in the center. The stem is out- 
lined w T ith chocolate couverture. 

In the lower left-hand corner is shown a piece with simple 
but effective decorations. The leaves and stem are outlined 
in chocolate butter cream, the sweet peas made of pink butter 
cream. 

The center piece is chocolate iced, the bird and dots at the 
corner being laid on in marshmallow. 

The diamond-shaped piece in the lower row has a border of 

139 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




cakks roi; MAKERS 



white butter cream, with four pistachio nuts arranged at the 
corners, and red jelly dots forming a pleasing contrast. 

Red jelly and pistachio nuts are used oil the square in the 
upper row, combined with dots of chocolate and white butter 
cream. 

The square piece in the lower row has a center decoration 
of almonds and butter cream, a cherry in the center, and 
border of maple with chocolate d<»ts. a little marshmallow 
being used to finish off. Currant and apricot jellies are mixed 
to get the proper shade for flower decorations. 

Observe that one of the main points in the successful dec- 
oration of these cakes is mastering the art of Combining the 
colors and flavors that blend together best. 

Sixth Illustration 

The first pic.-c illustrated in this group is chocolate pastry. 
another of the kind which Mr. Trau calls very plain and easy' 
to make. Four half moons of the light butter cream, each 
finished with a candied cherry, with center star and small 
decorations of chocolate butter cream, put on witli star tube, 
between the half moons, constitute the simple decorations. 

No. 2 is a vanilla and chocolate confection whose decora- 
tion shows up very plainly. This is an Othello covere.i with 
butter cream and finished with scroll designs. 

Next to it is a maple covered piece with scroll design in 
chocolate couverture. Between the double lines are dots of 
red jelly. 

In the right-hand corner is shown a square piece with 
maple top and maple decorations. Four half cherries dot the 
butter cream covering, and half a pistachio nut is laid in the 
center. 

The sweet pea decoration on the lower piece is made on a 
foundation of butter cream put on underneath the icing. After 
being iced, the stem is outlined with couverture and the leaf 
is filled in with green jelly. The blossom is of butter cream. 

The round piece in the center has a chocolate border put on 
with star tube, and vanilla center dotted with jelly. 

For number 7 foundation for two cherries was dressed on 
top of the cake in butter cream, with a little red sugar on top 

141 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




142 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



for coloring, just enough to show through the white icing laid 
on afterwards. After the icing is done, two couverture stems 
were dressed as shown, finished at the top with green leaves 
made of angelica. This piece can be iced in pink if desired. 

Seventh Illustration 

The two Othellos shown at the top of the picture are butter 
cream pieces. The first has a top icing of maple with design 
outlined in the chocolate couverture; the loops are filled with 
currant jelly. On the second, the (lowers are of marshmal- 

low, and stems of chocolate couverture with leaves in green. 

The next piece is a white crescent with chocolate decora- 
tions. Half pistachio nuts, with cherry halves between, are 
laid in a semicircle, and cherries are set in the white decora- 
tions at the comers. 

No. 4 is a plain chocolate cake with almond and cherry 
decorations at the three corners. The red and white flowerets 
are well offset by the chocolate coloring, the combination being 
very effective. 

The round piece next to this is of butter cream, a choco- 
late cake with white border and white cross laid in with choco- 
late butter cream. It is finished up with cherries as illus- 
trated. 

In the lower corner is a chocolate piece with decorations 
laid in with currant jelly. Split almonds were used for trim- 
ming. 

Next to this is shown a vanilla piece with chocolate and 
maple decorations, whole cherries being used for the center 
finish. 

The diamond at the lower right-hand corner has maple 
decorations with cherry in the center surrounded by marsh- 
mallow dots. Four half pistachio nuts are used at the corners 
to give the finishing touches. 

OTHELLO AND MERINGUE MIXTURES 

Othello mixtures and also meringue mixtures vary, and in 
preparing the fancy pastries illustrated much is left to the 
skill and individual taste of the maker. 

143 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 









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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Othellos or Bouchees de Dames 

No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 pound (or pint) yolks. 

2 pounds (or 1 quart) egg whites, 20 ounces cake flour, 3 
ounces cornstarch. Flavor of vanilla or grated rind of one 
lemon. 

No. 2 — 12 ounces sugar, 2 1 yolks, 18 egg whites. 12 ounces 
Hour. 1 1 -j ounces cornstarch, flavor of vanilla or lemon. 

Method of working: Beat egg whites to a stiff snow, heat- 
ing in about 2 ounces of the sugar. Stir yolks lightly with 
balance of sugar and add flavoring. Mix both parts lightly as 
for lady fingers, then draw in the flour and starch. Dress 
on papered pans, using bag and plain tube, in large drops of 
about 2 inches in diameter which will spread in baking to 
about 2' -j inches. Other shapes, such as ovals, bean, apple 
and pear shapes and others, may be made from the same 
mixture. 

The same mixture is sometimes used to fill tart tins lined 
with short paste or pull' paste. A little good jam is filled in 
the bottom and the tin filled to three-fourths with Othello 
mixture. When baked these cakes are iced in many ways. 

The regular Othello is usually filled with a good cream or 
with whipped cream, two halves being set together with a 
little of the bottom side scooped out to leave room for the 
filling. Then they are set on wires and fully iced with boiled 
chocolate icing, quickly dried in the oven to hold the gloss. 
Bouchees de Dames, or Desdemonas, are often glaced with 
white fondant, and red cheeks are put on, using carmine and 
a soft piece of cotton. 

One Othello and one Desdemona are usually served together 
in French pastry shops, to represent the two star actors in 
Shakespeare's drama. Tn the illustrations the Othellos are 
more elaborately decorated, and the description of decorations 
is given. 

Almond Meringues 

Almond meringue is made by the cold or warm process, 
adding sugar and fine ground almonds, passed through a sieve, 
to the mixture. Crushed and sifted macaroons, or browned 
almonds or croquant are used also, in the place of almonds. 

145 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Hot Meringue : Boil 2 pounds granulated sugar and 1 pint 
water to 250 degrees. Run this boiled syrup slowly into a 
scant pint of stiffly beaten egg whites, and lastly draw in 1 
pound or less of the sifted almonds. 

Cold Process: Beat up the egg whites cold to a stiff mer- 
ingue, beating in 1/2 pound sugar, mixed with % pound of 
sifted almonds, 2 ounces starch or rice flour. Then use bag 
and tube and dress on lightly greased and dustedi pans, or on 
paper, in the desired shapes. Cases may be made by dressing 
a bottom of desired diameter or about 3 to 4 inches wide, also 
rings of the same diameter as the bottom ; a top may also be 
made if desired, consisting of a ring as a border, center in 
open fashion, in lattice. The meringues are dried in a slow 
heat, and when perfectly dry are set together. The bottom 
and rings are fastened together with royal iring or fruit jam, 
and the filling may consist of combinations of whipped cream, 
fruits, and nut meats, or special creams mixed with browned 
almond or macaroons. For quick service the filling may con- 
sist of fancy ice creams or mousse glace, etc. 

MOCHA CAKES— BUTTER CREAM CAKES 

In the "French Pastry Shops" quite a large variety of 
cakes are made and given special names to go by, but are also 
termed French Pastry. The best grades of these cakes are 
made with a foundation of good Genoise or pound cake baked 
in thick sheets or from a good light sand torte or Vienna 
butter sponge, and others simply from a common plain sponge 
cake or from some plain jelly roll mixture. Two thin sheets 
are cut and put together, or the thick sheets are cut in strips, 
sliced and filled with butter cream or jam. Some of the cake 
mixtures are also baked in cups, small heart shapes, or in 
rings to save the cutting or trimming. After being filled with 
various flavored and colored creams or other fillings, the strips 
are finished on top by running a strip of cream on each side 
and a good strip of jam is run along the center. The finished 
strips are then cut in bars or slices, using a knife dipped in 
hot water before each cut. When making individual cakes 
the slices are filled and cut in triangles, squares or diamonds 

146 



(AUKS FOR RAKERS 



which make the least trimmings, the top and sides are masked 
with some of the filling and finished in various ways. 

The other crumby mixtures which cannot be dipped easily 
are tilled, cut in pieces and set on wire trays a little apart, 
and the icing or the warm fondant is poured over the pieces, 
covering them entirely. Before the icing sets, each piece is 
decorated with a dot of icing, scrolls. French fruit, etc. The 
1 »utter cream lillm.es are the most popular and easily made. 
the sides of each piece are brushed with some of the filling 
and covered with COCOanut, browned almonds or roasted fil- 
berts. The center is decorated in various ways; if butter 
cream is used this cream is made slightly firmer to keep its 
shape well. 

Quite a large variety of these cakes can be made by using 
the different fillings and icings in pleasing combinations, keep- 
ing in mind that the dry sponge cakes require a moister filling 
than the richer pound and Genoise cake. By using fruit 
flavored icings and fruit fillings in the warm season, the richer 
cream fillings during the cooler months, a constant variety 
may be produced. These small individual cakes sell by the 
piece at from 10 to L5 cents each. Special fancy cakes sell 
for higher prices. 

One method of making small dipped cake is to bake very 
thin sheets of cake. Put these together in from three to six 
layers, with various fillings, then cut in pieces and dip or cover 
with various colored and flavored icings and decorate as fancy 
directs. 

Small Fancy Cakes Made from Short Paste 

Use almond short paste or other short paste, or a combina- 
tion made of puff paste and short paste (see Alliance Tartlet). 
Roll out and cut small figures in pairs, such as crescents, 
squares, rounds, stars, heart shapes, etc. Set on pans and 
bake, then sandwich together with firm fillings. These may be 
dipped and finished in many ways. 

Small Fancies from Sponge Cake Mixture 

Use a good ladyfmger mixture or prepare a special mixture 
from 24 to 28 eggs, separated, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1^4 

147 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




148 



CAKES POK RAKKKS 



pounds flour. Stir yolks light with three-fourths of sugar, 
beat up whites and beat one-fourth of the sugar, then add 
whites to yolks and draw in the flour. Flavor with lemon or 

vanilla. La\ this mixture out with bag and plain tube in 

fancy shapes on paper, bake in medium heat about 320 de- 
Sandwich together in pairs, dip and decorate. 
Another variety of cakes may be made by baking fancy 
shapes from the regular plain macaroon paste and sand- 
wiching these together, or using a similar shape baked of 
slmrt paste or sponge cake or of meringue paste; sandwich 
or till and dip, and decorate. The fancy cakes when finished 

may be placed in fancy crimped paper cases when put on sale. 



149 



VIII. COOKIES OR HARD CAKES 
HOW TO WORK THEM 



The production of small cakes is a very important branch 
of cake making and a certain skill is required to get them 
perfect. A very large proportion of cookies is now made in 
the cracker factories, where special machines are used for 
the different kinds. Some mixtures are made firmer than the 
hand-made cookies, run out on a panning machine and cut 
out with various cutters. A bar attachment is used on the 
same machine for bar goods. A soft cake depositing machine 
is used for other goods and a similar machine used by cake 
bakers to facilitate quick work. 

For the hand-made cookies a general rule is not to toughen 
the mixture by overworking when adding the flour. Soft 
short winter wheat flour is best adapted for such goods. Some 
mixtures are improved by giving time to rest after mixing. 
Mixtures are best worked up in a cool place. Salt must be 
added when using saltless fats. 

Some mixtures which contain fruit are best made up with- 
out rolling out and cutting out. The mixtures are better 
worked by rolling out in strips and cutting with knife or 
scraper into pieces, usually from 12 to 16 to a pound. The 
pieces are then rounded up and set on greased pans, taking 
care to get them far enough apart. A small board with a 
strip for a handle is used to flatten the pieces evenly. Some 
cookies are washed with an egg-wash before baking, others 
are turned on the pan, after being flattened, into granulated 
sugar or on chopped nutmeats before baking. Some bakers 
sprinkle sugar on the rolled out sheet of paste before cutting 
out the cakes. Some cookies are baked in steam. This makes 
them spread and gives a nice crack, and where no steam is 
available the cookies may be dampened with a wet cloth or 
washed to make them spread better. Spices and flavorings 
should be employed with discretion. Egg coloring is often 
used in low-priced goods. 

150 



CAKES POP B \KERS 

St OTt || SHORTBRE \l> 

Shortbreads are very popular. Only best butter should be 
used for the best grades, but a good shortcake may be made 
by using half butter and half high-grade butterine. It is said 
that thf real shortbread should be made without any moisten- 
ing, but it is preferable to add egg or a little milk without 
depreciating the quality. Use a Boft rich winter wheat flour 
and a not t<><. finely ground powdered sugar. 

No. l — l pounds Hour. - to 2' i pounds butter, l pound 
sugar, 2 eggs or yolks of egj 

No. 2 2 pounds Hour, l ' - pounds butter, ;: i pound sugar, 
gs, L-5 ounce baking soda. 

No. 3 2 pounds flour, 1 pound butter, ' •_- pound sugar, 3 

Method of mixing: Rub sugar with eggs, then rub with 
the butter, not creaming, simply mixing in, then draw in 

nearly all of the Mom- except a handful. .Mix into a medium 

soft paste without warming the mixture, then add the re- 
maining flour. After the dough has rested for a while in a 
cool place it is ready for scaling in pieces and moulding in 
blocks, or for rolling out in various shape-, pinching up the 
edg 's to form a fancy border. The cakes are usually docked 

with a fork or special docker. Plain round pieces or hlock 
shortbreads may be decorated with a piece of citron or half 
a candied cherry or sprinkled with caraway comfits. Large 
shortbreads are baked in hoops to protect the sides. These 
pieces are often decorated with fondant and French fruit 
glaces and royal icing, crystallized fruit, or otherwise as fancy 
directs. 

Small Fancy Shortbreads 

Roll the shortbread dough about ' -j. inch thick, cut in 
rounds measuring from 2 to 3 inches with scalloped cutter, 
set on pans. Then make an almond short paste, mixing 4 
ounces ground almonds, 1*4 pounds butter, 10 ounces pow- 
dered sugar, 11/4 pounds flour and 2 yolks to a smooth paste. 
Dress with large grooved star tube and bag in various designs 
or in border shape on the cut-out pieces and bake. 

For plainer cakes mix •% pound butter, 1 pound sugar, 1/2 
pint yolks, V2 pint milk, 2 pounds flour and 14 ounce baking 
powder. Dress on the cut-out cakes with bag and star tube. 

151 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Bake and decorate the cakes after baking, using various col- 
ored and flavored icings. Chocolate may be worked into the 
pastes for another variety. 

COOKIES 

Fig Newtons or Fig Bars 

Mix together 3 pounds bread flour, V/% pounds sugar, 
2 ounces baking powder, a pinch salt. Rub in 12 ounces 
lard and mix with l'/2 pints milk into a smooth rolling paste; 
flavor as desired. Roll out into l / 8 -inch-thick sheet, cut in 
3-inch-wide strips. Spread some ready-made fig jam with 
bag and flat tube in the center, fold the sides over the jam, 
and set strips on pan. Mark in bars, and cut after baking, or 
cut in pieces before baking. 

Fruit or Brown Cookies 

Eight pounds brown sugar, or, if granulated sugar is used, 
add 1 pint molasses, 4 pounds compound, $i/£ pints eggs, 
8 pounds seedless raisins, 2 ounces spices, 31/2 ounces ammonia 
dissolved in 1 quart milk, 12 pounds cake flour. Mix makes 
42 dozen. 

Eggless Crumb Cookies 

Soak 3 pounds cake crumbs in 1 quart water, add 3 ounces 
soda; rub together 2 x /-> pounds sugar; IV2 pounds shortening, 
IV2 ounces spices, V/2 pints molasses; mix with crumbs and 
water, then add 5*4 pounds cake flour. Cut out with 2 1/0-inch 
cutter, lay in granulated sugar, set on pans, make a dent in 
center, fill in a drop of jelly and bake. Mixture makes 18 to 
19 dozen cookies. 

Cocoanut Crescents 

One quart egg whites, 3 pounds macaroon cocoanut, V-i 
pound flour, 5 pounds granulated sugar. Mix ingredients in 
kettle set in hot water to warm mixture, let cool, and dress 
out with bag and plain tube on paper or flour-dusted greased 
pans, in crescent shape. Mix should make 12 dozen cakes. 

152 



IKES FOR BAKERS 

Brov. ii « ookie Mixture 

Two : granulated Bugar, l pound compound, 1 or 5 

1 ounce soda, ' - pint or more molasses, l pound cur- 
rants, ' -j pint water, flavor sufficient to make a smooth 
rolling mixture. Add Bpices, cut out with 2%-inch cutter. 
Makes l") dozen cookies. 

Fine Ginger Nuts 

Five pounds Bugar, •"> pounds lard, •'• ounces salt, -'- ounces 
soda. Mix together, add l ounce ginger, 2 pints molasses, l ' _. 
pints water, 9 poui ake flour. 

I ni\ ersal ( ookie Mixture 

•i pounds sugar, •"•'■j pounds shortening, l pint eggs, 
2 quarts milk, i"« pounds cake dour sifted with L2 ounces 
baking powder. Mix may be divided and part of it mixed 
with chopped nut meat.-, cocoanut, fruit, peel, caraway seed, 
left plain. or washed and Bprinkled with coarse sugar, etc. 
Bake in 375 degre es Fahr. 

Peanut Slices, Umond Bread 

One pound cake crumbs, 1 pound BUgar, I pound Hour, 

aboul 8 eggs, ' - pound shelled blanched peanuts or almonds, 
'i ounce cinnamon, j .. ounce ammonia. Make into a firm 
dough, cut over several times with a sharp knife to cut the 
nuts in smaller pieces, Form in long strips set on greased 
pans, flatten and wash with egg. Bake In medium heat. Cut 
in slices when baked. 

Chocolate Almond Bread 

Three-quarters pound sugar, ;! i pound Hour. 1 ' ._. pounds 
cake crumbs, ' -j pound raw almonds, 6 eggs, '/). ounce am- 
monia, 2 ounces melted chocolate or cocoa, U ounce cinna- 
mon and cloves. Mix and work like peanut slices, make in 
strips \-2 inch thick, bake and ice with vanilla, and cut in 
slices while warm. 

Sugar Cookies 

No. 1 — 4'o pounds sugar, 21/4. pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 
1 quart milk, 4 ounces cream tartar (phosphate), 2 ounces 

153 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



soda, flavor of mace and vanilla, 9 pounds cake flour. Mix- 
ture makes 25 dozen. Cut out with 3-inch plain cutter. Bake 
in 375 degrees. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, lV-z pounds compound, 3 eggs, 
lemon flavor, 114 quarts buttermilk, 2 ounces ammonia, 614 
pounds soft cake flour. Mix and cream sugar, shortening and 
eggs, dissolve the ammonia in the milk, then add flour. Bake 
in good heat. Mix makes 12 to 14 dozen. 

Lemon Cookies — Fruit Cookies 

4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter and lard, 1 pint eggs, 1 
pint milk, 6 pounds flour, 4 ] / 2 ounces baking powder, lemon 
flavor. For fruit cookies add V2 pound finely chopped citron, 
2 to 3 pounds sultanas. Mix like sugar cookies, cut out, wash 
with egg. Roll fruit cookies in strips, round up, set on pans, 
flatten and wash with egg, bake in 350 to 375 degrees. Mix 
makes 20 dozen. 

Oatmeal Cookies 

No. 1 — 3 pounds brown sugar, V/o pounds lard, % ounce 
soda, % ounce cinnamon, i/ 2 pint yolks, 1/2 pint water, 3 
pounds flour, 2 pounds rolled oats, 114 pounds seedless raisins. 
Mix and work like fruit cookies, wash with eggs, turn on pan 
in granulated sugar. Bake in 350 degrees. Mix makes 10 
dozen. 

No. 2 — 114 pounds sugar, % pound lard, 1 ounce soda, mix 
in bowl, add % pint molasses, 1/2 pint milk, then add V/» 
pounds flour, V2 ounce cream of tartar, . 1/2 ounce ammonia, 
and IV2 pounds bulk oatmeal. Cut with 2 14-inch cutter, wash 
with egg- wash. Mix makes from 8 to 9 dozen. 

Molasses Cookies 

No. 1 — 6 pounds granulated sugar, 3 pounds lard, 2 quarts 
molasses, 2 quarts water, 4 ounces soda, 1 ounce cinnamon, 
1/2 ounce ginger, V 2 ounce cloves, 16 pounds flour. Makes 30 
dozen. Rub sugar, lard and spices together, add molasses, 
water and soda, then flour. Cut with 3-inch scalloped cutter. 
Bake on lightly greased pans, in 350 degrees Fahr., with a 
little steam. If no steam, wash with water. 

154 






CAKES FOR BAKERS 

No. 2 — - quarts molasses, | •_■ pound melted lard. 7 pounds 
flour, l pint milk, 2 ounces soda, spices. Wash with egg and 

milk and bake in slew oven, 

Bolivars 

2 quarts molasses, l quail milk, l pound lard. 1 ounces 
soda, l ounce ginger, l ounce mixed Bpice, 9 pounds Hour. 

Scotch Cookies 

N". l l ! -j pounds granulated sugar, 2'- pounds com- 
pound, L6 eggs, l quart molasses. : *. ■ - ounces soda dissolved 
in a little water. 8 1 g pounds flour, cinnamon, allspice, lemon. 
Cut out with plain 3-inch cutter, egg wash, bake in 350 de- 
No. 2—6 pounds sugar, _'-j pounds lard, 5 eggs, | -j pint 
molasses. 1 quart milk, 2V£ ounces soda. Si. j pounds flour, 

spices to suit taste. 

Crumb Cookies 

No. 1 — 2 pounds c sugar, W/\ pounds shortening, 1 quart 

molasses, 5 eggs, 1 ' -j pints water. 3V£ ounces soda sifted in 
6 pounds Hour, 3 pounds eak • crumbs, spices as required. 

No. 2 — Put 3 pounds crumbs, 1 quart water, ;! i quart mo- 
lasses, :'. ounces soda in bowl, mix. add cinnamon and lemon, 
add 2' -j pounds SUgar, 1 ( •_> pounds lard, mix, and add •",!._, 
pounds flour. Cut with 2' -.-inch plain cutter, dip in sugar. 
A little jelly may be put in a dent made in the center. Mix 
makes 18 to 19 dozen. 

Soft Ginger Cookies 

Mix 2 '-j pounds sugar, l'-j pounds lard, 1 ounces soda, and 
cinnamon and ginger in a bowl, add 2 quarts molasses, 1 quart 
milk. Then add lO 1 /* pounds flour. Cut out with 3-inch scal- 
loped cutter, wash with milk. Mix makes 20 dozen. 

Honey Cookies 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 3 quarts honey, 10 eggs, 3 ounces 
soda, i/ 2 pint water, 13 pounds flour. Rub sugar and eggs, add 
honey and soda, dissolved in water. Work, mix well on the 

155 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



bench for 10 minutes. Bake sample and if cookie flattens too 
much the dough requires more working. Grease pans and wet 
lightly with brush to prevent cookies from sliding while being 
washed with the syrup. Bake in 350 degrees. Mix makes 
32 dozen. Cut with plain cutter. Syrup for wash: Dissolve 
1 pound icing sugar in scant V2 P m t of water. 

Imitation Honey Cookies 

No. 2—2 pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds shortening, 1 quart 
artificial or pure honey, 1 quart light-colored molasses, 1 scant 
quart milk, 3 ounces soda, 10 pounds flour, flavor mace and 
lemon. This mixture is also made with fruit, adding lV-j ounces 
spices, 1 pound mixed peel (citron and orange) and 1 pound 
currants or seeded raisins, run through meat grinder. Mix 
and treat like No. 1. Wash with syrup, and bake in 350 
degrees. 

Hermits 

4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, IV2 pints eggs, 1 pint 
molasses, 1 pint milk, li/o ounces soda, 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce 
mixed spice, 5 to 6 pounds currants and seedless raisins, Y% 
ounce ginger, 7 pounds flour. Roll out and cut y± inch thick 
with 2-inch cutter, wash with milk. Cocoanut may be added 
with less fruit, or mincemeat may be used in a softer mixture 
which can be dropped out like a drop cake, on greased and 
flour-dusted pans. 

Dark Fruit Cookies 

Rub together 2i/ { . pounds sugar, 1 pound 2 ounces com- 
pound, 6 eggs; add 1/2 pint molasses, i/£ pint water, 1 ounce 
soda dissolved in water, then 3 pounds 14 ounces soft flour. 
When partly mixed put in % pound currants or chopped rais- 
ins, season with cinnamon and cloves, add salt. Roll out and 
cut with 3-inch plain cutter. Wash with milk and egg. Mix 
makes about 14 dozen. Cookie improves if a day old. 

Rough and Ready, or Log Cabin Cookies 

3 pounds sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 10 whole eggs, 5 
yolks, 1 quart milk, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces cream of tartar 

15C • 



>R BAK E RS 

(or I ounces baking powder), 6 pounds cake Hour. Flavor 
with mace and lemon. Mi\ as usual, set on pans, dip in sugar 
then mark crosswise with a fork or cardboard. Bake in 860 

Graham Cookies 

". pounds sugar, 1 ' - pounds shortening, l pint eggs, l ' £ 
pints milk. 2 pounds Graham flour, - ounces cake Hour, _'-j 
ounces baking powder. Mix as usual. Drop on greased pans 
like drop cakes. May be washed and Bprinkled with coarse 
sugar. 

Bran Cookies 

Cream 2Vfc pounds sugar, l pound shortening, | - pint eggs, 

1 pint milk, ' - ounce ammonia together; add l ' ._. pounds 
bran l ' - pounds cake Sour to make a smooth dough. Roll 

OUl and cut thin, same as lemon snaps. Bake in .".on degrees. 

Flavor with vanilla or with spices. 

Spanish Cookies 

:'.'- pounds sugar, l pound lard. 3 pounds crumbs, •"» pounds 

flour, 5 eggs, I ' i pints milk. ' ■_. .Miner ammonia. j ■_> ounce 
SOda, 1 pound chopped fruit, raisins or eurrants, j ._> ounce 
mixed spices. Mix as usual. Cut in 1-oiince pieces, roll in 
ovals, and flatten on pan. Dip on pan in sugar, bake in 
medium heat. 

Peanut Cookies 

2 pounds sugar, l'i pounds shortening, 1 pint yolks, '/•> 
pint milk, flavor of mace. 1 pounds Hour. 2 ounces baking- 
powder. Mix as usual, cut out in shapes desired, wash and 
sprinkle with chopped peanuts. Bake in medium oven. 

Cocoanut Cookies 

Cream together 2 pounds sugar, 1*4 pounds cocoa butter, 

2 pints eggs ; add ' ^ pint honey, 1 1/2 pints milk, 1 1/2 pounds 
macaroon cocoanut, about 414 to 5 pounds flour, 3 ounces bak- 
ing powder, vanilla. Mix and cut out any size desired. Egg-wash 
and sprinkle some coarse desiccated cocoanut on top. Medium 
oven. 

157 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Chocolate Cookies 

2 pounds sugar, '/.> pound butter, 8 eggs, 1 ounce ammonia, 
1/2 ounce cinnamon, V2 pound cocoa or melted chocolate, 2 
pounds cake flour. Mix smooth with very little milk. Bake 
in various shapes. Ice when done. 

Almond Cookies 

Rub IV2 pounds almond paste smooth with 18 eggs and 
add 41/2 pounds dark brown sugar. Add 1 ounce soda, mix 
well, then work in 414 pounds flour. Egg-wash, sprinkle a 
few chopped almonds in center. Cut with 2 1 /2-inch plain cut- 
ter. Mix makes 35 dozen. 

Tea Cookies 

3 pounds brown sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, a little salt, 
creamed together; add 1/2 ounce cinnamon, 14 ounce ginger, 
14 ounce nutmeg and 10 eggs. Dissolve 1/0 ounce soda and 
V2 ounce ammonia in V2 pint water, and mix with 4% pounds 
soft flour. Roll out thin, cut with plain cookie cutter, set on 
table, dampen with wet cloth, and sift icing sugar over cakes, 
then pan and bake in moderate oven. Makes about 20 dozen. 

Lemon Fruit Bar 

3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 pint eggs, scant pint 
water, 2*4 ounces ammonia, lYi pounds flour, lemon flavor, 
IV2 pounds sultanas or currants. Cool oven. 

Almond or Nut Bars, or Cocoanut Bars 

1 pound sugar, 1/2 pound shortening, 3 eggs, V2 pint milk, 
V2 pound short cocoanut, IV2 pounds cake flour, 14 ounce 
baking powder. Or use raw ground almonds or walnuts in 
place of cocoanut. Mix all ingredients to a medium paste, roll 
in strips, set on pans, flatten a little, egg wash and bake. Or 
the strips may be cut on the table and set on the pans, washed 
and baked. 

Dark Fruit Bars 

1 pound sugar, V2 pound lard, 3 eggs, '/i. pint molasses, %, 
158 



:ES 1 OR BAKERS 

pound crumbs, l pound flour, ' - ounce baking powder, l pound 
fruit .Mix like nut bars, 

Cocoanut Bars 

No. l — l pounds Bugar, 2 pounds lard, l pint eggs, l pint 
milk, l ounce ammonia. 2 pounds cocoanut, o ;: i pounds cake 
flmir. Mix and form in strips, Ratten on pans, egg wash, 
Bprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake and cut while warm.. 

Bggleee Cocoanut Bars 

No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, l pound shortening, \ •_• pint mo- 
lasses, l quart milk. 2 pounds short cocoanut, l ounce soda, 

vanilla. 3 pounds Hour. Mix into a soft mass, divss with bag 

and large flat star tube in fingers on greased pans. Bake in 
medium oven. 

Oriental Fruit Bars 

Cream together ' - pound lard, l ' - pounds sugar, 5 eggs, 
1 1 2 pint molasses, ; t ounce cloves, % ounce cinnamon; add 

1 pint milk. 1 1 ■_> ounces soda dissolved in the milk, l 1 - pounds 

flour. Mix with 2 pounds raisins, 1 pound currants. 1 pound 

citron, l pound figs finely chopped, y 2 pound nuts. Scale l j 3 
pound pieces, roll in strips, set on pan-, three strips on each 
pan. flatten, egg wash and bake in 320 degrees. Let cool. 
liars improve if a day old. They may be iced and cut in slices. 

Drop Cakes — Hermits 

5 pounds sugar, 2[-_> pounds shortening, 15 eggs, 2f/^> quarts 
milk, 4 ounces soda, 8 pounds flour, 3 pounds currants, 3 
pounds short cocoanut, 2 ounces cinnamon. Mix as usual. Drop 
on greased and dusted pans, 20 on a pan. Mix makes 20 pans. 
Medium oven. 

Ginger Drop Cakes 

1 pound sugar, % pound lard, 5 eggs, ] /2 pint molasses, V2 
ounce soda dissolved in %. pint milk, 1% pounds flour, 1/2 ounce 
baking powder, 1 ounce ginger and cinnamon. Mix as usual, 
drop out on greased and dusted pans. 

159 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Molasses and Spice Drop Cakes 

Mix 12 ounces lard, V2 pound sugar, 5 eggs, */2 ounce gin- 
ger, 1 quart molasses, IV2 pints water, 3% pounds soft flour 
and 2 ounces baking powder together. Drop out on dusted, 
greased pans. 

For spiced drop cookies add spices. Drop a raisin on top 
of each cookie before baking. Mix makes eight dozen. 

Soft Ginger Drops 

41/2 pounds brown sugar, 1% pounds lard, y% ounce salt, 
214 ounces soda, 1 ounce mixed ginger and cinnamon, flavor 
of lemon, 3 pints molasses, 5 pints sweet or sour milk, 2 
pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cake flour. Mix like molasses 
cake, drop on dusted pans, with seedless raisins on top. Makes 
15 dozen. 

Yellow Drop Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 12 eggs, V/2 pints milk, 1 
ounce ammonia, 4 pounds soft flour, 2 ounces baking powder. 
Mix as usual. Drop on greased and dusted pans. 

Coco-Butters — Mansfield's Cocoanut Drop Cookies 

Put in bowl 5 quarts water, V2 pound soda, salt to 
season, 4 pounds lard ; break this all up so the lard is in small 
pieces, add 6 pounds macaroon cocoanut, stir well together, 
26 pounds cake flour, and 12 pounds granulated sugar on top 
of flour, then mix well. Use this for machine. If dropping 
out by hand use 24 pounds flour. Drop about size of an egg. 
Mix makes 65 dozen. 

Cocoanut Drop Cookies, White 

1 pound sugar, 1/2 pound butter, 5 eggs, 1 pint milk, 21/2 
pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, 1 pound cocoanut. Mix 
and drop out on lightly greased pans. 

SNAPS, JUMBLES AND WAFERS 

Lemon Snaps 

No. 1 — 2V2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, 7 to 8 
eggs, 2V2 pounds soft flour, 14 ounce ammonia, lemon flavor, 

160 



UCES l"i; BA KERS 

milk as required. Roll out thin, cut with small snap cutter, 
ased pans, egg wash, and bake in •">~>( | degn 

Lemon Snaps, i«> Drop »>ut with Bag and rube 

2 pounds BUgar, l pound butter, l" to 11 
grated rind and juice of I lemons, -'- pounds Hour sifted with 
1 ounce baking powder. 

Ginger Snaps to Drop Out 

i 1'| pounds BUgar, ' •_• pound lard. 5 eggs, l pint 
molasses, l pint water, 1 ounce soda, l ounce mixed spice — 
half ginger, flour sufficient to make a soft mixture. 

Ginger Snaps with Crumbs, Eggless 

\ -~-i :; i pounds BUgar, l pound lard, l quart molasses, 

1 pound crumbs >t>;ikcd in 1 pint water, and - ounces soda, 
. flour to mix. 
N". 3 3 pounds BUgar, l pound lard, I quart molasses, l 
pint water, l' ounces soda. 1 ounce ginger, l ounce mixed 

spice, i | ounce Bait, '">' i pounds BOft wheat Hour. .Mix as 
USUal. Cut with Li-inch snap cutter, wet on pans, or hake in 
a little steam. 

Vanilla Jumbles 

•J pounds sugar, l •"■ i pounds shortening, LO eggs, l pint 
milk, ' .. ounce soda. 1 ounce cream Of tartar. 1 ' -_» pounds cake 
Hour, vanilla flavor. Mix like cakes, lay out in rings with bag 
and large star tube, on lightly greased pans. Let stand to dry 
1 g hour; this brings out the star in better shape. Bake in 
375 degrees Fahr. 

Chocolate Jumbles 

Add 2 ounces melted chocolate to jumble mixture given, 
sprinkle with granulated sugar. 

Eggless Jumbles — Jelly Rings 

11/4 pounds sugar, l J /> pounds butter, 1 pound lard, 3 
pounds cake flour, 14 ounce baking powder, vanilla, egg color. 
Mix as usual. These are best dressed with bag and large star 

161 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



tube in small patty tins, making rings and leaving center 
open. Bake in medium oven, dust with sugar, and put a dot 
of good jam in center. 

"S" Jumbles 

2 pounds flour, 114 pounds butter, % pound sugar, 4 whole 
eggs, 8 yolks, vanilla or lemon flavor. 

Butter Rings 

2V-2 pounds flour, IV2 pounds butter, 1 pound sugar, 9 eggs, 
a little ammonia, vanilla. Use biscuit or jumble machine and 
set on pans in small rings. Bake in medium heat. 

Champagne Strips or Wafers 

Use butter ring mixture. Use flat corrugated die in bis- 
cuit machine. Cut in 4-inch strips, bake on double tins. 

Spiced Crumb Rings 

Rub 7 ounces butter in 1 pound flour, add 1 pound sifted 
cake crumbs, 12 ounces sugar, V2 ounce mixed spices, mix with 
2 or 3 eggs and 14 ounce ammonia, and a little water, into firm 
paste. Use star die in biscuit forcer, and form in small rings 
on the pan. Ice rings when baked. 

The success of the formula depends also on the richness 
of the cake crumbs. If very rich in sugar they would make 
the cakes spread too much in baking. Very dry and poor 
crumbs would require more ammonia than rich crumbs. 

Wafer Jumbles 

IV2 pounds powdered sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 12 eggs, 
21/2 pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Mix like cake, keep 
cool, and dress with medium-sized star tube on lightly greased 
pans in ring or "S" shape, or in small bars which may be 
sprinkled with cocoanut, chopped almonds, or left plain. 

White Vanilla Wafers or Cats' Tongues 

1 pound icing sugar, 1 pound white butter, 10 egg whites, 
114 pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Rub butter and sugar 
light, cream in the egg white, then add flavor and flour. 

162 



CAKES I OR BAKERS 



- ..M lightly greased pans with bag and small lady finger 
tube m small finger shapes, Bel well apart, and bake in about 
i ah r. Take off while warm by running the 
palette knife under the cak< 

Umond or Lemon Wafers — Almond strips 

- pounds powdered BUgar, l ' •_• pounds butter, •; eggs, \ }i 
ounce ammonia. "J 1 - pounds cake Sour, flavor of grated rind 
of lemon or extract. Mix like cookies, Bel to cool to get firm. 
Work up cool. Roll out on dusted board or cloth. For wafers 
cut with snap cutter, Bet on pans and egg wash. For almond 
strips cut in 3-inch long, '--inch wide bars, wash on table 

and sprinkle thickly with blanched and finely chopped 

almonds. Bet on pans and bake in 300 d< r medium oven. 

Umond Wafer — Rolfed Wafers 

1 g pound almond paste, 6 egg whites, ;! i pound powdered 
Bugar, l ounces cake Hour, j j pint milk, a pinch of salt, pow- 
dered cinnamon to Beason. Mix Into a smooth paste, dress 
with stencil on lightly greased pans. Bend <>r roll in any 
shape. The patterns or stencil- are made ou1 of cardboard, 

and the inside of the stencil is cut into the desired shap" 

with a sharp penknife bo the edges come out smooth. The 
mixture is placed on the point of the howl knife and spread 

about one-sixteenth inch in thickness. The wafers are taken 
Off while hot and beat in leaf shape, cornucopias, etc. 

Walnut Wafers 

1 2 pound almond past", j ■_> pound ground almonds, ' ■_> 
pound ground walnuts, l', pounds sugar, a scant pint egg 
whites, ] '■> teaspoonful cinnamon, !| teaspoonfuls cloves and 
allspice, the grated rind of 2 lemons. Mix into a smooth- 
spreading paste on the fire until hot, dress in thin ovals on 
lightly greased pans dusted with flour or dres son sheets of 
wafer paper, and when baked and cool cut in bars or squares. 

Swedish Rolled Wafers — Cones 

The weight of 5 eggs in shell of powdered sugar, the same 
weight of soft flour ; mix with the 5 eggs into a soft spreading 

163 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



paste, flavor with vanilla or with spices. Place a teaspoonful 
at a time on well greased baking pans, about 12 to 15 in a 
pan. Spread with back of a spoon very thin, in large ovals. 
Sprinkle thickly with shredded cocoanut, and bake in a brisk 
heat. Bake only a few pans at a time. Draw to oven door 
and take off the wafers, while the helper rolls them quickly 
on sticks or forms them in cone shape. The baked wafers 
must be handled quickly or they cannot be rolled. They 
may be baked without the cocoanut, rolled quickly on cone 
shaped sticks, and when cold the cones may be iced with a 
boiled chocolate icing or covered with thin fondant and filled 
with meringue, whipped cream or ice cream, as desired. 

Ice Cream Sandwich Wafers — Cream Wafers 

No. 1 — 1 pound cake flour, 14 ounces sugar, 4 eggs, 4 
ounces melted butter, % ounce ammonia. Dissolve ammonia 
in a little milk, sift sugar and flour together, mix with the 
eggs and sufficient milk into a thin batter, beating in the 
melted butter. Bake in wafer irons, which should be well 
greased. 

Ice Cream Cone Wafers 

No. 2 — 2 pounds cake flour, ( /o pound rice flour, 114 pounds 
sugar, 4 to 5 eggs, milk sufficient to make a smooth batter. 
Mix like sandwich wafers, bake in cone irons, and roll on 
pointed stick while hot. 

Dietetic Bran Wafers 

Set 1 pint of water to boil, and when boiling pour over 2 
pounds of bran, add 2 pounds of sugar, 1 pound shortening and 
let cool; then work in 14 ounce soda, y± ounce powdered am- 
monia and 1 pound soft flour. Roll out thin and cut with 
wafer cutter. Bake in a cool oven until very crisp. 

Honey Wafers 

!/•> pound sugar, 1/0 pound butter, 1 pint of honey, 1 pound 
of soft flour, flavor of mace and lemon. Drop out on lightly 
greased pans with bag and plain tube size of 25-cent piece, 
flatten and bake in cool oven. 

164 



CAKKS 101; I5AKKKS 



Kulled Brandy Waters, or Snaps, or Butter Scotch 

1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, l pint molasses, lemon rind, 
1 pound cake flour. Mix all together, place on greased pans 
far enough apart, bake in cool oven, roll while hot. 

These small cakes must be handled cool. After mixing set 
in ice box to stiffen, then roll into a string and cut in small 
pieces, set far apart on greased tins, flatten and bake as 
directed. Can be rolled on stick or bent over peel handle. 

SMALL HARD FANCY CAKES 

Chocolate Drops 

No. L — 3 pounds powdered sugar, '-. pint egg whites, 6 
ounces melted chocolate. Beat egg whites light and heat in 
the sugar, then set on slow fire or in hot water and beat up 
until warm, add the melted chocolate and mix well. 

No. 2 — Boil ."d | pounds sugar, ' - pint water, to 240 to 243 
degrees. In the meantime heat up 1 pint of egg whites, and 
when stiff beat in about 8 ounces powdered sugar. Pour the 
boiling sugar slowly into the egg whites and add (i ounces 
melted chocolate. Mixtures should not be too stiff, so the 
drops flow to form a smooth top. 

Rose Drops — White Drops 

Use mixture No. 1 or No. 2 for these drops, omitting the 
chocolate, color pink, and flavor with rose extract. 

For white drops omit coloring and flavor with peppermint 
extract. 

Drop mixture while warm on lightly greased and dusted 
pans. Let dry, so a skin forms on top. Chocolate drops should 
dry about three hours ; the pink or white drops require less 
time to dry before baking. Bake in cool oven. 

These cakes may be made up in shape of drops, small fin- 
gers, scrolls or heart shapes, and may be decorated with vari- 
colored icings and used for Christmas tree confections. 

Vanilla Cream Drops, or Souffles 

Mix 20 yolks of eggs with about 3 pounds icing sugar and 
!/4 ounce of ammonia to a smooth, thick paste ; flavor with 

165 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



vanilla. More or less sugar may be required to make the 
paste stiff enough so it does not run too flat when dropped on 
lightly greased and dusted pans. Use bag and small plain 
tube, make up in the same shapes as chocolate drops. These 
drops dry quickly and should be baked as soon as a thin skin 
is formed. The cakes bake up nicely and retain their shape 
well. Can be decorated like chocolate drops. 

Patience Drops or Figures 

Beat 9 egg whites P/2 pint) light, add 1 pound powdered 
sugar, beat up again, and add 14 ounces cake flour; flavor 
with vanilla. For chocolate Patience add a scant ounce of 
melted cocoa. Dress on greased and dusted pans in round 
drops the size of a 25 cent piece, or form in figures or scrolls ; 
let dry from 6 to 8 hours, then bake in cool oven. 

Anise Drops or Fingers 

Beat together 1 pound powdered sugar and 8 eggs until it 
thickens the same as for sponge cake, add V2 ounce anise seed 
or flavor with a few drops anise oil, add some powdered ammo- 
nia, as much as will lie on a dime, and mix with 1 pound soft 
flour. Drop on flour-dusted pans in drops or in small fingers, 
let dry about 6 hours or overnight, and bake in fairly good 
oven. 

Cinnamon Sticks — Half Moons 

V2 pound cake crumbs, 1/2 pound flour, 6 ounces sugar, 2 
eggs, 14 ounce mixed spice, 1/3 ounce ammonia. Mix with 
a little water into a stiff dough. Roll in strips, ice with 
a firm royal icing. Cut in strips or fingers, or in crescents, 
set on pan and let dry for 2 hours. Then bake to a nice color. 

Dominoes 

Mix 1 pound sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces flour, Y> ounce cin- 
namon, 6 eggs and '/•> ounce ammonia into a smooth paste. 
Ice with a firm royal icing, cut in 2 , /2-inch-wide strips, and 
cut the strips in 1-inch-wide fingers. Let dry on the pans 
and bake. When baked form in dominoes, making division 
and dots with chocolate. 

166 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Cocoamil Drops 

l ' - pounds sugar, l pound butter, ' - pint eggs, 1 j 2 pints 
milk. 2< ; ■> pounds sugar, 2 ounces baking powder. Mix like 
cakes, drop 011 greased and dusted pans. Sprinkle with cocoa- 
nut and Bugar. Bake in 300 degrees. 

SPRINGERLE, CHRISTMAS CAKES 

No. l — 2 pounds powdered sugar, 9 eggs, _'- pounds cake 
Hour. '., ounce ammonia. j 2 ounce anise seed, or anise oil, for 

flavor. 

No. 2—16 pounds sugar, :'»'- to 8% quarts eggs, 20 pounds 

cake flour. 'J ounces ammonia, anise oil. Mixture makes 100 
dozen cakes. 

Mix sugar and eggs and beat light in cake machine, then 
add flavor and ammonia, then Hour. Mix to a smooth dough. 
Roll dough out ' 1 inch thick and run over the springerle 
roller, or cut in pieces and press out in the dusted forms. Cut 
in squares with sharp knife and set on lightly greased and 
dusted pans. Let dry 5 to 6 hours and bake in cool oven. 

Almond Sou tiles 

Make a soft macaroon paste with 1 pound almond paste, 
1 pound powdered sugar and a scant U pint egg whites, then 
work in sufficient icing sugar to make a stiff paste. Flavor 
with vanilla. Roll out f jj inch thick on marble slab, dusting 
the slab with sugar. Cut out in small stars, rings, hearts, 
etc., and cut, with a very small cutter, a center out of each. 
Set on dusted pans, let just dry lightly, then bake in cool 
oven. These small cakes make nice Christmas confections 
and may be iced, dipped in colored sugar, etc. The cakes rise 
well in baking. 

Rose Souffles, Chocolate Souffles 

Mix 5 beaten egg whites with sufficient icing sugar into a 
smooth rolling paste, color pink, flavor rose, or add some 
melted chocolate or chocolate color. Handle like almond souffles 
and decorate when baked. 

167 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



HONEY CAKES 

Honey doughs improve with age and are best if made some 
time before they are used. The aging of the dough is said 
to improve the acidity, and make the doughs rich and mellow 
during the ripening period, thus making a better eating cake 
than fresh-made doughs. Honey doughs are made in many 
qualities, from pure honey, or part molasses and honey, other 
syrups are used with sugar and more or less water may be 
added before boiling. The flour should be a soft winter wheat 
flour, and in some honey doughs part rye flour and part soft 
winter wheat flour are used to make short, mellow dough. 
In Europe potash and ammonia or soda and alum are used 
for these doughs, but baking soda may be used with equal 
results in place of potash. 

A standing rule is used for making honey doughs : Even 
weights of flour and honey or molasses are used, more flour 
in proportion to water added. The honey is heated until it 
rises to a boil ; this is checked by adding a little cold water. 
The syrup is taken off the fire, and with skimmer any impuri- 
ties which have risen taken off, or it is strained through a 
fine sieve into bowl or trough. When cooled down to blood 
heat, or about 98 degrees Fahr., sufficient flour is added to 
make a medium firm dough. 

Honey Dough 

Both honey and molasses vary in their density or sugar 
content, therefore some doughs bake up richer and act differ- 
ently than others. In large factories the different doughs are 
tried out with soda and ammonia a couple days after they 
are made, to ascertain the amount of leaven required. When 
making smaller batches it is always best to bake a sample to 
be certain of results. If the cakes are too light work in more 
stock dough, containing no leaven, into the batch, if too close 
grained and heavy, increase the soda or ammonia slightly. 

To 55 pounds honey brought to boil add 40 pounds rye 
flour, 15 pounds winter wheat flour and mix. Take to 50 
pounds of this dough 4 ounces soda, 2 ounces ammonia, 8 
ounces cinnamon, 1 ounce ground cardamom, 1 ounce nutmeg, 

168 



CAKKS I'OK UAKKKS 



1 - ounce cloves, ' j ounce allspice. Make up in rakes or pep- 
pernuts. 

Standard Spice Mixture for Honey Cakes 

Mix together LO parts high grade cinnamon, 5 parts all- 
spice, :'. parts cloves, •"» parts mace. •_> parts cardamom, have all 
finely ground, and keep in closed jar ready for use. 
Artificial Honey, Invert Sugar Honey. 

Dissolve r> pounds corn sugar, or r> pounds invert sugar, 
in 1 1 quarts (22 pounds) water, stir and lei come to a ix.il. add 
•". ounces of dissolved tartaric acid, mix and let boil up again, 

then let cool and USi 

Honey Stock Dough 

No. 1 — To .",o pounds honey brought to a boil and cooled 

to blood heat add ."><) pounds soft wheat Hour, and make into 
smooth dough as directed. Let rest, well covered, in cool lilac. 

tor about 2 1 hours before using. For 25 pounds of thisdough 

take o ounces of the spice mixture given, add 2 ounces soda. 
1 ounce ammonia rubbed smooth with 2 eggs. Work this in 
the dough with dough brake roller to incorporate the leaven 
and spices. 

Honey Dough with Brown Sugar 

No. 2 — Dissolve 6 pounds brown sugar in 2 quarts water. 
let boil up, add ' g ounce cream of tartar and let boil to 220 
degrees, or thread (see sugar boiling degrees). Then add 5 
quarts honey and mix well, let cool, and add 20 to 22 pounds 
soft flour, making smooth dough. 

Stock Dough with Artificial Honey 

No. 3 — Take half pure honey, half artificial honey, or half 
molasses, half artificial honey, or the plain artificial honey 
without any addition, let come to boil, add 1 pint water for 5 
pounds honey, stir and let cool. Then make a firm dough with 
sufficient soft wheat flour. A part of this dough may be used 
with some better grade of dough for figures and other small 
goods. Use leaven in the same proportion as in the regular- 
stock doug-hs and bake sample as directed. 

169 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Honey and Sugar Dough 

No. 4 — Dissolve 10 pounds brown sugar in 2 quarts water, 
let come to boil, and boil to 220 degrees. Add 10 pounds of 
honey, mix well, and let boil up together, strain and let cool 
to blood heat, then add 18 pounds cake flour to make a smooth 
dough. From the preceding stock doughs, which may be 
used singly or in combinations, such as half honey dough, 
half artificial honey dough or part sugar dough, quite a va- 
riety of cakes are made. About 1 ounce spice mixture is 
figured sufficient for 5 pounds of stock dough, with 2 ounces 
soda, 1 ounce ammonia, for 25 pounds stock dough for rais- 
ing. Thick honey cakes require a slight reduction in soda and 
ammonia, while for small cakes, such as figures and nuts, etc., 
a slight increase of ammonia is often permissible. 

Thick Honey Cake, Braunschweiger 

For 20 pounds stock dough take 3 ounces spice mixture, 
li/2 ounce ground anise seed, 1 ounce soda, 1/2 ounce ammonia. 
Mix this smooth with 3 eggs and work in. Bake sample. Roll 
dough out about %, to V2 inch thick, lay on greased and dusted 
pan, set in a i/ 2 -inch wood frame. Brush off flour and mark 
in small cakes about 2 1 /2x4|/^ inches, decorate each cake with 
blanched and split halves of almonds, one half in each corner, 
four to form star in center. Bake in medium oven and brush 
over with a thin vanilla icing while warm; then cut on the 
marked places with a sharp knife. These cakes may be cut 
and baked singly on the pan and iced when baked. 

Swiss or French Honey Cake 

Take 5 pounds brown sugar dough, 10 pounds honey dough, 
II/2 ounces soda, V\ t ounce ammonia, 2V2 ounces spice mixture, 
1V2 pounds finely chopped raw almonds, 1/2 pound citron, 1/2 
pound orange peel finely cut, '/g pound granulated sugar mixed 
smooth with 2 eggs. Work this well together. Roll out rather 
thin and cut in small oblongs to weigh about % ounce each. 
Bake on flour dusted pans and ice when cold. 

Nuremberg Lebkuchen 

Take 8 pounds honey stock dough, which contains the 
170 



caffs 101: r.AKI'KS 



raising, add l ' - ounces spices, ;! i pound dropped almonds, and 

work m 2 eggs. Roll out and cut in small cakes. 2x4 inches. 

2o to the pound, and bake on flour-dusted pans in good heat 

BO they do not dry out. Frost with vanilla. These are also 
made in ."»' --inch round cakes, decorated in the center with a 

star of blanched, split almonds, baked to a nice brown color, 

and iced with thin vanilla icing when cold. 

I 'anc\ Nuremberg Leckerlj 

No. l — 1 pound almond paste, l pound granulated sugar, 1 
ounce flour, sufficient egg whites to make a smooth paste, 
flavor of grated lemon rind. 

No. 2 — 1 pound almond paste. IS ounces SUgar, 8 to 9 egg 
whites, a pinch of ground Cinnamon, 2 ounces melted chocolate. 

Mix like a macar i pa 

No. .',— Heat up 1 pound sugar with 11 eggs <>n a slow lire, 
same as for sponge cake. When it thickens add 1 ounces 
chopped almonds, 1 1 ounces cake flour, 1 ounce spice mixture, 
and a pinch of ammonia. 

After the three mixtures have been prepared cut wafer- 
paper in rounds of about l 1 i inches diameter, or in oblongs 
2x1 or 2x3 inches. Spread the paste about l '■'> inch to V-i 
inch in the center of the waters, smooth oil' the sides with a 
wet knife. For mixture No. 1 put half of a blanched almond 
in the center of each cake of one-half the mixture; the other 
half decorate with a slice of citron. For No. 2, sprinkle top 
half of the cake with fine granulated sugar, mixed with nuts, 
the other half with white or colored nonpareil sugar. For No. 
8, let the cakes dry after spreading on the wafer, so a crust 
forms before baking. Now bake these cakes in a cool tem- 
perature about 280 degrees, to a nice brown color. Glace the 
cake with a transparent icing. Six of these cakes are packed 
in fancy round tins or in round fancy paper packages tied with 
fancy ribbon, and sold under various names. 

Elisen Lebkuchen 

Mix 1 pound ground raw almonds, 1 pound granulated 
sugar, 3 ounces finely chopped citron, 1 ounce flour, !/> ounce 
cinnamon, a little ground cloves, the grated rind of one lemon, 

171 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



11 egg whites, a little ammonia, to soft spreading paste; dress 
on 3-inch round wafer papers, set on papered pans, and bake 
in 300 degrees. When baked and cold, ice one-third of mix- 
ture with chocolate, one-third with ink rose flavored icing, 
one with pale yellow lemon icing. Pack two of each kind in 
round fancy tins, holding six cakes. 

White Lebkuchen 

Warm l 3 /4, quarts milk and dissolve 5 pounds granulated 
sugar, let cool, then add V-> pound lard, the grated rind of 2 
lemons, and 4 ounces ammonia rubbed smooth with 2 eggs. 
Then work in about 10 pounds cake flour and mix smooth. 
This dough is used for figures, hearts and other kinds of 
small cakes. This mixture can be improved by adding 
blanched and finely chopped almonds and citron. Anise seed 
or oil is another favorite flavor for white cakes. 

Chocolate Honey Cake 

Take 10 ounces dissolved chocolate, 2 pounds sugar, 1 pint 
hot milk, and make a stiff dough, adding sufficient cake flour. 
Work this in 2 pounds honey dough with 1 ounce soda, 1 ounce 
ammonia, and 2 yolks. Bake a sample, roll out i/L inch sheets, 
cut in 3i/2x2-inch squares and bake in moderate oven on flour 
dusted pans. Frost with boiled chocolate icing. 

Filled Honey Cakes 

To 10 pounds of honey dough or mixed dough add 1 ounce 
soda, 1 ounce ammonia, and work smooth with 3 yolks. Roll 
into V8 m ch sheet, cut in 4-inch-wide strips. Cover every other 
strip with filling given, and lay on the filling some citron cut 
in long thin slices. Bake in slow heat. Ice strips on both 
sides and sprinkle with nonpareil sugar, then cut in 2*4 -inch 
wide slices or cuts. Pack side by side in fancy wrapper. 

Filling for Honey Cake 

Mix 1 pound almond paste, 4 ounces bitter almond, 12 
ounces sweet almond, finely ground with water to a smooth 
paste. Work in 1 pound currant jelly or jam, 2\/% pounds 
sugar, 1 pound ground sultanas, flavor with a little cinnamon 

172 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



and the grated rind of lemon, add sufficient water to make 
smooth spreading paste. Use as directed. 

Macaroon Honej Cake 

Roll 12 pounds honey dough containing the raisins, and l 
pound ground almonds, into ' t inch thick sheet. Cut in l 
inch wide strips, cover each strip with a soft macaroon paste. 

such as is used for plain macaroons. Cut in small cakes and 

Bet on greased and dusted pans. Bake in 300 degrees. These 
cakes may be iced with almond flavored icing or left plain. 

Pflastersteine — Cobblestones 

These cakes are usually made lighter by adding more rais- 
ing. For 20 pounds honey dough or mixed dough take about 

1 ounces spice mixture, 2Vfc ounces soda, 2 ounces ammonia. 
j> and work smooth. Bake a trial, then roll out in a long 
String and cut in small nuts. Put in sieve and dust with flour, 
shaking them well together. Scale in 1- to 6-OUnce portions 
and till in rings which are greased and dusted, and set on the 
prepared pans. Hake carefully. Wh< n cold brush oil* the 
flour, and ice, using a stiff brush with white or pink icing. 
Cobblestones are also naked in large squares in wood frames, 
iced and cut in pieces. 

Peppernuts 

These may he made from the same doughs as used for 
honey cakes or cobblestones. Varieties may be made by add- 
ing chopped nuts and citron. Roll dough out and cut with 
small round cutter, or roll in long strips and cut in even-sized 
pieces, then round by hand, set on greased pans, flatten, and 
bake in medium oven. When baked and cold, ice as follows: 

Boil 5 pounds granulated sugar, 1 quart water to a strong 
thread, put drops in bowl, and pour the syrup over the drops 
in a thin stream, stirring constantly until the sugar granulates 
and forms a white coating. Some bakers simply dampen 
the well-dried baked nuts with a syrup, then roll them in icing 
sugar. 

Other varieties are made from the white sugar dough mix- 
ture by baking small nuts, which when baked and well dried 

173 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



are covered like the other peppernuts with white or pink 
colored sugar, flavoring the white syrup with a little pepper- 
mint, the pink syrup with rose, strawberry or raspberry flavor. 

Small Mixtures for Peppernuts 

No. 1 — Heat 6 pounds honey, 4 pounds N. 0. molasses and 

1 quart water to near boiling, let cool, add 3 ounces mixed 
spice, about 14 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces soda, IV2 ounces 
ammonia. Bake sample and make up as directed. 

No. 2 — Take 1 gallon molasses, let come to near boil, and 
strain in bowl; let cool and add V/2 pounds brown sugar, 
V-2, pound lard, 4 ounces mixed spice, or 2 ounces spices and 

2 ounces ground anise seeds, 3 ounces soda, 14 ounce ammonia, 
and sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Bake sample and 
make up as directed. 

Honey Dough for Figures 

Mix together 5 pints honey, 2 ] / 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 
quart milk, heat to near boiling, put in bowl, add % pound 
lard, 3 ounces mixed spices, a few drops anise oil or 1 ounce 
ground anise seed. Let cool. Dissolve 1 ounce soda and 
1 ounce ammonia, and add to mixture with about 10 pounds 
cake flour. Use this the next day, for figures, hearts and 
small cakes of any kind. 



174 



IX. MACHINE-MADE COOKIES 



Man\- of the ordinary cookie mixtures may be adapted to 
be made by machine, but it requires good judgment to accom- 
plish this. A mixture may work well on one machine, but not 
on the other. Some flours work tougher than others, and a 

tough mixture may DOt work as good as a shorter mixture. 

The chemicals, especially ammonia, should be well dissolved. 
The average sweet biscuit or cookie mixture should never be 
overmixed. Overmixing toughens the mixture, especially 
when using a flour of good absorption. A good soft winter 
wheat flour works most satisfactorily. Many goods art- im- 
proved it' the dough is given time to shorten and rest for som • 

hours. Some mixtures work stiller in cold weather than in 
warm weather, and may accordingly require more or less 
Hour or liquid. It is well to Wake a sample before running off 

the whole batch, to see how it works in the machine and in 

baking. 

Sugar Cookies, or Light Cookies 

No. 1 — 36 pounds sugar. 17 pounds compound, 2 (plaits 
eggs, 8 quarts milk, 3 ounces soda, 12 ounces ammonia, 60 
pounds soft winter wheat flour, vanilla flavor. 

No. 2 — 16 pounds sugar, 10 pounds corn syrup, 12 pounds 
compound, 1 :{ |. gallons milk,, 1 j ^ pints whole eggs, l'/tj pints 
yolks, vanilla flavor, • g pound ammonia. ' ,.\ pound soda. 

Mix sugar and shortening, add eggs, milk with ammonia, 
then flavor and flour. Mix rather soft. Run on depositing 
machine with 2',4-inch round die. Before baking wash with 
sweetened milk wash or egg wash, or dip in sugar. Bake in 
medium hot oven, or 375 degrees. 

Syrup Crumb Cookies 

Eight pounds C sugar, 5 pounds compound, 2 quarts corn 
syrup, 2 quarts molasses, 3 quarts water, 12 pounds cake 

175 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



crumbs, 4 ounces mixed spices, 1 quart eggs, 20 to 22 pounds 
flour. Sift soda in flour. Mix as usual. Drop with large die, 
dip in sugar and bake in a cool oven. 

Scotch Cookies or Butterscotch 

Thirty-two pounds granulated sugar, 16 pounds compound, 
1 quart eggs, 2 quarts sugar honey (or pure honey), 2 quarts 
molasses, 14 ounces soda, 7 quarts milk, about 48 pounds flour. 
Flavor of mace and cinnamon. Mix as usual, drop with 2-inch 
die, dip with cloth soaked in syrup, or dip in coarse sugar. 
Bake in medium oven. 

Coffee Cookies 

Seven and one-half pounds C sugar, 414 pounds compound, 
2J/2 quarts honey, 1/2 pint yolks, 214 quarts molasses, 6 ounces 
soda, 2 ounces salt, 3 ounces ginger, lemon oil, 25 pounds soft 
flour, a little water, 1 ounce cinnamon. Sift sugar and cream 
with compound, add spices, honey and molasses, add lemon 
flavor and beat in the eggs, then the flour. Make a smooth 
dough, adding a little water if required. Run with 2-inch 
die. Bake in medium heat. 

Fruit Cookies 

Fifteen pounds sugar, 7 pounds compound, 2 ounces salt, 
3 pints eggs, 4 quarts milk, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces ammonia, 
lemon flavor, about 25 pounds soft winter wheat flour. Mix 
like sugar cookies. Drop with 2-inch die on pans, sprinkle 
with small raisins or currants. 

Honey Jumbles 

Twenty pounds flour, 5 quarts honey, 1V4 pounds sugar, 
3V2 pounds lard, 1 quart eggs, 1 pint water, 6 ounces soda, 
6 ounces cinnamon, 2 ounces cloves, 1 ounce mace. Warm 
honey to about 120 degrees, let cool and add sugar, lard and 
eggs creamed together; add soda dissolved in water, then 
add flour, and make a smooth dough. Let stand for 3 to 6 
hours, then run on machine with small jumble die. Bake in 
medium oven. 

176 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 

Cocoanut Macaroons with Umond Paste 

Twelve pounds macaroon cocoanut, 6 pounds almond paste, 
16 i". mid- half powdered, half granulated — 3 quarts 

egg whites. 3 pounds corn flour, l « g pounds wheat flour. Work 
almond paste smooth with l quart egg whites, beat the other 
two quarts light, beat in 2 pounds Bugar, and work into the 
almond paste, then mix in the balance of the sugar and the 
.nut: then add flour. I><> not toughen mixture, just mix 
clear. Drop with L-inch die on flour-dusted pans, [f the mix 
still', add a little syrup. Flatten tops with wet cloth, 

and kike in about •"'"" hr. 

Oriental Cocoanut Drop- 

Rub smooth »"> pounds C sugar, _ quarts molasses, :;■■< , 
pounds soft lard, add 2 ounces ginger and mace. :; pints water, 

vanilla flavor, "J 1 -, ounce- BOda, ' -j ounce ammonia dissolved 
in the water: then add :;'.. pounds macaroon cocoanut mixed 
with about 12 pounds of Cake flour, mix clear, drop on pans 

with l-inch die; dip pans onto coarse cocoanut. Bake in 

moderate oven. 

Honey Cakes, [ced 

No. L — 2V£ pounds line granulated sugar, -!'•_» pounds lard, 
".'j gallons honey, •"' pints water. 11 ounces soda, 3 ounces 
ammonia. •"> ounces salt, lemon oil and mace, IS pounds flour. 
Mix sugar, softened lard and honey, add lemon, soda and 
ammonia, also salt dissolved in water. Mix in the evening 
and run off in the morning giving it a mixing before running 
it off on the machine. Use a plain round die, and bake with 
a little steam. Ice when baked. 

No. 2 — 20 pounds granulated sugar, 10 pounds compound, 
6 quarts honey, 12 ounces soda dissolved in 1 quart water, 
3 ounces salt, 46 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces honey cake 
spices. Use plain round die. Bake in moderate oven with a 
little steam. 

Spiced Oatmeals 

Twelve pounds brown sugar, 9 pounds lard, 3 ounces salt, 
3 quarts molasses, 8 quarts milk or buttermilk, 5 ounces soda, 

177 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



6 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce cloves, 1 ounce cinnamon, 
12 pounds short oatmeal, 24 pounds cake flour. Mix like 
other cookies, drop on pans, wash with milk or dip in granu- 
lated sugar on the pans. 

Mixed Jumbles 

Ten pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds 
lard, 3 pints eggs, 214 ounces ammonia, 2 ounces soda, 4 quarts 
milk, about 24 pounds soft flour, flavor of vanilla. Cream 
sugar, butter and lard, add eggs by degrees, then flavor and 
milk with soda and ammonia dissolved in it. Then add the 
flour and just mix clear. Run on pans as usual, with jumble 
die, dip one-third of the jumbles in coarse cocoanut mixed 
with sugar, some in colored sugar, or in nonpareil sugar, 
roasted and chopped peanuts, to make a variety. 

Molasses or Spice Jumbles 

Six pounds granulated sugar, 6 pounds lard, 2 ounces salt, 
4V2 quarts molasses, 11/2 pints water, 8 ounces soda, 5 ounces 
ginger, 1 ounce allspice, about 24 pounds soft winter wheat 
flour. Mix sugar and lard, add spices and molasses and salt 
dissolved in water. Sift soda thoroughly in the flour. Make 
a smooth dough. Run with jumble die, and dip on pans in 
granulated sugar; bake in medium heat. 

Butter Jumbles 

Nine pounds fine granulated sugar, 2V2 pounds butter, 4 
pounds compound, 1 pint honey, 1 ounce soda, V/2 ounces 
ammonia, 4 quarts milk, vanilla or lemon flavor, 25 pounds 
soft flour. Cream sugar and shortening, add honey and flavor, 
then the milk with ammonia well dissolved. Sift soda in the 
flour and mix smooth. Bake in about 340 degrees Fahr. with 
a little steam. 

Lemon Cookies 

Twenty-four pounds granulated sugar, 8 pounds shorten- 
ing, 4 quarts eggs, 8 ounces ammonia, 2 quarts milk, 36 pounds 
cake flour, lemon flavor. 

178 



CAKES POR BAKERS 



Ginger Cookies or Snaps 

Twelve pounds granulated BUgar, 6 pounds lard, l gallon 
molasses, l gallon water, 3 ounces ginger, l ounce cinnamon, 

8 OUl . 2 ounces Bait, 32 pounds soft Hour. 

like other cookies, having mixture soft enough to 
pass through wire cut drop machine. Use more or less milk, 
according to strength of flour used. Tins holds good in using 
any other cookie mixture to use with machine; the mixtures 
must be regulated to suit the Hour and machine. 

Sugarless Cookies, l sing Corn Syrup 

Ten quarts corn syrup, LO pounds shortening, 2 quarts 

yolks, S quails milk. I ounces BOda, IS pounds Hour. 32 ounces 

baking powder, lemon flavor and salt. 
Sugarless Icing 

Boil *> pounds glucose and 2 pounds honey or corn syrup 

with the juice of 2 lemons. Boil to 240 degrees Fahr. In 
the meantime beat up 1 quart egg whites. When still' pour 
the hot boiled syrup slowly into egg whites and keep on beat- 
ing, medium speed, until nearly cold. Any flavor and color 
may be added, [ting is West used when freshly made. It 
may be used like meringue for pies or for filling. Flavors 

such as maple, chocolate, nuts and orange may he added. A 
nice combination filling is made by adding chopped seeded 
raisins, nuts and grated orange rind. 

Eggless Cake Mixtures 

Seven and one-half pounds granulated sugar, 6'/i. pounds 
glucose, 5 pounds compound, 2'-j ounces salt, 9 quarts milk, 
15 pounds cake Hour. 5 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds rice flour 
or com flour, 22 to 24 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace, 
vanilla or lemon. 

For yellow mixture add 1 ounce egg color in milk, for 
white mixture \/-> ounce pure cream of tartar, beaten in with 
the sugar and glucose. Mix as usual, regulating mixture with 
more or less milk. Use less milk if adding fruit. 



179 



X. SMALL FANCY CAKES 



SMALL CAKE FANCIES OFTEN CLASSED 
AS FRENCH PASTRIES 

Bouchee Macedoine 

Sponge drops are filled with creams or jams and iced 
Macedoine fashion, half the top dipped in chocolate, the other 
side finished part white, part pink, with a silver dragee in 
center. 

Bouchee Cerises — Bombes Cerises 

Sponge drops filled with jam and one whole maraschino 
cherry, covered entirely with cherry-flavored and colored fon- 
dant. 

Bouchee Chocolate — Bombe Chocolate 

A sponge drop filled with nut cream, covered with meringue 
shell of same size, covered with chocolate sprinkled with a 
few browned chopped almonds. 

Chocolate Bonne Bouchee 

Two large round or oval macaroons put together with jam, 
masked with chocolate, and sprinkled with browned almonds. 

Bouchee Citron — Bouchee de Oranges 

Sponge drops filled with lemon jelly or jam or orange jam, 
dipped in lemon or orange colored and flavored icing; sides 
masked with cocoanut, center decorated with white or yellow 
star of cream or with cherries and angelica. 

Othellos and Desdemonas 

Round sponge drops about 2 inches in diameter, baked and 
hollowed out, filled with whipped cream or rich pastry cream. 

180 



C AKES !<>K BAKERS 

with apricot jam. Dip in chocolate for Othellos, in pink 
and white for Desdemonas. 

Cateaux Ceri8es (CheiTJ Cakes) 

Bake small sponge cakes in flat round patty tins, well 

sed and dusted with flour. When baked remove a small 

piece from center of top, fill cavity with cherry preserve, 

cover sides with jam, and roll in short cocoanut. [ce top 

white, and place half a candied cherry in center. 

Madelines 

Bake a light butter sponge or poundcake mixture in small 

round tins, or in timbale molds. These may he masked with 
jam or butter cream and rolled in chopped or browned almonds 
or filberts, finished with a dot of icing in center, or left plain, 
simply icing to]* and placing half a cherry in center. 

Batons Amandes (Almond liars — Almond Fingers) 

Cut from Genois ■ poundcakes 2 to 3-inch strips j •> inch 

thick. Cover with a mixture of paste made of ' ■_, pound 
almond paste, ' | pound sugar and 5 yolks, roll the covered 
cakes in blanched and chopped almonds, place in the oven and 

bake to a nice brown color. 

"I)emi-I, unes Amandes" — Crescents, Half Moons 

Cut crescents from any good solid cake sheet, or hake 
crescents of Alliance paste. Cover with the same paste as for 
Batons, sprinkle with chopped almonds and bake to a nice 
brown. 

Almond Crescents 

Make a filling of ( g pound almond paste, |/o pound 
browned almonds, \-> pound crushed macaroons or part cake 
crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 14 egg whites, flavor of cinnamon and 
grated rind of lemon. Roll puff paste V«-inch thick, and cut 
in triangles, one side measuring about 5 inches, the others 
4 inches. Wash with water and put a strip of the filling on 
the broadest side, about the thickness of a pencil. Then roll 
together like Vienna crescents, egg wash, and bake in medium 
oven. These crescents may be finished in various ways or 

181 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



left plain. Cover with vanilla flavored icing- and sprinkle 
with nuts, or cover with hot apricot jam or currant jelly and 
sprinkle with crushed sugar and nuts, or glaze while hot with 
a syrup and leave plain. By using a firm fruit jam in the 
place of almond filling, crescents or demi-lune aux fruits or 
aux apricots, etc., may be produced. 

Almond Strips 

No. 1 — Take good short paste, roll out Vs-inch thick, wash 
with egg, cover with chopped almonds, cut in strips about 
3x11/4 inches, and bake to a nice color. 

No. 2 — Make a mixture of half almond paste, half chopped 
almonds, as for macaroons. Spread this paste on strips of 
wafer paper 3 inches wide, sprinkle with chopped almonds, 
cut in li/^-inch-wide strips, set on pans, let dry a little and 
bake in about 280 degrees. These strips may be made in 
crescents, by setting the strips on half round bent tins, and 
bake. 

Wafer Paper Used for Baking 

Wafer paper is an eatable wafer made up in sheets, which 
may be bought from bakers' supply firms, and should not be 
confused with other paper. The wafer paper is made like 
the hand-rolled ice cream cones baked in irons. A similar 
wafer is used for ice cream wafers or Nabiscos and ice cream 
sandwiches. 

Panier Chantilly, Cream Baskets 

Bonne Bouchee a la Creme — Bonne Bouchee au Chocolate 

Bake plain cheese filling in oval crimped tins. When baked 
and cold cut off the top of center. Cut this in halves. Place 
two rows of whipped cream on each side for panier Chantilly, 
pastry cream or butter cream for cream baskets, then place 
the cut top to form two lids on the cream, allowing the cream 
to show as in a half open basket. Use a strip of angelica to 
from a handle. For bonne bouchee au chocolate, mask the 
round baked tart with apricot jelly, then cover with chocolate 
and decorate with nuts. 

182 



. CAKES FOR BAKERS 

Panier en Genoise 

Cut oval shapes from any good solid cake mixture baked 
about 1 inch to l ' j inches thick. Tin* pieces may i>e filled or 
left plain. Cut off a thin slice of the top. Mask sides with 

currant jelly, run a row of butter cream or whipped cream on 

top On each side, then CUt top in tWO halves and replace on the 

cream to form two lids, allowing the cream to show between, 
trip of citron or angelica to form the handle. Cover 
sides with short cocoanut. 

Mocha Slices 

Cut Strips <>( l-inch-thick sheets about 3 inches wide, cut 
and fill with mocha cream, cover with cotl'ee Havered icing. 
Run a strip of red jelly on each ^^Ir and two white strips on 
each side of jelly strip. Cut in 2-inch slices, decorate each 
slice with a scroll of butter cream, with a dragee in center. 

I WO SLICES AM) STRIPS 
Roll out and cut Strips Of short paste 1 inches wide, and 

as long as the baking pan. Set on pans and turn over the 
edge of each strip, crimp up to form a border and partly bake. 
When baked put a strip of jam along the center and fill with 
any of the following mixtures: 

Almond Slices 

Take ' 2 pound almond paste, ;5 1 pound sugar, 6 egg whites, 
a pinch of cinnamon; mix and stir over the fire and let come 
to a boil. Take off the fire at once and fill in the partly baked 
strips. Bake in good heat and cut in slices while warm. 

Chocolate Slices 

Beat 6 egg whites, add 1 pound sugar, and stir in 6 ounces 
of ground almonds; mix and add a little melted chocolate, 
let come to a boil, bake and finish the same as above. 

Cocoanut Slices 

Take */& pound short cocoanut, % pound sugar, 6 egg 
whites, stir on fire, fill strips, and bake same as almond slices. 

183 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Nut Slices 

Take other ground nut meats and mix in the same pro- 
portion already given. For a lower-priced covering, some 
cake crumbs may be added to the nut mixtures. 

Cocoanut or Almond Fingers 

Take 1 pound sugar, y 2 pound almond paste, Vi pound 
cocoanut or chopped almonds, 2 to 4 ounces cake crumbs, 
about 1/3 pint egg whites. Mix sugar, softened almond paste, 
crumbs and nuts with egg whites to a soft paste; a little 
water may be added, according to dryness of crumbs, to make 
it like a macaroon paste. Heat and stir on the fire to soften, 
but not boil. Roll out a sheet of tart paste or short paste to 
form a square as wide as baking tin, with a board on the open 
side. Spread the paste with jam or jelly, then pour the nut 
paste over the jam, level it, sprinkle with some sliced almonds 
or cocoanut, and bake in a medium oven. When cold, divide 
in 3-inch-wide strips and cut the strips into fingers. The 
preceding nut pastes may be used by adding chocolate, making 
into finger shapes. 

Strips and Slices, Fancy Macaroon Paste 

From rolled out short paste cut 2V2-inch-wide strips. Set 
on pans, and with bag and star tube run a strip of fancy 
macaroon paste on each side, and one strip along the center 
of the short paste. Let stand and dry for half hour or more, 
then bake. When baked run a pink or white icing in one space 
between the strips, and a strip of chocolate on the other side 
of the center strip of almond paste, then cut in fingers while 
warm. 

Another way is to run one strip of macaroon paste on 
each side, fill center space with jam, and bake. Then cover 
jam with icing, which may be put on in strips of two or three 
colors. 

Mocha Slices — Chantilly Cream Slice 

Bake 21/2-mch-wide strips of short paste. Put two strips 
together with good jam or jelly. With bag and star tube 
put on a border and center strip of butter cream, covering 

184 



< AKES FDR BAKERS 



the baked strip entirely. The center strip may be colored 

pink, side strips left white; other flavors and colors make 

quite a variety. Whipped cream or a combination of both 

is may be used. Cut in slices with knife dipped in hot 

water t<» produce a clean cut. 

Meringue and MarshmaDow slices 

3-inch-wide strips of short paste, or take baked 
sheets of Bponge cake or jelly-roll mixture and cut in 3-inch 
strips. Cover with good jam. Cover this with a standard 
cold meringue, raising tin- meringue high in center to form a 
triangle cut. Dust with powdered sugar, Bet on double pans 
or board, and brown nicely. The slices may be iced in pink 
or chocolate and cut with a knife dipped in hot water, same 
as cream slices. The meringue may be put on with bag and 
plain tube, first three strips <»n bottom, then two strips on top 
of the three, then one strip on the top, pyramid fashion. 

Other meringue slices may be made of puff paste, baking 
strips with a border. Put jelly on strip, then cover with 
various Savored pastry cream-, or lemon or orange cream, 
and cover this with strips of meringue a soft meringue. 
Brown nicely, then cut in sli< 

In this manner many nice pastry cuts may he made, with 
fresh berries or other fresh fruit in season. These cuts are 
good sellers in the lunchrooms. Marshmallow may be used in 
the place of meringue, letting the marshmallow set and dry 
before cutting: in slices without 1 taking, sprinkling the marsh- 
mallow with finely chopped browned nuts, or icing- the slices 
with chocolate or fondant. Slices may be decorated with 
jelly or with half a cherry placed on each cut. 

CREAM PUFFS, ECLAIRS, CHOUX OR CREAM BUNS 

Cream puffs and eclairs are made of the pastes given in 
chapter on pastes. 

The name "Cream Buns" is used largely by British con- 
fectioners for cakes made from the same paste, also from a 
cream puff paste containing sugar. The cream buns are cov- 
ered with a special tin made for baking cream buns; this 

185 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



gives a glossy appearance, and cakes containing sugar do not 
brown too quickly under cover. 

"Pate au Choux" is the French name for cream puff paste, 
which is often made with sugar, the same as St. Honore paste 
or French fried cake paste. Cream Buns and "Choux" may 
be made from the following paste: Take 1^4 pints water, 1 
pound flour, 12 ounces butter and lard, 3 ounces sugar, 12 
eggs or more to make a smooth paste. Set water, sugar and 
fats to boil. When boiling add the sifted flour, and mix to 
a smooth paste; put in bowl and gradually add the eggs in 
small portions, mixing well between each addition. Mix to a 
smooth paste, add a pinch of powdered ammonia. Drop out 
in small drops, size of a walnut, or set on pans in small 3-inch 
fingers for eclairs. 

Cream Puffs 

Fill the baked puffs with plain pastry cream and set on 
pans. Sift a little icing sugar over the filled up puffs, and 
they are ready for sale. 

Cream Puffs with Whipped Cream 

Cut a slice off the top entirely and fill with the whipped 
cream, using a spoon, replace top so as to let the cream show 
on the sides; dust with icing sugar. 

Cream Buns 

Fill the same as other cream puffs, with pastry cream, 
whipped cream, or meringue, and dust with icing sugar. 
Fancy cream buns are made rather small and iced with 
variously colored and flavored fondant, sprinkled with some 
browned chopped almonds. 

Eclairs, Eclair Farcis, Choux Farcis 

Eclairs are made in various sizes in finger shape, measur- 
ing from 2 to 4 inches. They are usually filled with pastry 
cream and, after filling, iced with chocolate, caramel, coffee, 
or other icings. In the French pastry shops very small eclairs, 
about 2 inches long, filled and iced, are named "petit eclair 
farcis," which means, in English, little filled eclairs. Small 

186 



CAKES I'M: BAKERS 

cream puffs which are filled with various creams or jellies 
and then dipped in sugar cooked to the caramel degree, or cov- 
ered with various icings, or brushed with hot jelly or syrup 
and Bprinkled with chopped outs, are given various names, 
such as "choux farcis au caramel/' or "au chocolate," etc., to 
denote the filling or icing or flavor. These small eclairs and 
puffs are covered entirely, like other dipped cakes, and sel on 
wires to drip and dry. 

Other varieties of these cakes are made of cream puff 
paste dressed on the pans in the shape of bananas, with 

pointed ends, filled and iced in pale yellow, with banana- 

fiavored icing. From a firm paste, using bag and star tube, 
fingers and scrolls in S and C shape air sel on pans, let dry 

a little to hold the shapes, then bake. Pill and ice with trans- 
parent fondant or other icings and decorate to suit the fancy. 

MACAROONS AND ALMOND PASTE GOODS 

The ready-made almond paste has come into almost uni- 
versal use in making macaroons and many other fancy cakes. 
It is made from pure almonds and is of a quality which 
always gives satisfaction. The paste is used often with an 
addition of other nut meats. Almonds are blanched, sliced 
or chopped fine; filberts or hazelnuts are usually roasted and 
the brown skin removed; other nut meats, such as walnuts, 
pecans, etc., are simply ground or chopped and mixed with 
the paste. 

To Blanch Almonds 

Cover the dry raw almonds with boiling water. Let stand 
in the water for a few minutes, until the brown skin easily 
slips off when pressed between the fingers, then pour off the 
hot water and cover with cold water. Pistachio nuts may be 
blanched the same as almonds. The blanched almonds may 
be dried on a pan covered with a cloth. If wanted sliced or 
chopped fine the blanched almonds are best used while soft, 
before drying. To make a macaroon paste from freshly 
blanched almonds, the almonds are rubbed to a smooth paste 
in a mortar, and for each pound of almonds 2 pounds coarse 
powdered sugar and sufficient egg whites are added to make 

187 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



a soft paste which can be dropped out with bag and tube. 
(For other macaroon pastes, see chapter on Pastes.) 

Plain Macaroons 

Use the plain macaroon recipe given. Lay out on paper 
with bag and %-inch tube, drop out about the size of a 
quarter of a dollar. Macaroons are made in different sizes, 
depending on whether they are sold by weight or by the 
dozen. After dropping out, the points should be slightly 
pressed down with a wet cloth before baking. If macaroons 
cannot be baked at once, care should be taken that no crust 
forms on them, because this would cause a coarse, uneven 
crack in baking. Bake macaroons in a temperature of from 
280 to 300 degrees. Use thick pans and one thickness of 
paper, or double pans or double paper, so the bottom is well 
protected. Arrange your oven heat by means of door and 
damper. It is well to leave door and sometimes even the 
damper open until the macaroons have spread and show a 
nice crack; then damper may be closed, also door if required, 
so the cakes bake to a nice light brown color, which takes 
about 18 to 20 minutes at the given temperature. 

Jelly Macaroons 

Make like plain macaroons and bake as usual. While 
warm from the oven make dent in center size of pencil, fill 
with jelly or jam, and put a drop of icing on top of jelly. 
Another method is to turn the macaroons over on granulated 
sugar, or dust them with granulated sugar, shake off the 
surplus, then bake and fill. 

Lemon or Orange Macaroons 

Make the plain macaroon paste slightly firmer and add 
for each pound of almond paste the grated rind of two lemons 
or two oranges. Drop them out slightly larger than plain 
macaroons, turn over on granulated sugar, and bake. When 
cold remove from paper and ice bottom with lemon or orange 
flavored and colored icing, let dry, and decorate center of top 
with a dot of icing, using various colors. 

188 



CAKES FDR BAKER S 

( !hocolate Macaroons 
Take 2 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds (i ounces sugar 
half granulated, half powdered I ounces chocolate, a scant 
pint of egg whites, a little powdered cinnamon. Melt the 
chocolate and add to worked-up mixture last. Regulate the 
stiffness of mixture, making it about tin- same consistency as 
plain macarooi D - on paper as usual and sprinkle with 
granulated sugar, or use white nonpareil sugar. Bake in 
about 280 to 300 degrees on double paper, or use double pans. 
Car.- must be taken in baking, because the dark color Is 
deceiving, not to underbake or overbake. These macaroons 
may be further decorated by making an impression in the top 
immediately after baking and filling the dent with Icings in 
contrasting colors, placing a silver dragee in the center. 

Macaroon Fingers 
These may be made from the plain macaroon paste and 

also from the chocolate macaroon paste, making these pastes 

slightly firmer with a little Hour, or adding a few cake crumbs; 

or chopped browned almonds may be added. The fingers are 
dressed on paper the size of ladyfingers, turned over in a 
mixture of chopped or sliced almonds and coarse sugar, then 
baked to a nice color. Another way is to take 1 pound almond 
paste. 1 pound ground almonds. 1 pound cake crumbs, 2 pounds 
coarse powdered sugar. Work this into a paste with yolks of 
eggs. This paste is rolled into strips as long as the pan, 
flattened and washed with egg, sprinkled with chopped 
almonds and baked, then cut on the pans in neat fingers. 

Dutch .Macaroons 

Make a soft macaroon mixture, using 1 pound almond 
paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, flavor of cardamom Lay out 
with plain tube in round or oval shape and let stand until 
a crust forms, which takes from 6 to 12 hours. Cut along the 
center with a sharp thin knife dipped in water, and bake in 
medium heat. These may be put together with a little firm 
jam or sold plain. 

Fancy Macaroons 

Many shapes may be made from the plain macaroon paste 
189 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and also from the special fancy macaroon paste given. With 
the plain macaroon paste made slightly firmer all kinds of 
small fancy designs may be piped on papered pans; the same 
may be done with the fancy macaroon paste. Different shapes, 
such as plain rounds, ovals, and dots, are set together in 
various shapes. These are baked and used for bases to pipe 
on the icings to suit the shape, using fondant or icings which 
dry quickly. For the fancy macaroons, which are dressed 
on paper with bag and star tube, the decorating is done with 
candied cherries cut in small pieces, angelica or citron cut in 
diamonds. Blanched and split almonds are also used. Many 
patterns may be invented by the intelligent baker. For the 
fancy macaroons dressed on with star tube, it is best to put 
on the angelica, cherries or diamonds while the mixture is 
soft. Then let the macaroons stand and dry over night, 
before baking, in order to retain their shape. These macaroons 
are baked in a fairly good heat so they brown nicely, and 
when baked they are lightly brushed over with a gum wash 
or a simple syrup to give a nice gloss. Removing the deco- 
rated macaroons from the paper is done by dipping a bag in 
hot water; lay this on the table or pan and set the paper with 
the cakes on top. The cakes will come off easily. 

SMALL FANCY CAKES OF MODELING PASTE 

Potatoes, Pears, Apples or Peaches 

Make a center of stale cake crumbs mixed with a little 
syrup or soft jelly, and form in the shape of the object to be 
made. Roll out some modeling marzipan and cut out with a 
large round cutter. Fold the paste around the centers, 
slightly forming it in the shape desired, and smooth out the 
foldings. For the potatoes form oval shapes, roll in pow- 
dered cocoa, and make the eyes with a small quill. For apples 
and pears form the center in the shape of the natural fruit, 
color the marzipan a pale yellow. The top may be made from 
a whole clove with the berry taken out, the stem of angelica. 
With a large leaf tube and green colored royal icing a leaf 
may be piped on the side. 

When molding the peaches, make a groove on one side as 

190 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in the peach, then place a stem and leaf the same as for 
apples or pears. The cheeks of the fruit may be tinted with 
a wad of cotton dipped in powdered carmine, or by sprinkling 
on a few dots of red color. Colors should not be used too 
strong, which makes the cakes lose their appetizing appear- 
ance. A cake is to t>c eaten, and strongly contrasting colors 
Bhould he avoided. In high grade marzipan goods the cake 

ter may !>.■ left out and marzipan used entirely. 

The cost may he reduced by adding glucose to the almond 

paste and working in as much sugar as it will take up. 
ESaster eggs, large and small heart shapes I'm- St. Valentine's 
day. and many Other decorations, may he made of marzipan. 

Small fancy breads and rolls, twists and pretzels may he 

shaped. Bet on hoards, just colored in a hot oven, then glaced 
with a gum-wash. Forms for modeling the paste may be 
bought from the baker's supply firms. For cake decorating, 
marzipan or almond paste is preferable to gum paste, because 

it is good to .'at. while gum paste is rather for display only. 

( ocoanut Macaroons 

No. 1 — 3 pounds macaroon cocoanut, l'-j pounds sugar- 
half granulated, half powdered, about - 1 i pounds egg white 
or more, according to dryness of cocoanut. Mix this together 
in kettle on the fire and stir so it becomes clear and hot with- 
out boiling. Take oil and let cool a little, then drop out 
with bag and plain tube. The mixture should not be too soft. 
Flatten tops with damp cloth and hake the same as almond 
macaroons. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 2 pounds granulated 
sugar, 1 ' o pounds powdered sugar, 8 ounces corn flour, 1 to 
l 1 |. pints egg whites. Mix on fire like No. 1. Let cool and 
drop on greased and flour-dusted pans. 

Macaroons of Freshly Grated Cocoanut 

No. 3 — Take even weights of moist freshly grated cocoa- 
nut and granulated sugar, mix well together, then set on fire 
and stir without scorching until mixture is well heated. Take 
off the fire, let cool a little and mix with sufficient egg white 
to form a not too soft mixture, which can be dropped out 

191 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with bag and plain tube on greased and dusted pans. Bake 
in about 300 degrees. 

Chocolate Cocoanut Macaroons 

Add sufficient chocolate to the hot mixture when taken off 
the fire, and add for each ounce chocolate 2 ounces more 
sugar and sufficient egg white to make the mixture of the 
proper consistency. 

Cocoanut Crescents, Half Moons 

Mix 3 pounds cocoanut, 5 pounds sugar, 1 quart egg whites, 
V-2 pound flour together, warm on the fire to make a smooth 
paste, let cool, then dress with bag and tube on pans and 
bake the same as macaroons. 

Almond crescents may be made from a fairly stiff plain 
macaroon paste, dressed in crescent shape or horseshoe shape 
on paper, sprinkled with a few chopped almonds, then baked 
like macaroons. They may also be made with a base cut from 
plain short paste, set on lightly greased pans, the macaroon 
paste dressed on top of the short paste and baked. Fancy 
cakes of this kind may be dipped in fondant or iced. These 
are known in French pastry shops as "Demi-lune aux 
Amandes." 

Cocoanut Macaroon, Cold Mixture 

Beat 1 quart egg whites light, add about 4 ounces granu- 
lated sugar; then mix together 3% pounds sugar — half 
powdered, half granulated, 4 ounces flour, 4 ounces cornmeal 
and 3 to 3V2 pounds short cocoanut ; mix with the egg whites. 
Dress on paper with bag and plain tube, flatten top lightly 
with wet cloth, then bake in 280 to 300 degrees, on papered 
tins. 

MERINGUES AND FANCY KISSES 

From the meringue paste given quite a line of very attrac- 
tive cakes can be made. They may be varied in flavor and 
color, made in combinations with nut meats, containing spices, 
chocolate or fruit flavors. One variety of kisses and shells 
are baked on wet boards, soaked in water and covered with 

192 



C \K1> FOR BAKERS 

paper. The boards are best made of non-resinous wood of a 
so they may be soaked in water in the sink or other con- 
venient place. The boards Bhould be about - inches thick. 
Other kinds of meringues may be dressed on lightly greased 
and Rour-dusted pans or on papered tins. A proper heat for 
meringues and kisses should be about 240 degrees and the 
damper should be kepi open without having too much draft. 

( loci .uiui Kisses 

- the cold meringue paste, made with •"• pounds stand- 
ard powdered sugar (or half powdered Bugar, half fine gran- 
ulated Bugar), with bag and large star tube in rings of about 
2 inches diameter, on lightly greased and dusted pans. 
Sprinkle with long shredded cocoanut. Turn pan upside down 
to remove the surplus cocoanut. then dry to a light in-own. 

Soft Cocoanut Kisses 

Dress small round or oval shapes on wet paper-covered 
boards, sprinkle with long shredded cocoanut, shake off 

surplus and dust with powdered sugar. Bake these to a very 

light brown color, then slide the shapes oil the paper, and 

put together. Set on papered pans. 

.Jellied Cocoanut Meringue 

Make like the preceding kisses, cover with short cocoanut. 
set on papered boards. Dry to a very light color, then put 
together with a dot of good jelly in the center. 

Orange or Citron Meringue 

Flavor meringue with some finely chopped orange or citron 
peel, dress on wet papered boards with star tube in ovals or 
nut shape, cover with finely chopped walnuts ; put two 
together. 

Filbert Meringues 

Dress small round shapes on one board and the same num- 
ber of high cones on another board. Dust with cinnamon. 
Put both shapes together to represent the filbert. 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Almond or Pistachio Kisses 

Dress finger shapes on papered boards, sprinkle with 
sliced almonds or pistachios, let dry, and put two fingers 
together. Cocoanut and other nut meats may be used. 

Apples or Pears 

Dress round or pear shapes in two colors on the papered 
boards with bag and plain tube. This is done by placing a 
little pink colored meringue in one side of bag, and plain 
white on other side. Drop out in small globules, half round or 
half pear shape. A strip of angelica may be used to represent 
the stem ; a whole clove, from which the berry has been takjan, 
the top. Colored sugar may be sprinkled on, and when dry 
the two shapes may be put together. 

Chocolate Meringue 

Color meringue with powdered cocoa, drop on greased and 
dusted pans in rounds, rings, fingers or scroll shapes, sprinkle 
with cocoanut or chopped almonds. 

Other fancy shapes may be made of meringue, using a 
plain tube for bottom shape. Then use a small star tube and 
form a smaller shape in different color on top of the plain 
shapes. 

Mushrooms 

These are made in two pieces. Round flat bulbs may be 
run out on boards or on paper. On another sheet, with a 
smaller tube, pointed stems are run off and dried in cool 
oven. The tops may now be taken from the paper and the 
bottoms dusted with cocoa; then the points of the stems 
may be inserted in the bottom with a little meringue or other 
icing. 

Other combination cakes are made from sponge drops and 
meringue drops of the same size, put together with various 
fillings and icings. The meringue drops may be dressed on 
boards or on dusted pans, baked, and kept on hand to use as 
required. 

194 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

Mei mum Shells, Bastei Eggs 

We are laid out on boards with bag and plain tube 
in the shape of tin- ordinary egg. With a little practice they 
may be laid out smooth, without any point. They are dusted 
with sugar and dried rather than baked, in a cool oven. When 
taken off the paper the Boft center is scooped out with a small 
spoon and smoothed down, and the Bhells are dried a little 
more. Another plainer way Is t<» bake them on plain paper 
ami simply press in the bottom. TTie Bhells are put together, 
filled with whipped cream or meringue, or with preserves, 
decorated and iced in different colors. 

Meringue Baskete 

Dress up large shells same as for Master eggs, bake and 
Bcoop out, let dry, turn upside down and put on four dots of 
royal Icing or meringue to serve as feet; lei dry, then make 
a fancy holder with vari-colored icing, and nil with whipped 
cream or ice cream, etc. The handle may he made of a strip 
of angelica, or handles may he made from royal icing, put mi 

a halt' round waxed tin. loft to dry. and put over the filling. 
Animals and Figures 

This requires a little practice, hut a large variety may be 
made by using two colors of paste in one bag, laying them 
out on paper or lightly greased and dusted pans. Use bag 

and plain tube. Pigeons and roosters are made by starting 
to lay out the tail; form the body, and lastly draw up the 
head ; then put on the wings, feet and eyes. Swans and large 
birds are made on one side only, to lay Hat on the pan; others 
can be made to sit up straight. 

For some animals a foundation may be made, forming a 
flat bottom. Sprinkle this with green colored sugar, then 
with a plain tube the animal figure is put on, starting at the 
back of the body in "S" shape. Next make the head; put 
on ears, legs and tail, eyes and dry in very slow heat. 

Floral Meringues 

These may be made by starting with a dot of rose-colored 
meringue on pan. Let dry lightly, then put on the petals 

195 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with flat large rose tube, curving the petals around the raised 
dot, lifting them to give the appearance of an open rose. 
Dust them lightly with fine powdered sugar, and let dry care- 
fully. Other flowers are made in the same fashion. 

Large and Small Tart Cases of Meringue 

From the standard meringue a plain bottom with a high 
border is dressed on paper of the size required. With a star 
tube a fancy top of the same size is also dressed on another 
paper. The top may be made a fancy border and latticed, 
in any desired form, and dried in cool oven. These large or 
small shapes may be kept on hand. Before using put in a 
cool place, then fill with whipped cream, mocha cream, ice 
cream, or combinations of berries and cream. Two or more 
bottoms may be set together and decorated. 

Strawberry or Raspberry Meringue Tart Specialty 

Boil together 1 pint strawberry or raspberry juice and 
2 pounds sugar, or use % pint water, colored and flavored with 
extract and citric acid. In the meantime beat up 16 egg 
whites and add a handful of icing sugar. When sugar is 
boiled to strong thread, or 230 degrees, pour it slowly into 
the egg whites, beating constantly until the mixture cools. 
Fill ready-baked cases or small basket shapes of short paste 
partly with good strawberry or raspberry jam. Then place 
a pyramid of the meringue on top of the fruit. Dry lightly ; 
then glace with fondant. Of course other meringue may be 
used for covering small tarts and cakes in similar manner. 



196 



XI. YEAST-RAISED DOUGH 
AM) PASTRY 



Thru- is quite a range in the quality of the yeast-raised 
• doughs, which are made in various degrees of richness 
to suit the oeeda of the trade. All milk, or half water and 
half milk, may be used, with from 5 to 12 ounces of sugar 
and from 1 to 16 ounces of butter or butter and lard for each 
quart of liquid. Bggs should be of the best grades, from 
2 to 5 eggs and more per quart. In low-priced Roods eggs 
are left out, color often taking their place, but the eggs give 
the doughs a lightness which cannot be produced without 
them. These rich doughs require plenty of yeast to keep in 
the sweetness and make them perfect. 

Straight doughs and sponge doughs are both used with 
success, but to keep in the Bweetness many bakers prefer a 
short quick sponge with plenty of yeast, followed by a short 
dough, to a long straight dough. Coffee-cake doughs are 
made rather soft, which method works best, and the time may 
be shortened or lengthened by using more or less yeast, to 
suit the conditions of the shop. It is best for these doughs 
to keep them at a warm temperature and maintain it through- 
out, during the time on the bench and when proving; chill- 
ing and cooling must be avoided. (Yeast-raised pastry doughs 
differ. They must be handled cool when rolling in the extra 
butter, and must be proved cool for the same reason). A 
short quick dough may be made by increasing the yeast, 
making a very soft batter sponge, using all of the liquid. 
This may be done as follows: For each quart of liquid take 
4 to 5 ounces of yeast, and use only 1 pound of flour; set 
sponge at 90 to 95 degrees. The sponge will rise and drop in 
about 30 minutes. Add the creamed sugar, shortening, eggs, 
etc., and make a soft dough, adding the necessary flour, which 
should be warmed to maintain the temperature. Let dough 
rise and break, push down, and it is ready for use. A good 

197 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



first patent flour, spring- wheat or Kansas hard wheat, is 
preferred. If the bread flour is very hard and strong, from 
one-third to one-fourth of soft winter wheat flour may be 
used. Malt extract may be used to hasten fermentation and 
strengthen the yeast. Light brown sugar is preferred by some 
bakers, or half granulated and half brown sugar is used. 

STANDARD SWEET DOUGHS 

No. 1 — 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, 3 pounds sugar, 
2 pounds butter, or butter and lard (salt according to salti- 
ness of butter), 1 pint eggs or half yolks, half whole eggs, 
lemon extract or, better, the grated rind of 2 to 3 lemons, 
14 ounce mace, 4 to 8 ounces yeast. Flour as required to 
make a medium smooth dough. 

No. 2 — 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, 21/2 pounds sugar, 
21/2 pounds butter and lard, 5 eggs, flavor of lemon and mace, 
4 to 5 ounces yeast. 

No. 3 — 1 gallon liquid, half and h&lf, 2 pounds sugar, 
2 pounds shortening, 5 eggs or egg color, flavor of lemon and 
mace, 5 ounces yeast. 

No. 4 — 1 gallon water, 6 to 8 ounces dry milk, 2 to 2 14 
pounds sugar, l 1 /? to 2 pounds lard, 2 ounces salt, 5 to 6 
ounces yeast. 

The sweet doughs are also used for yeast-raised dough- 
nuts, jelly balls or Bismarcks, but a rather soft dough is best 
suited for fried good. 

For straight doughs, dissolve the yeast separately; cream 
sugar, shortening, eggs and flavor; mix liquid and flour, add 
the dissolved yeast, add sugar and shortening, and mix dough 
thoroughly. Maintain a warm temperature, from 83 to 85 
degrees Fahr., up to 90 degrees for a quick dough. Let dough 
come up full to the point of losing resistance, then let come 
half and take. 

For sponge doughs, use half or two-thirds of the liquid in 
the sponge ; a large sponge is preferred by many bakers. Set 
a soft sponge with two-thirds of the liquid, with 2 to 2i/> 
pounds flour for each quart. Take sponge when it breaks, add 
the rest of the liquid at the proper temperature, then break 
up fine and add the creamed sugar and shortening. The 

198 



CAKES 1 OK BAKERS 



creaming of sugar and shortening with eggs improves the 
texture of the dough. Water may be used in the sponge. 
milk for doughing, and if using soft Hour put the hard flour 
in the sponge, the Bofl flour for the dough. Let dough gel 
ready to drop once, then punch down, let come half and take. 
The ready doughs may be used for large and small coffee- 
cakes and for special buns and rolls. Or a part of the dough 

may be taken after the first rise; sponge dough when mixed 

and add moiv sugar, butter and eggs to make a very soft 
dough for form cake. 

SPEC! \1 COFFEE-CAKE DOUGHS 

Special doughs known as Vienna or French coffee-cake, 

or by the nam.- of j -east-raised pastry, are made from stand- 
ard sweet doughs. The ready dough is set in a cool place to 
stiffen, and some cold but pliable butter is rolled into the 
cold dough and given two times three foldings — the same as 
for puff paste— and after a little rest it is worked up in 

Various shapes. 

Danish and Swedish pastry dough, also French pastry 
dough, are yeast-raised pastry doughs made by a shorter 
method. A cool straight dough is made, same as the standard 
dough given, but with the difference that l>y using a very 
large quantity of yeast the 1 Hitter may be rolled in as soon 
as the dough is made, instead of setting a sponge or making 
a long-time straight dough, the method used for regular 
coffee-cake doughs. 

Butter produces the best flavored goods, and it is advisable 
to use the best butter where the proper price may be asked. 
But many bakers use a mixture of butter and pastry butterine 
which works even better than butter alone, because it is more 
plastic. When butter is very soft, work from 2 to 4 ounces 
of flour into each pound of butter; this facilitates rolling. 
Take a tub of creamery butter and one tub of pastry butter- 
ine, put in dough mixer and mix together. This mixture is 
well adapted for rolled-in pastry and for regular puff paste. 

ROLLED-IN PASTRY DOUGH 

Take 6 pounds of ready coffee-cake dough made from any 
of the formulas given. Set to cool, or roll out and lay on 

199 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



dusted pan and set to cool. Roll this into an oblong, three 
times as long as wide, and divide from 1 to IV2 pounds of 
firm butter in small pieces over two-thirds of the dough. Fold 
in three, give a little rest, fold again in three, and it is ready 
to be worked up in a variety of shapes. Work dough up 
and prove in cool shop. The dough must be handled cool to 
prevent the butter from running out when working up and 
proving the goods. 

DANISH AND OTHER PASTRIES 

Danish pastry has become very popular in recent years. 
It differs from the old-time yeast-raised puff pastries in that 
it is more quickly prepared. The same pastry has been made 
many years, only it was less known by this name. The older 
method required less yeast. Slow-working doughs were used 
in these sweet doughs as well as in bread-making, but gradu- 
ally speedier methods and quickly made doughs with plenty of 
yeast have taken the place of the slower methods. The pro- 
cesses still vary in different bakeries, and the same pastries 
go by the name of Vienna, French, Danish and Swedish 
pastries. One writer has even named some of them Brazilian 
pastries. 

The name makes very little difference if the goods are 
of good quality, and the principle of making the doughs is 
practically the same as followed in making other puff pastries. 
They consist of a basic dough which is made cold and of the 
same consistency as the butter that is rolled in. They must be 
handled under proper conditions, and because of the large 
amounts of yeast in these doughs they must be kept cool, to 
keep the yeast dormant, and the goods must be made up 
quickly and got on the pans before the yeast starts to work. 
When on the pans they are given time to prove up in the 
ordinary shop temperature or in cool prover until ready for 
the oven. If not proved cool the butter will run out, and 
they are baked with short proof only because the large amount 
of yeast and the rolled-in butter makes them expand in baking. 

The flour for these goods should be fairly strong, a blend of 
two-thirds spring wheat or hard wheat flour with one-third 
cake flour being considered a good proportion for the basic 

200 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

dough. This dough is made in some bakeries in the evening 
and kept in the ice box overnight, the butter being rolled in 
thf next morning. Other bakers finish the rolling in of the 
butter and let the ready dough stand in the ice box overnight 
Others again make the dough, lei it rest for half an hour or 
more, roll in the butter, and after giving another hour to rest 
up and stiffen work it up. All these methods work satis- 
factorily. The butter should be plastic and tough, the dough 
of the same consistency as the butter; pastry butterine is 
often used in even portions with butter, and gives good satis- 
faction. Both butters are first worked together in the cake 
machine and kepi on hand for making pastries. 

The following formulas arc used in different bakeries. 
We are giving small quantities in the formulas, which may 
be increased as the volume of trade demands. 

Danish Pastry Doughs, i -Quart Formulas 

No. 1 — 1 quart cold milk, 1 ounces yeast, 5 whole eggs, 
5 yolks, 8 ounces butter, 10 ounces sugar, the grated rind 
of one lemon, from .".■"• , to 1 pounds Hour — one-fourth pastry 
Hour, three-fourths bread Hour. 

Method of mixing: Dissolve yeast in the milk, add sugar 
and eggs, butter and rind of lemon, dissolve Sugar, add the 
flour and make a smooth , cool dough, a little stiff er than the 
consistency of the butter to he rolled in, because the dough will 
slacken some. Form dough into a square and set covered in 
the ice box for half an hour before rolling in the butter. After 
giving this rest the dough will show life and may now be put 
on the dusted bench or on cool slab, dusted with flour. It is 
figured that 5 pounds of dough require 1 pound of butter 
for rolling in, so the batch given would require l'/2 pounds 
butter. Roll out the dough to about one-third of an inch in 
thickness, three times as long as wide ; divide the butter over 
two-thirds of the dough, fold the bare part of dough over half 
of the buttered part, then lap over the buttered part to form 
two layers of butter between three layers of dough, and press 
down the sides to inclose the butter. Again roll out to same 
size as before and fold again in three. Then give dough 20 
to 30 minutes rest in the ice box before working up. Danish 

201 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



pastry is usually given only two foldings, but one or two more 
foldings often improve dough, forming smaller layers and 
making dough lighter. 

Pastry Dough Left in Refrigerator Overnight 

No. II. — 1 quart milk, 3 ounces yeast, 10 ounces sugar, 1/2 
pound butter, the grated rind of 1 lemon, 4 pounds flour. This 
dough is made ready in the evening, 11/2 pounds butter rolled 
in, put in ice box at 45 to 55 degrees, and worked up the next 
morning. 

No. III. — 1 quart milk, iy 2 ounces yeast, i/ 2 pound sugar, 
4 ounces compound, 14 ounce salt, 3 eggs, 3% to 4 pounds 
flour. This dough is made in the evening, kept cool, and 11/2 
pounds of butter are rolled in the dough in the morning. 

Swedish Pastry Dough 

To 1 quart half milk and half water, take 4 ounces yeast, 
3 eggs, 14 ounce salt, 6 ounces sugar, 6 to 8 ounces butter 
and lard, flavor of mace and lemon, 31/2 to 4 pounds flour. 
Prepare dough like the previous doughs, let rest 15 to 20 
minutes, and roll in 1 pound butter. 

This dough is largely used for a square roll, known as 
Swedish roll, butter roll, etc., and can be made up into high- 
grade pretzels, twists, scrolls, snails and other larger sized 
rings, also into coffee-cakes. This dough being less rich, can 
be worked up in the ordinary shop temperature in cool 
weather; during the warm season the pieces of dough after 
rolling in the butter may be kept in ice box and worked up 
a piece at a time on the bench. The goods are given fairly 
good proof on the pans and are good sellers. 

FILLED GOODS 

The ready doughs to be worked up are rolled in sheets. 
These are cut in wide strips or special pieces which are spread 
with a filling, folded up and cut in smaller strips or pieces and 
made up in many shapes. Pastry creams, almond and nut fill- 
ings, also good fruit jams and many other special fillings are 
used. 

202 



•i; BAKERS 

Umond Cream 1 illinu 

l quart Bweet milk, l ounces Bugar, i ounces almond paste 
>lved in the milk. 2'- ounces cornstarch, I yolks, vanilla 
flavor, l ounce butter. 

olve starch in a little cold milk and mix with yolks. 

Bet balance of milk t«> boil with Bugar and the dissolved almond 
Let come to boil, stir in the starch, let thicken, take 
oil' the fire, add butter, stir until cool, add vanilla flavor: in 
the place of almond paste this cream may be mixed with a fev. 
ounces of browned brushed almonds, or roasted filberts. 

Nut or Almond Fillings 

Mix i g pound almond paste with ' 2 pound chopped almonds 

or nut meats, add l pound sugar, l pound butter and 6 eggs; 
mix into a soft spreading past*', adding water it" required. 

The fillings may i>«- mad*- less expensive by adding more 
or less good cake crumbs, making a paste which may be 
thinned up with water t«. spreading consistency. Any good 
fruit .jam, such as pineapple, raspberry, apricot, etc. can be 
used. 

With the different fillings of custard creams, fruit.-, mil 

and almond fillings quite a variety in taste and shape can he 
produced. 

Twists, Scrolls and Snails 

Roll dough out into a thin sheet, from 18 to 24 inches wide, 
any length desired; spread with a cream or almond filling, 
fold in three to make a flat strip, roll slightly thinner, then 
cut in 1-inch strips of a size to sell for 10 to 15 cents each. 
Make up in a variety of shapes. First twist the strip in rope 
fashion to inclose the filling. 

1 — Form in rings and join ends nicely and set on pans. 

2 — Form in rings, stretch ring slightly and twist in the 
center to form a figure eight. 

3 — Make up the twist in pretzel shape. 

4 — Make up a long strip as for pretzels but coil up each 
end in opposite direction and put on pans, forming an S-shaped 
scroll. 

203 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



5 — Make up as before but coil each end to form a crescent 
shape with the ends toward the front coiled inward. 

6 — Make the first twist but coil up in spiral or snail shape. 

7 — Form twisted piece in crescent shape. 

Wash the goods with a rich egg wash before fully proved, 
sprinkle with sugar mixed with chopped almonds, etc. The 
snails and scrolls may be finished by placing a dot of apricot 
or other fruit jam in the center, putting a ring of custard 
cream on top of the fruit. After baking a dot of icing and 
half a candied cherry in the center will finish the appearance. 

Crescents 

Other crescents may be made by cutting triangular pieces 
from a strip. Spread each piece with jam and sprinkle a few 
chopped nuts over, then roll up from the broad side to make 
a crescent, wash and sprinkle with chopped nuts, set on pans, 
let prove and bake. These may also be finished with a little 
fondant icing or covered with butter cream when cold and 
rolled in coarse chopped nuts. 

Turnovers — Rissoles — Triangles 

These are cut out in rounds, ovals or squares, of about 
31/2 inches in diameter, from paste rolled out !/4 inch thick. 
The rounds are filled with a dot of good almond or cream 
filling, the sides folded over the filling to inclose it, and the 
sides pressed down. Set on pans, wash with egg and sprinkle 
with chopped almonds or nuts. The squares can be folded in 
triangle shape. They may be finished with a scroll of butter 
cream or fondant and in other ways. 

Swedish or Danish Cream Tarts 

No. I — Roll dough out in sheet one-fifth inch thick, cut with 
plain or scalloped S'/j-inch cutter. Lay the disks in greased 
cup cake tins or patty tins and press up on sides, fill a dot of 
jam in the bottom, and cover with almond cream or custard 
when half proved. Finish proving and bake, brush over with a 
syrup, put a dot of icing in the center and a cherry on top of 
icing. 

No. II. — Roll a sheet of paste up as for jelly roll. Have it 

204 



CAKES FOB BAKERS 



of 3 inches diameter, cut in ' j inch thick slices, lay the slices 
«>r rounds in the greased cup cake tins, let prove up nearly 

full, egg wash and put dot of almond Riling in the center. 
Bake in fairly good OVen, finish with icing and a cherry in 

center. 

Scrolls, C shapes and snails may be made quickly, differ- 
ent from the twisted g Is. by filling a sheet of paste, doubling 

it up and rolling it out 1<» inches wide. For snails roll up 
from one Bide, cut in :! ;; inch slices or rounds, and set on pans; 
roll up the sheet from opposite directions until they meet in 
the center, cut in slices. For ('-shapes, roll up from both 
-. forming two small rolls meeting in the center. Then cut 

anil set on pans, let plow, egg wash, and finish like the other 
twisted scrolls, with a dot of jam. covered with cream, in the 

center. 

Envelopes Fruit and Cream Squares 

for envelopes, spread an H-inch wide strip with almond or 
fruit jam. Fold in three, inclosing the fillings, flatten and 
cut in pieces about ■".'- inches wide on one side, 2 ' -j inches 
wide on bottom, egg wash and sprinkle with sugar and chopped 
nuts; set on pans, prove and hake. 

F'or fruit or cream squares roll dough out j i inch thick. 
Cut in 3-inch squares, till a dot of fruit or cream in the center, 
fold in the corners and set on pans. Egg wash when proved 
and hake in good oven. When baked put a dot of icing on 
fruit or cream. 

Large Filled Torten 

Roll dough out into sheet and cut in long squares to w r eigh 
from 10 to 12 ounces, fill with fruit or almond filling, roll up 
and stretch slightly, set in ring form. Let prove up half, cut 
around the center half through, not cutting to ends so they 
hold together, egg wash, sprinkle with blanched sliced almonds 
and bake in medium heat. Ice with vanilla icing when cold. 

Filled Stollen 

Take 12 to 16 ounces of dough, roll evenly about 14 inch 
thick, cover with almond filling, then fold in from both sides, 

205 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



lapping one side over twice, to the center. Flatten this roll, 
then fold in twice from the other side to form a stollen similar 
to pocketbook roll, let prove on pans, egg wash, and bake 
in medium heat. Ice with vanilla and sprinkle browned 
chopped almonds on the icing. 

Quite a variety of other small goods can be made by roll- 
ing dough out thin. Spread with a filling or sprinkle with 
small raisins, chopped nuts, sugar and cinnamon, roll up to 
form a long but narrow roll, of about 11/2 inches diameter, 
cut this roll in 3-inch pieces and set on pans. The pieces 
are then cut from one side or from both sides, leaving i/ 2 inch 
space in center, and cut only half through, so the sides fall 
apart in proving. 

Several shapes can be made by having a roll 2 inches thick. 
Cut this roll in 2-inch slices, push a small rolling pin down 
in the center almost to bottom ; this brings the cut sides up on 
each side. Set on pans, egg wash and sprinkle with sugar and 
chopped nuts, and when fully proved bake in good heat. Ice 
when baked. 

Swedish Rolls— Butter Rolls 

From the Swedish dough given a quickly made roll which 
has proved a good seller can be made as follows: When 
making the dough and giving it the second turn roll dough 
out and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar mixed with ground wal- 
nuts or pecans. Fold dough over and roll into a sheet one-third 
inch thick, cut in 3-inch wide strips and cut the strips in 3-inch 
squares. This can be done in the ordinary shop temperature 
if dough is kept cool. Fold the four corners to center evenly 
and press down, set on pans, about 25 rolls on each pan. Egg 
wash and put a dot of pastry custard in the center. Finish 
proving, giving only medium proof, and bake in fairly good 
oven. When baked put a dot of icing on the cream in the 
center. These rolls sell for 35 cents per dozen. 

A good many other forms and shapes of pastry can be 
made. The smaller sizes may also be made of a size to sell 
from 30 to 50 cents each. The success in these goods is based 
on quality, and the right price must be charged to leave some 
profit. By following the suggestion given, using the differ- 

206 






CAKES FOB BAKERS 



ent creams and fillings, there is no end in the changes which 
can be made to vary the goods. 

FORM < IKES— TURK'S HEADS— BUND KUCHEN 

ften made from a good rich coffee cake 
dough, adding to each pound of dough, when it reaches the 
first rise, l ounce more sugar, 2 ounces melted butter, I 
and about 3 ounces mixed fruit, raisins, citron and almonds. 
Mix this into a smooth dough. The forms should I.,, well 
buttered and sprinkled with Borne chopped or shredded 
almonds. The mixture should fill tin- forms about half, given 
only medium proof in the forms, and baked in about 350 
degrees or medium heat. 

Medium Grade Form Cake 

No. 1 — Set a warm sponge with 2 quarts milk, I t«> 6 
ounces yeast, •"> t«» 5V& pounds flour, two-thirds spring wheat, 
one-third cake flour, at 85 t" 95 degrees. Take the sponge 
as it breaks. Cream together i'i pounds sugar, l ( -j pounds 
butter, 8 eggs, flavor of grated rind of lemon. Add this to 

the Sponge and beat up well, add 1 pound sultanas, I ounces 
Chopped almonds. Let prove up half, then scale in the well 

buttered forms sprinkled with chopped almonds. Let doubl \ 
in size, then bake in medium heat. Sift powdered sugar over 
the cakes when baked. 

High-Grade Form Cake 

No. 2 — 2 quarts warm milk. 1 pint whole eggs, ',■•> pint 
yolks, 1% pounds sugar, 1 1 a to 2 pounds butter, 6 ounces 
yeast, 6 pounds flour, half bread flour, half cake flour, 1 pound 
sultanas, 1 pound almonds, [•> pound orange and citron peel 
chopped fine. Mix and handle like No. 1. 

GERMAN STOLLEN 

The stollen is the German holiday fruit cake. Stollen 
keeps well and improves with age. A good rich yeast-raised 
dough, firmer than for coffee-cake, is made by the sponge and 
dough method, and in recent years a straight dough is pre- 
ferred for the richer grade. 

207 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Best Grade Stollen 

No. 1 — 1 quart milk, 3 ounces yeast, % to 1 pound sugar, 
1 to 114, lbs butter, 8 eggs, 1 pound sultanas, 1 pound large 
seeded raisins, IV2 pounds currants, V2 pound almonds, 1 
pound — half citron, half orange peel, the grated rind of a 
lemon, 14 ounce ground mace, 41/2 to 5 pounds medium strong 
bread flour to make a firm dough. 

No. 2 — 1 quart milk, 4 ounces yeast, % pound sugar, % 
to 1 pound butter or part lard, 12 eggs or half yolks, 11/2 
pounds sultanas, 1 pound citron, y 2 pound orange peel, 1/2 
pound ground almonds, flavor of lemon and mace, about 41/2 
pounds of fancy spring patent flour. 

Almond Stollen 

Take mixtures given, omit fruits, add 2 pounds blanched 
and finely chopped almonds, 4 ounces bitter almonds. From 
8 to 12 ounces finely chopped citron and orange peel improves 
the flavor. Stollen may be made from a good coffee-cake 
dough made firmer, and fruits worked in more or less as the 
trade demands. Let the dough come up full once, then let 
come half and take. 

How to Make the Stollen 

The stollen are made in sizes from 1 to 10 pounds. Scale 
off the ready dough and round up and mould in the shape of a 
Vienna loaf, cover and let prove up about half, then take a 
long rolling pin, not too thin, press down along the center and 
roll down so both sides may be folded over like a pocketbook 
or parkerhouse roll, having the bottom side larger than the 
top. Press down lightly and set on flour-dusted pans to prove, 
give about three-fourths proof, or even less if stollen are large. 
In Germany the best grades of stollen are washed with melted 
and cleared butter before going in the oven, and, when baked, 
washed again when warm and sifted over with cinnamon 
sugar, as much as the butter will take up. This may be modi- 
fied by washing the stollen with milk before baking, and with 
melted butter after baking. In American bakeries stollen 
made from less rich mixtures are washed with egg before 
baking, and lightly iced after baking. 

208 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



stoik-n of Plain Sweet Dough 

Pieces of dough are scaled from :t ( to l 1 , pounds, rounded 
up, and when half proved rolled into flat ovals about i_ by 6 
inches. Brush over with melted butter and sprinkle thickly 
with cinnamon sugar and some ground almonds or walnuts. 
Then roll up like crescents from the narrow end, and shape 
like a Vienna loaf. Let prove up half and make a cut length- 
wise, not cutting quite through to bottom nor to the 'Mid.-, 
to prevent falling apart. Give more proof, egg wash and hake 
in medium heat. When baked ice with vanilla icing and 
sprinkle a few chopped nuts on top. 

Zwieback Doughs 

Zwieback in different shapes may be made from the stan- 
dard doughs N'o. l and No. •_!. preferably by the sponge and 
dough pro© 

MAKING VARIOUS GRADES OF SWEET DOUGH FROM 
ONE LARGE SPONGE, OR FROM BREAD SPONGE 

Figuring that 5 pounds sponge dough represents 2 pounds 
water or milk and 3 pounds flour (the average amount used in 
sponge doughs), in the place of setting small 2-quart sponge 
doughs, a simpler way is to weigh out from the ready larger 
sponge as much as needed, add more warm milk, also more 
yeast if a lively dough is required, and the enriching ingre- 
dients. Also, more flour as required. Let this dough come 
up once, work down, and it is ready. Examples: 

Plain Sweet Dough for Huns 

Take 20 pounds sponge, 1 quart warm milk, V/\. to V/-i 
pounds sugar, Vfa to 2 pounds shortening, 2 ounces salt. 

Coffee-Cake Dough 

Take 10 pounds sponge, V-2 pint or more warm milk, 2 
ounces yeast, 10 eggs, l</i pounds sugar, V/o pounds butter, 
flavor of lemon and mace. Add flour as required, let dough 
come up once, push down, let come half, and use. 

209 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



FILLINGS USED IN YEAST-RAISED GOODS 

A variety of fillings may be used in the different goods. 
A plain dry filling is made by mixing granulated sugar with 
cinnamon, and a richer filling may be made by adding ground 
nuts or almonds to the sugar. A rich filling is made by grind- 
ing 2 pounds nuts or almonds, 2 pounds almond paste in the 
food chopper, and mixing this with 2 to 3 ounces cinnamon 
and 10 to 15 pounds granulated sugar. 

Soft Crumb Filling 

Mix 1 pound almond paste or ground nutmeats with 3 to 4 
pounds brown sugar, 3 to 4 pounds cake crumbs, and sufficient 
milk or water to a smooth-spreading paste. Flavor with cin- 
namon, grated rind of lemons or vanilla. 

Nut Fillings — Almond Filling 

Mix 14 pound almond paste and V2 pound chopped almonds 
with 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 6 eggs, to a smooth paste ; 
add water if too firm to make a smooth-spreading paste. 

Soft Almond Paste Filling 

Mix 1 pound almond paste with 4 yolks and 2 whole eggs 
and 114 pounds sugar, flavor with lemon rind or vanilla. 

Spiced Nut Filling 

Use raw almonds, filberts, Brazils, walnuts or pecans, grind 
in meat chopper, and mix with sugar and eggs to a smooth 
paste. Flavor with mixed spices, chocolate or vanilla. The 
filling may be made less expensive by adding cake crumbs and 
water to spread nicely. Chopped candied orange peel or citron 
peel improves this paste. 

Berlin Fruit Filling 

Mix 10 ounces ground walnuts, 10 ounces almond paste, 10 
ounces currant or raspberry jam, 114 pounds sugar, into a 
smooth filling with sufficient water. 

Fruit and Nut Filling 

1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound granulated sugar, 114 
210 



< Aki:> 101; iiAKKiis 



pounds almond past*.'. ! , pound butter, \ g pound Beeded raisins. 
chopped fine with 6 ounces citron, l ounces orange peel, mixed 

With Sufficient water. A firmer paste, which may DC rolled in, 

may be made by omitting water, a couple of yolks of eggs 
being used to mix. 

\ arious Nut Fillings 

Various flavored fillings may be made of roasted filberts 
or hazelnuts, light, browned almonds, or any other nutmeats, 

ground and mixed with simple syrup into a smooth paste. 

Grated rind of lemon or orange, chopped fruit, spices, also 

Crumbs, such as broken macaroon.-, wafers and sponge cake. 

may be added to mixture, with enough water to make it spread 
nicely. 

Poppy-Seed Pilling 

Cover poppy seed with water, sel in the oven to soften, and 
keep well covered. When soft, cool and wash with cold water, 

let drain, and add for each pound of the xcvd, nibbed to a 

smooth paste, l pound light crumbs, l /£ pound sugar, and 

flavor with cinnamon and cloves. Add sufficient syrup to 

make a smooth paste. 

Poppy-Seed Cake Pilling 
Set to boil .') pints milk and j •> pound sugar. When milk 
comes to a boil sprinkle ( a pound farina into it, take off the 
lire when it thickens, add j g pound ground poppy seed, mix 
and add 2 ounces butter and 6 yolks of eggs; beat 6 egg whites 
light and add to filling. This filling is used to spread on large 
cakes and baked like cheese cake, and usually iced with a thin 
vanilla fondant icing. 

Cheese Filling 

2 pounds dry cottage cheese, 4 ounces sugar, 5 ounces 
melted butter, 3 ounces flour, 8 yolks, mixed with 5 to 6 ounces 
mixed and chopped citron and raisins to make soft filling. 

Fruit Fillings 

Good firm fruit jams, also crushed fruits or finely cut 
fruits made into a firm filling with a thickener, make very 

211 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



popular fillings for yeast-raised pastry. When fresh fruits 
are in season the fruits are made into a firm compote or 
stew, which may be thickened by adding a little dissolved 
cornstarch, also by adding crumbs. Canned fruits may be used 
as in fruit pie and tart fillings. 

Princess Fruit Filling 

Take 1 pound seeded raisins, 1 pound citron, 1 pound figs, 
1 pound walnuts, 1 pound almonds, run through food chopper. 
Mix this with one pound sugar, 4 eggs, and the juice of 4 to 5 
oranges, into a smooth filling. 

GLACINGS FOR CARES 

Use a rich egg wash made of yokes with a little salt added ; 
water or a little milk may be added. For goods sprinkled with 
sugar the wash is applied rather thinly, so the sugar does not 
melt too quickly. 

Glacing to Use After Baking 

Dissolve 1 ounce gum arabic in 1 quart boiling water, add 
31/2 pounds granulated sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, let boil up 
once. Use on the hot cakes with a brush. 

Fruit Glacing 

Diluted and heated fruit jelly, such as apricot, currant, 
quince or apple jelly, is mixed with hot syrup and applied 
with a brush. 



BUTTER STREUSEL 

No. 1 — Rub 1 pound butter with 1 pound powdered sugar 
and 1/2 teaspoonful mace, smooth, then work into this 2 pounds 
of soft flour to form a ball. Rub this through a coarse sieve. 

No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, 1/2 pound butter, 4 ounces crushed 
almonds, 2 yolks, 1 pound cake flour, cinnamon. 

No. 3 — 1 pound sugar, '/o pound butter, 1% pounds flour, 
flavor of cinnamon. 

Mix ingredients together, same as for short paste. If too 
dry add a sprinkle of milk or water to make a firm paste which 

212 



CAKES POR BAKERS 

may be rubbed between the hands into small globular pieces 
<>r rubbed through a coarse sieve like So. l. 

BUNS 

the Btandard sweet doughs all the different sweet 
buns and coffeecakea can be made. The mixtures may also 
be used for zwieback, doughnuts or jelly balls, and by adding 
fruit and chopped peel a variety of Bpecial buns and cakes is 
evolved. 

Spice Flavoring for Buns 

In place of using the ground spices in buns a combination 
may be made by diluting 5 ounces lemon oil, 2 ounces oil of 
cinnamon, 1 ounce <>ii of cloves, in l quart white cottonseed 

oil. Flavor of mace and nutmeg may be ;u\t\*'i\ to special buns. 

such as hot CTOSS buns. 

Where a dry spice combination is desirable, take ' -j pound 

cinnamon, 1 ounces mac.' or nutmeg, 1 ounce allspice and 
doves, and mix with 1 pound sugar and a few drops of oil of 

lemon, or the grated rind of lemons. Rub well together. Keep 

in closed tins ready for use. 

Hot Cioss Huns 

For each quart of dough add about 1 ounces finely chopped 
citron and 12 ounces currants or small raisins. Season with 
bun spices or simply flavor with mace and grated rind of lemon. 
Make up in round buns. Let prove up half, then flatten down 
on the pans, stamp with the cross; wash and finish proving-, 
and bake in a good heat — about 400 to 450 degrees Fahr. The 
buns may be glaced again with a syrup if desired. 

Sultana Buns — Currant Buns 

To 6 pounds dough add from 12 ounces to 1 pound fruit, 
let prove up, break out in small pieces, mould round or oval, 
set on pans a little distance apart, let prove half, flatten, wash 
and let prove again, bake in good heat. Wash with syrup, or 
ice when baked. 

213 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Almond Buns — Peanut Buns 

Add V2 pound roasted and chopped almonds or peanuts to 
6 pounds dough. Make up in rounds or ovals, flatten, egg wash 
and sprinkle a few chopped almonds or peanuts on top mixed 
with cinnamon sugar. Bake in good heat. 

Streusel Buns 

Use any dough containing some fruit, mould on the bench, 
let prove up half, and pin out in ovals ; set on pans so they 
touch slightly on the sides, wash with milk and sprinkle with 
streusel; let prove, and bake in good heat. Dust with pow- 
dered sugar when baked. 

Lemon, Orange, Citron or Pineapple Buns 

Add a little finely chopped lemon, orange or citron peel to 
coffeecake dough, round up and lay in sugar, put in pans, let 
prove and bake, or make up as usual, give half proof on the 
pans, make a dent in the center of the buns, and fill dent with 
lemon, orange or pineapple cream, or some ready pie filler. 
A medium grade of preserved fruit jam, apple, pineapple, 
raspberry, fig, etc., may also be used for filling. After baking 
a dot of icing may be dropped- on the filling. 

Golden Rolls — Cream Rolls 

Roll dough out 14 inch thick, 18 inches wide, any length 
desired, brush over with melted butter or lard, sprinkle thickly 
with cinnamon sugar containing some ground nut meats. Roll 
up like cinnamon buns, cut in slices, each piece to weigh about 
214 ounces. Set on well greased pans a little distance apart, 
cut sides down and up, flatten evenly, and let prove. Wash 
with egg and milk, and before baking put a ring of pastry 
cream in the center of each, using a bag and small plain tube. 
Bake in good heat. While warm wash with a syrup. 

Cream Fingers 

Prepare and roll out as for golden rolls, but flatten the roll 
before slicing. Cut in long strips and set on the pans so they 
touch on the sides when proved. Then wash and prove and 

214 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

put a Ions strip of cream in the c alter. Bake an. I brush with 
syrup, oi- ice when baked. 

Twisted Cream Roll 
Roll dough «>ut as for golden rolls, brush over with butter, 

dust with SUgar, fold it) three, flatten and cut in strips to 

weigh '2 t»> L' 1 , ounces. Twist each strip into a Btring and 
form int«» a >nail or spiral on tin- pan, flatten lightly, let prove, 
egg wash and till a dot of cream in the center, and hake. Cover 
cream with icing when baked. 

Cr e s ce nt Rous 

Roll out and cut dough in strips as for twisted cream rolls. 

Batten and cut in strips 5 inches long, l inch wide. Make a 
few cuts, forming scallops on one side, and Bet on pans in 
crescent shape. Let prove, egg wash, and ice when baked. 

Another way is to make crescents i».\ rounding up single 
pieces, pin out into ovals, wash with butter and roll up in 
crescents, let prove, wash and bake; ice when baked. 

ZWIEBACK 

For plain zwieback take standard dough No. 1 or No. 2, let 
get ready, break in small j jounce pieces and make in small 
finger shapes, about •"> inches long. Set closely together so as 
to form a long roll the length of the pan. Give good proof 
and bake. Let stand for one day or night, then cut and put 
on pans and toast to a nice brown. Another way is to form 
long narrow loaves from the dough, flatten slightly, prove and 
bake, and then toast well on both sides. 

Hamburg Zwieback 

Use a very soft dough containing eggs, round up in small 
balls, give good proof, and bake in good heat. Let cool well, 
then slice through center with a sharp knife. Set on pans 
and dry-toast in a cool oven. Set tops and bottoms together 
and put away. 

Vienna Zwieback 

Form in long fingers, let prove and bake singly, split and 
toast dry. 

215 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Hungarian or Pressburg Zwieback 

Form in long fingers, set on pans singly, prove and bake. 
The next day cut, not sideways, but through the top longways. 
Make a meringue of 5 egg whites and 1 pound sugar, cover 
the round side of each half with this meringue, and dip in 
chopped almonds. Set on tins, meringue side up, and toast 
slowly. Another variety of zwieback is covered with maca- 
roon paste and dried in a cool oven. 

Anise Zwieback — Almond Zwieback 

A variety of zwieback or toast is made from the regular 
sponge cake mixtures. These are baked in long narrow tins 
or in paper-lined frames about 3 inches wide, II/2 inches high, 
as long as the pan. Let cool when baked, and toast like other 
zwieback. 

Take 1 pound sugar, 8 whole eggs, 4 yolks, i/2 ounce anise, 
1 pound cake flour. Beat up warm and b/eat cool, bake as 
directed. For almond zwieback add about 6 ounces shredded 
almonds when mixing in the flour. 

In the larger factories the zwieback is toasted on wire 
trays, which allows the heat to penetrate uniformly. 

COFFEECAKES 

Cinnamon Streusel Coffeecake 

Use sweet dough, scale off in 12- to 16-ounce pieces, round 
up and let prove half, then roll into a square ; set four cakes in 
a pan 18x25x1, brush over with melted butter, then sprinkle 
with cinnamon sugar or streusel. Let prove up well and bake 
in a good heat. 

Fruit Cakes — Fresh or Canned Fruit 

Apples, peaches, plums, cherries and blueberries are made 
into large and small cakes. For fruit cakes the dough is rolled 
out about % inch in thickness, given a little proof, then the 
fruit is laid on. Apples are peeled, cored and cut in even slices ; 
peaches and plums are stoned and put on in halves ; cherries 
and berries are spread on whole, sugar is added and the cakes 
are given some more proof and then baked in a good heat. The 

216 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



fruit cake may be baked in a Im-^v pan and cut in pieces when 

done. Square8 and round small tins are also used. Fresh 

apples bake more satisfactorily if covered with greased 
paper; this keeps in the steam and cooks them better. 

Cheese Cake 

Roll out 2' | pounds of coffeecake dough to cover a pan 
18x25x1, set in a wood frame - inches high. 

Cream together i'i pounds BUgar, LO ounces butter, add 
L2 yolks of eggs. Rub through a sieve ■">'- pounds cottage 

cheese, mix with BUgar and butter cream, add 8 ounces of 
cornstarch, a little salt and mace, then 1 quart fresh milk. 

Lastly draw in the l- beaten egg whites. Fill this into the 

frame and hake in good heat -".To degrees. 

Round Coffeecake — Raisin Coffeecake 

Add BOme raisins t«> plain dough, scale pieces 12 to 16 

ounces, round up and set <>n pans to prove. When nearly ready 

give three straight cuts, wash with milk or egg wash, and bake 
in moderate oven; ice when baked. Chopped citron and a 
few almonds improve this cake. 

Twisted Rings 

These may be made from the rolled-in doughs, also from 
the plain dough, and in different sizes to suit the price. Take 
a piece of dough from 8 to 16 ounces in weight, roll out and 
divide in three even strips; form the strips into a braid, plait 
evenly, and gain ends nicely together to form a ring. Set on 
pans, allow to prove, and wash over with a good yolk of egg 
wash. Sprinkle with shredded almonds and bake. 

Filled Rings— Stollen— Torten 

Use rich, plain sweet dough, or yeast-raised pastry of any 
kind. Take a long, square piece of dough about 14 inch thick, 
to weigh from 8 to 16 ounces. Roll out to form a long strip, 
from 5 to 6 inches wide and 10 to 12 inches long. F'or high- 
grade goods use the rich nut fillings, poppy seed filling, and 
plain filling for others, or simply brush thickly with melted 
butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar containing nuts. 

217 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Spread the filling over the rolled out dough, then roll up long- 
ways, and form in a ring, joining the ends nicely. 

For stollen or nut rolls roll dough from narrow side and 
slightly close the ends in loaf shape, and set on pans ; or fold 
twice from each side and form in shape of stollen and set on 
pans. 

For torten use the rich Swedish or Danish pastry dough, 
roll out and fold in stollen shape, use the rich almond fillings, 
and set in round shape with pointed ends in tins. 

Filled rings may be cut when partly proved around the 
center, giving a plain cut or using the scissors for a zig-zag 
cut, crown fashion. Stollen are given a straight cut along 
the center about half through, so they do not fall apart. The 
cakes should be washed with a rich egg wash before baking 
and sprinkled with chopped almonds, dusted with sugar when 
baked, or iced when baked and a few chopped nuts or browned 
almonds sprinkled on while the icing is soft. The torte may 
be cut around the center, washed and sprinkled thickly with 
shredded almonds, baked in moderate oven. 

Danish, French, or Almond Filled Coffee-Cakes 

Use same dough as for Danish pastry (see page 200). 
Roll out and scale 12 oz. each. When all are scaled roll out 



FIG. 2 




with pie pin, 12x7 inches, wash with butter, sprinkle with 
ground "nuts" and cinnamon sugar. Take a No. 6 size tube 



218 



IKES FOR BAKERS 
and bag and a mixture of almond filling and run a strip across 

bown in illustration \... 1. In this way you can roll up 

the coffee-cake like a cinnamon roll and still have the almond 
Riling in tin- center. Roll tin- length ^( tin- coffee-cake (l- 
inchea), set pi< on pan, as in Figure No. 2, and 

wash wit' i it with scissors on sides, sprinkle ground 

almonds on top while wash is still wot, and bake in 100 

ee prove only a little. Ice with 
vanilla water icing when still a little warm. Figure cost and 
BeO accordingly. 

tlmond Filling for Coffeecake 

Twenty pounds good cake crumbs, - cans of almonds (10 
pounds), _ quarts of egg whites, about ~i quarts or more of hot 
water and 8 pounds of sugar. Mix well in machine so that it 
will run easily through tubes. 1 always mix enough to last 
for a week and keep In a cool place. 

Pretzels — Fruit and Nut Rollfl 
Cut rolled-OUt pastry dough In long, narrow strips, till with 

nut or almond filling or use a good raspberry jam or other 
fruit filling, fold in two or three folds, pull out and form in 
pretzel shape or twisted ring shapes on pan. Let rise, egg 
wash, and cover with stivusel or with chopped nuts. 

Fruit Roll— Jam Roll— Nut Roll 

Proceed as for pretzels and fold tilling- in the center. Bake 
in large long tins or on pans, or make in small narrow strips 
to divide in pieces to set on pans. Let rise, egg wash and bake. 
Ice when baked and sprinkle a few chopped browned almonds 
on top. 

Pecan Butter Rolls— Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Roll out good plain coffee-cake dough into a sheet i/t inch 
thick, 12 inches wide, as long as desired. Brush over thickly 
with melted butter and cover with a good layer of cinnamon 
sugar containing chopped nuts. Roll up into a long roll, not 
too tightly, cut in pieces to weigh about 21/j. ounces each. Set 
the pieces in a prepared round or square pan with IV2 inch 

219 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



high rims, six, seven or eight pieces in one pan — one piece in 
the center, the others around it. 

The pans must be prepared as follows: Take soft butter 
(not melted) and brush the pans very thickly on bottom and 
sides with the butter. Take brown sugar, sift it well, and 
fill in the buttered pans, shaking out the surplus which does 
not stick to the butter. Set the cut rolls in the pan and let 
prove, then bake in medium heat. The baking requires care. 
Some ovens do not bake evenly; move the pans if this is the 
case, so the sugar melts and browns evenly. Turn out of the 
pans as soon as taken from the oven bottom up. The sugar 
and butter form an appetizing light brown caramel. Some 
bakeries use a 9-inch pan and set in eight rolls to weigh 114 
pounds. The baked rolls are iced lightly. They sell for 40 
cents a pan. 

FRIED CAKES AND YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS 

In the making of fried cakes, correct temperature of fats 
used for frying is of the most importance. The different fats 
require this, and some kinds of fried goods also require 
changes of temperature to make them perfect. If cakes are 
fried too slowly they absorb too much of the fat, and if the 
temperature is too high the crust forms too quickly and the 
cakes stay too small, do not expand as they should, and take 
color too quickly. The temperature must be right to give the 
cakes time to spread and fry without absorbing too much fat. 
When fats must be heated to the smoke point, which means 
the burning or decomposition of the fat, the fat becomes dark 
and quickly decomposes. By using a thermometer to ascertain 
the proper temperature this may be avoided. 

Lards used for frying are more or less refined. Some of 
them smoke at 365 degrees, refined lard at 380 to 385 degrees. 
Highly refined vegetable fats and oils may be heated to 400 
degrees before reaching the smoke point. Fried cakes to be 
right should have a dry and tender crust, nicely browned and 
of uniform color. A rich mixture requires a lower temperature 
in frying than a poorer mixture. French crullers which contain 
a large amount of eggs require slower frying to obtain a very 
crisp crust, because these cakes soften very easily if fried 

220 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



quickly. Jelly balls are very thick and take more time to fry 
in a slower heat, and other yeast-raised goods also require 
less heat in frying than cakes raised with chemicals. Some 
cakes, such as strips, which are immersed entirely and fried 
under the fat, require a higher temperature. 

Some baking powders work faster in the mixtures, and 
it' the cakes are standing on the screens too long or in a warm 
place the cakes rise on the screens or in tin- box and absorb 
too much grease in frying. This is also true of yeast-raised 

Is. If given too much proof they become too light and 
take up too much fat in frying. Since arid phosphates are 
used in the place of cream of tartar many bakers prefer them 
for hand-made fried cakes, because phosphate powders do not 
work out on the bench, requiring heat before they act in the 
dough. For machine mixtures, a quick acting baking pow- 
der, or soda and cream of tartar, is preferred and more desir- 
able than a Blow-acting phosphate powder because the method 
of frying demands <puek expansion in the fat. 

Mixing of Fried Cakes 

Large batches may be partly mixed in the cake machine. 
creaming sugar, shortening and v^<is, adding the milk and 
mixing thoroughly; the soda may be added to milk. Flour 
and baking powder or cream of tartar are best sifted together 
in a bowl, and the creamed sugar, shortening and milk mixed 
in by hand. The machine is apt to toughen mixture, which 
is undesirable. A short soft cake (lour is best to use for fried 
cakes and more or less milk must be used to produce the 
proper consistency according to strength of flour. 

Frying of Cakes 

In frying cakes a constant consumption of fat takes place 
and it is best to keep some melted fat handy for replenishing 
the tank. Where gas is used as fuel to heat the fat, the tem- 
perature of fat may be regulated easily, and when using other 
fuel, a little cold fat may be added to prevent overheating of 
the fat in the tank. 

To test the absorption of the different fats, weigh the fat 
before and after frying, and to find the absorption of the 

221 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



fried cakes by the dozen, weigh a dozen of the cakes before 
frying, and again after frying. The weight gained will very 
closely represent the absorption. 

Sugaring Fried Cakes 

Fried cakes should be given time to cool before they are 
rolled in sugar, otherwise they take up too much. The fried 
cakes are sold plain for a lower price, and the sugared variety 
for a higher price. Yeast-raised fried cakes are rolled in 
granulated sugar, to which some bakers add a dash of cinna- 
mon for flavor. Icing sugar is used for the baking powder 
cakes, and many bakers prefer to add from 2 to 4 ounces 
cornstarch to 5 pounds of icing sugar, sifting it well together. 
This prevents the soaking of sugar and less is required. 

HANDMADE FRIED CAKES AND CRULLERS 

Both cakes are made from the same formula, and where 
large quantities are turned out the round fried cakes are first 
made from the mixture. The dough is rolled out and the 
cakes are cut; then the scraps are worked up for the twisted 
crullers, because the crullers can stand a toughened dough 
better, while the scraps if worked over and rolled out for the 
round cakes make a toughened dough, so that the cakes draw 
up and stay small in frying. 

No. 1 — 1 pound 2 ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 4 eggs, 
4 pounds cake flour, 1 quart milk, 1/2 ounce soda, 1 ounce acid 
phosphate, 1/2 ounce salt, flavor of mace and lemon, or vanilla. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 18 ounces lard, l 1 ^ ounces salt, 
6 eggs, 3 quarts milk, 2 ounces soda, 12 pounds cake flour 
sifted with 4 ounces cream of tartar, flavor of mace or cinna- 
mon extract. 

Buttermilk Fried Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, i/o pound lard, i/> ounce salt, 5 eggs, 2 
quarts buttermilk, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda, 
flavor of mace, about lY-> pounds flour. Cream sugar, short- 
ening and eggs, add milk, soda and flour sifted with acid, and 
mix smooth without overmixing. 

1 quart milk with other ingredients makes from 9 to 10 

222 



CAKES POR BAKERS 



d of fried cakes. FVw crullers use trimmings, or roll 
out ami cut in strips, about I inches long, one inch wide, twist 
and set on Bcreens, and fry under fat, or turn like the round 
cakes. 

strips <n Buttermilk Crullers 

m together 5 pounds Bugar, l pound lard. ' ._. ounce 

s, LVfe ounces salt, flavor of mace or vanilla, add 

5 quarts buttermilk, H'> to L7 pounds flour sifted with ( - pound 

baking powder. Mix as usual and use for strips, crullers or 

round fried cakes. 

MACHINE DROPPED FRIED CAKES 

6 pounds sugar, l pound shortening, l quart yolks, 51/2 
quarts milk. 3 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 20 pounds soft cake 
dour, •; ounces cream of tartar. 1 ounce mace. Mix should 
make 1<> dozen. The mixture should be made from cold ingre- 
dients. Have the grease not for frying as soon as the mixture 
is made. Do not set mixture near the hot stove and do not 
let the dough stand. Flour absorbing more than 6 quarts 

milk to 2<> pounds Hour is too strong. Egg whites are too 

binding, yolks are preferable. 

YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS AND JELLY HALLS 

Use the sweet dough recipes given. Roll out the ready 
dough, cut out with doughnut cutter. Set in cloth lined or 
dusted boxes or on screens, let double in size, and fry as usual. 
For jelly balls scale pieces 31-. to 3% pounds for divider, or 
make pieces weighing l'o to 1% ounces, round up on bench, 
give a little proof, flatten and set in boxes or on screens, let 
double in size and fry slowly till done. When cold fill with 
jelly, using the cream puff pump or filler. When using no 
machine, put a little jelly in center of the flattened pieces on 
the bench, pinch dough up over the jelly and set to prove, then 
fry. These cakes are finished with a dot of icing when done. 

Vienna Fried Cake or Bismarcks 

Use a rich coffee-cake dough, roll out 14 -inch thick, cut out 
rounds with plain cutter, fill half the pieces with good fruit 

223 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



jam, cover with other piece, flatten and cut again with same 
cutter. Prove and fry like jelly balls. Roll in cinnamon 
sugar or ice with vanilla icing. 

French Fried Cakes 

Use special paste given in chapter on pastes, made like 
the cream puff paste, or use mixture for cream buns. Mix- 
ture must be slightly firmer than for cream puffs. Run out 
with bag and large star tube in rings 2 inches in diameter on 
stiff sheets of greased paper. Turn over on paper in the hot 
grease, which should not be quite as hot as for plain fried 
cakes. The cakes come off the paper easily. Then turn cakes 
over and turn several times, to fry them very crisp. Instead 
of paper a white tin pan may be used, made with a square 
handle on two sides, about 4 inches wide and high. The pan 
is turned bottom up to rest on the handle, the bottom is 
greased and dusted with flour, and the rings are dressed on 
the bottom. To fry, the pan is turned over into the hot fat, 
holding it by the handles, the cakes drop off when immersed. 
This method expedites the frying. French fried cakes are 
frosted with vanilla icing when cold. 

FRIED SPRING WAFFLES 

No. 1 — Cream together 1/2 pound sugar, y^ pound butter, 
6 eggs, flavor of mace or cinnamon, add about 1 pint or more 
milk and 2 pounds cake flour to make a smooth batter. 

No. 2 — Beat 7 egg whites stiff, mix 7 yolks, 2 ounces sugar, 
1 pint milk, 114 pounds flour to a smooth batter, draw in the 
beaten egg whites, and add flavor. 

The irons should be put in the hot fat before dipping them 
in the cake batter. Dip the hot iron in the batter close to the 
edge, but not above, and put in the hot grease again, immers- 
ing entirely. Fry to a nice color. The waffles will come off 
easily when done by knocking on the iron. 

ROMAN CASES, TIMBALES OR FRIED CASES 

No. 1 — 1 pound flour, 4 ounces cornstarch, 4 eggs, 1 pint 
milk, a pinch of salt. 

No. 2 — 1 pound soft flour, 4 eggs, 1 ounce sugar, 1 pint 

224 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



milk. salt. Mix into a smooth batter. Special irons are used 

for baking. These fried cases may be used in the place of 

patty shells, and without sugar for creamed vegetables, oys- 

creamed chicken, and other meats ordinarily Riled into 

patty shells. 

Storks 1 Nests 

These fried cakes are made in several ways, a special 
basket shape is made of wire, about 5 inches round and deep. 
Two of these baskets are fastened together on one side with 
hinge, so they turn and open; two long handles are put on. 
The cake mixture is cut into thin ribbons, which are laid in 
one basket nest fashion, the other basket is turned over the 
strip.-, and the whole immersed in the hot fat. When partly 
fried it is turned out and the frying finished. The old method 
is to have wide rin( I in the hot fat, and the dough is 

laid in the rings to fry. 

Mix 8 whole eggs, I yolks, 8 ounces sugar together, add 
1 :; ounce ammonia and sufficient Hour to make a firm dough 
which may he rolled out thin. Round up 1 I -j-ounce pieces, 
roll in thin ovals. Now take the pastry jigger and make 5 to 
6 cuts, not cutting to edge, SO the strips hold together; lift 
carefully and lay in nest shape in the rings set in the hot fat, 
and fry crisp. Dust with cinnamon sugar. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD 

No. 1 — 2 pounds rye flour, 4 pounds cornmeal, 3 pounds 
Graham flour. 3 pounds white flour, 1 gallon molasses, 1 
gallon milk and water, 5'/> ounces baking powder. (IV2 pounds 
small raisins may be added if desired.) 

No. 2 — 1 ( o pounds cornmeal, 18 ounces Graham flour, 18 
ounces soft winter wheat flour, 18 ounces rye flour or rye meal, 
2 V4 ounces soda, 1 ounce salt, % pint molasses, % pound 
sugar, about 2 quarts skimmed milk or, if water is used, add 
2 ounces melted lard. If cake crumbs are handy 1 to l J /2 
pounds may be used in this batch, and if crumbs are very rich 
in sugar a part of the sugar may be left out. 

Mix all the ingredients into a soft batter. Have the brown 
bread moulds greased thickly. Scale about 15 ounces in quart 

225 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



moulds. Bake in cool oven 250 degrees, setting moulds on 
thick, heavy pans, and if oven has much top heat place another 
pan on top of the covers. If oven has very strong bottom 
heat a little water may be put in bottom pan, or bottom may 
be covered with a layer of ashes to prevent coloring too much 
beneath. 

There is a special brown bread flour in the market which 
also contains the raising — soda or baking powder. All that is 
required is to mix the flour with even parts of water and 
molasses into a slack dough and bake. 



226 



XII. TEA BISCUIT, SCONES 
MUFFINS. ETC. 



i:: \ BISCUIT 
w itii Baking Powdei 

i —Rub •') ounces butter in l pounds cake flour, add 

1 ounces baking powder, _ ounces sugar, j i ounce salt, mix 
together with 1 quart milk. 

N". 2 5 pounds cake flour, LO ounces lard, l ounce salt, 

2 ounces sugar, 3 pints milk, l ounce soda. 2 ounces phosphate 
powder or cream of tartar. 

Sift sugar, salt and acid into the flour, then rub in lard, 
add milk with soda, and mix well. Roll out :! i inch thick and 
cut with 2 '--inch cutter. Set close together OB pans, wash 

with yolk of egg wash, let rest a few minutes before baking, 
bake in 100 degrees. 

feast-Raised Tea Cakes or Biscuits 

•"» pints half milk, half water, 5 ounce- yeast, ;! | pound 
SUgar, :: | pound butter and lard, 1 ounce salt, about 9 pounds 
bread flour. Make a warm straight dough with ingredients 
at about 95 degrees. Let rise up fully once, work down and 
let come up half, work over again. Scale in 6- to 8-ounce 
pieces, round up, flatten lightly and set on lightly greased tins 
in well greased rings. Prove in moist prover and bake in good 
heat. 1/2 to 2 pounds sultanas, or part currants may be used 
for fruit tea cakes. 

SCONES 

American Sultana Scones 

7V-2 pounds cake flour, 15 ounces sugar, 15 ounces lard, 5 
ounces phosphate powder, or cream of tartar, 2Vfc ounces 
soda, 14 ounce salt, 2 quarts milk, 1 pound seedless raisins. 
Method of mixing: Sift flour with acid and soda, rub in 

227 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the shortening, dissolve sugar in the milk. Mix dough well — 
it should not be soft. Scale 10-ounce pieces, round up tight, 
roll out about three-fifths inch thick. Cut in four, set on pans 
14 inch apart, wash with strong yolk wash on top, carefully, 
so wash does not run down on the cut side. Bake in 400 to 425 
degrees. 

English Sultana Scones 

8 pounds cake flour, 1 pound lard, 1 pound sultanas, 5 pints 
milk and water. Mix like American scone, making a softer 
dough, but working it well to toughen. Scale in 10- to 12-ounce 
pieces, round up well, but do not roll them quite as thin (about 
1/2 inch thick). Now cut in four with a sharp knife and set 
close enough so the cuts meet on the bottom lightly when 
baked. Egg wash carefully, so the cut side shows up white 
when baked. Bake in good heat. 

Scotch Scones or Irish Sodas 

14 pounds winter wheat flour, 31/2 ounces cream of tartar 
(or cream powder), 3V2 ounces baking soda, 4 ounces salt, 
IOI/2 pounds buttermilk. Mix lightly without toughening mix. 
Scale 2-pound pieces, pin out rounds about 1 inch thick, cut 
in four and bake at once on hot plate. The plate should be 
just hot enough to bake the scone without burning. When 
scone is baked on one side it is carefully turned and baked on 
the other side. Another variety is made by adding a pound 
of cornmeal, leaving out a pound of the flour. 

FANCY SCONES 

Self-Raising Flour for Fancy Scones 

24 pounds soft cake flour, 12 ounces cream of tartar, 6 
ounces soda. This flour is well mixed and kept on hand. 

Cream Scones 

Take 6 pounds of self-raising flour, 1 pound sugar, H/fc 
pounds butter and lard, about 2 quarts sweet or butter milk. 
Mix into a smooth dough. Scale in 5- to 6-ounce pieces and 
round up, pin out and cut in three or four pieces, egg wash 

228 



CAKES POR BAKERS 



twice, let Btand a little, and bake in hot oven. The Bcones may 
be turned when half done, on the pan. and finish baking. 

Tea Scone 

A small tea scone is made from the Bame mixture with or 
without adding eggs. Pieces of dough I ' - to - ounces are 
rounded up and pinned out to _'- to •"• inches in diameter, put 
<»n clean tins, washed with egg, pressed down In center and 
baked. When partly done they are turn sd over on the tins 
and the baking finished. 

Panes Sultana Scone 

Take to 6 pounds of self- raising Hour. •''■ , pound butter, :1 | 

pound sugar, ;: i pound sultanas, l to <> eggs, and mix with 
about •">'.. pints buttermilk into a smooth dough. Scale in 
L2-OUnce pieces, round up, pin <>ut and cut in 1 pieces. A 
similar large scone is made in one round only, cutting partly 
through and baking without turning. 

ENGLISH Mil TINS 

Take 6 pounds medium strong cake flour, sift with 1 ounce 
baking soda. Make this into a soft sponge with about 5 pints 

water and 3 ounces yeast at 95 degrees I'ahr. Cover and let 

rise and drop again. Stir the sponge down and let rise for 
20 to 30 minutes. While the sponge is rising again, get ready 
the hot plate and grease the rings. The rings used are from 
■".' 2 to 4 inches in diameter and about % inch deep. The grid- 
dle should be perfectly clean, and should not require any 
greasing. Dissolve lV-> ounces salt and l'/i ounces cream of 
tartar in ' o pint of milk and stir well into the sponge. It is 
now ready for baking. A small dipper which holds just 
enough batter to fill one ring about half full is best to use. 
Regulate the batter with milk to proper consistency, according 
to strength of flour. If batter is too thick the muffin loses 
gloss ; if batter is too thin it is likely to run through under 
the rings. Do not stir batter much after cream of tartar is 
added, or muffins are apt to be heavy. Place the rings on the 
griddle in rows and fill out ; when batter in the rings is cov- 
ered with holes lift off the ring and turn the muffin over on 

229 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the other side. Have some space left on the griddle, so the 
muffins can be set on one side, to keep track of the first ones 
baked. The muffins should not be overbaked — this would make 
them tough. 

A similar muffin or crumpet is made without soda or 
cream of tartar, making a firmer sponge by taking 314 pints 
water and milk, 2 ounces yeast, 5 pounds soft winter wheat 
flour. Give the same treatment as for muffins. Let rise and 
drop, stir down, add 1 ounce salt and let rise again. Prepare 
some boxes or pans by sifting on flour 2 inches deep. Make 
impressions a little distance apart in the flour with the bottom 
of a cup. Fill them with some of the dough to weigh about 
2y 2 ounces by dropping it out like drop cake — by squeezing 
the dough out over the thumb and forefinger and cutting it 
off with the forefinger of the other hand. Let stand covered 
until proved, then lift carefully and set on the hot griddle. 
Let color slightly, then turn over on the other side. Brush off 
the flour when baked. These muffins should be about 3 inches 
m diameter and nearly 2 inches thick when baked. 

BUNS— SELF-RAISING FLOUR FOR BUNS 

24 pounds soft winter wheat flour, 4 ounces soda, 8 ounces 
cream of tartar or phosphate powder. Mix and use as di- 
rected. 

Raspberry or Jelly Buns 

Cream 1 pound sugar, 12 ounces butter and lard, add 8 
eggs and about 1 pint milk, or more to make a smooth dough, 
with 3 pounds of the self-raising flour. Mold up round in 
2-ounce pieces, flatten out, and put in the center of each a 
little jam. Pull over the sides to enclose the jam, turn over 
and wash with egg, dust with sugar and cut crosswise, so 
that the jam shows when baked. Pan and bake in good 
heat. 

Lemon Buns 

These may be made in the same manner, using lemon 
jelly. A more simple method is to round up and dip the 
buns in granulated sugar, put on the pans, then make an im- 

230 



CAKES l-oi: BAKERS 



uon in the center of each bun and till the cavity with 
Bome jam or jelly before baking. 

( oeoanut, Sultana and Rice Buns 

For cocoanut buns mold round, wash and lay in coarse 
desiccated cocoanut, dust with sugar and bake. For sultana 

buns, add about 8 ounces sultanas to mixture, mold round, 
wash and Ratten, sprinkle a lew chopped ahnouds and sugar in 

center, and hake. 

For rice buns add 1 ounces ground rice to paste, make up 

in ovals or rounds, dust with SUgar and hake. 

A variety of lams may be mad" by adding finely chopped 

candied lemon, or orange or citron peel. Almonds or peanuts 

make another variety. Streusel, chopped almonds or roasted 
chopped peanuts may be used on top. Less eggs may he used 
for low priced goods. 

Bridge Buns, Bath Huns. Brooklyn Bridge Huns 

1 pound sugar. ' - pound butter, 1 to 1 eggs, 1 ounce soda, 
.". pounds cake Hour, l' ounc is cream of tartar. 1 quart milk, or 
sufficient to make a soft mixture. Add from 1 to 1 ' -_• pounds 
mixed fruit, flavor with lemon or mace. Drop out like drop 
cakes on lightly greased pans, cim wash. Leave plain or 
sprinkle with crushed loaf sugar and chopped almonds. Bake 
in good heat. 



231 



XIII. ICINGS AND FILLINGS 



In cake bakeries it is the custom to prepare a number of 
stock icings, sufficient for one or more days, and from these 
icings, a number of other combination icings and fillings may 
be made by adding various flavors and colors, crushed or finely 
cut fruit, nut meats and fruit juices. Some of these icings 
keep well for several days ; others are made up fresh daily to 
be in the best condition. All icings may be mixed by hand in 
small quantities, but the cake machine is almost indispensable 
for making it up in large quantities, and marshmallow filling 
cannot be beaten perfectly by hand. The machines produce 
a better quality, besides saving labor and time. 

Economies are necessary, even in the making of icings and 
fillings, and goods of wholesome quality can be made up by 
using albumen, gelatin or gum solutions in the place of fresh 
egg whites. There are a number of icing powders in the mar- 
ket which may be used with success. 

To replace egg whites in icing, egg albumen is used in the 
proportion of 4 ounces to 1 quart of water, in combination with 
gum arabic or gum tragacanth ; 3 ounces albumen and 1 ounce 
gum is used for 1 quart of water. The gum produces a better 
gloss. Some bakers use a gum solution of l 1 /^ ounces gum to 
1 quart water; some others a solution of 5 ounces albumen 
and 3 ounces gelatin dissolved in 3 pints of water, to replace 
fresh egg whites. This is also used in the place of eggs, 
with some coloring added in small cake mixtures that need a 
binder, such as cookies and low-priced cakes. 

Gelatin frosting is made by dissolving 2 ounces of gelatin 
in 1 quart of water; let it soak well, then boil and strain. A 
little cream of tartar or a pinch of alum added will improve 
this solution, which will form a jelly when cold. Egg icings 
and gum or gelatin icings are improved by adding some cream 
of tartar or lemon juice for whitening and flavoring, but all 
these icings dry out more or less, depending on the humidity 
of the atmosphere. To keep icings soft, glycerin, butter, or 

232 



CAKES POR BAKERS 

neutral fats are added in small quantities. Glycerin and short- 
ening are used in proportion of l ounce glycerin, or I ounces 
of shortening, t<> LO pounds of sugar used in the icing. 

STOCK ICINGS 

Fondant icing is the best icing. It has a tine taste, better 
eating qualities, keeps a good gloss, and while it is net as 
quickly and easily made as other plain icings it is preferred 
for good work. As it may be made from granulated sugar, 
it is really less expensive than other icings made from XX XX 
powdered Bugar. 

■k icings may be made up and kept on hand. It 
is well to keep the vessels clean, Bcraping down the sides after 
taking out a part of the icing. The vessel should he kept 
covered with a damp cloth, or a little water sprinkled on top. 
to prevent the forming of a hard crust. 

Fondant Making 

The proper method is to have a slab such as is used for 
candy making, and a Bel of square I inch bars, two of 3 feet 
long and two of - feet long. This forms a square On the slab, 
which is sprinkled with a little water before the boiled sugar 
is poured on, and holds ahout is pounds of fondant. The 
boiled sugar must be poured thin on the slab, so that it cools 
quickly. Candy makers use large circular slabs which are 
cooled with water underneath. This facilitates the work, 
which is done by a machine. Take 12 pounds granulated 
sugar, 2 pounds glucose, or • .\ ounce cream of tartar if no 
glucose is used. Dissolve on the fire by stirring. The sugar 
should be well dissolved before the boiling starts in. While 
the sugar is boiling, wash the sides of kettle down with a wet 
brush to prevent granulation. Take off any scum which arises. 
If no glucose is used, add the cream of tartar when the sugar 
starts boiling. The cover may be kept on the kettle and the 
steam will prevent the sugar from granulating on the sides 
of kettle. Let boil to 240 to 242 degrees, and pour the sugar 
on the wet slab, between the bars. A little water should be 
sprinkled on top to prevent the forming of a crust. Let it 

2:^3 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cool, turn in the sides and work the sugar back and forth with 
the paddle until it forms a white cream. Scrape in the sides, 
let the sugar rest on the slab for half an hour to soften, cover 
with a damp cloth, then knead with the hands into a smooth 
cream and put away in cans, covered with a damp cloth. Fon- 
dant will keep in good condition for weeks. To use take as 
much as required from stock into a small pan, set in hot water 
and stir until the fondant is melted. Do not melt fondant 
without stirring, and do not heat above 98 to 100 degrees, or 
the icing will set too hard and lose its gloss. Colors and 
flavors may be added while melting the fondant, and it may 
be diluted with a little water, or better, a syrup. If fondant 
icing appears too transparent for some purposes a little white 
egg icing may be added. Melted chocolate in sufficient quan- 
tities can be added for chocolate fondant icing. 

In the bakery where a machine is handy, a nice fondant 
frosting may be made as follows, but care must be taken not 
to make it in too large quantities, as the boiled sugar is apt 
to granulate from the center, being kept to cool in a deep 
kettle: Boil 8 pounds sugar, 1/2 pound glucose, or 14 ounce 
cream of tartar, with 3 pints water to 235 degrees, pour the 
boiled sugar in large mixing kettle used for machine. Sprinkle 
the inside of kettle with a little water, and after pouring in 
the boiled sugar add some water on top to prevent forming of 
a crust. Set kettle with sugar in large pan or tub of cold 
water, and when cold put kettle in machine and let beat up, 
using the one-arm beater, on slow speed. If granulation does 
not set in readily rub some of the sugar on the sides of the 
kettle with spoon or paddle until it whitens ; stir this part into 
the other sugar and let machine run until a white cream is 
formed. Then transfer in other cans and put away for use. 

Imitation Fondant 

This is quickly made by letting 1 pint water, 11/2 pounds 
sugar come to a boil, adding a little lemon juice or cream of 
tartar. Stir this syrup into sifted icing sugar, of the right 
consistency for dipping or frosting, and use warm. This 
method may be used in an emergency, but is not quite as good 
as the real fondant. 

234 



C AKES FOR BAKERS 
White stock [ring 

Put l pint egg whites, or dissolved albumen, with 6 pounds 
icing Bugar into machine; let run on second speed to make a 
stiir. white frosting. (This icing at this stage may be used 
for decorating, adding one ounce cream of tartar <>r the juice 
of one t<> two lemons, making it so that it may be used for 
piping.) 

Let machine run on slow speed, and add one quart of water 
heated to L50 degrees (hot, but not boiling); add sufficient 
icing sugar to make it of the proper stiffness so it may be used 
foe frosting layer cakes without running oil'. For other pur- 
poses more water and SUgar may be added. Let machine rim 

for 25 to 30 minutes, until icing is nice and light. Flavor and 
color as desired. By adding L0 pounds of fondant to this icing 
it may be greatly improved. 

Albumen and Gum Icing for General Use 

Dissolve :'» ounces albumen in l quari of water; strain and 
add 1 ounce of powdered gum aral'ic; put in machine with 8 

pounds of granulated sugar and ' .. ounce cream of tartar. Let 
it dissolve, then beat up on medium speed for 10 minutes, then 
let machine run on slow speed. Dissolve 2 quarts of corn 
syrup in 1 quart of hot water: add to first mixture; let mix 
and dissolve, then add from S to L2 pounds of icing sugar and 
let this beat up light. Flavor and color as desired. 

Chocolate Stock Icing 

1 pound block chocolate (chocolate liquor), 5 pounds icing 
sugar, 3 ounces butter, 1 pint hot water. Cut chocolate in 
small chips; set to melt with the butter on the oven door or 
on top of oven, to melt slowly without burning; put sugar and 
hot water in machine, let run on slow speed, add the melted 
chocolate and let mix well, to incorporate the chocolate with- 
out overmixing. This icing keeps well for several days. 
Chocolate icing loses its gloss from overheating, it should feel 
just blood warm, or about 98 degrees to be right. If frosting 
thickens too much, thin wdth a little water; or better with a 
syrup made by dissolving 314 pounds of granulated sugar in 

235 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



1 quart of hot water. This syrup may also be used for a wash 
for some kinds of rolls and buns. 

Caramel Icing 

Melt 5 pounds of light brown or granulated sugar on a 
slow fire, stirring constantly until it assumes a dark brown 
color. Care should be used so the sugar does not bum too 
much and acquire a bitter taste. When the right color is 
obtained, add 1 quart of water, stir and let boil to dissolve 
the sugar into a syrup, then add 1/2 pound of butter; let melt 
and come to a boil. Put this syrup in machine, adding enough 
icing sugar (while the machine is running on slow speed) to 
make it of the proper stiffness. This icing must be heated on 
the fire and used while warm and not made too soft. A little 
practice will soon teach the right stiffness. If color is too 
dark it may be mixed with white icing or fondant. Combina- 
tions of chocolate and caramel icing with vanilla flavor are 
popular; also the icing may be mixed with ground nut meats 
and used for fillings for special cakes. 

Maple Icing 

The best maple icing is made from pure maple sugar, or 
from half maple sugar, half brown sugar, or granulated sugar. 
Dissolve 12 pounds of broken maple sugar in 3 quarts of water 
on the fire, add 4 ounces of butter; mix this syrup, while warm, 
in machine with sufficient icing sugar. If the icing is too 
light, color with caramel. Maple flavors may be bought from 
supply firms. 

Water Icing 

Water icing is simply made by mixing icing sugar with 
warm water to the proper consistency, adding flavor as de- 
sired. Water icing is rather heavy, therefore expensive, and 
does not keep its appearance well. For this reason an addition 
of egg whites or marshmallow is an improvement. By adding 
any desired flavor and color, water icing may be used in many 
ways. A water icing may be made up by using a small addi- 
tion of boiled starch and corn syrup or glucose, working it up 
in machine. Dissolve one pound glucose or syrup in 3 pints 

236 



CAKES ioi: BAKERS 

of h<>t water, and add ."> pounds granulated sugar; let this 
dissolve well and lei com*- near the boil, put it in the machine, 
add l pint of water which has been made into a starch with 
l ! t ounces of cornstarch, mix well together and then add suffi- 
cient icing sugar, ' - ounce cream of tartar and let beat up 
well. Flavin- as desired. This icing is used for yeast-raised 
in some bakeries. 

Royal (dug 

This icing is used in diluted condition for covering large 
cakes which are to be decorated. It forms a nice gloss cover 
if dried quickly in a warm place. For decorating the icing is 
made as follows: For each pound of sifted icing sugar, tak • 
about three egg whites and a small pinch of cream of tartar. 

Mix well in a bowl with spatula until the icing stands well 
and can be drawn t«> a point and keeps its shape. This icing 
should not be ton still or !.»• stiffen 'd by adding sugar, because 
it is difficult to us.' for decorating with fine tubes. It needs 
proper beating to make it stand up well; the icing dries 
quickly and Bhould be kept covered with a damp cloth. Do 
n«>t scrape down sides and try to work hardened icing in 
the other icing; it forms lumps and chokes up the tubes. Do 
not let it stand in a warm place Do not use too much acid; 
it softens the icing, makes it weak. This icing may be colored 
as desired. For chocolate decorating, add melted chocolate or 
cocoa in sufficient quantities. If the icing does not stand up 
well after it has stood some time, it must be rebeaten, adding 
a little egg white to make it work and stand up well; it is best 
used as soon as it is made. 

Chocolate Icing for Decorating 

Melt 2 ounces chocolate and gradually stir in about 5 
ounces icing sugar, then gradually add a little syrup or water, 
drop by drop, to make it of the proper consistency, and use 
warm. This icing is very handy for decorating Easter goods 
and may be rewarmed for use. 

Boiled Icing 

2 pounds granulated sugar, */> pint water, a pinch of cream 
of tartar boiled to 240 degrees, 1/2 pint of egg whites beaten 

237 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



stiff, adding 1 ounce icing sugar. Pour the boiling sugar in 
a thin stream into the beaten whites, beating constantly, add- 
ing flavor as desired. This icing is used in various ways, mixed 
with crushed nut meats or candied fruits. It is used for icing 
as well as for filling for cakes made up family style. Prom 
Vi to 1/2 ounce of dissolved gelatin may be beaten in while 
warm, and it can be used like a marshmallow icing or filling. 

Boiled Chocolate Icing 

Put V2 pound of chocolate with a scant pint of water on 
the fire and stir until the chocolate is well dissolved, then add 
2V2 pounds of granulated sugar; mix well and let it boil to 
a strong thread. Take a part and test between the fingers. 
Take off the fire and stir with paddle, rubbing it on the sides 
of vessel until it thickens and a skin forms on top. If mixture 
is too stiff add a little sugar or water. Use while hot and 
quickly. For dipping or covering, set goods on wire tray, 
and dry on the oven door to produce a good gloss. 

Special Icings 

Quite a number of special icings may be made by using 
the different fruit juices made into a clear syrup and the hot 
syrups mixed with icing sugar to the proper consistency. 
Finely cut French fruits may be added, also figs, dates, or 
chopped nut meats. Lemon and orange icing may be made by 
mixing the finely grated yellow rind and juice with a part of 
water with icing sugar, or in fondant. Black strong coffee 
may be used for coffee icing. 

Burnt Sugar Coloring (Caramel) 

This is made by placing a pound or more of brown or 
granulated sugar in a shallow pan on the fire, let melt and stir 
constantly so it does not burn. When the sugar begins to 
boil it will gradually become a very dark brown — almost black, 
and will rise in the pan. Now add carefully about V2 P m t of 
water or more to the sugar, let boil and dissolve into a dark 
thick syrup, strain and bottle for use. This coloring is used 
to give the proper shade to maple, coffee and other frosting, 
also for an imitation caramel icing. 

238 



LKES lui; BAKERS 

< 01 ORS I <>K ICINGS 

The most popular colors for icings are white, pink, choco- 
late and a variety of shades of brown. For orange or lemon 
a delicate orange or yellow color is best to use, as strong colors 
ctionable. Stronger colors are only permissable 
in Bpecia] decorations of cake, where they tit in or are specially 
ordered by patrons. Formerly many colors were made by the 
confectioner; but today it is more practical to buy the factory- 
made colors, which may be bought in all desired shades. 

RE \D\ l<> I SE FILLINGS 

I wish here to speak a good word for the ready-made fill- 
ings which may be boughl from bakers' supply houses. These 
fillings are made by specialists with the best facilities and 
up-to-date equipment, by men who have made a study of pre- 
paring this line of goods. Some of them may be boughl cheaper 
and better than a baker can make them, considering the time 
and labor it takes to make and keep the g Is in the best con- 
dition. The goods are made up in different grades to suit all 
classes of trade, and the baker who wants the very besl can 
• •Main the higher grade goods at a fair price. There air some 
of the commercial jams and jellies in the market which arc 

to be Used COld for fillings. These fillings soften and cannot 

stand the baking heat. Bui there arc other jams which arc 

prepared to withstand the baking heat without running out. 

The goods should be ordered according to how they arc to be 
used, suited for baking, or for a cold filler; and as most of the 
Bupply funis stand hack of their goods, the baker will get the 
right kind. 

Marsh mallow Filling 

This filling is one of the most profitable for the baker to 
use, and a filling very popular with the public. If properly 
made it gives bulk, makes a nice and fluffy filling which stands 
up well. One pound of good filling is sufficient to fill from five 
to six two-layer cakes with a half-inch thick layer of marsh- 
mallow, making them look like a three-layer cake. 

One point that must be observed in the use of marshmallow 
is to use it when fresh made. It stands well for almost a day, 

239 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and when used for filling layers and blocks it is best applied 
as soon as it is made. After it stands it sets, and when cold 
stiffens. If worked over or stirred after it is set the air cells 
that produced the lightness are broken ; it loses bulk and be- 
comes heavy. If used freshly made and left to set between the 
layer or block cubes, it stands up well and cuts nicely. After 
taking it from the machine the marshmallow stands up nice 
and dry, so that it may be used for decorating, covering and 
fillings for tarts and pies, cream rolls, and many other goods. 
Various flavors may be made up from one batch by dividing 
the batch, adding melted chocolate and beating it in the warm 
filling, adding fruit juice flavor and color to another part, or 
adding nut meat and fine-cut preserved fruits. Brown sugar 
or part maple sugar, part brown sugar, may be used for maple 
marshmallow. 

A butter cream filling may be made by adding creamed up 
or softened butter in proportions from V2 to 1 pound to 5 
pounds of filling and beating it in a cold place until it stiffens, 
adding flavor as desired. 

Left-over marshmallow filling may be added to a new batch 
when the new batch is nearly finished and beaten light. If a 
large amount of left-over filling is rebeaten with a new batch, 
it is well to cook the sugar one or two degrees higher to obtain 
the proper consistency. 

Marshmallow Filling with Egg Whites or Albumen 

Twenty pounds granulated sugar; 4 quarts water; 1 ounce 
cream of tartar ; 2 quarts egg whites, 2 ounces Jap gelatin ; 
or, in place of egg whites, 12 ounces albumen soaked in 1*4 
quarts of water over night. Boil sugar, 2 quarts water, 1 
ounce cream of tartar to 240 degrees. Dissolve the Jap gela- 
tin in two quarts of water on the fire. In the meantime beat 
up the egg whites (or dissolved albumen) in the machine. 
When the whites are beaten light, let machine run on medium 
speed and slowly (in a thin stream) pour in the boiling sugar. 
The mixture will go down some at this point, but it will rise 
again. After adding the sugar, add the well-dissolved gela- 
tin, pouring it in slowly, then let the machine run on faster 
speed and beat until it stands up well on the beater. The 

240 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 

given amount fills one of the large L9 to 20-gallon kettles, the 
largest Bize used with cake machines. Jap gelatin is pre- 
ferred in this formula. If other gelatin is used, take 1 
ounces in the given mixture. 

For maple marshmallow use brown sugar or part maple 
Bugar as suggested, or use maple extract and caramel coloring. 

Eggless Marshmalkwi 

No. l Soak and dissolve 5 ounces gelatin and 3 ounces 
powdered gum arabic in 3 quarts of warm water; strain in 
kettle; add 10 pounds of sugar, and stir on the fire without 
boiling (just warming); then beat up in cake machine until 
light Flavor to suit. Keep in cool place well covered. Re- 
warm for use. 

No. - Dissolve I ounces of gelatin in l quarl of water at 
about 150 degrees Fahr. stir until dissolved. It should not 
cool down below l i<» degrees. When perfectly dissolved add 
•"> pounds "f powdered sugar or icing sugar and :i | pound 
wanned glucose or com syrup. Beat this up in machine 
on fast Bpeed. It will take aboul _<> minutes, then add ;t | 
ounce cream of tartar to whiten and continue beating until 
it stands up nice and light. At this point melted chocolate or 
cocoa may be added sufficient t<> obtain a idee chocolate flavor. 

A VARIETY OF CAKE TOP DECORATIONS 

Four (Groups — .Made by Dennis M. Hopkins 

We are showing these cake top decorations here as they 
present some of the great variety of ways in which the vari- 
ous icings may be applied. 

Mr. Hopkins decorated several of these cake tops, with the 
simple and elaborate effects shown by the illustrations, and 
all the work was done with paper tubes only, with the excep- 
tion of the buds and roses, for which he used a plain flat tube. 
The icing for these cake tops, base as well as piping, was 
made with meringue powder. The foundation was laid on 
very thin, about one sixteenth of an inch thick, and the piping 
was done in colors as described. The tops were not made and 
decorated on the cakes, but made on layer cake (9 and 10- 
inch) pans, the pans first made warm and then waxed with 

241 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



paraffin, so that when the icing was thoroughly dry the slight 
warming of the pans would permit the plaques to be easily 
removed. Then, when a cake was iced with soft meringue 
icing or butter cream, a top could be placed on and the cake 
quickly finished for a holiday order. 

Group I 

No. 1 (upper and left-hand design) was plain, iced in 




white; the wreath was first piped in pale green, inscription 
in chocolate, rosebuds in pale pink and white, by putting a 



242 



CAKES POR BAKERS 



little pink icing with the white in the same bag". The border 
is done in white overlaid with lines of pink and fine edging 
of pink. 

N". 2 — The fine lines were piped first with chocolate icing 

in which a little green icing had been mixed. Then the stem 
of the spray WBS piped in pale green, buds and roses in pale 
pink. The border was piped as shown in pale pink, and in- 
scription With the same color icing as the lines piped fust. 

which gave a very pretty effect. 

No. J— White base. The fun- stems were piped first in 

:. then leaves and buds and then the roses in pale pink. 

in which a little white icing was mixed to give a two-color 

effect. Inscription in chocolate was done next, and lastly the 

scroll border in pink and chocolate. 

\o. l — Pale yellow base, inscription in chocolate, scroll in 

pale pink, spray in white, and border of pink buds and pale 

ere. 'a leaves. 

No. 5 and No. t; ('roam color base. The square piped 
first — one in pale pink and the other in chocolate and pink. 

(•roup II 

No. 1 — Pale pink base. The lines piped fust in pale green, 
the spray with the chocolate color mixed with a little green, 
the buds in cream color with green leaves. The border with 
chocolate overpiped with white, inscription a little darker 
pink. 

No. 2 — Pink base. Chocolate medallion center piped in 
white, the border pale yellow roses with green leaves. 

No. 3 — Pink base. The wreath piped in pale green, the 
buds in pale yellow with green stem and leaves, inscription 
in chocolate, and scroll border in a little brighter yellow than 
the buds. 

No. 4 — Cream base. Chocolate medallion piped in white 
with yellow buds in center, the scroll in pink and white over- 
piped with plain paper tube to give a raised effect. Border 
has a plain rim ; overpiped with pale pink as shown. 

No. 5 — White base. Pale green stem and leaves, and 
violets in rather pale color. The border, dark colored stem 

243 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with green leaves, and pale pink buds. Inscription in choco- 
late — a very pretty offset. 

No. 6 — Pale yellow base. White spray and pink buds, the 
border piped in colors to represent apples and grapes. 




No. 7 — Pale yellow base. Buds in pink and white, with 
chocolate stems. Inscription in chocolate. 

Chocolate Icing for Medallions 
1 pound unsweetened chocolate, 1 pound cocoa butter, 

244 



I IKES • OF BAKERS 

warmed together until dissolved, then mixed with sufficient 
icing sugar to make a dough, about l ' g pounds BUgar, Keep 
dough warm, bul not hot, press into molds that have been 
made Blightly warm, ami put in ice box or a very cold place 




to cool quickly. When cool, turn out from mold and wrap in 
soft paper until ready to glaze. There are several ways of 
doing this, but the best is to take 3 ounces gum bengoin in 1 
pint pure alcohol. Let stand for at least thirty-six hours, 

245 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



giving it a shake once in a while, then strain and keep tightly 
corked. Brush over medallions with this solution with a soft 
camel's hair brush, and they will have a lasting gloss. Wrap 
in soft paper and put away for future use, and pipe at leisure. 

Group III 

No. 1 — White Base. The lines are first piped in pale pink, 
then the stems in pale green, the buds and roses in pink and 
white. Inscription "Greetings" is in pink, and border in white. 
The borders were finished in the manner shown, so that if 
plaque was a trifle small for cakes an outside border could 
be put on after the top was placed. 

No. 2 — White base. Happy New Year inscription in cho- 
colate. Pale green spray and pink buds. 

No. 3 — Pink base. Make the center square first and thread 
work, overpiped four times in white ; design should be further 
worked out in white and chocolate. 

No. 4 — Pink base. Stem and leaves in green with pale 
yellow roses. Inscription "Good luck" in white, and border 
as shown. 

No. 5 — Pink base. Thread work overpiped in white, with 
chocolate scroll and white border. 

No. 6 — Pale yellow base. The center star piped first in 
pale pink. Pink rose with green leaves. Outside scroll in 
chocolate, also border. 

No. 7 — White base. Center piped in chocolate and pink, 
border in pink overpiped with chocolate. 

Group IV 

No. 1 — White base, center and scroll in pink and chocolate. 
Pink rose and green leaves, border in pink with lines of 
chocolate. 

No. 2 — Pink base. Chocolate medallion piped in white. 
Surrounding circle of pink and white buds and green leaves. 
Border white, overpiped with chocolate. 

No. 3 — White base. Center outlines and piping in pink, 
using deeper pink for the scroll. Outer lines in chocolate. 
Border in two shades of pink. 

No. 4 — White base. Green wreath around inscription, 
piped in pink. The scroll border is also in pink. 

246 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



• Whit Stem and leaves are piped first, in 

•i. then the pink and cream roses are piped on, also buds. 
Inscription in chocolate. Border of pale green stems, with 
pink buds. 




No. 6 — Pink base. Outline the center as shown. Fill in 
with chocolate icing, and put on inscription in pink. Sprays 
of green holly leaves and red berries. Border all white. 

No. 7 — Pink base. Pipe two straight lines across center 

247 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and overpipe with white. Inscription in pink. Buds pink and 
white with stems and leaves green. Border scroll in white. 

SPECIAL BUTTER CREAM FILLINGS— MOCHA CREAMS 

Vienna Butter Cream 

Ten eggs, l 1 /? pounds sugar, 1 pound unsalted butter. Mix 
and beat eggs on a slow fire until it thickens. Do not let it 
boil. Take off fire and stir cold on ice, or setting kettle in 
cold water. Stir butter to a light cream, then add gradually 
in spoonfuls the egg cream — beating constantly. Flavor 
vanilla or chocolate, coffee, etc. Use this for filling and deco- 
rating. 

Marshmallow Butter Cream 

Cream together 1V2 pounds icing sugar, 1 to 1V2 pounds 
butter and part pastry butterine, gradually add 2 pounds 
more sugar, then add from 2 to 21/2 pounds marshmallow and 
beat well together. In the place of marshmallow the same 
amount of boiled meringue cooled, may be used. (See boiled 
meringue.) Flavor and color as desired. 

New York Mocha Butter Cream 

One-fourth pint egg whites, 314 pounds icing sugar, 1 
pound of unsalted butter, 3 ounces cornstach. Cream butter 
light with about 1 pound of sugar, adding the starch, then 
gradually work in the egg whites and remainder of sugar until 
nice and light. 

Chocolate Mocha 

One-half pound butter, 1V2 pounds compound lard, lYi 
pounds icing sugar, 5 to 6 yolks, sufficient melted butter; 
chocolate to obtain a good flavor. Chocolate makes a firmer 
cream, and a little milk is required to make it right for deco- 
rating and filling. 

Coffee Mocha 

Add coffee extract and caramel coloring to produce the 
right flavor and shade to butter cream. 

248 



CAKES l OR BAKERS 
Almond Butter Cream — Almond Mocha 

Add almond extract to plain mocha cream, or cream ( -j 
pound almond paste with ' •_• pound of butter, 5 to t> yolks, add 
2 pounds icing sugar and flavor of lemon or vanilla. Add milk 
sufficient to make it of proper consistency for Riling or dtro- 
rating. 

Pastrj Cream for Pilling Layer Cakes and Tarts 

One quart milk, 8 ounces sugar, l ounce butter, 3 ounces 
cornstarch, •"> to 1<» yolks or whole eggs; flavor as desired. 
Sel milk and part of sugar to boil, leaving some cold milk to 
dilute the cornstarch; mix eggs and balance of sugar with 
diluted starch: beat well together. When milk is near boiling, 
mix a little «»r the hot milk in starch and egg mixture, add 
this to the boiling milk, stirring constantly until it thickens. 
Take off, turn cream in shallow dishpan, add the butter, stir 
and let cool and add flavor. It* the cooked cream stands with- 
out Stirring a dry skin forms and the cream sets coarse. If 

stirred several times during cooling this may be prevented. 

By using more or less starch a firmer or softer filling is 

obtained. 

From the above given pastry cream the following fillings 

can lie made, (.-quart hatches : 

For Lemon or Orange Cream Filling— Add the grated rind 
and juice of one lemon or orange after taking it off the fire, 
and mix thoroughly. 

For Cocoanut Cream Filling — Add 4 ounces freshly grated 
or desiccated cocoanut to any lemon or orange or vanilla 
flavored cream. 

For Almond Cream Filling — Add 3 to 4 ounces browned 
and crushed almonds to vanilla flavored cream. 

For Chocolate Cream Filling — Add 2 ounces grated or 
melted chocolate to warm Cream. Crushed nuts or almonds 
may be added to chocolate cream. 

For Coffee or Mocha Filling — Take 1 pint strong black 
coffee and 1 pint milk when cooking the cream ; if a darker 
color is desired, add caramel to give the right shade. 

For Special Light Cream Filling — From 5 to 6 egg whites 
beaten light may be added to the cream before taking it off 

249 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the fire, stirring it in quickly without overmixing to preserve 
its lightness, right after the starch and yolk mixture. This 
makes a fine filling for tarts and small goods. 

CUSTARD OR PASTRY CREAM FILLING 

One gallon fresh milk, 1 pound sugar, 8 to 9 ounces corn- 
starch; 10 to 12 whole eggs, vanilla flavor, a pinch of salt. 
This cream is used for an all-round filling for cream puffs, 
eclairs, and other purposes where a rich cream answers. 
Set 314 quarts of milk on the fire with half the sugar; mix 
starch, remaining sugar, with 1/2 quart of cold milk, then add 
eggs and mix well. When milk is coming to a boil add the 
starch and egg mixture, stir until it thickens, take off the 
fire, put in shallow dishpan to cool, add salt and when cooled 
add flavor. Stirring the cream now and then while it is cook- 
ing prevents the forming of a skin and makes a smoother 
cream. 

English Lemon Butter 

Fifteen lemons, 20 eggs, 2y 2 pounds sugar, 14 pound but- 
ter. Grate the yellow rind carefully on the sugar, so as not 
to grate off the white, which is extremely bitter; add the 
strained juice; put in double boiler, add the melted butter 
and stir and let boil until it is of the consistency of preserves. 
Let stand and set for some days before using. This preserve 
is made up in large quantities by British confectioners at a 
time when lemons and eggs are low-priced ; it keeps well if put 
in jars. A similar jelly or butter may be made into orange 
butter filling. Take the grated rind and juice of 10 oranges, 
the juice of 5 lemons and proceed as for lemon butter. 

Plain Lemon or Orange Filling 

One quart of water, 1 pound sugar, the grated rind and 
juice of from 3 to 5 lemons (for orange filling the juice and 
grated rind of 3 oranges, juice of 2 lemons), from 5 to 10 
yolks, 3V2 to 4 ounces cornstarch. Dissolve this starch in 
14 pint of cold water and mix with the yolks. Grate the rind 
on the sugar. Put sugar, water and juice of fruit to boil. 
When it boils add the well-mixed starch and egg yolks and 

250 



CAKES MM: BAKERS 



stir until it thickens. Take off and stir cool, adding 2 ounces 
of butter. This filling, by using 3 to -'•_• ounces of starch, 
will make a nice lemon or orange pie or tart tilling:. Three 
and one-half to I ounces starch will make a slightly Btiffer 
filling which may be used for layer cake, etc. It' used as a 
Riling for pies, the previously baked bottoms should be filled 
with the hot mixture; it will Bet and cut like custard when 
cold. Varieties may be mad.' from this filling by adding cocoa- 
nut to lemon or orange filling. 

Pineapple Pilling 

Take l pint of grated pineapple, l pint of water, adding the 
grated rind and juice of l orange or lemon if desired and finish 
with <»ther ingredients as given. 

Florodora Filling 

Taken even parts of pineapple, orange and cocoanul filling. 

Whipped (ream Pilling 

A good cream t'<»r whipping should contain from •">■"> to 40 
percent butter fat. and should be at least -1 hours old. Cream 
not pasteurized gives more volume, heats up better than 

pasteurized cream. Beat the cream in a cold place or set 
kettle in a pan of iced water when beating. Beal slowly al 
the start, and gradually increase the speed. After beating 
the cream so it can be drawn to a point, add for each quart of 
cream 4 ounces of well-sifted powdered sugar and vanilla 
flavor; mix carefully without overmixing and keep in a cool 
place. Whipped cream, if standing for some time, softens, 
milk and sugar gather on the bottom. The sediment may be 
drawn off and the cream rewhipped, adding a few spoonfuls 
of fresh cream or rich plain cream. Do not stir whipped 
cream after the sugar is added, as it causes loss of volume. 

A spoon is best used for filling cream puffs. Cut the puffs 
and fill. For filling charlotte russe or cream rolls, use the 
cream when freshly mixed for same with bag and tube. If 
using the cake machine for beating whipped cream, watch 
closely the point when it thickens, as a slight overbeating 
turns the cream into butter, making it coarse. 

251 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



There are some preparations, solutions of gum, which may 
be used with a poorer grade of cream, but it pays to use the 
best grade. If a whipped cream is used at once for filling, a 
small addition of gum powder or powdered gelatin, or ice 
cream powder may be mixed in with the sugar, or beaten in 
before adding the sugar. This prevents the sediment of sugar 
and milk going to the bottom and holds up the cream to a 
better degree. 

In an emergency, if short on whipped cream, a meringue 
may be added to whipped cream. Proceed as follows: Soak 
V2 ounce gelatin in cold water, press out the water and dissolve 
the gelatin by heating and have ready for use. Beat up 1 
quart of whipped cream as usual, also 1 pint of egg whites 
separately. Gradually beat 8 ounces of sifted powdered sugar 
into the egg whites, and when it stands up well, pour in the 
gelatin in a thin stream, beating constantly; add flavor, and 
mix the meringue carefully into the whipped cream, lightly 
but fully, so as not to destroy the lightness of the cream. 
This mixture sets slightly after standing and is best used 
immediately. Do not stir mixture after adding gelatin and 
meringue. 

Adding Marshmallow to Whipped Cream 

Beat up 2 quarts of whipping cream and when cream 
begins to thicken add 1 quart or 2 pounds of cold marsh- 
mallow in two or three portions, beat until it stands up well. 
No sugar is added when using marshmallow — the marsh- 
mallow contains sufficient sugar to sweeten. This works 
nicely for filling cream puffs, Charlotte russe and other 
goods and makes the cream less expensive. 

HOUSEHOLD FILLINGS 

Special fillings which give cakes a home-like flavor. 

Caramel Filling 

Mix 1 pound of brown sugar with 1 gill of cream; add 1 
ounce bitter chocolate, 1 ounce butter and 2 ounces of molasses. 
Mix and boil to "soft ball"; pour this boiling mixture on 3 
beaten egg whites, beat cool ; add 4 ounces chopped nuts and 

252 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



piced cakes, which may be frosted with 
caramel or with chocolate. 

Camelina I illin^ 

Mix well together l yolks, ' ■_. pound sugar, 2 ounces butter, 

: rind and juice of 2 oranges. Boil in double boiler 

until it thickens. Take off and add - beaten egg whites and 

i oui aely chopped candied orange and lemon peel. 

■his Riling between layers of white or yellow cake. Frost 

with icing made of the grated rind and juice of oranges 

mixed with Icing sugar. 

Umond Chantilrj Pilling 

Mix even parts of whipped cream and meringues with 

blanched, browned and crushed almonds, between white layer 

Frost with vanilla fondant mixed with chopped 

■ied almonds. 

Angel Pistachio Filling 

Add to I pound of fivsh-madr marshmallow 1 ounces of 

finely cut pistachio nuts, or half almonds, half pistachio nuts, 
flavor with orange flower extract. Use between layers of 
angel cake or white cake, frost cake a delicate light green, 

sprinkle with a few line-cut pistachios. 

Lad} Baltimore Filling 

Make a boiled icing (see boiled icing), mix with finely cut 
pecans and figs, flavor with rose water, use with almond 
flavored or nut flavored white cakes as a filling and icing. 

Charleston Filling 

Make a boiled icing with l'-j pounds brown sugar, '/i pint 
water mixed into 4 beaten egg whites ; flavor with lemon rind 
and juice. Use with maple-frosted white or yellow cake, or 
chocolate-caramel icing. 

Cairo Filling 

Boil lJ/> pounds of brown sugar with 1 gill of cream and 
1 gill of black strong coffee to the "soft ball" ; take off the fire 

253 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and beat in 2 ounces of butter. Use this filling between layers 
of spice or chocolate cake, flavored with cinnamon. Frost 
with maple or coffee icing, sprinkled with a few chopped nuts. 

London Filling 

Take 1 pound of blanched almonds, 1/2 pound of seeded 
raisins, 4 ounces figs, simmer in a light syrup with the juice 
of 1 lemon to a soft filling; add to some boiled icing, and use 
with fondant covered cakes, sprinkled with a few chopped 
nuts. 

Berlin Filling 

Mix even parts of good currant jelly, almond paste, 
browned and crushed filberts into a smooth spreading paste. 
Use between layers of butter sponge cake or rich pound cake 
containing almonds or nuts. Finish top of cakes by spreading 
a thin covering of raspberry jam, and over this a cover of 
marzipan paste. Then frost with fondant and decorate as 
desired. 

Neapolitan Filling 

Use boiled icing or marshmallow, divide in three parts, 
color one part pink, flavor raspberry, color another part a 
light green, flavor pistachio, leave one part white, flavor 
almond. Fill between thin layers of butter sponge cake or 
other rich layer cake to make a 4-layer cake. Frost top with 
tri-colored icing in stripes, which may also be put on in marble 
fashion. 

Mapleine Filling 

Boil V2 pound of maple syrup with 4 yolks until it thickens ; 
take off, add a spoonful of butter, then beat cold, mix with 
chopped nut meats, flavor with nutmeg. Use with maple- 
frosted cake. 

Apricotine Filling 

Mix hot apricot jam into some marshmallow or stiff 
meringue, adding a few crushed nuts or almonds. This makes 
a nice filling for all kinds of layers. 

254 



I IKES I OR BAKERS 

Ipple Fining 

Blake a nice white apple sauce, let cool and mix with 
whipped cream, Savor cinnamon, in proportion to ' - pint firm 
apple aauce to l pint of whipped cream sweetened and flavored. 
This makes a fine filling for apple shortcake as well as layer 
takes, it may be used for covering the top of cakes, finishing 
it with a lattice of currant jelly or apple jelly. 

Marguerite Pilling 

Mix into l pint of warm pastry cream, '- ounce of melted 
gelatin, add ' - pound <«t" fine-cu1 candied fruit, some chopped 

walnuts and crushed macaroons. 

I'ruii Fillings with Gelatin 
Simmer fresh or preserved fruit in a light syrup to soften. 

Cutting it in small dice. I><» not stir soft fruit to preserve the 
shape. Drain off the mice and syrup and add for each pint 

of the syrup l ounce of dissolved gelatin. Let the syrup get 

tool and when it thickens DOUT over the cooled fruit. This 

may be mixed with whipped cream, or the fruit may be used 

singly or in combinations for filling in cake or in tarts, also 
in combination with nut meats of all kinds. 

All fillings containing whipped cream or gelatin are best 

handled cool and kept in a cool place. 

Crushed Fruit Fillings 

Berries, cherries, peaches, apricots and grated pineapple 
may be made into fillings by adding to each gallon of crushed 
fruit from 6 to 8 pounds of sugar, with a little acid for some 
fruits which contain very little acid. Stir and let boil until 
it falls in flakes from the paddle or skimmer and put away 
for use. For less expensive fillings a part of apple pulp may 
be used with the crushed fruit and boiled down until it jellies. 
Use good cooking apples for this purpose. (See "Fruit Jams 
and Jellies." 



255 



XIV. PIES AND PIE-MAKING 



In the modern pie factory all of the fruit used is prepared 
by cooking - . While fresh fruit makes a very good flavored pie, 
for commercial purposes the fresh fruit is too costly to be 
used without adding a filler, unless fresh fruit is plentiful 
and a good price can be obtained. Pies made from fresh fruits 
in season are always in good demand. One large pie bakery 
which preserves fresh fruit in season, having a large cold 
storage plant, simply puts the fruit in packages which are 
frozen solid in the cold storage. The fruit is taken out on 
requisition as needed, and allowed to thaw out for a few 
hours before using. Handled in this manner, the fruits retain 
their flavor to a better degree. Fresh apples are used in some 
bakeries during the time the price is even with the canned 
fruit ; if prices rise canned fruit or dried fruit is used. 

PIE FILLERS 

By using a good filler a good full pie can be made that can 
be sold at a profit. Economical bakers use the parings of the 
green fruit to make a filler. The peelings are covered with 
water, and boiled until the juice may be pressed from the 
skins. The extract is then sweetened and thickened with 
cornstarch and boiled clear. This thickener may also be used 
in berry pies as a filler. 

When using canned fruit a better filler is made by straining 
the juice off the fruit, adding sufficient sugar to this juice and 
letting it come to a boil ; add tapioca or starch and let thicken, 
then pour this over the fruit, mix and let cool. A gallon can 
of apples requires about l 1 /), pounds of sugar, spices, 2 to 214 
ounces starch, and 1 ounce good butter, to make a good filler. 
This makes a better filler than simply chopping and mixing 
the canned fruit with sugar, spice and starch, and filling it in 
the pies. 

256 



LKES FDR BAKERS 
Pie idler from Ground Tapioca 

To make a good filler use tapioca ground like cornmeal. 
This may be bought from bakers' Bupply firms. Take L2 
quarts cold water, 6 pounds Bugar, ~ pounds ground tapioca. 
M and put kettle <>n tin- fire, and stir until the milky appear- 
ance disappears, when tin- mixture is done. The mixture 
Bhould not i>"i! only become clear. Take a reasonable amount 
of this filler and use it with canned fruit or fresh fruit. 
Tapioca is almost neutral and without flavor and docs not 
interfere with the delicate flavor of the fruit. 

milar filler may be made with cornstarch, but corn- 
starch has a flavor that interferes with the fruit flavor and 
often breaks and becomes watery when Btanding for .some time. 

Flavoring of Fruit Pies 

Apple pie. which is the most popular fruit pie. is seasoned 

with cinnamon <»r nutmeg. Some use allspice. The seasoning 
is often done carelessly, bo it happens that no uniformly 
flavored fruit pie is made. Some practical bakers mix the 
sugar used for Bweetening the pies with a combination of 

Bpices t<> Becure an evenly seasoned pie, as follows: To 2 

pounds granulated Sugar add 10 ounces cinnamon. 1 ounces 
mace and ground nutmeg, - ounces allspice and 1 ounce salt. 

Mix this well, and use sufficient of the spiced sugar to flavor 
by adding it to the prepared fruit, with more plain sugar as 
required. 

Pie Stock from Dried Fruit 

When using evaporated fruit, take the quantity needed for 
a day's work. Pour over it boiling water to sterilize bacteria, 
then wash off with cold water, and soak over night in cold 
water. When using apples figure 1 pound of apples to five 
pies. This will give the number of pounds to be prepared for 
the day's output. It is advisable to chop or grind the dried 
fruit into small pieces, after which it should be allowed to 
soak in cold water for twelve to fourteen hours. To use, drain 
off the surplus water, add sugar and spices, and it is ready for 
the pie. Some ready-made filler may be added. 

257 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Canned Fruits in Pies — Buying Canned Fruit 

All canned fruits contain more or less water or juice. In 
buying- canned fruits, the best method is to open samples of 
different brands and grades, weigh the solid contents, com- 
pare as to quality and price, and select the best. It is better to 
pay a fair price and not look for the cheapest grade. Never 
buy peaches with the peel on for pies as they are very bitter, 
unfit for use. Cheap, inferior grades consist largely of unripe 
or overripe fruit, or the cans contain very little of the fruit 
and plenty of water. 

Many of the canned fruits and even some fresh fruits lack 
flavor and acidity. A little salt added often helps to bring 
out a better flavor, and a little acid added also improves the 
fillings. Citric acid and tartaric acid are derived from fruits, 
and a solution may be made from 1 pound acid crystals dis- 
solved in 1 quart warm water, a little of which may be added 
to the pie fruit to give the proper snap. The same solution is 
used at soda fountains to season fruit syrups. 

DRIED FRUIT PIES 

Dried Berry Pie with Filler 

Soak and cover 5 pounds evaporated berries in 14 quarts 
cold water. Let come to a boil and cook a few minutes. Mix 
6 pounds sugar with 2 pounds ground tapioca, add to berries, 
and stir until mixture clears, let cool and use. 

Raisin Pie Filling 

Put 6 quarts water, 4 pounds sugar, 10 ounces tapioca on 
the fire, stir until it clears, then add 8 pounds seeded raisins, 
mix and let cool. The addition of the juice of two lemons 
improves this filling. 

Prune Pie 

Wash prunes and soak in cold water. Let boil until soft 
and remove the stones. For each quart of stoned fruit add 
8 ounces sugar, 1 pint water; season with spices, or whole 
stick cinnamon, rind and juice of a lemon. Let come to a 
boil and thicken with V/o ounces tapioca or starch. Let cool 
and use. 

258 



CAKES FOR B AKERS 

I RESH BBRR1 WD OTHER 1 Kl 11 PIES 

Green Apple I'm 

oking apples should be used if using the fresh 

fruit. Some apples are best used Btewed, in which case the 

ar and a little starch or Hour may be added mixed with 

the Bugar for a thickener. Peel, core ami slice apples, mix 

•i part of BUgar with the fruit, use <»uly very little spiee — 

having the fruit flavor predominate, till in the prepared bot- 
toms, sprinkle a little more sugar on top of the fruit, cover 

and hake in not too quick oven giving the fruit time to cook 

fully. 

To use the peeling ami con- add about one quart of water 

to each pound of them and let boil well, strain and for each 

quart of the juice add ' ■_> pound Bugar, and - j ounces of Btarch 

dissolved. Let boil Clear and used with the fruit as a tiller. 

A little citric arid solution or some lemon juice added will 

improve this tiller. 

Gooscbcrij Pie 

For gooseberry pie the cleaned fruit is best Btewed, and if 
the fruit is very high in price, finely chopped apples may be 

added to the berries, or some tiller used. Take 12 ounces 
Bugar and '- pint water for each pound berries. Let fruit, 
BUgar and water come to a boil, then add from 1 | -j to 2 ounces 
Starch or tapioca, dissolved in cold water; stir and let boil 
clear. 

Cherry Pie 

Mix the pitted cherries with sufficient sugar to sweeten, 
let stand for the juice and sugar to form a syrup, drain off 
the syrup, let come to a boil, adding sufficient thickener dis- 
solved in cold water, let boil clear, and mix with the fruit. 

Blueberry Pie 

For 10 quarts berries take 2i/o quarts water, 6 pounds 
sugar, dissolve and let come to a boil, thicken with about 8 
ounces starch or tapioca, let clear, and mix with the berries. 
Season with a little salt, cinnamon and fruit acid. 

259 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Cranberry Pie 

Take 10 pounds berries, 12 pounds sugar, 2i/ 2 to 3 quarts 
water. Dissolve 12 ounces starch or tapioca in 2 quarts of 
water and mix with the boiling berries, boil up once and let 
cool. 

Mock Cherry Pie 

Soak 5 pounds seedless raisins over night. Let 5 pounds 
cranberries, 2 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, come to a boil, 
then add the soaked raisins and 6 ounces cornstarch or tapioca ; 
let thicken and cool. 

Rhubarb Pie 

Peel and cut rhubarb in small pieces of uniform size. If 
very young and tender no cooking is required. Add for each 
pound rhubarb 12 ounces sugar, '/£ ounce cornstarch, mix and 
let soften, then fill in the pies. 

Or mix 10 pounds rhubarb with 5 pounds sugar, let stand 
to draw the juice overnight, strain off the juice, and set to 
boil, adding about 4 ounces of dissolved starch ; pour over the 
rhubarb and let boil and thicken. Use more sugar when filling 
the pies. Some bakers prefer to mix one-third chopped apples 
with two-thirds of the rhubarb for this pie. 

Rhubarb Preserving 

Peel and cut in pieces, put in fruit jars, and fill with cold 
water; this will keep all winter. To use, drain off the water 
and add sugar and cook like fresh rhubarb. 

Peach and Apricot Pie 

Drain the juice off the canned fruit, and for each gallon 
can add \y% pounds sugar; let juice and sugar come to boil, 
then -add 4 ounces starch dissolved in half a pint of cold water. 
Mix and let boil until it thickens, then pour over the fruit and 
let cool. A little fruit acid and a drop of bitter almond extract 
improves the flavor. 

Pineapple Pie 

To 1 gallon can grated pineapple add 2 quarts water, 5 
pounds sugar, and let come to a boil. Then add 12 ounces 

260 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



tapioca or starch dissolved In l quart water, let thicken, and 
take off the fire. Flavor may be improved by adding fruit 
add and extract of pineapple. 

Pineapple l ilium r«»i Open Pies 

ich quart pineapple add l quart water, i :t i to 2 pounds 
Bugar; flavor with juice and grated rind of - to 3 lemons or 
oranj wive 5 ounces cornstarch in a little cold water, 

mix with 8 to LO yolks, and when sugar and pineapple come 
to a boil stir in the starch and yolks, let thicken, and till in 
the ready baked bottoms. Finish with meringue. 

Strawberry and Pineapple Pie 

Mix l quart of pineapple and 1 1 - pounds sugar, let come 
near a boil, and add I quart or more picked strawberries; 
thicken with l ' ^ to 2 ounces dissolved starch as usual. Fill 
in pit bottoms when cool. Cover pies with a lattice and border, 
wash and bake, or bake without washing and sift pow- 
dered sugar over when done. 

MINCE PIE AM) MINCEMEATS 

Most all bakers buy their mincemeats from reliable firms 
who make a specialty of putting up mincemeats. There are 
quite a number of very good condensed mincemeats in the 

market, which are very handy to use in the bakery, saving- 
time and labor. Mince pies are made usually with a full cover, 
like apple pies, and lunchrooms make often a specialty of this 
kind of pie and serve the pies hot to their customers. 

Mincemeat 

No. 1 — 1") pounds peeled and cored apples, 5 pounds lean 
boiled beef, 2 1 g pounds suet, 5 pounds seeded raisins, 5 pounds 
currants, 2 pounds candied orange peel, 2 to 3 pounds citron, 
5 lemons — rind and juice, 5 pounds brown sugar, Yi gallon 
cider, 5 ounces mixed spices, 2 ounces salt. 

No. 2 — 30 pounds peeled and cored apples, 5 pounds suet, 
5 pounds boiled beef or beef hearts, 10 pounds seedless raisins, 
10 pounds currants, 6 pounds mixed peel — citron, lemon and 
oranges, 15 pounds brown sugar, 3 ounces cinnamon, 1 ounce 

261 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cloves, 2 ounces nutmeg, 3 ounces salt, cider to moisten the 
mixture. 

The peel and cores of the apples may be made into a filler 
instead of using cider. Cover the peelings with plenty of 
water, boil and stir until very soft, then strain off the liquid 
and sweeten with sugar, adding a little fruit acid. Use this 
in the place of cider. Some bakers use some of the low-grade 
pail jelly and mix this with the mincemeat. Dried apples may 
be used to take the place of green apples, and prepared the 
same as pie stock from dried apples. Lemon peel and orange 
peel from the fresh fruit, left over in the making of sherbets 
or fruit ices may be saved and used instead of buying can- 
died peel ; the rinds may be simply boiled tender, changing the 
water a couple of times during boiling, then chopped fine 
before adding, or preserved for use. 

In the mixing of mincemeats the boiled beef and suet, also 
apples and candied peels, are chopped fine. Cider or fruit 
juice may be mixed with the sugar and heated to dissolve and 
sterilize the cider, then it may be mixed with the dry ingredi- 
ents, and let stand in a cold place for at least one week before 
using. 

Mock Mince Pie 

Stew raisins same as for raisin pie, add sufficient chopped 
apples, raisins, peel and spices, add cider or apple juice with 
sugar to sweeten, and bake like ordinary mince pie. 

PUMPKIN AND SQUASH PIES 

No. 1 — 1 gallon can pumpkin, 1 gallon fresh milk, 1 pint 
whole eggs, 1 pint yolks, 4 pounds brown sugar, 6 ounces flour, 
2 ounces spice mixture. Mix in cake machine, putting sugar 
and eggs with spices in machine, mix well, then add the 
pumpkin, mix again, then add milk and mix well. Let stand 
for a while. Before filling the mixture in the pies mix up 
well, beating it so a foam forms. This foam bakes and forms 
a cover, holds the top together in baking and prevents cracking. 

Spice mixture used: 1 pound cinnamon, 1 pound ginger, 
Yz pound mace or nutmeg, 14 pound cloves, 114 pounds salt. 

262 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



Mix this well together and use in the pumpkin pies as Bug- 

■ ed. 

\ _ — l quart can pumpkin, l pound sugar, 5 eggs, 3 
ounces strong flour, ' - ounce spices, l quart milk. Mix makes 
7 pies. 

Preell Pumpkin I'ie 

Mo. 3 •"• pounds fresh pumpkin cooked and rubbed 
through sieve, 12 ounces brown sugar, l ' g pints eggs, 3 ounces 
!l«>ur. l ' _. ounces mixed Bpices, 3 quarts fresh sweet milk, l 
ounces melted butter, lightly browned. Mix like No. l. 

Pumpkin Pie with Drj Milk 

No. l—l quart pumpkin. 6 eggs, I ( - ounces strong Hour. 
'•j pound milk powder, l_i ounces brown sugar, ' d pint 
molasses, l ounce mixed Bpices, - quarts water. Mix the dry 

ingredients, then add eggs, pumpkin, lastly the water, let 

stand for one-half hour, mix well and use. 

Squash pies are made the same as pumpkin pies. 
CUSTARD PIES 

Use straight fresh milk containing the full cream. Take 
1 to .") r<j:<i>, l to 1 ' ^ ounces cornstarch, I ounces sugar for 

each quart milk. Mix sugar, starch and eggs well, then add 
milk gradually, mix well, and flavor with vanilla or nutmeg, 
with a pinch of salt. 

Baking of Custard Pies 

Custard pies are filled in the oven. The ready bottoms are 
set in the oven, often with a little custard filled in before the 
pies are placed in the oven ; this prevents the blistering or 
drawing up in the oven. The filling is done with a dipper 
made for this purpose, to which a long wooden handle may be 
attached. Custard must be baked carefully. Overbaking 
causes the milk and eggs to curdle. If underbaked, milk will 
be found in center. To acertain that the custard is done, take 
the clean, dry point of a knife and insert it in the center of 
the pie. If the point comes out dry, the custard is done; 
when not done, milk will be found on the blade. A little close 

263 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



observation will soon teach you to know when the custard is 
done. 

Custard Pie — Egg Saver 

Take 4 ounces cornstarch, 2 eggs, 4 ounces sugar, for each 
quart fresh full cream milk ; mix well before filling in the pies. 
Flavor with vanilla or nutmeg. 

Chocolate Custard Pie 

Mix 10 ounces sugar, 2Vsj ounces cornstarch, 3 ounces pow- 
dered cocoa, with 8 eggs; gradually add 1 quart boiling milk, 
mix well, then add 1 quart cold milk, flavor of vanilla or cinna- 
mon. Fill in the bottoms and bake like plain custard pie. 

Cocoanut Custard Pie 

Fill a small handful of shredded or fresh grated cocoanut 
into the pie bottoms, add a little custard, then fill pies in the 
oven the same as plain custard. 

L^MON AND ORANGE PIE FILLINGS 

No. 1 — 1 quart water, 1 pound sugar, 4 to 5 lemons, 5 
yolks, 3!/2 ounces cornstarch, 1 to 2 ounces melted butter. 

No. 2 — 1 quart water, % pound sugar, 3 lemons, 3 ounces 
cornstarch, 1 ounce butter, 3 yolks. 

Method of mixing: Dissolve starch in cold water and mix 
with the yolks, grate the rind of the lemon on the sugar, set 
water, sugar and J^mon juice to boil. When it boils stir in the 
starch and yolkt,, ritir until it thickens; take off the fire, add 
the butter, then while warm fill in the previously baked bot- 
toms. 

Mixture for Covered Lemon Pie 

No. 3 — 7 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, 9 eggs, 8 ounces 
butter, 10 lemons, 1 1-3 pounds cornstarch, a little acid solu- 
tion, egg color. (See fruit acid solution under canned fruits). 
Mix and prepare like No. 1. Tapioca may be used in prefer- 
ence to cornstarch and the whole lemon with the seeds re- 
moved may be ground fine and used in the filler. 

264 



I AKE S POR BAKERS 

Orange Pie 

Blake the Bame as lemon pie, using less of the grated rind, 
adding Bome lemon juice or Borne fruit acid If oranges are very 
Bweel . 

Lemon (ream or Orange Cream Pie 

Tin- lemon pie mixtures No. l and No. 2 may be made into 
a nice cream pit-, using milk instead of" water. Cook milk. 
Bugar and grated rind together, and when it boils add the dis- 
solved Btarch mixture with the yolks; when it thickens, add the 
lemon or orange juice the last thing. Stir well, and take oil 

the lire. Fill in tin- baked crusts, then eowr with meringue 

as usual, dust with suyar. and let color nicely in the own. 
Pineapple Meringue or Pineapple (ream Tie 

Use lemon or orange pie mixture, adding some grated or 

finely cut canned pint-apple to either and leaving out a part 
Of the grated rind and juice of the lemons. 

CREAM PIES 

Take to each quart of milk 1 ounces sugar, set to boil, dis- 
solve 2 ' -j ounces cornstarch in \fo pint milk, add 1 to 5 yolks 
and 4 ounces sugar, stir and dissolve. Mix some of the hot milk 
with yolks and starch, and when the milk comes to a boil, 
add starch and yolks and stir until it thickens; then add about 
1 ounce butter, flavor with vanilla, or grated lemon or orange 
rind, fill in the ready baked bottoms and finish with meringue. 

Cocoanut Cream Pie 

Add about 4 ounces grated or desiccated cocoanut to the 
hot mixture, flavor vanilla or orange. 

Chocolate Cream Pie 

Add 2 ounces cocoa or melted chocolate. 
Butterscotch Pie 

No. 1 — Make like plain cream pies; flavor with lemon and 
use brown sugar in the place of granulated sugar; or use part 

265 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



brown sugar and part granulated sugar, with a little good but- 
ter. Finish like meringue pie. 

No. 2 — Bring to a boil 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pint water, 
8 ounces butter. Mix together 8 eggs, 4 ounces cornstarch, 
2 quarts milk, add this to the boiling mixture and mix well, 
then bake until set. 

SPECIAL PIES 

Dairy or Fruit Cream Pie 

A thin layer of vanilla cream is filled in the baked bottom, 
covered with fresh strawberries or raspberries, sliced peaches 
or preserved fruits, or jam, and this in turn covered with 
whipped cream or with meringue. These pies are very nice for 
the lunchroom. 

Jellied Pie 

A very popular pie is made in some lunchrooms from pre- 
pared "one-minute" gelatin powder to use up surplus fruit on 
hand which might otherwise become unsalable. Oranges are 
peeled, seeds removed and the pulp cut in small pieces, mixed 
with sliced bananas, pineapple, white grapes, etc., or with 
berries in season. About three packages of the unsweetened 
powder are dissolved in a quart of boiling water and let cool, 
until nearly set. This is then mixed with the sweetened fresh 
fruit, and when it begins to set filled in the ready baked cold 
pie crusts. This gelatin may be colored as required. A cov- 
ering is made from a marshmallow meringue, to which 
some dissolved gelatin is added. This is set in a cold place to 
cool and stiffen, and ready to serve. It is not advisable to 
keep these pies in warm weather — they must be kept cool and 
served cold, the same as the dairy cream pies with whipped 
cream, or served from the refrigerator. 

Banana Pie 

Peel and slice bananas, thin, sweeten with sugar, add a 
pinch of butter, ginger or allspice, some lemon or orange juice. 
Bake with a full cover, or if in open fashion cover with me- 
ringue when done. 

266 



IKES FOR BAKERS 

Combination Frail Ties 

Apples may be mixed with raisins and mixed peel, <>r with 
rhubarb, quinces, cranberries, grapes or raisins. 

Pie a la Mode 

A CUt of almost any kind of fruit pie i> BeTVed with a spoon- 

ful of ice cream on the top or side. 

Boston Cream Pie — Martha Washington Pie 

a layei cake or Bponge cake in deep pie tins or layer 
tins. Let coo] and split in halves. Fill with a good pastry 
cream or nut cream or with whipped cream, put together, and 
ice, "i' sift powdered Bugar on top. 

\\ ashington < ream Pie 

Line pie tins with :i short paste <>r rich pic oust. Mix 

together l pound cake crumbs, ' - pound ground almonds, <> 

ounces sugar, i ounces butter, 6 eggs, and a little milk, add 
• | ounce baking powder, and till in the lined tins. Bake, and 

ice with vanilla fondant. Chocolate may he added and the 

pie finished like meringue pic. 

Strawberry or Teach Meringue Tie — Fresh Fruit 

Bake bottoms of good top crust. Sprinkle a layer of light 
cake crumbs in hottom, then cover with well ripened straw- 
berries or raspberries, or peeled and sliced peaches. Finish 
with a lattice and border of meringue, or a full cover of me- 
ringue and brown nicely in the oven. 

Marshmallow or whipped cream may be used in the place 
of meringue, and the pies kept in a cool place until ready to 
serve. 

A similar pie, with fruit, may be made like the Boston 
cream pie, placing the ripe fruit on cream between two layers 
of cakes and sifting powdered sugar on top, or decorating with 
whipped cream. 



267 



XV. PUDDINGS, JAMS, JELLIES 



PUDDINGS 

During the cold months, and especially during the Christ- 
mas month, plum puddings find a good sale. The usual brown 
bread tins, or in fact any tin with a cover, may be used, small 
earthenware bowls are also used by many caterers, to steam 
or boil the puddings. They are best steamed, but if no steamer 
is handy a large kettle or boiler, with a perforated bottom set 
in which will hold enough water to supply the necessary 
steam, can be used. Grease the tins or bowls well and dust 
with flour. Fill tins about three-fourths full, so as to give 
room for the puddings to swell, then put on the cover with a 
piece of wet floured (or tie the bowls in a wet and flour-dusted) 
cloth, and boil or steam for from 2 to 4 hours, according to size 
of pudding. The water must be replenished with more boiling 
water as it boils down. Let the pudding cool down in the tins 
when done, over night. To remove, set tins in hot water and 
they will come out easily and keep their shape. 

Plum Pudding 

No. 1 — 2 pounds bread crumbs, 114 pounds finely chopped 
suet, 8 ounces flour, 114 pounds brown sugar, 12 eggs, 1 pint 
milk, 14 pint rum or brandy, 1 pound sultanas, 1 pound seeded 
large raisins, 1 pound currants, 8 ounces mixed citron and 
orange peel, finely cut, 14 ounce cinnamon, V2 ounce mixed 
allspice and nutmeg, the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, 
i/4, teaspoonful soda. Mix the dry ingredients and add the 
liquids. Add more milk if mixture is too firm, fill in moulds 
as directed and steam from 2 to 4 hours. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds crumbs, V& pounds flour, IV2 pounds suet, 
1/2 pint molasses, IV2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds raisins, 1 pound 

268 



\Ki:s 1 <>K BAKERS 

currants, l pound citron, ' - pound orange peel, l ' •_• ounces 
mixed Bpicea, ' i ounce soda, ' j ounce salt. 

No. S 3 pounds crumbs, 3 pounds brown sugar, l pounds 
suet. l ,| _' ounces salt, mix with L6 beaten eggs, 2 quarts milk, 
l quart X. 0. molasses, ">'j to t; pounds cake flour, l ounce 
cinnamon, ' - ounce mace, ' -j ounce allspice, - 1 - ounces baking 
powder. Mix and add 6 pounds seeded raisins, ti pounds cur- 
rants, Or half small raisins and currants. 1 i ._. pounds citron. 
'•j pound orange peel, I lemons— grated rind and juice, l 
pound almonds finely cut. Mix well and steam as directed. 

They may he taken from the tins when cold, wrapped and 

labeled attractively, reads- for sale. 

\ \ arietj of Frail Puddings 

Besides the given plum puddings a variety of lighter pud- 
dings can lie made in the bakery, using stale bread crumbs 
to tin- i»est advantage. 

standard Frail Pudding 
l pound bread crumbs, ' - pound flour, ' - pound chopped 

heel' suet, j g pound sugar. '- pound seeded or seedless raisins, 
'- pound currants. ", pound chopped citron, j •> ounce mixed 
spice, 2 to 1 eggs, ' i teaspoon soda, salt, milk to mix, the 
grated rind and juice of one lemon. Mix like plum pudding 1 . 
This may be made into a plum pudding adding | •_> pint mo- 
lasses in the place of sugar. 

For Cocoanut Pudding: Leave out raisins, currants and 
spices, add 'o pound freshly grated or shredded cocoanut, and 
4 ounces finely chopped orange peel. 

For Fig Pudding, add ' o pound finely cut figs, and some 
candied citron or orange peel. 

For Date Pudding, add j •_> pound dates cut in small pieces. 

For Lemon or Orange Pudding, add \ f -> pound of finely cut 
lemon or orange peel, the grated rind and juice of one lemon 
or orange. Sultanas, seeded raisins, sliced peaches, apples, or 
apricots may be used in similar ways. 

These puddings may be boiled or steamed in molds. They 
may be served in lunchrooms, or sold whole the same as plum 

269 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



puddings, and bakers can work up a nice trade during the 
cold months. 

JAMS AND JELLIES 

The making of jams and jellies has been discontinued in 
the bakery, and very good articles may be bought for less 
money, considering time and labor required. This part of the 
work is done by specialists and with perfect appliances in the 
factories. Goods are made in different grades, and the high- 
grade goods may be obtained at a fair price. 

Jam Making 

The methods of making jams is practically the same for 
the different fruits. All jams and jellies should be cooked 
rapidly over a hot fire or in a steam- jacketed preserving kettle, 
in order to obtain the best flavor and bright color. Large 
fruits may be thinly sliced, berries may be used whole, but do 
not remain whole in the cooking. For jam, the fruit, sugar 
and if necessary a little water are stirred over the fire con- 
tinuously. A part of glucose added with the sugar is pref- 
erable, as it prevents crystallization. Jams are cooked until 
a drop put on a plate will retain the shape of a bead without 
spreading, and in the commercial jam making a thermometer 
is used similar in shape to the dough thermometers. The 
jam is usually cooked to 222 degrees Fahr. When finished at 
this point, the jam drops off in flakes from the side of the 
spoon, instead of coming off in drops. It becomes quickly 
thicker when cold, but for baking purposes jams may be 
cooked a few degrees higher, up to 224 to 225 degrees Fahr. 

The general rule for jams and jellies is to use 1 pound 
sugar for 1 pound pulp or fruit juice, but a more delicate 
flavor is obtained by using only % pound sugar. Glucose may 
be used in proportion of from 1 to 2 pounds glucose to 10 
pounds sugar. When making berries into jam it is best to 
use a part of berries under-ripe, say half of each, the other 
part fully ripe. The ripe fruit gives the flavor, while the 
slightly under-ripe berries give the jelly-like consistency to 
the finished product. In the cooking of jams shallow vessels 
are best suited for the evaporation and cooking required. Put 

270 



CAKES Mil; BAKERS 



the co.»k.-,: elly iii containers when cooled down to L76 

al with melted paraffin. 

Apple juice is leas expensive and is very useful in adding 

to other fruits such as berries, winch are in some seasons very 

• -. and apple mire is used often in even proportions with 

the mice of berries to reduce the cost of production. 



To 10 pounds berries take 8 pounds BUgar, mix and stir 

until it drops in flakes from the Bpoon, then till in the con- 
tamer- as directed. 

\pple Jell] and Jan 

Tin- peeling and core of apples, or the entire apples, are 
covered with water and boiled for half an hour, then Altered 
through cheesecloth and boiled down to three-fourths of the 

volume. This filtered mice may be added to the mice of ber- 
and other fruit as mentioned previously, or, when making 
a pure apple jelly, for each gallon of apple juice 8 pounds 
BUgar are added, Btirred until dissolved on the fire, then boiled 
continuously until it jellies. When the BUgar is first dissolved 
it will run syrup from paddle or skimmer. The next stage it 
will string, and at the next it will break from the paddle in 
drops. To judge, place a drop on a cool surface. It will head 
and not run flat. A good test is to let the jelly cook sufficiently 
so the drops are rather heavy and slide off in a Hake. The 
jelly point is near IMS and 221 decrees Kahr. 

For apple jam, cook apples with sufficient water and when 
soft press through a sieve. Cooking the fruit with the peel 
makes a firmer jam. For 10 pounds of this pulp take 6 pounds 
sugar, cook and stir constantly until it jellies. For a clear 
jam add the grated rind and juice of 2 or 3 lemons. For a 
red jam, use the dark red skinned apples with same propor- 
tions of sugar, or 2 pounds of cranberries or raspberries may 
be added. 

Pulp expressed from jelly making may be used in cheaper 
grades of jams. 

For cherry jelly, raspberry jelly, strawberry jelly or black- 
berry jelly, use the same proportions of sugar, and equal parts 

271 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



of apple juice may be boiled down with these fruits and fin- 
ished as usual. 

Commercial Apple Jelly 

Use 6 pounds apple juice, 2 quarts water, 4 to 6 ounces 
agar-agar (Japanese gelatin), 1/2 ounce citric acid, 2 quarts 
cranberries, 10 pounds granulated sugar, 10 pounds glucose. 
Soak gelatin in 1 quart water, boil cranberries soft in 1 quart 
water and strain. Add the dissolved gelatine after other in- 
gredients are boiled to 220\ Mix well and let boil up again — 
(if boiled with acid — it will not set well.) Mix with other 
ingredients, add the dissolved acid and gelatin. Let boil to 
the thread degree or 220 degrees. Other flavors or fruit 
juices, such as raspberry, currants, etc., may be used with the 
apple juice in the same proportions. 

Where there is not sufficient acid present in the fruit to 
make the jellies "jell," factories add some acid to make them 
stand better. These acids are known as coagulants or fruit 
acids. They are made by dissolving 1 pound tartaric acid 
in 1 quart water, or 1 pound citric acid in 1 pint water. These 
acids are used in the proportion of about 2 ounces of the 
solution in 10 pounds jelly or less, depending on the amount 
of acidity in the fruit. 



272 



XVI. ICE CREAMS, ICES, 
SYRUPS, ETC. 



[ce creams, to conform with pure food laws, should con- 
tain not leas than l l per cent milk fat. The best plan is to 
good grade of cream, that is, to use an L8 to 20 per cenl 
m, as the adding of sugar, flavor, etc., reduces the cream 
ral per cent. 

STANDARD FORMULA FOR PLAIN ICE CREAM 

To 10 quarts 18 per cent cream, add I pounds granulated 
Bugar; dissolve Bugar thoroughly by Btirring; add 2 ounces 
dissolved gelatin, flavor with about 2 ounces vanilla extract. 
This mixture may be used for a variety of ice creams. 

Chocolate Ice (ream 

For chocolate ice cream, dissolve 12 ounces chocolate or 
cocoa with ' -j pound sugar and sufficient water on the fire to 

form a thick syrup. Add this to the given mixture and freeze 
as usual. The hot process of making the cream is often pre- 
ferred when using chocolate or fruit, producing a smoother 
cream but less hulk. 

Chocolate Ice Cream, Hot Process 

Use Standard formula given. Put sugar and finely cut 
chocolate or cocoa (from 12 to 16 ounces) into kettle, and a 
little of the cream, stir on the fire until dissolved, gradually 
add the rest of the cream, and heat the mixture to near boiling 
point or to about 180 degrees, but do not let it boil. Then take 
off the fire, strain, and cool before freezing. 

Coffee Ice Cream 

Follow the same method, heating sugar and cream to 180 
degrees, take off the fire, and add from 10 to 12 ounces finely 

278 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



ground coffee. Cover and let draw for thirty minutes, strain, 
add gelatin and caramel color if required, let cool thoroughly, 
and freeze. Some ice cream makers prefer to add the coffee 
extracted in about a quart of boiling water to the cold mixture 
given. 

STANDARD ICE CREAM WITH EGGS— NEW YORK 
ICE CREAM 

For 10 quarts 20 per cent cream take 4*4 pounds sugar, 
12 whole eggs, or 20 yolks of eggs. Set 6 quarts cream on the 
fire with half the sugar; beat the eggs lightly with the other 
half of the sugar, and when light, thin the eggs with a part of 
the hot cream. Then put eggs and cream together on the fire, 
stirring constantly. As soon as the mixture on the fire begins 
to thicken (which may be ascertained by its coating the 
spatula or beater), add the remaining 4 quarts cold cream to 
check the boiling. Take off the fire, strain and cool, add flavor, 
and freeze as usual. Gelatin may be used in this cream if 
desired, adding the dissolved gelatin when nearly cool. The 
proper cooking requires close watching at the point when the 
eggs begin to thicken. The cream should lose the raw egg 
taste, but not come to a boil. Boiling would curdle the eggs 
and prevent the proper amalgamation of cream and eggs. 

Most of the different flavored creams may be made as sug- 
gested by the cold process, especially chocolate, caramel, vanilla 
and nut creams. Fruit creams have better flavor without 
eggs, and the cold mixtures are preferred. 

For fruit creams, such as strawberry, raspberry, and peach, 
mash about 2 quarts fully ripe fruit, adding a part of the 
sugar, and when the cream is partly frozen, add the crushed 
and sweetened fruit and finish freezing. For nut creams 
almonds should be blanched and browned, then crushed; fil- 
berts roasted and the skin removed, then crushed; walnuts 
and pecans, simply chopped fine. From 1 to 2 pounds nut- 
meats may be added to the quantity of ice cream called for in 
the Standard recipes. 

Burnt Almond Ice Cream — Nougat Ice Cream 

Brown 1 pound blanched almonds. Put 1 pound sugar on 
the fire, stir until it melts without burning, and when it turns 

274 



CAKES POR I'.AKERS 



a golden brown add the browned almonds, mix, and turn out 
on pan «>r marble slat) to let cool. Crush the almonds with a 
rolling pin and sift through a wide mesh sieve. This mixture 
may be kept on hand for use. adding from 1 to 8 ounces to 
each gallon of cream before cooking; or if only a small quan- 
tity is required, add sufficient to the ready frozen plain vanilla 
a York ice cream. 

Hazelnut or Filbert Ice (ream 

Add Prom I to 6 ounces browned crushed nuts to each gal- 
lon of vanilla ice cream, with a small quantity of caramel 
coloring to give a light brown shade. 

Pistachio Ice (ream 

For each gallon of cream add s to L2 ounces blanched pis- 
tachio nuts, and flavor with pistachio extract. If almonds are 
substituted, take 12 ounces blanched almonds, run through 
chopper or crushed line, flavor with pistachio, and color cream 
a delicate light green. 

Bisque Ice (ream 

To each gallon of partly frozen cream add from 12 to 16 
ounces dried and crushed macaroons, or a mixture of crushed 
wafers and browned almonds, passed through a wide mesh 
sieve. Vanilla flavor preferred. 

Tutti Frutti Ice (ream 

Take 1 pound candied cherries, 1 pound mixed French fruit 
glace, 1 pound walnut meats. Chop the fruit in small pieces 
and cover with a light syrup, let simmer on slow fire to soften, 
then set aside and let cool. This may be kept on hand in jars. 
Add H/2 pounds of this mixture to 1 gallon partly frozen 
cream and finish freezing. 

Nesselrode Ice Cream 

Add to tutti frutti mixture Yi pound finely cut seeded 
raisins, 4 ounces citron. 

Tutti frutti ice cream and Nesselrode ice cream are often 

275 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



frozen in brick form, or in fancy melon forms, cut in slices, 
and served with a rich custard sauce or whipped cream sauce. 

FROZEN PUDDINGS 
Plum Pudding 

To 1 quart chocolate ice cream or tutti frutti ice cream, 
flavored with spices and colored with caramel, add sufficient 
French fruit glaces, chopped nuts and raisins, flavor of cloves 
and cinnamon. Freeze in brick mold from 2 to 3 hours. Serve 
with a cold custard sauce. 

Royal Ice Cream — Royal Pudding 

To 1 quart New York ice cream add 1/2 pound candied pine- 
apple, 2 ounces cherries, 1 ounce blanched pistachio nuts cut 
in shreds and V2 pint whipped cream, and freeze again in brick 
mold for 2 to 3 hours. Serve with a cold custard sauce. 

Cold Chocolate Sauce 

IV2 pounds sugar, 1 pint water, 8 ounces chocolate. Mix 
and dissolve on the fire, let come to a boil and strain. Let 
cool and flavor with vanilla. 

Sauce Mousseline 

Beat 1 pint 35 per cent whipping cream on ice until nearly 
firm, sweeten with 4 ounces powdered sugar. Flavors of 
vanilla, maraschino, noyeau and others are used in this sauce. 

There are quite a number of fancy ice creams used for 
special occasions. (Two chapters are devoted to these "Fancy 
Ice Creams and Frozen Punches" in Paul Richards' Pastry 
Book, as well as a chapter on parfaits, mousses and biscuits 
glaces.) 

FRUIT ICES AND SHERBETS 

A very simple way of making ices and sherbets is to weigh 
and measure sugar and liquids, add fruit and flavor, mix and 
stir until the sugar is well dissolved, making a preparation, 
using the different fruits, similar to a lemonade. 

276 



I AKES POR BAKERS 



Standard Lemon Water [ce 

Take 5 pounds granulated sugar, L5 to 20 lemons (or l 1 - 
pints juice), •') quarts water. Grate the yellow rind o( LO 
lemons on the sugar, rubbing it well into the sugar to obtain 
the essentia] oil, add water, stir to dissolve the sugar, let 

infuse for one hour, then add the juice of the lemons, strain 
and fr< 

Lemon Sherbet 

Add to above 5 beaten egg whites or l ounce of dissolved 
gelatin before freezing. 

Orange Water Ice or Sherbet 

5 pounds sugar, 6 quarts water, l<» to L5 oranges, according 

to size, i | pint lemon juice, the grated rind of 5 to 6 oranges, 
and the expressed juice of all. Prepare the same as lemon ice, 

lei infuse, strain and freeze. 

For sherbet add the beaten whites of five eggs or one ounce 
dissolved gelatin before freezing. 

Pineapple Ice or Sherbet 

5 pounds sugar, '2 '-quart cans grated pineapple, ' ._, pint 

lemon juice, o'o quarts water. Fresh ripe pineapple may be 
used in proportion. Let infuse, strain and freeze. Some ice 
cream makers simply mix the grated pineapple into ready 
frozen lemon ice or sherbet. 

Strawberry, Raspberry and Peach Ices 

To 5 pounds granulated sugar add from 3 to 4 quarts 
crushed fruit pulp. Mix well and let infuse, then add 5V£ 
quarts water and some lemon juice or citric acid solution, to 
obtain a tart flavor; add color if required, and freeze as usual. 

For peach flavor add the crushed peach kernels, or a drop 
of bitter almond extract. 

Fruit acids are often used to tone up fruit ices where no 
lemon flavor is desired, or when lemons are high priced. 

The lemon water ice formula may be used as a standard 
for nearly all the ices and sherbets, simply changing the 

277 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



flavors and omitting the grated lemon rind. By adding about 
i/2 ounce melted gelatin to each gallon of ice, sherbets are pro- 
duced which are practically water ices of a lighter nature, 
usually less rich in sugar and fruit. 

Fancy fruit ices may be made by peeling and coring one 
dozen nice cooking apples and boiling them soft in a gallon 
of water; add 3V& pounds of sugar, then add a stick of cinna- 
mon, stir and let cool, strain and season with lemon juice, then 
freeze. This mixture may be colored pink, flavored vanilla or 
rose, or flavored with raspberry juice; or the cinnamon may 
be left out and the mixture flavored with peppermint, colored 
a pale green. Pears may be used in the place of apples, or 
grape juice may be added. This produces quite a variety of 
fancy ices. 

Frozen Punches 

Punches are made by adding some fancy cordial, such as 
maraschino, creme de menthe or noyeau, to sherbets. 

Frozen Fruit Salad — Macedoine of Fruit 

These ices are made from fresh fruits in season, also from 
combinations of fresh and preserved fruits and of candied 
fruits. Take oranges, bananas, pineapples, peaches, cherries, 
raspberries or strawberries, also grapes. Peel the oranges, 
remove white pith and seeds, cut grapes in halves, large straw- 
berries in quarters, other fruits in dice. Cover the fruit with 
a syrup for two hours, then drain and mix with a pineapple 
or lemon ice. Pack the mixture in a freezing can without the 
dasher, let freeze without agitation, so the fruit does not get 
broken and become mushy. This is a good means of using up 
fruit if there is plenty on hand. 

The same mixture may be served without being frozen, 
by simply packing it in ice to keep cool, and serving it as a 
fruit salad at the fountain. 

BRICK ICE CREAMS 

Single- and double-lid molds holding one or two quarts are 
used, also special long and narrow molds which make a small 
slice, suitable for ice cream sandwich. Bricks are made from 

278 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



plain cream, also in different flavors and colors as required. 
The double-lid molds are the most handy, because the ice 
cream can be easily removed, while the single-lid mold has the 
advantage of being closed at the bottom, and there is less 
danger of any brine getting in and spoiling the cream. The 
brick molds should be well filled, so that in putting down the 
... er some of the cream will squeeze out on the sides to seal 
the mold. For packing, put some salted ice in the bottom of 
the tub, lay in the bricks, cover with layers of ice and salt. 
When ice and salt have melted the cream will be frozen hard. 
It takes from two to three hours to harden L-quart and 2-quart 
bricks. To remove the cream from the mold, dip the mold for 
a moment in lukewarm water, wipe off the adhering salt with 

a cloth, take Off the cover, and let the cream slide <>ut on the 

paper used for wrapping, or cut in portions and wrap sepa- 
rately. Pack at once in cans which have been packed in ice 
previously There are special square packing tanks made with 

removable shelves, which facilitate the quick handling and 
serving of these creams. 

ICE CREAM FREEZING 

The ice cream freezers are made in various types and sizes. 
Where electric power can be secured it pays to use power 
freezers, which are made in large and small sizes. It makes 
the work easy. Some of the freezers have a crusher attach- 
ment which may be bought for a reasonable price. 

Freezing Mixture of Ice and Salt 

A proportion of 1 part salt to 12-15 parts of crushed ice is 
about right for freezing creams. The ice must be broken fine 
enough so it melts evenly and goes down around the freezing 
tub easily. Much ice can be saved by salting the ice in the tub. 

A speed of about 90 to 95 revolutions per minute of the 
machine is considered the most suitable. 

To freeze the cream, fill the freezing tub around the can 
about half full with the crushed ice, add a layer of salt, then 
use alternate layers of ice and salt until the tub is filled. The 
salt will gradually work down and promote the freezing. If 
the mixture is properly cooled before putting in the freezer, 

279 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



only 15 to 18 minutes' time should be required to freeze the 
cream ; ices and sherbets take longer. Care must be taken to 
have the ice properly crushed ; large pieces not only retard 
freezing, but often cause dents in the freezing cans, and holes 
eventually appear in these dents, allowing leaks likely to spoil 
a whole batch of ice cream. It should be kept in mind that it 
is the brine which does the freezing. Leaky tubs or ill-fitting 
bungs often let out the brine and retard the freezing. The ice 
which has been used for freezing should not be used to freeze 
a second batch, as it loses strength. But it may be used for 
packing frozen creams by mixing with some fresh ice and salt. 
This is the better way. Too rapid freezing often causes loss 
of volume, also a granular texture. Over freezing also results 
in loss of volume, because the "swell" goes down, and often 
causes small grains of butter to form in the cream. 

Too much salt is as great a fault as too little, as with too 
much salt the cream freezes too quickly, causing loss in "swell" 
and a granular texture. 

In the freezing of the cream, the ice cream mixture is 
beaten to lightness by the agitator, and at the same time the 
mixture freezes and gains volume. This point of freezing 
requires close attention, as the frozen cream should be removed 
from the freezer and poured into the packing can, or, where 
only one batch is to be frozen the agitator may be taken out 
and the frozen cream left in the freezing can to harden. If 
the freezing should be continued it would cause loss of vol- 
ume, the cream would harden, the swell caused by incorporat- 
ing air would go down. By transferring the frozen cream at 
the right time, repacking it and letting it harden in the can, 
the volume is retained. If ice cream is stirred or handled after 
it is partly hardened it will lose bulk. For this reason it is 
more profitable, if outside orders are taken, to fill the freshly 
frozen cream in the packing cans and let it harden in them. 

BINDERS AND FILLERS IN ICE CREAMS 

Binders and fillers will act at the same time as a stabilizer, 
give body to the frozen cream by preventing the formation of 
small ice crystals, prevent granulation and coarseness, and 
keep the frozen creams in good condition for several days. 

280 



CAKES ioi: i:.\ki:i:s 



There are a number of preparations in the market — ice cream 
powders, cream thickeners, etc., and the firms selling these 
goods give directions how to apply them. Of all these goods 
mentioned, gelatin takes the first place, and for this reason 
it is almost universally favored by ice cream makers. Only 
the best grades should be used, low grades having a gluey 
odor which easily affects the flavor of pure cream. All gela- 
tins art- slightly acid, hence require careful handling. It' 
overheated in milk or cream they are likely to curdle the 
cream. This may be prevented by soaking the gelatin in cold 
water sufficiently to dissolve it when warmed. Dilute the mix- 
ture by adding sugar or Byrup, then Btir and strain this solu- 
tion into the ice cream mixture. Adding gelatin gives a smooth 
texture to creams and prevents the forming of ice crystals, 
!>ut if used in too large quantities it causes the cream to be- 
come sticky, or pasty. Gelatin is used in the proportion of 

about 1 ounces in a 10-quart batch of cream. Soak and dis- 
solve in as much water as it will absorb, warm and dissolve 

gently, add i ounces sugar, stir and dissolve, strain this on 

the read] cream, which contains sugar, stir and mix thor- 
oughly before freezing. 

SIMPLE SYRUP 

This syrup can be easily made in any quantity. It is made 
by dissolving 12 pounds sugar in 1 gallon water. Sugar and 
water may be simply mixed with warm water to dissolve per- 
fectly, then strained through cheesecloth to have it perfectly 
clear. The less the syrup is heated in the making, the better 
it will be. A slightly heavier syrup is made from 14 pounds 
sugar to the gallon of water, and 1 pound of the sugar may be 
replaced by 1 pound glucose, to be dissolved with hot water. 
This syrup is used in the bakery for washing or glacing buns 
as soon as they are taken from the oven, and is best applied 
with a soft brush. 

SUGAR BOILING DEGREES 

Candy makers use the thermometer for high cooked goods 
and the saccharometer or syrup gauge for syrup used for crys- 
talizing candies. The thermometer does not register low 

281 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cooks, such as 220 degrees, accurately, so the syrup gauge 
gives better satisfaction. 

Degrees of Degrees of 

Numeof Degrees Thermometer Saccharometer 

Syrup— Small Thread 218 to 220 32 to 33 

Large Thread 228 to 230 35 to 37 

Blow 230 to 240 38 to 40 

Soft Ball 242 to 244 42 to 45 

Hard Ball 250 to 255 Boiling sugar _ after 

o n ri i o/»a more than 45 de- 

Small Crack 260 grces becomes too 

Hard Crack 285 to 315 dense for the syrup 

/~i i ooa 4-^ ocr\ gauge, therefore, un- 

Caramel 320 to 360 reliable. 

Sugar is from pearl to thread for syrup, blow and feather 
for crystallization and conserves, ball, crack and caramel for 
candy and spun sugar work. 

There are other definitions for boiling, such as catch or 
soft ball, small soft ball, large ball, soft crack, snap, hard 
crack, medium crack, high crack — all are used to denote the 
different degrees. 

Finger Test 

The other way of testing without the thermometer, using 
the finger, a stick of wood or wire or skimmer, may be fol- 
lowed. 

Small Thread: When the syrup has boiled for some time, 
dip tip of finger or stick in the syrup and test between the 
thumb and forefinger. If it can be drawn into a fine thread 
which breaks if drawn out, it has reached the proper degree. 

Large Thread: Continue boiling and try as before until 
the thread can be pulled without breaking to the full spread 
of the fingers. 

Blow Degree: Dip a skimmer or a wire bent into a loop, 
blow through the holes ; if bubbles appear it has reached this 
degree. 

Soft Ball: Dip finger in cold water or use stick, then in 
the boiling sugar and quickly back into •he water. Try the 
sugar. If it can bo formed into a soft small ball it has reached 
the degree which is used for cooking sugar for fondant or for 
marshmallow. 

282 



( AKES POR BAKERS 



Hard Boil: A little more boiling, with the same test, will 
form a harder and larger ball. 

Small Crack: Boiling is continued. If when tested the 
sugar breaks with a slight crack or bites hard and does not 

Stick to the teeth, it has attained the small eraek. 

Hard Crack: IT sugar breaks short and crisp with a snap. 
it is at tin- hard crack degree. 

Caramel: In a few moments the sugar will turn quickly 

and take on a golden yellow color; this is the caramel degree. 
At this stage it is used for fancy sugar work, nougat, spun 
sugar, web sugar, handles for baskets and other work, it 
should he taken oil' the fire at once when it reaches this stage, 

and the kettle set in cold water for a moment to quickly stop 
more boiling. If boiling is continued the sugar will turn a 
dark brown and smoke and hum. At this stage it is used for 
Coloring. Water is added and it is boiled into a syrup which 
keeps indefinitely if bottled for use. 

Information about sugar work, candy making, ice creams 
and syrups for soda fountains is given in "Candy for Des- 
sert." hv Paul Richards. 



283 



XVII. PREPARING CAKES 
FOR SALE 



In the large cake bakeries, which confine their business to 
a small variety of cakes, the baked cakes are placed in racks 
or shelves to cool. The lighter varieties are made ready at 
once ; the box cakes are frosted and cut, wrapped and placed 
in cartons ready for shipping. The richer grades of pound 
cakes and fruit cakes are wiped with a cloth and wrapped in 
waxed paper. The heavy, rich grades of fruit cakes, also 
Christmas cakes, which improve with age, are often baked 
several weeks before the holidays. The baking paper is left 
on the cakes, and the cakes are wrapped in waxed paper. A 
stamp is used to denote the day of baking. 

The retail baker is obliged to produce a larger variety of 
cakes, large and small, and I give here an outline of how one 
successful retail baker prepares his cakes for sale. This 
baker has quite a large trade in block cakes. Many of the 
cakes are baked in blocks. When baked they are about 1*4 
inches thick; two blocks are put together with a half-inch- 
thick layer of marshmallow filling, making a block about three 
inches thick. The cakes are frosted and put in pieces. 

Angel Food Cakes are baked in three sizes. Round cakes 
are baked in the usual forms with a center tube. A 2-quart 
size is scaled 15 ounces and frosted with white vanilla. The 
cakes are placed on paper plates. A chocolate angel cake of 
the same size is frosted with chocolate and sells for the same 
price. Another cake is baked in a tin 19x11 , / 4xl , /-> inches, 
with straight sides, and scaled about 2% pounds. Two of 
the baked cakes are put together with marshmallow, finished 
on top with vanilla frosting. The cakes are placed on paper 
on boards of white wood, and in the store these blocks are cut 
in ten pieces. The baker has made a frame of white tin, the 
exact size of the cakes or blocks, which divide or marks each 

284 



CAKES I-oi: BAKERS 



block in ten even slice.-; also one for a larger Bize pan l v > x 2 r» x 1 
inch for large Bheet blocks, which makes L8 cuts. This makes 
it easy for the sales people to cut the cakes exactly and 
quickly. 

Orange Cakes are made in two sizes. Small cakes are 
baked in a pan with top S 1 j,x4% inches, bottom 8x •' > > :, ; ; inches, 

•J 1 -j inches deep. Large blocks are baked in the same size 

tins as the angel Mocks, scaled about -'•_, pounds, two put 

together with marshmallow, finished, iced and cut in the 

same Bizes as tin- angel blocks. The small orange cakes are 
very popular. These cakes are scaled about 11 ounces; are 

flavored with orange rind, ami are frosted with a thin frosting 

made of thi' juice and flavored with the rind of the oranges. 

Sunshine Cake is baked in round tins, the same as angel 

cake tins, ami scaled about 9 ounces. The cakes are flavored 
with the grated rind and juice of lemon and frosted with 
lemon-flavored frosting. 

Devil's Food Cake is baked in pans of the same size as the 
angel cake tins, with the difference that the pans are lined 
with white wood, '■'■■■ inch thick on sides and ends, then lined 
with paper. The baked cakes, which are scaled 2\ t pounds 
in each pan, are put together in blocks with marshmallow 
and frosted in chocolate; a few chopped nuts are sprinkled 
on top, or the top is made in marble fashion — each pan to 
make 10 cuts. A straight sided pan, 18x25x1 '/j. inches, is also 
used ; two sheets are put together as above, producing 18 cuts. 

Walnut Cakes are made up in blocks the same as the 
devil's food, put together with marshmallow which contains 
a few ground nuts; the top is frosted white and sprinkled 
with chopped nuts. Cut in 10 pieces. 

Chop Suey or Tutti Frutti Cakes are made up in blocks 
the same as the nut cakes. Two sheets or blocks are put 
together with maple marshmallow, frosted with caramel or 
maple-flavored frosting, with a few nuts sprinkled on top, 
and cut in 10 pieces. 

Neapolitan Cakes are made from a yellow layer cake mix- 
ture, baked in straight-sided papered pan 19x25xli/ 2 inches. 
One sheet is colored with chocolate, and three sheets (the 
chocolate in the center) are put together. The fillings are 

285 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



varied frequently — creams, jelly and white or maple marsh- 
mallow are used for filling; the top is frosted with white 
lemon-flavored frosting; a pan is made into 18 cuts. 

A variety of white and yellow poundcakes are made ; baked 
in pans which hold about 3*4 pounds cake dough. The pans 
are lined with white wood, made of a size 18x7x3 inches, with 
double paper or asbestos on bottom. The cakes -are usually 
frosted on top with a delicately-flavored frosting. A pan of 
this size is made into 6 cuts. 

An Electric-Lighted Cake 

This cake was baked in the Altstadt Langlas establishment 




c-I.ijjhted 

286 



I AKES I <>i: BAKERS 



at Waterloo, Iowa. Graduating in a total height of fifty-six 
inches from the bottom layer forty-four inches square to the 
top layer six inches square, it made an imposing appearance. 




287 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



The bottom layer was made of the old English fruit cake, and 
the rest of the layers out of silver, Creole fruit and golden loaf 
fruits. The total weight of the cake was five hundred pounds. 
The electric tapers used for illumination are a particularly 
attractive feature. 

A Heart-Shaped Wedding Cake 

This beautiful heart-shaped wedding cake was a triumph 
of Strand Brothers Bakery, Monmouth, 111., produced while 
Al. Stillmaker was engaged in pastry demonstrations there. 
Mr. Stillmaker did the decorations, while the cake was made 
by Oscar Strand. The very best silver cake recipe was fol- 
lowed in mixing the cake. The completed production was 
about three feet in height, forty-two inches in diameter at 
the base and tapering up to the topmost tier, which measured 
about ten inches. Each of the five layers of cake was five 
inches high, the base being a "dummy" also elaborately dec- 
orated. Along with the wedding cake proper three hundred 
individual cakes were made, which may be seen ranged around 
the base of the big cake. Each of these small cakes was fin- 
ished with a rose. The design of the decorations on the cake 
and base is quite plainly illustrated in the photograph, which, 
however, does not do justice to its shapely beauty. 

Soldiers' Christmas Cake 

This unique cake was made by the Peter Kern Co., Knox- 
ville, Tenn., for a Christmas celebration at the U. S. Govern- 
ment Sanitarium, Johnson City. 

The large center cake was made of white cake batter, 
some twenty-two inches in diameter and twelve inches high, 
weighing, before iced, about twenty-five pounds; the ten star 
shapes around the base were also of white cake batter. The 
cake, when completed, weighed about forty pounds and was 
about thirty-two inches in diameter. 

The thousand patients were represented by the 1,000 
figure in the center of the top of the cake; these numerals 
were outlined with tapers in the national colors, arranged 
alternately. Above the tapers in white lettering, highlighted 
with gold bronze was the phrase, "To the world's bravest"; 

288 



CAKES MM; BAKERS 




289 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



below the figure was the wording "Christmas Greetings." 

The inner circle of decorations consisted, of holly leaves 
with red berries in relief icing, the leaves being in green; 
the space on both sides of this circle was filled with little 
forget-me-nots, more than one thousand in number — one for 
each patient. 

The outside border was in relief, made with a larger star 
tube. The ten small cakes surrounding the base were made 
in star shape and iced in white, decorated with red roses and 
silver leaves; these were to represent the star of Bethlehem. 
In the openings of the star-shaped cakes were placed red 
candles, ten in number, each candle representing a regiment of 
100 soldiers. Standing at the base of each red taper was a 
small angel with an instrument — the heavenly choir that 
sang the song of "Peace on Earth, Good Will to Men." Sus- 
pended between the large candles were ten Christmas bells. 
To the right and left of the outlined figure 1,000 was a little 
Cupid, "the god of love," which was heralding the day when 
peace should reign in place of war. 

Washington's Birthday Cake 




290 



CAKES mm; bakers 

This cake top design for Washington's Birthday cakes may 
be worked out very attractively in the following simple 
scheme: On a white background outline the figure in choco- 
late, and the hatchet in red The tree can be chocolate colored 
or green. All other lines should be in light green. 

The large dots around the edge of the cake top are to rep- 
resent cherries and can be done in wi\ coloring or mad,' with 
the real cherries. 

On a chocolate background, the figure can be done in white 
or light green. Outline the hatchet in red and put the tree 
decorations on in green. 

Sixty-eight pounds of fruit cake were used altogether, each 
layer being formed of two cakes. The whole was decorated 




elaborately with egg icing, and the basket and roses which 
ornamented the top were made of boiled sugar, prepared as 
for stick candy. 



291 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





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A BEAUTIFUL, IOWA CAKE 

This artistically decorated fruit cake was made at the Federal Bakery in Fair- 
Held, Iowa. It stood 24 inches high and weighed 48 pounds when iced. 
Made l>> (i. \V. Opell of the <i. W. Opell Co.. Vin.ennes. Ind. 



2!>2 



CAKES POR BAKERS 




Wedding Cake, Original Design by Joseph A. Lambetl 

293 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



MISCELLANEOUS 

In some of the white cakes, cherries are added, about 2 
ounces of cherries cut in halves or quarters for each pound of 
cake batter. Others contain citron, or sultanas. The frosting 
used on the different cakes is made to suit, adding a few 
finely-cut cherries, citron, or sultanas to the icing. 

The large fruit cakes, block fruit cake, raisin poundcake 
and citron cake are sold by the pound or by the cut. The 
best grades, sold by the pound, are covered with a well- 
flavored thick frosting. Some other cakes are sold plain. 
Frosting cakes sold by the pound are the most profitable, for 
the reason that one pound of frosting or sugar costs less than 
one pound of rich cake. For these cakes a size pan is used 
which allows for cuts in even pounds; this prevents loss in 
sales. Some of the fruit cakes are cut in halves and the cut 
side exposed to show the fruit and grain of the cake. This 
method is also followed with various other cakes, white, light 
yellow fruit cakes and poundcakes. 

Some of the cakes may be cut and wrapped in 1-pound 
packages, using transparent paper. The cakes are sealed with 
fancy stickers and tied with small ribbon — candy-box fashion. 
This makes a very attractive package to take home. 

Fancy Cakes 

Quite a variety of fancy cakes are made up in different 
shapes, using a solid mixture to which are added nuts or 
almonds ground fine. Chocolate and nut cakes are baked in 
hoops to hold 1 pound of the cake batter. These cakes are 
baked the day before using; the next day they are split 
through and put together with nut cream, mocha cream or 
chocolate. The same creams are used on the sides, and the 
sides are rolled in chopped roasted nuts, or border piped on 
the frosted cakes, or the cake is decorated with some halves 
of nuts or almonds; or a cherry with angelica leaf decora- 
tion is put in the center. The same mixtures are baked in 
sheets in a pan with straight sides, the same as Neapolitan 
cakes. Two pans are put together with jelly, marshmallow 
or cream fillings ; each pan is cut in 18 pieces about 2*4 inches 
wide, 21/4 inches high, 6 inches long. Each piece is fully 

294 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



frosted, some in chocolate others white or pink, and the 
cakes are decorated with nuts or cherries, some of them fin- 
ished with butter cream, etc. From the same cake square, 
cakes are made and put together with various fillings. For 
some cakes a meringue is used, spread on the side and top; 
the cakes are sprinkled with nuts or cocoanut and then put 



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in the oven jusl long enough to color meringue and nuts a 
delicate brown. 

Other Layer ('akrs are made in a large variety; white 

and yellow layers are filled with various fillings and frosted 




Fancy Layer Cake 

in different flavors and colors in accordance with the fillings, 
which gives the patrons quite a choice. The layer cake tins 



295 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



are made with straight sides. Eight-inch layers are scaled 
about 10 ounces. 

Small loaf cakes, such as Duchess Cake, made from the 
well-known mixtures, are baked in papered 1-pound bread 
tins, scaled about 1 pound, frosted in white, caramel or maple 
frosting, with a few chopped nuts or some browned cocoanut 
sprinkled on top. 

Chocolate rolIs~are filled with marshmallow. Maple rolls, 
made of yellow mixture, are filled with a brown maple 
marshmallow. These rolls are usually made the day before 
using, to let the marshmallow set; they are cut in 6 pieces, 
each cut frosted with chocolate or maple frosting, placed on 
paraffin paper, 12 cuts on each pan. 

Cup Cakes 

Cup cakes are made from light and dark mixtures. Lunch 
cup cakes are frosted with orange frosting; dark cups or spice 
cups are frosted in chocolate. Some of the light cup cakes 
are frosted with white vanilla icing, and some of them are 
sold plain, without being frosted. This policy of finishing 
the cakes attractively is followed also with other cakes. 

This bakery carries also a nice assortment of small fancy 
cakes and pastries which sell rapidly ; they are made from the 
best materials and make a fine display. Quite a good many 
orders for cakes for special occasions, such as parties, wed- 
dings and birthdays, are taken, and such cakes are exposed at 
the counter for show or as an advertisement. 

During the holiday season, quite a number of large layer 
cakes are sold. These are made up in 9- or 10-inch layers; two 
layers are put together, frosted, and decorated with a simple 
decoration, greeting, etc. For Washington's birthday white 
layer cake is decorated with a bunch of cherries. A stem of 
angelica is inserted in candied cherries; leaves are also made 
of angelica. Christmas cakes are fixed in holly fashion, mak- 
ing a spray of angelica and red wintergreen candy berries. 

Displaying Small Goods 

The small cakes, such as lady fingers, macaroons and 
cookies, are always packed in symmetrical order on papered 

296 



I AXES FOR BAKERS 

white tin pans. They are stacked in pyramid fashion, which 
gives a nice appearance. The pans are refilled and rearranged 
if a part of the cakes are Bold, t«> make them always look their 
In packing tin- lady fingers, each layer is sifted over 
thinly with Borne fine icing-sugar to make them look best. 
This method of packing and sugaring is also used for fried 
. jelly balls and doughnuts. 

The yeast-raised Bweet goods air also carefully finished. 
Scones and tea biscuits an- washed with a good yolk of 
wash, which gives them a rich appearance. Some of these 

- are washed with a syrup to give a good gloss, ('roam 

pull's, chocolate eclairs and other pastry are made up in a 
large variety. 

There art- quite a Dumber of other goods, not named here, 

but this will give yon an idea of what can he done towards 

keeping up the quality and getting the price for it. It may 

be added that all goods should be marked with neatly printed 
cards, giving the name of the goods and the prices they sell 

for — by the piece or by the do/en. This practice makes the 
patrons familiar with the names of the different products as 

well as their prices. It facilitate.- selling in the rush hours, 
for customers know just what to ask for, and just the amount 
they must expect to pay for the goods. 

All bakery goods are put up in specially made paper fold- 
ing boxes, made to fit the different sized cakes, so they may 
be carried home without crushing. The goods are frequently 
advertised in the local papers and special sales are announced, 
at which certain cakes are sold at a lower price at a certain 
day or hour. This brings many patrons who also buy other 
goods. The varieties of cakes are frequently changed, to have 
something different, or different looking, on display; this 
attracts buyers. 

CAKE MAKING AND CAKE BAKING DON'TS 

Buying Materials 

Don't change materials used in cake making too fre- 
quently. By keeping to the same grade of materials the 
goods can be turned out with more uniform results. If you 

297 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



change the flour it may require a change in the recipe to 
conform with the different properties. 

Have on hand different kinds of sugar, such as granulated, 
standard, powdered and XXXX icing sugar and one or two 
grades of brown sugar. 

Standard powdered sugar makes the best soft cakes be- 
cause it is more easily blended with the other ingredients, 
mixes quicker and dissolves, prevents overbeating or over- 
heating the mixture, and gives a better appearance to the 
cakes. 

If possible have a uniform cost price for materials by 
contracting for and laying in butter and eggs in the spring 
or early in the summer, or by buying and placing them in 
cold storage. 

Butter and Other Shortenings 

Don't use any bad butter. Butter takes up any odor 
easily, and some of the low grade butter becomes rancid 
more readily, and often acquires a fishy odor if kept in stor- 
age. The shortening should consist of good butter or a neu- 
tral fat, especially in making poundcakes. 

In selecting butter, care should be taken to choose a qual- 
ity having a good heavy body and free to a certain extent 
from salt and water, so that the creaming up produces the 
proper lightness in the cake. This applies also to other fats. 
There are various grades of neutral fats and compounds on 
the market, but they are not all suitable for cake work. Best 
results are obtained from a fat which contains a very small 
amount of water and has a flexible, waxy feeling. 

In bakeries where butter is used with other fats, a good 
method is to blend butter and the other shortening in the 
dough mixer. This is best done by first placing the butter in 
a warm place to soften down to the consistency of the other 
fat, then mixing both fats. This will produce a uniform fat 
and make it better for creaming. In warm weather a firmer 
compound may be added to the butter. 

The proportion of butter and other fats may be changed 
as the prices permit. When using good butter, 

298 



I'AKKS V\m UAKKRS 



Don't use any other strong flavor to spoil the good flavor 
of butter. 

Don't forget to add Bait if using a compound or neutral 
fat. Salt brings out the other flavors used and makes the 
cake more palatable. 

Naturally, If using butter which contains salt, less salt 
must be used in the goods, and the amount must be left to 
the discretion of the baker. Usually from I g ounce to :! ( 

ounce of salt may be used with every pound of saltless fats. 
Temperature of Materials 

Don't think that any old temperature may be used in 
mixing. Keep material- cool. Keep butter and other shorten- 
ing at a temperature of 15 to 55 degrees Fahr.; such a tem- 
perature is desirable tor fats and eggs. 

In creaming by hand or machine too much heat or a 
higher temperature is likely to make mix get heavy and 
curdle. Too cold milk also may cause curdling. If a mixture 
starts to curdle a small quantity of flour beaten in will help 
to restore it — it will cream up better. 

Don't guess in compounding a cake mixture. Be exact 
in weighing- and measuring ingredients. Remember that 
conditions and material vary, and often a failure is caused by 
lack of knowledge. 

Don't fail to cream your shortening and sugar or shorten- 
ing and flour light enough, before adding the eggs; and when 
adding eggs, add them as fast as they can be taken in with- 
out overheating them at this stage. Then add flour without 
over-mixing. 

If using large quantities of milk and water, don't add it 
all at one time. Add a portion of the flour, cream that in well, 
then add part of the milk, then add the rest of the flour, 
then the rest of the milk. It makes quite a difference in the 
appearance of the cakes if this care is exercised. 

In scaling off or dropping out cakes be exact. If any of the 
mixture is left don't divide it between the rest of the cakes, 
rather make a small cake of it to obtain extra money for it. 

Don't count your eggs, weigh or measure them. This 
method is better for regular work. 

299 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Don't over-flavor your cake ; be careful with flavoring. 

Don't use a baking powder because it is cheap. Use the 
best on the market, or make your own baking powder. 

Don't use cheap spices; use the best. 

Don't neglect to scrape down the sides of the bowl when 
mixing or when filling out the mixture. If scrapings are left 
to the last they will show in the cakes, causing imperfections 
in the texture. 

In mixing cakes by the flour batter method and beating 
up egg with or without sugar separately, don't beat the eggs 
too light, only fairly light, or they will lose strength. Also, 
use less baking powder — less than when using the sugar and 
butter cream process. 

Don't neglect your oven. Watch the oven heat and note 
the time it takes to bake the different goods, because uneven 
baking causes as much trouble as uneven mixing. 

Don't forget that the larger the cakes are, the more 
portection they require in baking (in the way of wooden 
frames and thick layers of paper) ; also that for small cakes 
a higher degree of heat may be used than for the larger 
cakes. 

In making cakes which are sold by the cut, pound or 
slice, try to use a tin which makes cuts of a certain size, so 
there are no trimmings to cause waste. 

Don't disturb large cakes in the oven until they are prop- 
erly set. Always set your cakes in an even and straight 
position to prevent them from baking lop-sided, a condition 
which may be caused by uneven oven bottom. 

Don't make too many kinds of cakes all the time, but 
change varieties occasionally to be in accord with the season. 
A small variety of cakes is easier to make, can be produced 
with less waste, and it is easier to train help to make them 
right, and to watch the materials. 

Don't try to make too cheap a cake. The cake must be 
good, — not only good enough. Try to turn out better quality 
than bakers generally make. Many economies may be prac- 
ticed without lowering the quality of the cake. 

Don't think you can hold trade by starting to make a 

300 



CAKES loi: BAKERS 



fust-class product, ami then lowering the grade. Rather hold 
up the quality and raise the price or change the size. 
Don't sell below cost. Make a profit on everything you 

Bell, but be satisfied with a small profit. 

Don't forget that thought ami system in working the 

various cakes saves money and fuel. By baking oil' the cakes 

which require a strong heat first, the oven will he suitable for 
the larger and richer cakes. 

Don't l«'t a high-priced man do work that a hey can do — 
it is not economical. 

Selling Cakes 

Don't forget to display- your goods always to best advan- 
tage. Never let your window display or your showcase have 
a rundown sort of appearance. Always keep your goods 
exhibited in an attractive manner. Have the shop and 
shelves as well as the goods invariably neat and clean and 
inviting. Change your display frequently, so it has always 
an appearance of freshness. Avoid sameness — always have 
something different. Small cakes should he packed in sym- 
metrical order on papered white tin pans slacked in pyramid 
fashion, and the pans refilled and rearranged if a part of the 
cakes are sold. Pains should also be taken to set out other 
varieties of cake to the best advantage. 

Don't neglect to mark your goods with neatly printed 
price cards giving the names they go by and the price they 
sell for. It facilitates selling in the rush hours, for customers 
know just what to ask for and just the amount to be paid for 
the different goods. Price cards are silent salesmen. They 
make the patrons familiar with the names of the different 
goods as well as their prices. 

In selling such goods as cream goods, which are apt to 
sour, if any are returned make good the loss. It will hold 
your customers. Remember, "the patron is always right." 

Don't be a stay-at-home. Visit other cities and bakeries 
to see and learn from others. Don't think you know it all. 
Keep an open mind, learn from others, and adapt the better 
way to your business wherever you can. 

301 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



ORNAMENTAL WORK 

A large decorated cake or a fancy window piece is always 
an attraction — especially if surrounded by a nice assortment 




of smaller fancy cakes skillfully arranged. The retail baker 
has the best opportunity to introduce new cakes to his cus- 

ao2 



CAKES l-ni; BAKERS 



t< 'iiR-rs. Something now and appetizing always attracts; it is 

a greal Belling force, which attracts and holds new trade. 

A Dumber of window show pieces are illustrated, several 
lo^- cabin display pieces, and a variety of Christmas cake 

tops. 

Large display pieces can be math' with little expense, 

using a dummy made of wood, tin or cardboard (or other com- 
bination), it" only intended for display. These pieces keep 




well, and may be changed as occasion requires. There is such 
a large variety of smaller fancy cakes that the display may 
be changed and something different may be exposed for sale 
every day. A little care and time devoted daily to the display 
will prove of great value and stimulate the trade. It takes 
initiative and some effort to introduce something new, but 
it has been our experience that novelties and specialties and 

303 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



a frequent change in the goods are sure to bring results — 
not immediately, but gradually. 

Small cakes, such as layer cakes, made with various fillings 
and icings, are good sellers, and the variety of fillings and 
icings is so extensive (as may be seen in the special chapter 
on Icings and Fillings) that almost continuous changes of 
very attractive cakes can be made. Layer cakes of all kinds, 
made of white, yellow and dark mixtures, crumb cake, spice 
cake, chocolate cake and other cakes, put together in com- 
bination with one or several fillings made into one, if com- 
bined suitably, produce a variety of changes which are often 
highly appreciated by the public. Monotonous sameness of 
cakes, fillings and frostings is not conducive to large sales; 
and while it may be necessary to increase the price of deco- 
rated cake, it need not be too high to attract buyers. 

Nuts may be used sparingly, or may be mixed with 
browned cake crumbs for use on the sides of the cakes. White 
and chocolate fondant may be used for a thin covering ; butter 
creams may be made less expensive by adding some good 
neutral nut butter. Most all cakes look better if their edges 
and sides are covered with chopped browned cocoanut or 
almonds, or coated with a thin jelly or syrup and covered with 
white cocoanut. The top finishings may be made plain in 
various colors, and trimmed with contrasting colors. Some 
of the cakes may be decorated with a little piping, others 
finished with chopped nuts or halves of nuts, or trimmed with 
pieces of cherries, angelica or jelly piping. 

Meringue and Almond Paste Decorations 

For large special tart cakes and how to finish them, see 
chapter on Special Layer Cakes and Tart Mixtures. Meringue 
and almond paste decorating make another pleasing variety; 
a stiff meringue for spreading on top and sides, with decora- 
tion of border and scrolls, using star tube, is quickly executed, 
leaving some open spaces in the center and between the 
scrolls; the sides may be sprinkled with chopped nuts. The 
cake should be put in the oven, setting it on a board, just 
long enough to color nicely. When the cake has cooled, the 

304 



CAKES POR BAKERS 



as are Riled in with jelly or fondant, or with a center 
of cherries and angelica. 

Almond paste, made like the fancy macaroon paste (given 
in another place) constitutes a very fine eating decoration, 

and may be made to look as appetizing as it tastes. The paste 
may be spread on the sides of the cake and roughened with 

a fork. Tin- border may be made in scroll shape, the renter in 





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lattice fashion, then lightly browned in the oven. When cold 
the panels may be filled with jellies, fondant or chocolate, and 
finished in various styles. 

There are many ways of decorating cakes, and the fashions 
are changing frequently. The suggestions given about decor- 
ating small cakes can be more elaborately applied for the 
larger cakes. In the chapter on tart cakes and layer cakes, 
the object in decorating has always been kept in mind. These 

305 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cakes are decorated so that there is nothing on the cakes that 
interfere with their eating quality. But there are styles of 
cakes (especially the wedding cakes) where this line is not 




drawn very closely, and artificial helps, such as gum paste 
ornaments and figures, artificial flowers, leaves, etc., are used 
for beautifying. These artificial ornaments are a great help 
to the less accomplished decorator. 




There are many branches of decorating work, such as the 
making of flowers from royal icing, gum paste, almond paste 
or boiled sugar ; gum paste work, skeleton piping and bobbinet 
work are used for making cake ornaments. Nougat and 
boiled sugar are also used for making castles, vases, or bas- 

306 



cams FOB B \Kl'i:s 



other fancy pieces are made of meringue or spun sugar. 
It is advisable that all who wish to become expert in the 
art of decorating should learn a little free-hand drawing and 
study some books of designs, of which there are quite a good 
many. To acquire skill in the handling of the various orna- 
menting tubes used for piping, a beginner may use a composi- 
tion of compound lard and flour, beating this up and keeping 
it in a cool place. This mixture may be used with a hay and 
tube, tin- same as royal icing, using a dummy form of wood, 
tin or cardboard. With the various tubes, fancy borders, 
Is, wreaths and leaves may be made, and the mixture can 
be used over and over again without loss of material. With a 
little skill and pal • will >oon become expert in this 

Cum Paste Work 

To make gum paste for ornamental work, put 1 Ounces 

yum tragacanth into a jar, cover with water and let it soak 




for 24 hours, stirring occasionally so it may dissolve. Strain 
and twist through a cloth to remove all lumps, then mix with 
2 pounds icing sugar to a smooth paste. Take one-fourth of 



307 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



this paste and mix with 2 pounds icing sugar (or part starch) 
into a pliable paste, keeping it well covered. A variety of 
ornaments can be made from this paste. Plaster of paris 
molds, sulphur molds, or rubber and tin forms, are used. The 
paste is pressed in the molds ; it dries in a short time, and 
keeps its shape well. The modeling is often done by hand, but 
such work requires much experience and practice. Flowers 
and figures are painted with colors diluted in syrup. Many 
of these ornaments are made in factories where this work is 
carried on in a practical manner. 

Making Medallions and Chocolate Centers 

Border and face casts for medallions are often made out 
of sulphur; they may also be bought from confectioners' 
supply houses. To make half casts for molding, the oiled 
object may be pressed half way down in soft plaster of paris 
and removed when the plaster hardens. But a better way to 
make such casts is to take common potters' clay, and press 
half of the object into the clay, leaving exposed only the part 
of which the cast is to be made. Brush the exposed part with 
oil, place a frame around the object and pour in the plaster. 
The plaster must be prepared quickly by sprinkling the pow- 
der in cold water, stirring at the same time, till it forms a 
thick, creamy mass; then pour it in the frame to surround 
and cover the object. For casting faces of coins and medal- 
lions, sulphur is often used. The sulphur is melted on a slow 
fire, the object oiled and the cast is made the same way as 
with plaster of paris. 

To Prepare Chocolate for Casting 

Take 2 pounds bitter chocolate, melt slowly with 1 pound 
cocoa butter, then stir in 3 pounds well-sifted icing sugar and 
some chocolate color to produce the desired shade. The molds 
must be perfectly clean and dry. Fill molds with the melted 
chocolate; let set in cool place for about two hours, then 
knock out of the molds. These may be made round, in horse- 
shoe or in heart shape, and make very nice cake centers. 
The chocolate centers are usually varnished with a gum glac- 
ing made of 4 ounces gum benzoin and 12 ounces spirits, set 

308 



CAKES POR BAKERS 









809 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





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CAKES ink BAKERS 



in a warm place, and frequently shaken until dissolved. 'Phis 
glacing is applied with a Boft brush and dries quickly. The 
different designs are decorated off the cake in many ways, in 
colors to suit. By setting the design in the center of the cake 
only a border and side decoration will be required, and the 
cakes may be quickly and effectively finished. Chocolate 
medallions are specially desirable for finishing Christmas cake, 
where only little time can be given to elaborate designs. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR LINK ORNAMENTING 

Almost everyone in the cake and fancy bakers' calling has 
had some experience in cornet work, railed in Europe, piping. 
All value the sundries related to ornamental work, which can 
be purchased from the supply houses, as they facilitate the 
decorative effect; but I think nothing looks so artistic as free- 
hand line work done by one that has practiced it to some 
extent, especially if it is done on tinted or chocolate ground. 
What I mean by tinted is royal or fondant frosting of appro- 
priate flavors and colors of light shade, such as orange, mocha 
(coffee cream), violet, pistache (pea green), rose pink and 
chocolate, light and dark. A practiced and steady hand can 
only produce exquisite results. The royal icing for such work 
must be light, yet tough. Make it with as little acid as possi- 
ble; stir it up light while it is rather heavy, and reduce it with 
a few drops of white of egg as it comes to perfect whiteness 
and lightness. Too much acid in a frosting makes coarse 
porousness, which, when forced from the comet causes the 
frequent breaks, so if you attempt this kind of work bear the 
process of making the frosting in mind ; start it pretty stout 
without acid, and beat it until it shows pretty white; then 
add the rest of whites of egg by small quantities until it 
attains the desired lightness. 

On fondant and water-frosted cakes different colored fruit 
jellies, such as apple (white and pink), currant, apricot and 
green gage, when forced through a fine flour sieve, then run 
on to the cakes with a fine cornet, between the icing designs, 
looks very rich if not overdone, also a judicious application of 
small silver dragees, or a few large, smooth sugared almonds, 
white, pink or blue, place symmetrically between the designs, 

311 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



give a very good effect ; of course, if there were one hundred 
columns written and page after page drawn, the field would 
not be exhausted, as one design is an inspiration to the next 
one, and so on, but the start is practice, experiment and perse- 
verance. These are the best teachers, with a good eye for 



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form and design. Talent needs only a hint for development. 
Around the edge of the plate there are little sketches which 
from the simplest outlines may be transformed, into a great 
variety of designs. A, b, c and d show how some straight 
lines of just plain formation, though in varied thicknesses, 
may be used to good effect. In Pig. "i" is shown how a foliage 

312 



CAKES FDR BAKERS 



effect is drawn on a scroll by starting lightly close to line and 
under steady drawing pressure swelled, then ended to a point. 
When drawing a steady line or continuous vine give e, and 



Ccht Top 




Side Bcr&er. 

f, g, h, k — hold the cornet at least three to four inches above 
the board or cake, that is, after you have started with a point 
on the object. 



SKELETON PIPING, NET AND SCROLL WORK 

Very nice decorations may be made with this kind of 
piping, but some practice in piping is required to carry out 
the designs in detail. For the making of large pieces — such- 
sis 




314 







315 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



as houses, castles, etc., and other straight-sided ornamental 
work made for the show window— combinations of nougat, 
gum paste or even supports of wood are used. The design is 
put together and covered with a thin-flowing icing, and when 



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dry the piping is done to cover the supports. The objects to 
be piped are drawn on paper and laid under glass, or a baking 
pan is heated, rubbed over with white wax or paraffin and 
dusted with icing sugar, and the objects— such as scrolls, 
lattice or other designs— are drawn on. The design is then 
piped on with bag and tube and royal icing and left on the 
sheet to harden. It may then be easily removed by warming 
the sheet lightly, or simply by a slight jar. Then the objects 

316 



CAKES POR BAKERS 




317 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




318 



CAKES POR BAKERS 




CAKES FOR BAKERS 






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320 



CAKES FOR UAKKRS 



may be set together with icing ami small ornaments fastened 
on the cake with icing. 

Bobbinel work is done in a similar way; but there is less 
danger of breakage of the designs, because a white or pink 
gauze netting is used, and the piping is done on this netting. 
For some pieces, the netting is cut close to the outlined object, 
BO as to make it invisible; for other objects it is trimmed off 
closely with the scissors after the icing is dry. Very fine lace 
work can be done to make coronets, and a number of fancy 
scrolls, rolls or cylinders can be made by piping the objects 
on the gauze. Lay it Hat on the table, then lift it quickly 




while soft, laying it on a bent tin, rolling it around a broom 
stick or rolling pin — in fact, at any angle or shape desirable. 
By having several pieces of tin bent in a variety of curves or 
angles a great many ornaments may be executed readily. 

For some kinds of work, such as large scrolls, handles of 
baskets and other work, piping on both sides is required, if 
both sides are seen. Other work, like baskets and outside 
pieces (such as roofs, etc.), requires no duplicating. The 
sides of houses, etc., which are piped in lattice fashion, are 
best made with a strong supporting edge piping, which gives 

321 



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322 



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good support to tlu- fine lattice piping. When making large 

or small scrolls to be Bet together for centers of an ornamental 
cake, these pieces are best piped on both sides; four or six 
are set together with icing - . They may be placed upright 
around a center support which is set In the (.'enter of the cake. 
Large and small "S" and "('" scrolls may be set together in 
pyramid fashion, and the top finished with a few candy 

(lowers and leaves in the form of a small bouquet. 
FLOWERS FOR DECORATING 

I- lowers for decorating are made in a variety of ways ami 
from various materials. Hand-modeled (lowers and fruits are 
made from marzipan, and Continental confectioners use vari- 
ous tools for modeling which aid greatly in the shaping of 
Rowers, leaves and fruit. Gum paste and other sweet pastes, 
also boiled sugar, are used for modeling flowers by hand. 

Flower piping differs considerably from modeling and in 
this class of work a good knowledge of piping, proper handling 
of the special type of tubes, and close attention to detail is 
required. A love for the work, coupled with patience and 
perseverance and a study of the flowers to be executed, are 
also an essential to good effects. A student should study the 
shape and number of petals, the arrangement and curve of 
leaves, also the various shades and colors and the variance in 
shape of the blossoms he is copying from bud to full bloom 
flower. While this may appear rather intricate, constant ap- 
plication and patience will bring success. 

Special sizes of flower nails and the various types of leaf 
tubes may be bought from confectioners' supply stores, and 
for some of the work the decorating on the cake, a small turn 
table is very handy to facilitate operations. The nails have 
a concave head and are prepared by coating with melted wax 
or paraffin. When the flowers are completed the nail is stuck 
in a board of soft wood, and when the flowers are dry they 
are easily removed by warming the nail. When making the 
flowers, the nail or pin is taken in the left hand, the coronet 
with icing in the right hand, and the pin is turned while the 
flower is being formed. 

For practice, flowers may be made from any composition 

323 



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that holds its shape, until proficiency is required. A still' lard 
compound mixed with flour works ^<>od in cool weather. It 
can be Bcraped off and used again. 

Royal Icing 

For good royal icing for piping one pound of XXXX icing 
sugar to three egg whites of good size, with a drop of lemon 
juice or cream of tartar, or a drop of acetic acid, may ho used. 
When making the icing, it is best to mix it up rather stiff, 
leaving out a little of the egg white. When it stands up, add 
the balance and beat until it stands up to a point and does 
not lose its shape in any position. The icing should be kept 
covered with a damp cloth to prevent drying out. 

Roses 

Commence by piping in the center of the nail a raised dot, 
using star or plain tube. Let dry a little, then with small leaf 
tube curve the first petal around this dot. giving a lifting 
motion to tube when twisting the nail, so the leaf stands up 
in rounded form. Begin the next so as to overlap the preceding 
one about one-third. This procedure is followed until about 
three or four petals have been piped on, always covering the 
ends with the following petal. Let dry a little, then again 
with a slightly larger tube put on four more petals, extending 
them a little outward. The next part of the work is the for- 
mations of the outside petals, which may be curled backwards 
before the icing sets, to give the appearance of a full-blo^ 
rose. In the piping of the half-open roses the center dot is 
drawm up more full and only a few petals are placed closely 
around to inclose it, while the outer petals are held more 
closely together. The outer leaves of the buds may be made 
with the regular leaf tube, using leaf green colored icing. 
The roses may be made in white, or very pale pink, pale yellow, 
and orange yellow. 

Sweet Peas and Pansies 

These are piped in a flat postion and may be made in colors 
in wonderful variety. If executed on the cakes the stems are 
placed in the proper position. Two colors may be used side 

331 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



by side in the coronet to produce the different shades. The 
pipe must be held at an angle starting from center of nail, 
taking an outward course returning to starting place for each 
petal. Pansies, which consist of five petals, are started by 
placing the first two petals right and left from center. The 
next two petals are placed over these in different color, but 
more to the front. The last petal, which may be of the same 
color as the first two, is placed in the opposite side. Coloring 
varies as the study of the natural flower will show. Stripes 
may be put on with a fine brush, and a center piping using 
a darker color. 

Narcissus 

These are piped with rose leaf tube same as sweet peas, 
starting from center, sweeping outwards and returning to the 
starting point, forming five or six petals in star shape. Fin- 
ishing the petals so that they underlap each other slightly, 
which can be done by holding the tube at a slight angle, bring- 
ing the finishing edge a little higher than the starting one. 
By using two colors a fine edge of orange yellow may be pro- 
duced or the body may be left white. A slightly deeper color 
of dark yellow sprinkled with a little green colored sugar 
finishes the center. 

Carnations 

Flowers with many petals which are placed over each other 
in diminishing sizes are best made by piping the outer petals 
singly on a waxed pan and letting them dry, making them 
of one color and when dry streaking them with a brush. Then 
make the center spot and pipe four or five petals upward to 
center and arrange the dried petals around. It will require 
a little practice and good patience to come gradually to an 
understanding of the handling of the tubes and just how much 
pressure is required to obtain the correct shapes. 

Flowers from Boiled Sugar 

Boil 3 pounds sugar, V2 pound glucose and 1 pint water 
to caramel degree — or 315 degrees. Turn boiled sugar on the 
slightly oiled slab and cut in pieces. Melt some of it in copper 

332 



t'AKKS FOR BAKKKS 



pan and color on the Blab, using dry paste color. This work 
must be done near the heater or over small gas stove to keep 
sugar in pliable condition. To make it bright white a part 
of the BUgar may be pulled. To make petals, take a small 
quantity from heater, first forming Hat shapes, pressing it 
between thumb and forefinger as thinly as possible and de- 
taching it as soon as it is formed with the scissors. After the 
different sizes of petals are formed, they arc fastened around 
a center which may be made of sugar or gum paste. To 
represent roses the petals are set around the center and 
fastened by heating the bottom of each over the gas stove 
and adjusting to center in the same manner as when piping 
the flours from royal icing. Tulips, calla lilies and other flow- 
ers may be shaped in the same manner. For leaves and stems 
a part of the sugar is colored green, or if branches or crown 
stems are made a little cocoa or chocolate may be mixed with 
the candy, coating wires with BUgar and twisting in the shape 
of branches or stems, on which to mount the leaves or flowers. 
To imitate nature the Rowers may be touched up and painted, 
using small soft hair brush. If it is desired to give flowers 
a crystalline appearance, a strong syrup, of 34 degrees, is 
diluted with proof spirits; this is applied to the flowers with 
a soft brush. The spirits evaporate and small cystals are 
formed, which gives the flowers the appearance of being cov- 
ered with dew. 



FINIS. 



333 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Aerating Agents l"- 

Albuim-n and Gum [cing 285 

Alexandra Cheese Tartlett.117, 118 

Alliance Tart 122 

Alliance Torte 78 

Almonds, Blanching 1*7 

Almond Bars 158, 181 

Almond Bread 153 

Chocolate L53 

Almond Huns J 14 

Almond Butter Cream 249 

Almond Cake - v . 71 

Almond Chantilly Pilling .... 269 

Almond Cocoanut Macaroons. 177 

Almond Cookies L58 

Almond Crescents 181 

Almond Half Moons. .166, L81, L92 

Almond Filled Coffee Cakes.. . 2B> 

Almond Filling 203, 219 

Almond Half Moons 166, L92 

Almond Flavor Oil 25 

Almond Kisses 194 

Almond .Macaroons 177 

Almond Marzipan Paste. .112, 305 

Almond Meringues 145 

Almond .Mocha 248 

Almond Paste Ill, 112 

Almond Paste Decoration. .86, 304 

Almond Paste Filling, Soft... 210 

Almond Paste Goods 120, 187 

Almond Short Paste Ill 

Almond Slices 183 

Almond Souffles L67 

Almond Stollen 208 

Almond Strips 163, 182 

Almond Torte r6 

Almond Wafers 163 

Almond Zwieback 216 

Altitude, Effects of 14 

Alumnettes 127 

American Cheese Filling, 

Tarts 121 

American Layer Mixtures ... 71 

American Sultana Scones 227 

American Tart Mixtures 71 

Ammonia 17 

Angel Cakes 66 

Angel Pistachio Filling 253 

Anise Drops or Fingers 166 

Anise Zwieback 216 



PAOE 

Apple Boats 116 

Apple Chantilly 116 

Apple Cream Tarts 116 

Apple Filling . . l 225 

Apple Fruit Cake 54 

Apple Jelly and Jam 271 

Apple Past lies 115 

French 115 

Apple Pie 259 

Apple Tarts 116 

French 115 

Apricot Pie 260 

Aprieotine Filling 254 

Artificial Honey 169 

Ascot Tarts 122 

Assorted Nut Cakes 87 

Baking of Puff Pastry 103 

Making Periods 22 

Baking Powder 15 

Baking Powder Tea Biscuit.. 227 

Baking Temperatures 20 

Banana Pie 266 

Bars 

Almond 158 

Cocoanut 158, 159 

Nut 158 

Bath Buns 231 

Batons Amandes 181 

Royal 127 

Battenberg Cake 85 

Berlin Filling 254 

Berlin Fruit Filling 210 

Berry Pies, Dried 258 

Fresh 259 

flinders and Fillers, Ice 

Creams 280 

Birthday Cakes 46 

Biscuits, Baking Powder Tea. 227 

Yeast-raised 197 

Bismarcks 223 

Bisque Ice Cream 275 

Black Walnut Block 34, 87 

Black Walnut Cake 87 

Blanching Almonds 187 

Block Cakes 32, 34, 87 

Blueberry Pie 259 

Boats, Apple 116 

Bobbinet Work 321 

Boiled Chocolate Icing 237 



PAGE 

Boiled Icing 237 

Boiled Sugar Decorations 332 

Bolivars 155 

Bombes Cerises 180 

Bombes Chocolate 180 

Bonne Bouchee au Chocolate.. 182 
Bonne Bouchee a la Creme. . . 182 

Borders, Paste for 107 

Boston Brown Bread 225 

Boston Cream. Pie 269 

Boston Lunch Cake 54 

Bouchee Cerises 180 

Bouchee Chocolate 180 

Bouchee Citron 180 

Bouc'hees de Dames 145 

Bouchee de Oranges 180 

Bouchee Macedoine 180 

Bourbon Condes 127 

Bowl Mixtures 57, 67, 99 

Yellow 58 

Box Cakes 27 

Standard Mixtures 32 

White 27 

Yellow 32 

Bran Cookies 157 

Bran Wafers 164 

Brandy Snaps — Wafers 165 

Braunschweiger Honey Cake.. 170 

Brazil Nut Cake. 89 

Brick Ice Creams 278 

Bride's Cake, White 42 

Bridge Buns 231 

Brooklyn Bridge Buns 231 

Brown Cookies 152, 153 

Buckinghams 128 

Bundkuchen 207 

Bun Doughs 209, 214, 230 

Spice Flavoring for 213 

Buns, Almond 213 

Bath 231 

Bridge 231 

Brooklyn Bridge 231 

Citron 214 

Cocoanut 231 

Cream 186 

Currant 213 

Hot Cross 213 

Jelly 230 

Lemon 214, 230 

Orange 214 

Peanut 214 

Pecan Butter 219 

Philadelphia Butter 219 

Pineapple 214 

Plain Sweet Dough .for.. 209 

Rice 231 

Raspberry 230 

Self-Raising Flour for... 230 

Streusel 214 

Sultana 213, 231 



PAGE 

Burnt Almond Ice Cream .... 274 

Burnt Sugar Coloring 238 

Butter 298 

Butter Buns, Pecan 219 

Philadelphia 219 

Butter Cream Cakes 146 

Butter Cream Fillings 248 

Almond 249 

Chocolate 248 

Coffee 248 

New York 248 

Vienna 248 

Butter Flavor Oils 24, 25 

Butter Jumbles 178 

Butter Rings 162 

Butter Rolls 206 

Butter Sponge Cake 64 

Bowl Mixture 64, 67 

Cold Mixture 69 

Warm Mixture 64 

Tart Cake 72 

Layers 72 

Vienna 64 

Butter Streusel 212 

Buttermilk Crullers 223 

Buttermilk Fried Cakes 222 

Butterscotch Cookies 176 

Butterscotch Pie 265 

Butterscotch Wafers 165 

Cairo Filling 253 

Cake Covering, Marzipan .... 112 

Cake Machines 20 

Cake Materials, Buying 297 

Cake Making Don'ts 297 

Cake Pans 23 

Cakes for Large Institutions. 99 

Cakes for Special Occasions.. 40 

(See also Chapter XVII.) 

Canned Fruit, for Pies 258 

Camelina Filling 253 

Caramel Coloring 203 

Caramel Filling 252 

Caramel Icing 236 

Cases, Tart and Patty Shells. 113 

Double 114 

Fried 224 

Meringue 196 

Ready-made 114 

Roman 224 

Single 113 

Cats' Tongues 162 

Champagne Strips or Wafers. 162 

Chantilly Cream Slice 184 

Chantilly Filling, Almond 253 

Charleston Filling 254 

Cheese Cake 217 

English 118 

Cheese Cake Filling, Plain... 119 

American 121 



PAC1 

• Killing ill 

ish L18 

German 121 

Cheese Tartlet, Alexandra.... 

nT. iin 

Cherrj Ca 81, 181 

Cherry Pie 

Mock 260 

Cherry Tartlets 117 

Chocolate Almond Bread 153 

Choc. Almond Cake, French.. 71 

Chocolate Block Cake 32 

Chocolate Bonne Bouchee.180, 182 

Chocolate Centers 

icoanut Macarw • 

Chocolate Cookies 158 

Chocolate Cream I lakes 72 

Chocolate Cream Pie 266 

Chocolate Cup Cake 90 

Choo late Custard Pie 

< Ihocolate 1 hrops i * ; r» 

< !hocolate Honey < lake !72 

( Ihocolate Ice < Iream J7" 

Chocolate Icing 24 

Chocolate Jumbles L61 

( !hocolate Macar ona L89 

Chocolate Macaroon Tarts. . . , 1J<> 

Chocolate Macaroon Torte..., 77 

Chocolate Medallions 244 

Chocolate Meringue 194 

chocolate Mocha 80, 212 

Chocolate Mocha Cake 81 

< Ihocolate Roll 57 

Sachi-r Mixture 71 

Chocolate Sauce, Cold 276 

Chocolate Slices is:; 

Chocolate Souffles 167 

Chocolate Sponge Cakes <;<; 

Chocolate Stock Icimr 235 

Chop Suey (Tutti Frutti i Cake 95 

Choux (Cream Buns) L85 

Choux Parcis 186 

Christmas Cakes 50, 167 

Christmas Fruit Cakes 52 

Cinnamon Sticks 166 

Cinnamon Streusel Coffee Cake 217 

Citron Buns 213 

Citron Meringue 193 

Citron Pound Cake 38 

Citronettes 123 

Cobblestones (Pflasterteine) . . 173 

Cocoanut Bars 158, 159 

Eggless 159 

Cocoanut Buns 231 

Cocoanut Cookies 157 

Cocoanut Cream Pie 265 

Cocoanut Crescents 152, 192 

Cocoanut Custard Pie 264 

Cocoanut Drops 167, 177 

Cocoanut Drop Cookies, White 160 



PAGE 

( locoanul Fingers L84 

Cocoanut Kisses 193 

H l!':; 

I locoanut Macaroons 191 

Macaroons, Almond 177 

Chocolate lifJ 

Cold Mixture L92 

Cocoanut Macaroon 'Part 120 

Cocoanut Meringue, Jellied... 193 

« locoanut Pudding 269 

l locoanut Slices L83 

Butters L60 

Coffee-Cake Doughs L99, 209 

Coffee-Cakes 216 

Almond Filled 218 

Fruit 216 

Coffee Cookies 176 

Coffee ice Cream 273 

Coffee Mocha Cream 248 

Coloring, Burnt Sugar 238 

< lolors for Icings 239 

Combination Fruit Pies 267 

Commercial Apple Jelly 272 

Commercial Cakes 35 

Cone Wafers. Ice Cream L64 

Cones. Sue. I ish Rolled L63 

Confectioners 1 Short Pastes.. 111 
Coneress Tart Fillings 119 

Cookies or Hard Cakes 150 

Machine-made 175 

Corn Syrup Cookies 179 

Cornucopias 125 

Cranberry Pie 269 

Cream Baskets 182 

Cream Buns 186 

I lakes, Chocolate 72 

Mocha 80 

Cream Drops, Vanilla 165 

< 'ream Fingers 214 

Cream Layer Cake 80 

Cream of Tartar 15 

Cream Pies, Boston 267 

Pies, Chocolate 265 

Pies, Cocoanut 264 

Pies, Fruit 257 

Pies, Washington 267 

Cream Puffs 106, 185 

Pastes for 1 05 

With Whipped Cream.... 186 

Cream Rolls 125, 214, 215 

Twisted 215 

Cream Scones 228 

Cream Slices 124, 184 

Cream Tarts, Apple 116 

Lemon 123 

Cream Wafers 164 

Crescents 126, 204 

Almond 181 

Cocoanut 152, 192 



PAGE 

Crescent Rolls 204, 215 

Croix de Malta 128 

Croquant Paste 109 

Crullers or Spritzkuchen 107 

Buttermilk 223 

Hand-made 222 

Crumb Cakes 91, 93-95 

Fruit 96 

Lincoln 99 

Molasses 9o 

Oriental Fruit 94, 159 

Washington 99 

Crumb Cookies 155, 175 

Egg-less 152 

Ginger Snaps 161 

Crumb Filling, Soft 210 

Crumb Layer Cakes 94 

Crumb Pies 99 

Crumb Rings, Spiced 162 

Crumb Tarts, Spiced 122 

Fillings 95, 119 

Crushed Fruit Fillings 255 

Cup Cakes 28, 96, 97, 296 

Cup Cakes, Chocolate 90, 97 

Crumb 94 

Crumb Spice 91 

Jellied 90 

Lunch 90 

Orange 90 

Spiced 90, 91 

Vanilla 90 

Currant Buns 213 

Custard or Pastry Cream .... 250 

Custard Pies 263 

Bottom Crust 105 

Chocolate 264 

Cocoanut 264 

Dahy Cream Pie 266 

Danish Cream Tarts 204 

Danish Pastries 200, 218 

Danish Pastry Dough 200 

Darioles 130 

Dark Fruit Bars 158 

Dark Fruit Cake 26, 38, 51 

Dark Fruit Cookies 156 

Date Pudding 269 

Decorated Shortbreads 86 

Decorating Cakes 302 

Designs (See Chapter 
XVII). 
Decorations, Meringue and 

Paste 304 

Decorative Paste, Almond, 

Marzipan 112 

Delicate Cake 29 

Demi-Lunes Amandes 

152, 181, 192 

Desdemonas and Othellos 180 

Devil's Food Cake 82 



PAGE 

Dietetic Bran Wafers 164 

Displaying Small Goods. .296, 301 

Dominoes 166 

Don'ts — Cake Baking and 

Making 297 

Doughs, Bun 209, 214, 230 

Coffee Cake Soecial. .199, 209 

Honey 168 

Rolled in Pastry 199 

Standard Sweet 198 

Yeast-raised 197 

Zwieback 209 

Doughnuts, Yeast-raised .... 223 

Dresden Torte 74 

Dried Berry Pie with Filler. . 258 

Dried Fruit, Pie Stock 257, 258 

Drop Cakes 91, 159 

Chocolate 165 

Ginger 159 

Molasses 160 

Spice 160 

Sponge 191 

lellow 160 

Drop Cookies Cocoanut 160 

Drops, Anise 166 

Chocolate 165 

Cocoanut 167, 177 

Patience 166 

Rose 165 

Vanilla Cream 165 

White 165 

Duchess Cake, White 83 

Duchess Torte 74 

Dutch Macaroons 189 

Easter Cake 291 

Easter Eggs, Meringue 195 

Eclairs 186 

Eclair Farcis 186 

Eggless Cake Mixtures 179 

Eggless Cocoanut Bars 159 

Eggless Crumb Cookies 152 

Eggless Gingerbread 93 

With Crumbs 93 

Eggless Ginger Snaps 161 

Eggless Jumbles 161 

Eggless Marshmallow Filling. 241 

Eggs and Their Use 12 

Elisen Lebuchen 171 

English Cheese Cake 118 

English Cheese Tarts 118 

English Lemon Butter 250 

English Muffins 229 

English Sultana Scones 228 

English Walnut Cake 34, 87 

Envelopes, Fruit and Cream . . 205 

Florentines 128 

Fanchonettes 130 

Fancy Cakes 294 



r\ ( .h 

Fancy Cakes, Small. .147, L65, L90 

Fancy Kisxs 1!»2 

Fancy Macaroons L89 

Fancy Macaroon Paste.. 110, L84 

Fancy Scones 228 

Fancy Slices and Strips L8S 

Fan, 126 

Fig Ban 152 

Fig Newtona 152 

Fig Padding 

Figures and Animals L9S 

Honey Dough t'<>r 174 

Patience 166 

Filbert [ce < team 2 .-> 

Filbert Meringues 193 

Filbert Tart 120 

Filled Fruit Rings 217 

Filk-d Honey Cakes 172 

Filled Rings 217 

Fillers, Ice ('ream 280 

Pie 257 

Fillings and Icings 222 

Fillings for Cakes. 83, 232,248,249 

Fillings, Household 

Filling for Honey Cakes 172 

Ready-to- F>e 239 

Fillings, Fie 258 

Fillings, feast-Raised Dough. 210 

Finger Biscuits 62 

Fingers, Almond 181, L84 

Anise L66 

Cocoanut 184 

Cream 211 

Lady 62 

Macaroon 189 

Finishing Rolls, Many Ways.. 58 
Finishing Tarts and Layer 

Cakes 73 

Flavoring of Fruit Pies 2.~> i 

Flavorings 24 

Fleurons and RoseUes 128 

Florodora Filling 251 

Floral Meringues 195 

Florence Cake — white or yel- 
low 82 

Florentines 128 

Flour, Self-Raising 16, 230 

Flours, Variation in 11 

Flour-Batter Method 18 

Flower Decorations, Making. . 323 

Fondant Making 233 

Imitation 234 

Form Cakes 207 

Freezing Ice Cream 279 

French Apple Tarts 115 

French Choc. Almond Cake... 71 

French Chocolate 71 

French Fried Cakes 102 

French Gateau Mixtures 68 

French Honey Cake 170 



l'\c. I 

French Macaroon Tart L20 

French Macaroon Torte 77 

Fiench Pastries 12-1 

Popular and Easy I'M 

Detailed Descriptions .... 1"..", 

Fresh Fruit Pies 259 

Fried Cakes 220 

Fried Cakes, Buttermilk 222 

Fiench 107, 224 

Hand-Made 222 

Machine-Made 22:: 

Vienna 222 

if east-Raised 220, 22:: 

Fried Cases 224 

Fried Spring Waffles 224 

Frozen Fruit Salad 278 

Frozen Puddings 27<i 

Frozen Punches 27s 

Fruit and Nut Filling 210 

Fruit and Nut Rolls 219 

Fruit Kars, Dark 158 

Fruit liars. Lemon 158 

Fruit Bars, Oriental 159 

With Crumbs 159 

Fruit Cakes 38, 4::, :.l 

Apple 54 

< 'hristmas 53 

Crumb 91 

Dark 38, r>i 

Heavy 38 

Light 38, 54 

Low Priced 54, 99 

Mixed 55 

Standard 52 

With Dry Milk 53 

With Molasses 53, 90 

Fruit, Coffee-Cakes 216 

Fruit Cookies 152, 154, 176 

Dark 156 

Fruit Cream Pie 266 

Fruit Crumb Cake, Oriental.. 94 

Fruit Fillings 211 

Crushed 255 

With Gelatine 255 

With Nuts 210, 211, 255 

Fruit Glacing 212 

Fruit Ices and Sherbets 276 

Fruit Jam 271 

Fruit Loaf, Molasses. . . .53, 54, 94 

Fruit, Macedoine of 278 

Fruit, Modeling 190 

Fruit Pies 258 

Combination 267 

Flavoring 257 

Fruit Salad, Frozen 278 

Fruit Sherbet 276 

Fruit Slab, Standard 34 

Fruit Tarts 118 

Fruit Puddings 269 

Fruit Rings, Filled 217 



PAGE 

Fruits, Modeled 190 

Gateaux Cerises ( Cherry 

Cakes) 181 

Gateau or Genoa Slab 68 

General Suggestions 11 

Genoa Cake 54 

Slab 68 

Sultana 55 

With Fruit 68 

Gingerbreads 91 

Crumb 93 

Eggless 93 

Loaf 93 

Raisin 93 

Southern 92 

Ginger Cakes 93 

Ginger Cookies 155, 179 

Ginger Drop Cakes 159 

Ginger Drops, Soft 160 

Ginger Nuts, Fine 153 

Ginger Poundcake 93 

Ginger Snaps 179 

To Drop Out 161 

With Crumbs, Eggless ... 161 

Glacings, Cake 212 

Fruit 212 

Macaroons Ill 

Gold Cake 33 

Golden Cake 33 

Golden Rod Cake 89 

Golden Rolls 214 

Gooseberry Pie 259 

Graham Cookies 157 

Grand Duchess Cake 83 

Gum Icing 235 

Gum Paste 109, 307 

Half Moons 166, 181, 192 

Hamburg Zwieback 215 

Hand-Made Fried Cakes 222 

Hand-Made Crullers 222 

Hand Mixing 17 

Hard Cakes 150 

Hard Fancy Cakes, Small 165 

Hazelnut (Filbert) Ice Cream 275 

Hazelnut Tart 120 

Hermits 156, 159 

Hickory Nut Cake 39 

Honey, Artificial 169 

Honey Cakes 1 68 

Braunschweiger 170 

Iced 177 

Cakes, Chocolate 172 

Cakes, Filled 172 

Filling 172 

French 170 

Macaroon 1 73 

Spice Mixture for 169 

Swiss 170 

Thick 170 



PAGE 

Honey Cookies 155 

imitation 156 

Honey Doughs 168, 169 

Honey and Sugar Doughs .... 170 
Honey Dough for Figures .... 174 

Honey Jumbles 176 

Honey Wafers 164 

Horseshoes 126 

Hot Cross Buns 213 

Hot Water Sponge Cake 64 

Household Fillings 252 

Hungarian Zwieback 216 

Ice Creams and Ices 273 

Binders and Fillers 280 

Cream Cake 39 

Cone Wafers 164 

Freezing 279 

Freezing Mixture 279 

Sandwich Wafers 164 

Standard Formulas 273 

Iced Honey Cakes 177 

Icings 232 

Albumen 235 

Boiled f 237 

Caramel 236 

Chocolate 237. 235, 238 

Choc. Icing, Medallions... 244 

Colors for 239 

Fondant 233 

Gum 235 

Maple 236 

Marble 83 

Royal 237 

Special 238 

Stock 233 

Sugarless 179 

Water 236 

White Stock 235 

Imitation Fondant 231 

Imitation Honev Cookies J^fi 

Individual Cakes, Small 90 

Invert Sue:ar Honey 169 

Irish Sodas 228 

Jam Making 270 

Jam Roll 219 

Jellied Cocoanut Meringue... 193 

Jellied Cup Cakes 90 

Jellied Pie 266 

Jellies 270 

Jelly Balls, Yeast-Raised 223 

Jelly Buns 230 

Jellv Macaroons 188 

Jellv Rinsrs 161 

Jelly Roll 56, 97 

Low Priced 99 

Jumbles 161 

Butter 178 

Chocolate 161 



Eggtoea L63 

Hone: 176 

Mixed 178 

Molasses 178 

162 

Spiced 178 

Vanilla 161 

Wafer 162 

Kernel Paste Tarts 120 

King of 

Almond 194 

Cocoanut 

• oanut, Soft 19! 

Pistachio 194 

Lady Baltimore Cake 

Lady Baltimore Pilling 251 

Lady Cake 44 

Lady Cake with Fruit 

Lady Fingers 

Large Cakes 

Layer Cakes. .56, 72, BO, B2, 

American M ixtui es Ti 

Butter Sponge ~l 

Crumb 94 

Finishing 78 

Small 28 

Special Mixtures 6*i 

Sponge 97 

White- 30 

fellow 97 

Lebkuchen, Elisen 171 

Nuremberg 170 

White 172 

Leckerle, Nuremberg 171 

Lemon Buns 214, 230 

Lemon Butter, English 250 

Lemon Cookies 154, 178 

Lemon Cream Tarts 123 

Lemon Cream Torte 76 

Lemon Filling 250 

Lemon Flavor Oil 25 

Lemon Fruit liars 158 

Lemon Ice, Standard 277 

Lemon Macaroons 188 

Lemon Pies 264 

Covered 264 

Cream 265 

Lemon Pudding- 269 

Lemon Sherbet 277 

Lemon Snans 160 

Lemon Wafers 16.°. 

Light Cookies 175 

Light Fruit Cake 54 

Lincoln Crumb Cake or Pie. . . 99 

Line Ornamenting 311 

Loaf Cakes 27, 97 

Small 28, 55 

White 29 



PAGE 

abin Cookies 156 

London Filling 254 

'riced Cakes 97 

Lunch Cakes, Boston 54 

Lunch Cup Cakes 90 

Lunch Room Rolls 59 

Macaroons L87 

Macaroons, Chocolate 189 

Chocolate Cocoanut 192 

Cocoanut 177, 192 

hutch 189 

Fancy L89 

(dazing for Ill 

Jelly 

<>n 

Orange L88 

Plain 188 

Macaroon Fingers L89 

Macaroon Hones ( ; 'ke 173 

Macaroon Pastes L09, 110 

Slices and Strips 184 

Tarts L20 

Macaroon Torte 76 

Almond Taste 120 

I Chocolate 77 

French 77 

Macedoine, Bouchee 180 

Macedoine of Fruit 278 

Machine Dropp* d Fried Cakes 223 

Machine-Made Cookies 175 

Machine Mixing 17 

Machine Sponge Cake 64 

Machines. Cake 20 

Madeira Cake 55 

Madelines 181 

Maltese Cross 128 

Maple Icing 236 

Mapleine Filling 254 

Marble Cake 28, 83 

Marble Ling 88 

Marguerite Filling 255 

Torte 75 

Marshmallow Filling 239 

Butter Cream 248 

Eggless 241 

Slices 185 

Martha Washington Pie 267 

Marzipan Paste 112 

Almond 112, 305 

Modeled Fruits 190 

Materials, Buying 11, 297 

Matei-ials, Temperature 299 

Medallions and Chocolate Cen- 
ters 308 

Meringues and Fancy Kisses. 192 
Meringue Animals and Figures 195 
Meringue Apples and Pears.. 194 
Meringue Baskets 195 



PAGE 

Meringue, Chocolate 194 

Citron 193 

Cocoanut 1 93 

Decorating 304 

Easter Eggs 195 

Filbert 193 

Floral 195 

Jellied Cocoanut 193 

Orange 193 

Meringue Pastes 107 

Heavy Boiled 109 

Hot 108 

Light Boiled 108 

Standard Cold 108 

Meringue Shells 195 

Meringue Slices 185 

Meringue Tarts 3 96 

Meringue Tart Cases 196 

Meringue Torte 77 

Metropolitan Tart 120 

Metropolitan Torte 75 

Mile Feuille 128 

Mincemeats 261 

Mock 262 

Mince Pie 261 

Mirlitons 130 

Miscellaneous Cakes 79 

Mixed Fruit Cake 55 

Mixed Jumbles 178 

Mixing, Hand or Machine. ... 17 

Mixing of Fried Cakes 221 

Mixing Pie Crusts 104 

Mocha Creams 80, 248 

Mocha Cream Cakes 80, 146 

Mocha, New York 248 

Mocha Slices 183, 184 

Mocha Torte 75 

Mock Cherry Pie 260 

Mock Mince Pie 262 

Modeled Fruits 190 

Modeling Paste 190 

Small Cakes From 190 

Molasses Cakes 91 

Molasses Cookies 154 

Molasses Crumb Cake 95 

Molasses Cup Cake 94 

Molasses Drop Cakes 160 

Molasses Fruit Loaf 53, 54, 94 

Molasses Jumbles 178 

Monte Carlos 127 

Mousseline Sauce 276 

Muffins, English 229 

Mushrooms 194 

Napoleons 1 24 

Neapolitan Cake 67, 78, 87 

Neapolitan Filling 254 

Nesselrode Ice Cream 275 

Net and Scroll Work 315 

New York Ice Cream 274 

New York Mocha Butter Cream 248 



PAGE 

Noisettes 123 

Nougat Ice Cream 274 

Nuremberg Lebkuchen 170 

Nuremberg Leckerle 171 

Nut Bars 158 

Nut Block Cakes 34 

Nut Cake Mixture for Torten 70 

Nut Cakes, Assorted 87 

Brazil, etc 89 

Nut Fillings 210 

Fruit 210 

Spiced 210 

Torten 77 

Nut Poundcakes 39 

Nut Roll 219 

Nut Roll, with Fruit 219 

Nut Slab 31 

Nut Slices 184 

Nut Torte 77 

Oatmeal Cookies 154 

Spiced 177 

Ohio Orange Cake 65 

Oils for Flavoring 25 

Open Fruit Tarts 118 

Orange Buns 214 

Orange Cakes, Ohio 65 

Orange Cup Cake 65 

Orange Flavor Oil 25 

Orange Macaroons 188 

Orange Meringue 193 

Orange Cream Torte 76 

Orange Cream Pie 265 

Orange Filling 250 

Orange Pies 265 

Orange Poundcake 38 

Orange Pudding 269 

Orange Torte, Special 76 

Orange Water Ice (Sherbet). 277 

Oriental Cocoanut Drops .... 177 

Oriental Fruit Bars 159 

Oriental Fruit Crumb Cake . . 94 

Ornamental Work 302 

Ornamenting, Line 311 

Othellos and Desdemonas 180 

Othello and Meringue Mixtures 144 

Palm Leaves 126 

Panier Chantilly (Cream Bas- 
kets) 182 

Panier en Genoise 183 

Pans for Cake Baking 23 

Parisienne Torte 75 

Parisiennes 126 

Parmesans 129 

Paste, Almond Marzipan .... 305 

Almond Short Ill 

Confectioners' Ill 

Croquant 109 

Gum 109 



PAGE 

Kernel 120 

ntacai oon ivw, no 

Making loo 

.Marzipan 1 1 _! 

Meringue LOi 

Modeling L90 

I'utr 101 

Short Ill 

Tragacanth LOU 

10/ 

for Cream Puffs LOa 

Pastillage L09 

Pastry Cream for Pilling '-■>;' 

Pastry Doughs, Danish 200 

Pilled Goods 202 

Puff, Making of LOO 

Rolled- in 199 

Swedish 202 

feast-raised 197 

Patience Drops or Figures... LOO 

Pattj Sheila LIS 

Double Case 114 

Single case LIS 

Peach Lee 277 

Peach Pie •-•'•'J 

Peach Meringue Pk 267 

Peanut Buna 214 

Peanut Cookies L57 

Peanut Slices 158 

Peach Carnival 11, 

Pecan Butter Rolls 219 

Pecan Cake ■ • 89 

Peppernuta 178, 174 

Pnastersteine L73 

Philadelphia Butter Huns. . . . 219 

Phosphate Powders lo' 

Piea and Pie Making 256 

Pie a la Mode 267 

Pie Crusts, mixing 104 

Pie Doughs, Making 10:; 

Pie Fillers 2f>«, li-",7 

Pie Fillings 258 

Pie Paste, Bottom Crusts 105 

Pie Paste, Top Crust 104 

Pie Paste, Mixing 104 

Pie Stock, Dried Fruit... 257, 258 

Canned Fruit 257 

Pineapple Buns 214 

Pineapple Cake Filling 251 

Pineapple Ice (Sherbet) 277 

Pineapple Pies 260 

Cream 265 

Mei-ingue 265 

and Strawberry Pie 261 

Piping, Skeleton 315 

Pistachio Filling, Angel 253 

Pistachio Ice Cream 275 

Pistachio Kisses 194 

Pistachio Nut Cakes 87 

Plain Sweet Dough for Buns. 209 



l-Ai.l 

Plum Puddings 2i;n 

Prosen 2 iti 

Poppy Seed Fillings 21] 

Poppy Seed Tarts 121 

Poundcakes 36, 37 

Citron 88 

Ginger ;»:'. 

Nut 39 

Old-time 36 

I hrange 38 

Plain 39 

Special 37 

Sultana 88 

White 45 

Poundcake with .Milk 36 

with Baking Powder 87 

Preparing Cakea for Sale.... 284 

Preparing Rhubarb 260 

Preserving 268 

Pressburg Zwieback 218 

Pretzels or Figures of Eighl 

L26, 219 

Prince Henry Layer Cake. . . . 82 

Princess Fruit Filling 212 

Prune Pie 258 

Puddings 26s 

Frozen 276 

Fruit 269 

Plum 268, 276 

Royal 276 

Puff Paste Making 101 

Quickly Made 102 

Trimmings 10.'! 

I'utr. Small Pastry Baking of. 100 

Pumpkin Piea 262 

Fresh and with Dry Milk. 263 

Punches, Frozen 278 

Queen Torte 74 

Quickly-made Puff Paste 100 

Raisin Coffeecake 217 

Raisin Gingerbread 93 

Raisin Pie Filling 258 

Raspberry Buns 230 

Raspberry Ice 277 

Raspberry Meringue Tart. . . . 196 

Readv-Made Cases 114 

Ready-to-Use Fillings 239 

Rhubarb Pie 260 

Preparing Filling 260 

Richelieu* 127 

Richelieu Tart 123 

Rice Buns 231 

Rings, Filled Fruit 217 

Rings, Jelly 161 

Rings, Twisted 217 

Rissoles 125, 204 

Roll Cakes 56 

Chocolate 57 



PAGE 

Finishing 58 

Lunch Room 59 

Sponge 57, 97 

Swiss 57 

Rolled-in Pastiy Dough 199 

Rolled Wafers 163, 165 

Rolls Cream 214, 215 

Crescent 215 

Golden 214 

Jam 219 

Nut and Fruit 219 

Pecan Butter 219 

Philadelphia Butter 219 

Swedish 206 

Roman Cases 224 

Rose Drops 165 

Rose Souffles 167 

Rosettes 128 

Rough-and-Readys 156 

Round Coffee Cake 217 

Royal Batons 127 

Royal Cake 79 

Royal Ice Cream 276 

Royal Icing 237. 331 

Royal Pudding 276 

"S" Jumbles 162 

Sacher Mixture, Swiss Choc. 71 

Sand Cakes 69 

Heavy Mixture 70 

Light Mixture 70 

Torten 69 

Sauce Mousseline 276 

Scotch Cookies 155, 176 

Scotch Shortbread 151 

Scones, American Sultana.... 227 

Cream 228 

English Sultana 228 

Fancy 228 

Fancy Sultana 229 

Scotch 228 

Self -Raising Flour 228 

Tea 229 

Scotch Scones (Irish Sodas).. 228 

Scrolls 203 

Scroll Work 315 

Selection of Materials 11 

Self-Raising Flour 16 

for Buns 230 

Selling Cakes 301 

Sheet Cakes 72, 93 

Sherbets, Fruit 276 

Shortbreads, Scotch 151 

Decorated 86 

Small Fancy 151 

Shortcake 97 

Biscuit Mixture 98 

Shortenings 15, 298 

Short Pastes for Tarts Ill 

Almond Ill 

Confectioners Ill 



PAGE 

Short Paste, Small Fancy 

Cakes 147, 180 

Silver Cake 27, 83 

Silver Slice 27 

Simple Syrup 281 

Single Case Patty 113 

Skeleton Piping 313 

Slab Cakes 27 

Cherry 31 

Nut 31 

Small 28, 66 

Standard Fruit 34 

White Fruit 31 

Yellow 97 

Slices, Almond 183 

Chocolate 183 

Cocoanut 183 

Cream 124, 184 

Fancy 183 

Macaroon 184 

Marshmallow 185 

Meringue 185 

Mocha 183, 184 

Nut 184 

Peanut 153 

Small Fancy Cakes 147, 180 

Modeling Paste 190 

Short Paste 197 

Small Fancy Shortbreads.... 151 

Small Goods, Displaying 296 

Small Hard Fancy Cakes 165 

Small Puff Pastries and Tarts 129 

Snails 203 

Snaps, Jumbles and Wafers.. 160 

Snaps, Ginger 161 

Lemon 160 

Soda, Bicarbonate of 15 

Sodas, Irish 228 

Soft Almond Paste Filling. . . 210 

Soft Cocoanut Kisses 193 

Soft Crumb Filling 210 

Soft Ginger Cookies 155 

Soft Ginger Drops 160 

Souffles, Almond 167 

Chocolate 167 

Rose 167 

Vanilla 165 

Southern Gingerbread 92 

Spanish Box Cake 33 

Spanish Cookies 157 

Special Butter Cream Fillings 248 

Special Cakes 40 

Special Coffeecake Doughs.209, 199 

Soecial Icings 238 

Special Layer Cake Mixtures. 67 

Special Orange Torts 76 

Special Pies 266 

Soecial Poundcake 37 

Special Tart Mixtures 67 

Spiced Crumb Rings 162 



PAQ 

Spiced Crumb Tarts 122 

Spiced ('up Cakes 

with Crumbs 91 

Spice Drop Cakes 160 

Flavoring, Buns 213 

Spiced Jumbles 178 

Spice Mixtures for Cakes. .26, 169 
Spiced Molasses Fruit Crumb 

Cake 

Spiced Nut Filling 210 

Spiced Oatmeal Cookies 177 

Sponge < lake 60 

Butter Sponge <14 

Chocolate Sponge, Bowl 

Mixture 66, 67 

Hoi Water 64 

Machine .Mail.- 64 

Plain <;:: 

Small 117 

Victory 6. r > 

Water 64 

l hrop Cakes '.'i 

Snonge Layer I lake 97 

Sponge Roll 57, '.'7 

Springerle 167 

Spritzkuchen 107 

Squash Pies 262 

Standard Box Cake Mixtures. 32 

Standard < !hristmas I !a 

Standard Fruit Pudding ... 269 

Standard Fruit Slabs 

Standard Formulas, Ice < >« am 

273, 274 

Standard Lemon Water [ce... '277 
Standard Spice- Mixtur !, •■ 

Cakes 169 

Standard Sweet Doughs 198 

St. Honorc Tart 107, L20 

Sticks, Cinnamon 166 

Stock Doughs, Coffeecake.199, 209 

Honey 109 

Stock Icings 233 

Stollen 205, 207, 217 

Almond 208 

Best Grade 208 

German 207 

How to Make 208 

Plain Sweet Dough 209 

Storks Nests 225 

Strawberry Ice 277 

Strawberry Meringue Pie .... 267 

Strawberry Meringue Tart... 196 

Strawberry and Pineapple Pie 261 

Strawberry Shortcake 97 

Strawberry Tartletts 116 

Streusel 212 

Buns 214 

Coffeecake 216 

Strips, Almond 163, 182 

Champagne 162 



PAGf 
Fancy L83 

Macaroon 184 

Sugar-Boiling Degrees 281 

Sugar Cookies 153, 17.". 

Sugar Honey 170 

SugarleSS Cookies t Coin 

Syrup) 17!" 

Sugarless Icing 179 

Sugars and Syrups 13 

Suggestions, General 1 1 

Sultana Buns 213, 231 

Sultana Genoa Cake .">."» 

Sultana Poundcake 38 

Sultana Scones 227. 228, 229 

Sunshine Cakes 66 

Swedish Pastries 202 

Swedish Pastry Dough 202 

Swedish Rolls 206 

Swedish Rolled Wafers, Con., 163 

Swedish Cream Tarts 204 

Sweet Doughs, Standard .... 188 
Swiss Chocolate Sacher Mix- 
ture 71 

Swiss Honey Cake 170 

Swiss Roll 57 

Squares 20^ 

S3 nip ( lookies 179 

Syrup Crumb Cookies 175 

Syrups IS, 27::, 281 

Talmouses 129 

Tapioca Pie Filler 257 

Tarts and Tartletts 116 

American Mixtures 71 

Apple 116 

Apple 1 Iream 116 

Ascot 122 

Congress Fillings 11!) 

Finishing 73 

Lemon Cream 123 

Cases 113, 196 

Cheese 117, 118 

Macaroon 77 

Mixtures 67 

Nut Mix for 70, 77 

Open Fruit 118 

Pastes 107, 111 

Poppy Seed 121 

Queen 74 

Richelieu 123 

Short Paste for Ill 

Small Ill 

Special Mixtures 67 

Swedish Tarts 204 

Tin and Forms 74 

Tumble 122 

Vienna Mixtures 68, 69 

Tartlet, Alexandra Cheese 117, 118 

Carnival 117 

Strawberry 116 



Tart Paste for Borders 107 

Tea Biscuits, Baking Powder. 227 

Yeast-raised 227 

Tea Cookies 158 

Tea Scone 229 

Temperatures, Baking 20 

of Materials 299 

Timbales, or Fried Cases 224 

Torten 74, 217 

a la Conde 75 

Alliance 78 

Almond 76 

Chocolate 77 

Dresden 74 

Duchess 74 

Large Filled 205 

Lemon Cream 76 

Macaroon 76, 77 

Marguerite 75 

Meringue 77 

Metropolitan 75 

Mocha 75 

Nut 77 

Nut Cake Mixture 70 

Orange Cream 76 

Parisienne 75 

Oueen 74 

Sand 69 

Special Orange 76 

Tragacanth Paste 1 09 

Tumble Tarts 122 

Turk's Heads 207 

Turnovers 125, 204 

Tutti Frutti Cake 82, 95 

Tutti Frutti Ice Cream 275 

Twisted Cream Rolls 215 

Twisted Rings 217 

Twists, Scrolls and Snails 203 

Universal Cookie Mixture .... 153 

Vanilla Cream Drops 165 

Vanilla Cup Cake 90 

Vanilla Jumbles 161 

Vanilla Cream Souffles 165 

Vanilla Wafers, White 162 

Variation in Flours 11 

Victoria Tart 120 

Victory Sponge Cake 65 

Vienna Butter Cream 248 

Vienna Butter Sponge 64 

Vienna Fried Cakes 223 

Vienna Tart Mixture 68, 69 

Vienna Zwieback 215 

Wafers 160 

Almond 163 

Champagne 162 

Cream 1 64 

Dietetic Bran 164 

Honey 164 



PAGE 

Ice Cream Sandwich 164 

Lemon 163 

Rolled 163, 165 

Swedish Rolled 163 

Walnut 163 

White Vanilla 1 62 

Wafer Jumbles 162 

Wafer Paper for Baking 182 

Waffles. Fried Spring 224 

Walnut Block, English 34, 84 

Walnut Cakes 34, 39, 86, 89 

Walnut Wafers 163 

Washington Cake 95 

Washington Cream Pie 267 

Washington Crumb Cake or 

Pie 99 

Washington Pie, Martha 267 

Water Icing 236 

Water Sponge Cake 64 

Wedding Cakes 40, 287, 288 

Whipped Cream Filling 251 

With Marshmallow 252 

White Box Cake 27 

White Bride's Cake 42 

White Cake 28 

White Drops 165 

White Duchess Cake 83 

White Florence Cake 82 

White Fruit 43 

White Fruit Slab Cake 31 

White Layer 30 

White Lebkuchen 172 

White Laver Cakes 30 

White Loaf (with Cornstarch) 29 

White Mountain Cake 29 

White Poundcake 44 

White Stock Icing 235 

White Vanilla Wafers 162 

Wine Cake Mixtures 96, 97 

Yeast-Raised Doughs and Pas- 
try 197 

Fillings for 203, 210 

Yeast-Raised Doughnuts. .220, 223 

Jelly Balls 223 

Pastry 197 

Yeast-Raised Tea Cakes or 

Biscuits 227 

Yellow Bowl Mixture 58 

Yellow Box Cakes 32 

Yellow Drop Cakes lbu 

Yellow Florence Cake 82 

Yellow Layer Cake 97 

Yellow Slab Cake y/ 

Zwieback Doughs 209, 215 

Zwieback, Almond 216 

Anise 216 

Hamburg 215 

Hungarian 216 

Pressburg 216 

Vienna 215 



